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Volvo S70 Maintenance and Repair

Hi, my emission light has been on steady for approx 6 months now. The code that I have is PO455 (large evaporative emission leak). Replace gas cap with a new Volvo one but no luck, car runs great (5cyl. naturally aspirated w/ 128,000 miles).
Any help would be great!

Thanks Nelson
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Comments

  • Hi everyone,
    I bought a 98' S70 T5 Volvo a little over a year ago. Loved it madly. Put 20K on it since and had no major problems. Recently, when it got colder (just around freezing t)I noticed a white creamy stuff building up in the oil dip stick tube which I thought could be just a moisture condensation from the air. I did not see anything in the oil when changing it.I never saw anything like that on the oil cap (which is a bad sign) so I did not bother until today when I noticed some white
    cream on the oil cap too. I guess my cylinder head gasket is leaking. Does anybody know how frequent those problems are in Turbo S70s and
    how much would it cost to replace the gasket?
    Any useful advices in this regard? Why would the gasket go bad? Could it be that the engine head is cracked if the engine got overheated in the past (I would not know the history). Is there a way to tell before opening up? Compression test etc? Importantly if I do replace it would I be able to drive this car for years or it will go bad again soon? I had this bad experience with Audi 5000S ('83)in the past so I am scared...
    Many thanks, folks.
  • I also noticed a similar problem tonight on my 98' S70 Volvo. I bought it used a little over a year and a half ago and have put 10k miles on it. It only has 64k miles total. The coolant light has been coming on when turning sharp corners. I first checked my oil level and noticed a foam build up on the entire length of the dip stick. I didn't notice anything on the oil cap. When I checked the coolant reservoir, it was about 1/3 full, but brownish in color - not a good sign. I plan to have my mechanic look at it ASAP. I'm also interested in any other experiences people have had and what it took to fix this. Thanks.
  • We have 150,000 miles on our S70 and nothing of the sort. Heck, our motor oil still looks golden at the oil changes. We do have the naturally-aspirated motor, though, no turbo to ramp up the internal pressures of the motor.
  • wyoming3wyoming3 Posts: 2
    I ended up having a mechanic look at my S70 to determine if there was a head gasket problem and he said there wasn't. He ran several block tests, at both hot and cold conditions, and said the head gasket looked good. The foam on the dip stick is something he has seen before on S70's in the Northwest with the extra moisture up here. I forgot to ask him about a possible cause of the brownish looking coolant, but he did flush it. I will keep an eye on it. The car is running fine.
  • jonny01jonny01 Posts: 3
    My A/C is blowing hot air, I do hear the clutch engage for 2 seconds and then it turns off. I'am thinking it just needs a re-charge since I havent had one in 105k miles. The dealer is very expensive for just about everyhting. Can I do it my self with a A/C kit you can buy from Kragen or Pep Boys?
  • My 2000 S70 recently has been displaying the red brake warning light(sporadically) and the speedometer will drop off to zero while driving.
    Someone mentioned a sensor in the rear section. Is this easy to locate? Is it easy to change?
    Another thing....when the brake light is on and I am accelerating from start, the car acts sluggish -almost like the brakes are engaged and preventing normal acceleration. Any ideas?
  • Erase the code with a obd II that you can borrow from autozone for free.Hope this helps.

    Good luck,

    Ron
  • Hi Ron,

    Thanks for your input, however I did erase the code (after I installed the new dealer gas cap) already, and it came back again. Anymore suggestions?

    Thanks Nelson
  • Have you been able to fix your problem?

    I have a 1999 S70 and my brake light, and up arrow light come on and I have all the same problems you have described - the speedometer drops to zero, the computer only has dashes and the acceleration changes - sometimes it's much worse that others. Mine now happens all day long

    The dealership connected it tot he computer and said I needed some patch and it fixed it for about 2 hours, but it has come back. The dealership thinks it might be the ABS sensor which is a $1200 part. I honestly have not gone back.

    any ideas?
  • i bought a head gasket set for my 2000 volvo s70 glt. i took it all down. but i notice that everything in the gasket kit. was the same. but the head gasket was a lil diffrent. but it fit. i put everyting back together and i have no compression and it want start just spins over and it sounds like its not in time please help.
  • I'm, unfortunately, doing the same job right now. I assume they asked you for the specific motor size (2.3 or 2.4 ltr) and turbo vs non, when they sold you the set. I assume you torqued all head bolts in the correct sequence and to the proper value. And that you didn't reuse the old head bolts. This engine calls for 'torque to yield' spec's on the head bolts, so they are ruined for reuse. Did you replace the timing belt when you had the head off? whether you did or didn't, did you make marks on the two cam gears and crank gear to assure identical positioning when reassembling timing belt (new or old) as when you removed the components? (if you didn't correctly position timing belt on reassembly then your valve operation will not be coordinated properly with your piston movement or ignition spark - so your car will crank with no results [except you may smell unburned gas coming out of the exhaust pipe.] AND you may end up seriously damaging the valves and/or pistons when cranking the engine if this engine has zero clearances between the valves and pistons at TDC [top dead center]) good luck
  • I have a 1998 volvo s70 with check engine light on system lean - downstream o2 sensor had 0.00 for reading- changed o2 sensor cleared codes, car goes into closed loop but still not 02 reading from second sensor- no other codes are present

    have checked wiring to o2 sensor up to connector on transmission - all ok ...visually inspected wiring to computer - does not appear to be any damage

    and ideas??

    thanks !!
  • jonesey1jonesey1 Posts: 1
    I have white smoke coming out of my exhaust, I just bought the car and it has
    100000 miles it is still within the 30 days could this be the head gasket?
  • I had the same problem and I changed the fuel cap and the 3 bleed sensors. One of them was a pain to cange because it is under the gaz tank. Guess what? I still have the same problem. If you fix it tell me what did you do?

    Michel
  • n33498n33498 Posts: 2
    1998 S70 Turbo. 81,000 miles

    New battery last week from Advanced Auto Parts. Last one purchased three years ago.

    Car wouldn't start this morning (lights went on but needed jump). I drove back to AAP and they switched out the battery for another new one but noticed a mild spark when reinstalling it. He questioned if there might be short that is draining the battery.

    The car did hesitate a tiny bit when turning on this past week. Symptom of battery or alternator or electrical?
  • gdatlgdatl Posts: 1
    Most likely cause of problem is a bad ABS control module. I have two 2000 S70 GLT/SEs and both have experienced this problem after 100,000 miles. Dealer repair can be $700-1000. New Volvo part alone is $450-900.

    If this is the problem, bypass the dealer and do the repair yourself for about $100. Rebuilt ABS modules are available for much less, and they are usually rebuilt better than the new units (new units have NOT been changed and they will still break down!)

    Check out more info at these websites:

    http://volvospeed.com/Repair/abstrax.php
    http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/

    Vic Rocha (second site above) will rebuild your ABS brake module for $125 with a 5-year waranty, but you have to remove the unit, ship it to him and install the rebuilt part. It is not that difficult - my 17 year old son did it in about an hour. (It is possible, although not recommended, to drive the car while the ABS control module is off the car. See the websites above for more info.

    You can also order remanufactured units from several places such as:

    http://www.modulemaster.com ($110 + shipping / 5 year warranty)
    http://www.bba-reman.com ($99 + shipping / limited lifetime warranty).

    Both usually have rebuilt units available and can ship it out same or next day. You must return your faulty unit to them, since they will remanufacture it for resale. I have experience with BBA-reman and totally satisfied, but have talked to ModuleMaster and beleive that they are also OK. (I only chose BBA-reman because they were closer, so I was able to receive the unit faster with lower shipping costs!)

    Note that Volvo used several different ABS modules, even on the same make and model car, so you will need to get the part numbers off of the unit on your car in order to make certain that you are ordering the right part. I used a mirror and flashlight and read it (backwards!) before I removed the unit.

    Find a Torx E-5 socket to do the removal. They are hard to find, but using a 4mm socket (which is close to the same size) risks damage to the bolt head.
  • hi,

    My husband has just taken apart the head, replaced 12 intake valves, replaced all 24 seals, had the cylinders machined, and put everything back together. He lined everything up, tried to start it, and nothing. There is no complression, but befiore thsi goes in for the really pricey mechanigc job I am expecting, is there anything else he can try?
  • Wow, thank you so much for this helpful information! I know very little about cars coupled with the fact that I'm a woman, I always feel like I'm getting ripped off at the body shops. Actually, I KNOW I am! My 1999 S70 has the exact issues that are described above, blinking arrow light, check engine light, ABS light, Brake light all come on at various times. I took my car in to a Swedish Auto specialist in Venice, CA and after $700 he told me the problem was fixed and the sensor just needed to be reset. Well, that lasted for about 2 months and now its back on! My brakes feel sluggish at times almost like driving with the parking brake on and the speedometer remains at 0 and the computer just has dashes. Anyway, I hope replacing the ABS module will work and the car will run smoothly again. Just wanted to say thanks for your very thorough and helpful post!
  • tokotoko Posts: 1
    To everyone who has a turbo model - if the oil is whyte and creamy and there not whyte smog - it's means that a Secondary Air Pump is gone or full with water. I hope it's not too late.....
    toko
  • ka_1ka_1 Posts: 1
    my volvo has check eng light and the code is 1507 1505 what tha problem
  • I have a 3year long problem. I drive my cx70 for an hour or longer come back and get only a clicking sound. Power windows , lights, radio all work. Come back to vehicle 2-3hrs later it starts right up. volvo dealer is stumped. Volvo has replaced the starter and the aetenna ring in the ignition column. I have replaced the battery.
    Any ideas? the vehicle has 63,000miles.
  • Is it difficult to replace this part? 1998 model GLT

    thanks!
  • cotcocotco Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    i am having almost the same problem that the others have. speedometer drops to 0 and after while comes back on. i have a check engine light on, SRS light, ABS and BRAKE come on but after a while it goes out and i only see check engine, and SRS lights on, but when speed drops back to 0 and i see dashes instead of miles on the cluster, the BRAKE and ABS comes back on. I just give up. This car will empty my pocket if i wont find a cheaper solution. Can some one HELP!!
  • juice00juice00 Posts: 1
    ive got a 98 volvo s70 t5. my oil light came on and it started ticking in the head some.. the oil is full and no leaks.. i added some oil and the light went off and no ticking but came right back on.. is that the oil pump bad or a clogged sump tube? or what could it be?
  • i got my abs module fixed for $100 and now everything is working properly.

    If you are experiencing speedometer lose and SRS light, ABS and Brake light is on and also from time to time you experience the cruise control not to work and then come back to life, KNOW FOR SURE THAT IS YOUR ABS Module that's not working you have to fix it. HOW?

    ANSWER: go to www.modulemaster.com
    they will fix any kind of module for 100$.

    IT IS TRUSTED SITE. its not a scam, its just a good deal thats all.
    instead of paying $700-$1000 for a new module, you only pay $100 plus shipping both way. they will also tell you how to locate it and take it off.
  • mrolsonmrolson Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 S-70 and the driver side floor board is always wet am i correct in my thinking that it is the heater core leaking because Anti Freeze seems to be the only fluid I'm losing.
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