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Ford Ranger Climate Control

bedinottibedinotti Posts: 2
edited July 2 in Ford
I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 truck with a no heat problem - I understand the Mazda is identical to the Ranger.
The trouble appears to be the radiator hot water does not flow through the heater core which is located in the cab directly behind the glove box.
When I’m driving the temp gauge shows normal – indicating that the thermostat is working ok.
Last year when I also had no heat I removed the dash board and replaced the blender actuator.
I verified the actuator is working by placing an L shaped Allen wrench into the slot located on the top right of the unit and when I changed the heater control from blue to red I could see the Allen wrench swing back and forth.
I disconnected the heater core input and return hoses located on the truck exterior fire wall then ran a low pressure hose - the water ran freely through the core indicating no blockage.
When I change the heater control knob towards blue I can feel the air get cooler and less cool (not warm) when the knob is moved when I turn the knob to the red area – so I’m assuming that is all working ok.
In tracing the water flow from the radiator to the heater core, I found that the radiator top hose feeds a connector that has an electrical connector on top (see below). Not sure if the electrical connector is for the instrument panel or if this is some sort of switch to allow the heated water to flow to the heater core. The water then continues out of the left side of the connector to another connector unit where 2 hoses go to/from the heater coil and 1 goes to the bottom hose of the radiator.
I guess my question is do you agree that I have a water flow problem and what could prevent the water from flowing to the heater core?
Greatly appreciate any suggestions, thoughts or recommendations.
Can anyone please tell me how the how water flows through the system once the thermostat opens.

Comments

  • i have an 85 ford ranger 2.3L, 14,000 miles on new engine, heat was working fine, one day just went to blowing cold, replaced thermostat, water pump, re routed heater core hoses, installed manual temp gauge, truck takes about 30 minutes to for thermostat to open, idiling 190 degrees, driving down road 170 degrees, heater core hoses read 117 degrees at core, 180 degrees all other hoses and heater hoses about half way to heater core. don't know what else to try. can someone help???
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Clogged heater core? Pull both heater hoses and put a garden hose on one side. If it doesn't flow out the other side, replace the heater core. That should be simple, it comes out from the inside under a cover, easily.

    Be careful, a garden hose has 30pounds pressure or more, the truck system is set to 15 max then it comes out past the cap. Don't blow up a heater core with too much pressure.

    Does the truck have a cut-off valve on one of the heater hoses? Is this working?
  • i don't have a heater control valve, my heater core hoses run from the water pump to the heater core, and from the thermostat housing to the heater core nothing in between.
  • drosnickdrosnick Posts: 1
    The A/C on my 2005 4 cyl., auto, Ranger runs when the selector knob is in the dash vent/ underdash position and also when in the windshield/down position. What's wrong here?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I may have the answer, or may not because I'm not sure I understand your question.

    Ranger AC switches are strange, it that they are a 'push in' to turn on, and 'push in again' to turn off. It doen't indicate this much at all on the controls. The switch twists to control the air output - max, dash, vent, defrost, etc, but you have to push this switch to turn it on or off.

    Don't feel bad, the first Ranger I test drove I returned and told the deal the AC didn't work. The salesman leaned in, pushed the knob, and said 'Yes it does'.
  • Just quit. Checked and found that when turned on clutch on compressor engages and turns 2-3 times, then releases. After a few seconds cycle repeats. Is there some over/under pressure switch that causes the clutch to release? Any ideas about problem appreciated. Really don't need to go to a repair shop and have parts replaced until they get lucky. It's to close to Christmas.

    Regards,
    Norm
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Low on freon charge acts like this. And, yes, a high-pressure switch turns it off.

    Find the leak and recharge. Or, just throw a can into it and see if this fixes it.
  • Thanks for the response. Merry Christmas to you and your's!
  • 2000 Ranger XLT with 3.0 V6 and the fan blower only works on high. What causes that and what can I do to fix it?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The fan is only 1 speed. Slower speeds are obtained via a 'resister pack' that reduces the voltage to the fan to get lower speeds. This resister pack is burned up, so the lower speeds do not work. The highest speed does not use the resister pack, so it still works.
    The resister pack is on the top of the fan housing, under the hood, on the passenger side.
  • Thanks for the response I had an idea that that was the problem. I just needed confirmation. I'll let you know how it goes.
  • wyatt3wyatt3 Posts: 2
    i just bought a 2000 ranger xlt 3.0 v-6 the engine doesnt get very warm so neither does the heater. put new o.e.m thermostat in didnt help.
  • carolinabobcarolinabob Posts: 537
    Same problem on a 97 Ranger. The switch does not push it, just turns and has always worked that way. I can turn the system off, but any other setting turns the AC compressor on. 85,000 miles and just started doing this a couple of weeks ago.
    Anybody have any ideas?

    Thanks
  • i_b_vapori_b_vapor Posts: 2
    My '95 Ranger blows air only on the windshield no matter what position I select on the control head. Also, switching from A/C to Max shows no change in fan speed whereas it did before. A/C still works. I've looked at the vacuum lines I'm aware of under the hood and inside the truck and see none that are broken or damaged in any way.
    I notice that when I turn the heat knob I do get heat and I can hear a motor of some kind and what I think is one of the doors move if that makes sense.
    Anyone else have this problem or any suggestions on approach to find the cause?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Rangers of about this age have real problems with breaking a shaft in the air valve controls. It's a real tough problem to fix this. If the shaft breaks, the valve will not move. I think it might even require removal of the dash. And the valve costs quite a bit to replace because I think the whole housing has to be replaced.
  • In the last two weeks I am getting a small vibration. This happens in drive stopped with the brake on.
    It seems to happen when the air compressor kicks on. Is this a sign of a bearing or the whole air compressor unit going.
    Any other things I need to look at?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, if the vibration can only be felt with the compressor engaged, then yes it's probably a compressor bearing problem.

    keep driving it until it get worse. Don't drive it until it get really worse or it could freeze up, etc. But if you are only feeling a pulse at idle, the compressor might last for quite a while like this.
  • I've got something similar happening. 95 Ranger 4x4. Air goes only through the defroster vents (to the windshield) Temp control has no effect, air is always HOT, nothing on the selector switch works except "off" which turns the fan off. (truck has AC but the switch does not activate it) Fan speed control still works, ie when it's "on" I can control it's speed.

    To say it in a different way........ the temperature dial has no effect, it's stuck on HOT,
    the mode selector switch provides an "off" only, no choice of where the air goes, always goes to the defroster. The fan speed selector still functions.

    Seems to be something in the vacuum control. Any ideas of where to look?
  • I found the fix for my problem and maybe it will help with some of your problem. I talked with the service manager at the local Ford garage and he gave me some idea what to look at. I have a 4 cyl 2.3 Liter engine. Looking at the engine with the hood raised there's a pair of vacuum lines that run from a connection on the right rear of the engine toward the top, across the back of the engine and then toward the left front of the engine just under what I always use to call the distributor. They are enclosed in a protective sheath that is split along it's length. I looked at the plastic vacuum lines in the sheath and examined them carefully and found one that had a hole burned in it just at the place where the lines cross the back of the engine. I repaired the burned line and the system began to work again. Hope this helps you.
  • Thanks,
    I've got a 6 cylinder engine but I'm sure the vacuum systems are similar. I will check vacuum lines in the engine compartment.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't know the symptoms, but a known problem with mid to late 90's Rangers Heat/AC systems - a plastic (isn't everything) shaft in the 'air box' inside breaks. This shaft controls one of the main air switching 'doors' in there. To get to it, extensive teardown is required, including pulling the dash. Then, the entire air box must be replaced.

    There used to be some postings about some some patch jobs that could be tried. You might try to find other Ranger forums and look for this problem and associated solutions.
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