Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems



  • Ive got a 92 ranger that is loading up bad when the check engine lite comes on? the ecm tells the injectors to stay on. I've checked it over and over with a scaner. got nothing, any ideas
  • My 04' Ford Ranger suddenly sputtered then stalled on my way home from work and wouldn't start again, it was like it ran out of gas. So I replaced the fuel filter. It started right up and ran for about 15 minutes then died again and wouldn't start. The next morning it did the same thing started fine, ran for 10-15 minutes then died and wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel line and it had very low pressure so I replaced the fuel filter. Now it won't start at all and I'm not getting a spark from the spark plugs. I've changed the coil pack, reset and then bypassed the fuel pump shut-off switch, checked the ignition switch fuse, the fuel pump relay, starter fuse and relay, and every other applicable fuse/relay. I'm now stumped and do not know what the problem could be.
  • Sounds like you need a new/rebuilt brain box. Take the box in and have it checked out. My guess is that it's dead and thats why you don't get any spark at the plugs.
  • We got my 91 ford ranger about a year ago, and for a few months it has on and off had an issue with sputtering and stalling when we first start it. You will hear the engine working very hard and it will shake the truck and then boom, truck turns off. First time it happened it was right after we had the first full tank of gas in a looong time, had been running it until it died from no gas(we are broke), so we replaced the fuel pump hoping we had just clogged it. It didnt happen for awhile after that but then the last month it started happening again.

    Keep in mind, it will do it once, and then we will restart it, and its fine,like it never happened.

    Well, my fiance was driving it to work this morning on the freeway and it did the same thing twice. only difference, it was while he was already driving. It took him awhile, but he got it to start and got it back home.Had to call into work. This is his work truck so we are really worried about fixing this or he doesnt have a job any more.

    No money to get it diagnosed. Any ideas??
  • Engine will start and run for about 10 -20 minutes, then stalls. I will not re start but if I wait a couple of hours, it will re start without a problem. While engine is running, it runs good with no missing. Have changed the coil packs, plug wires and plugs, ICM, fuel filter, fuel pump(what a pain) fuel pump relay, ignition relay. . Is there a second fuel pump for this engine? Other than the ECU(computer) is there any other parts or sensors that have a history of failing after they heat up. My next step my be to buy a new computer but I hate to spend big bucks if others had this problem and found the fix.
  • rklinerkline Posts: 1
    It has been a while since youve posted this, but if you are still having the problem timming may be your issue.
  • 86 Ranger 2.3 - Gas will not keep engine running.

    Hello fellow ford rangers out there..... we go again. I'm still having issues, but it's intermittent. Last year I got the relays or something wet that prevented the car from starting, then I thought it all dried out, but had to replace a few things.
    1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed

    So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.

    When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........

    The problem now?
    Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.

    It would be so pleasant if I could get close to pinpointing this cause, instead of playing the expensive process of elimination game. I DO realize what a long shot that would be, for someone to just tell me, "Hey, dude, check your ##$@&&, that's definitely your problem!", but life seems never to be easy.

    Has been replaced within the last few months:
    Fuel filter regulator,
    Inline fuel filter,
    Cap and rotor,
    Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
    ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
    Idle Air Control Valve - Removed and Cleaned.
    Checked all vacuum hoses.

    Has not been replaced:
    Map Sensor,
    EGR Valve and sensor,
    Throttle Position Sensor,
    EVP sensor,
    Spark plugs, (two years ago)
    Plug wires, (two years ago)
    Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)

    So, I can sure use some help from anyone who experienced these symptoms, and what did you do to correct the problem?

    With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic. Thank you for any help! :-)
  • Hello bozo4ford,

    One thing you can check is your fuel shutoff switch, usually located at the top of your carpeting on the passenger side floorboard. Check to see if the switch is bad or if you have a melted wire harness leading to the switch. I have had similar issues ( not exact) and i found a melted wire harness at the base of this switch. $75 at a local junkyard and the problem was fixed. Its worth a look, hope this helps.
  • Thanks!

    I did tap and clicked on the Inertia or Rollover swith on the passenger's floor. This could be anything.

    Well, after a week of painful neck and shoulder pain, (Doc said it was osteoarthritis, that and sleeping on pillow wrong) I'm finally back on computer. Did not have time to do anything with my truck. I'm still in a little pain, but I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of my truck not running. it cranks, but does not turn over.

    Some one told me over the weekend NEVER use fuel injection cleaner in this old 26 year old truck, because he sez, it can muster up all the contaminates and clog places where the fuel could not get to the injectors. it was LUCAS DEEP CLEAN Fuel System cleaner. I added this to a full tank of gas back in February, so this may or may not have anything to do with my problem.

    The mechanic told me he found metal shavings in the inline fuel filter, he told me that the pump might be breaking down after 26 years. So I think I'll have him replace the pump. I am not a mechanic, nor do I have any test gauges, etc., so I am at the ''honest'' mechanics mercy.
  • My 1993 Ranger (4.0L V6) was stalling when hard breaking (60 Km to 0 Kms) restart no probs. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor and Air Bypass Valve Sensor and cleaned Throttle body with no correction to problem ... today replaced Fuel Filter (cheap comparably to other replaced parts) seems to have corrected problem, will still hesitate but does not stall. Perhaps if same issues try Fuel Filter first.
  • My 94 ranger just went over 200,000. Now, I only drive it about 300 miles a month.

    Had a problem a couple of weeks ago where it sputtered wouldn't accelerate or die. Mechanic replaced Ignition Module.

    Ran great for about 7 miles and then it died, while I was driving.

    Now, driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out but it does not have any problem of starting up and driving on.

    It happens every 5 to 20 miles, as I've tracked it for about 150 miles and it's happened 10 times.

    Mechanic is at a loss. he did switch out the Ignition Module to make sure that wasn't the problem.

    He's suggesting the most reasonable problem is probably the Crank Sensor. The issue is that it's not easy to get to. So having already spent $400, I'm looking at at least another $400 to try something that might or might not be the problem.

    Any suggestions?

  • I know this is three years old but I'm having the EXACT problem, which is unique to ALL the other problems posted here.

    "driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out. restart with no problem and then continue for another 5 to 20 miles before it happens again"

    I'm curious from rick2343 if the Crank Sensor fixed his problem.

    Also curious what CAD NORTHSTAR is as that's what insanetang suggested.
  • I know this might sound strange, but my son's 94' had the same problem. We were getting a bunch of codes, most having to do with the EGR system, but once those were cleared, it was still having the same kind of problems you were having. We changed all the normal things, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter ,plugs but nothing seem to improve it. We found that it was the ignition module, but after installing a new one, it would die sort of like the problem you are having. After many hours( days ) of trial and error, I found that for some reason the ignition module did not like being mounted and bolted down in it's original position. It has to be grounded to work, so I just attached a ground wire using a nut and bolt in one of the mounting holes in the module and used cable ties to sort to position the module up and out of the way. For some reason this worked. The trucks been running great the last 6 months. The only thing I can figure is that one of the two cable assy. going to the ignition module has either a short or and open that is corrected by having the cables in a different position. Hope this info helps, cause I went through hell chasing this problem and nothing seemed to make sense. I'm pretty sure if you have a problem with the crank sensor that it would not start at all. Good Luck
  • bozo4fordbozo4ford Posts: 7
    edited December 2012
    Well, let me tell you about my 1986 Ranger. I had similar problems, but I ended up cleaning the AIC, replacing in-line fuel Filter, fuel pressure regulator, new Fuel and computer relays, and a new TFI Control module. Plugs and wires, cap, and rotor, etc. Another problem was my Ignition Starter switch broke inside the steering column and that made a lot of difference to me...anyway.

    I was the original owner of this truck...until someone clipped from my drivers side rear, threw into a Pit maneuver, and a 180 spin, just 'totaled' my truck about two weeks ago. I almost replaced my Pass side interior kick wall computer, but thankfully, did not before this happened, and saved 100.00. It was not the problem anyway.

    Now for a 86' ranger, the wreck yard offered me $350.00, and Loss of vehicle close to $2400.00, so for a 26 year old 'wrecked" truck, I should count my blessings! Now the task of trying to find a replacement truck, and hopefully, not inheriting other people problems. Good luck to you. I know it seems daunting having to play the process of elimination game, but sadly, that's what you might have to do. reading codes helps the process.
  • Your over thinking this, do u have a vacuum gauge? Hook it up to egr and watch it, if you don't press the diagram in/up with your finger and see if it dies. Iac is a good guess but don't buy a new one just take yours off and clean it with carb cleaner. Does your truck have the egr that tuns through the throttle body....I would use carb cleaner and a toothbrush and clean the body plate. Last when it it dying spay some carb cleaner in a vacuum port at intake and other end blocked off and see if that helps, then u know its an air fuel problem. Also obd1 codes will disappear but if your quick u can catch them. Then write them down and disconnect batt for ten min to clear and see if they come back. Hope this helped
  • I hate when people don't come back on and say what fixes or doesn't fix a problem or ....

    I'm still having problems with my 94 Ranger. It still dies but it could be 2 miles or 100 miles. Can't replicate the problem.

    When it stalls, (as the truck is moving - it's a stick) I put in the clutch, put it in nuetral, turn it off, restart, put it in gear and let the clutch off. Takes about 10 seconds and I typically don't lose any speed.

    It's been 6 months and I still don't feel like I have a handle on it enough to have my mechanic do anything. (I've only driving 1,800 miles in that time)

    He wanted to replace the main sensor (?) would would have been $400+ I really don't think that's the issue.

    I still believe it's connected to the Ignition Module some how and it could be the grounding.

    It doesn't happen when it's idealing and can't be recreated by the mechanic.

    I don't want to jinx it but I've driven for a week and it hasn't stalled. Maybe it's fixed (probably not)

    Anyone with any more thoughts?
  • I am having the same issue. I'm driving a 95 tho. I was also told it might be the sensor. I am taking into a shop Monday to have it looked at. Thank goodness I know the dude, so if he can fix it, he allows me to make payments. So, I'll let you know if the sensor thing worked, or whatever worked if he can fix it.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The fuel pump relay might be causing this problem. The relay can be bad, and sometimes the relay connectors needs to be cleaned up where it plugs into the fuse box. Many times there are a couple of relays in there that are the same and you could just switch the relays. But clean up the connectors in any case. The relay are in the fuse box under the hood.

    There is also a fuel cutoff switch. This switch cuts off the fuel pump if the truck rolls over. This switch is under the carpet, just to the right of the 'tunnel', at the top of the carpet, in the passenger footwell. There is a button on the top to reset it. It probably does not need to be reset, because if it was tripped the truck would not start. But the connectors on this switch might also be loose. Check it.

    And, the fuel pump might be weak, and not putting out enough pressure to really power the injectors. Or the fuel filter might be somewhat clogged and needs to be replaced. It is on the frame, under the drivers door. If you pull the lines on this thing, fuel will leak out. Use a pencil to push into the fuel line to block it off. Do not work on fuel stuff inside a garage, gasoline loves to explode.
  • Worked on my son's 94 ranger that had the same problem. It took me forever to find the problem. Knew it was something to do with the ignition module, but all the modules we tried tested good out of the truck. What finally fixed the problem was not mounting the ignition module in it's original location. I used cable ties to mount it in a different location and ran a ground wire from the module to a good ground. The only thing I can figure is that somewhere in cables there is an open and by the cables being routed different, the open closed and the problem went away. It's been over a year now and it only stalled once, I just had to re-adjust ( tighten) the cable ties, still running good.
Sign In or Register to comment.