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2008 Mazda CX-9

13

Comments

  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    also...if' you dont already have another destination pre-loaded...you can "finger" point and add the new destination while you're still in motion... ( if that makes sense )... I did it the other day... because I'd heard consistantly (here) that you couldn't do that while in motion...
  • I bought Mazda CX9 GT 2008, and I have problem with alignment. It pulls me to left especially on highway. If I drive in first lane on high way, and drive 20/30 kph I can feel the pressure on the steering wheel that tires want to go towards left. If I drive on right most lane most of the time it goes straight, sometimes it goes to right side. In city road I feel much better because on city road the slope on the road is on right side.

    I talked to dealer they do the realignment but I have the same problem. They told me it might be for 20” tire. But I am not sure. It pulls me hard towards left when I drive on 1st (left most lane) lane or middle lane but it goes straight when I drive on right lane, it doesn’t pull me much to right side even if I am on right most lane.
  • Dealer is playing games with you, there is a recall on this and Mazda has send all dealer mechanic shop on how to repair this. I had actually the adobe PDF Mazda document on this but lost it. Found it with google. Is random, 2007 and 2008 still have this problem.
    Here is the text.
    TSB: 02-003/07

    2007 CX-9 - STEERING PULL / DRIFT

    APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS

    2007 CX-9

    DESCRIPTION

    Some customers may complain that the vehicle pulls to the left or right during normal driving conditions.

    Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

    REPAIR PROCEDURE

    1. Test drive vehicle and verify customer concern.
    2. Confirm pull/drift is not caused by the following factors:
    Road crown or wheel track during constant speed driving.

    Different size tires or uneven tire wear between left and right tires.

    Brake drag on any wheel.

    Excessive ball joint clearance or steering linkage play.

    3. Check tire pressure. Front and Rear Cold Tire Specification = 36 psi (18-inch tire), 34 psi (20-inch tire)
    If tire pressure is too low or too high, correct tire pressure as necessary and test drive vehicle again.

    If vehicle no longer pulls/drifts, return vehicle to customer and explain the importance of proper tire inflation to the customer.

    If vehicle pulls/drifts, go to next step.

    If tire pressure is correct, go to next step.

    4. Swap left and right front wheels/tires and check for damage or deformation of control arms, brackets, or bushings. If any item is damaged or deformed, repair as necessary. Test drive vehicle.
    If vehicle no longer pulls, return vehicle to customer or dealer inventory.

    If no improvement is noticed and vehicle still pulls or drifts, go to next step.

    5. Confirm position of left and right strut mounting rubber identification marks. Identification marks should be positioned as shown.
    Remove the left-side windshield wiper arm.

    Partially pull back the cowl grill.

    6. Check wheel alignment of the vehicle. Refer to ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATION CHARTS for 2WD or 4WD vehicle.
    7. Confirm the direction of vehicle pulling (left or right) and adjust camber and caster angles at the same time.
    8. Adjust the strut mounting rubber as follows:
    Remove the left-side windshield wiper arm.

    Partially pull back the cowl grill.

    Jack up front of vehicle and support on safety stands.

    Remove mounting rubber nuts.

    Push shock absorber and coil spring assembly downward, and turn identification mark to desired position.

    Adjustment Value From Original Position

    Identification Mark Position

    Camber Angle

    Caster Angle

    A



    -0° 22'

    B

    +0° 22'

    -0° 22'

    C

    +0° 22'



    NOTE:

    If the vehicle pulls right, rotate the left side strut mounting rubber 180 degrees so the position of the "identification mark" is inside the circle. (Position B)

    If the vehicle pulls left, rotate the right side strut mounting rubber 180 degrees so the position of the "identification mark" is inside the circle. (Position B)

    After adjustment of mounting rubber, install components in reverse order of removal.

    Tighten mounting rubber nuts to specified torque.

    Tighten Torque: 34.1 - 46.2 ft.lb (46.1 - 62.7 N.m)

    9. Adjust front toe to center of the specification as much as possible. Confirm all the other wheel alignment items are within specification. Test drive vehicle to verify the repair.
    10. If the vehicle starts pulling/drifting to the other side, rotate the front strut mounting rubber back from Position B to C, by 90 degrees.
    11. Test drive and verify repair.
    ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATION CHARTS

    NOTE: To convert "minutes" to "degrees", divide by 60. Example: 27' divided by 60 = 0.45°
  • Found the document URL link, go to this link:

    http://www.coremazda.com/tsb/cx9/02-003-07-steering-pull-drift.pdf

    This is not the only version, there a other version and links to the pdf document in other forums.
  • YES - I hand wash my car and get frustrated with the amount of water that comes out. So, I've devised a plan. 1) Turn the mirror in or out, (whichever way it turns) that allows a hidden pocket to be reached and dried. 2) More imporantly, I take my small blower or shop vac (in blow mode) and blow out the mirror. A little extra work, but worth it to keep you car looking nice after being washed.

    I LOVE the car overall though. Everything a Lexus has - but better, for cheaper.
  • rocco9rocco9 Posts: 4
    I was wondering if this problem started from day one or developed with time? I have not noticed this problem with mine. I was aware of the problem but have not had any pulling issues - so far. My car was has a build date of Sept. 07'.
  • mpb2mpb2 Posts: 1
    I am considering an '07 Touring and I'm wondering how important the motor difference is (I assume there are no other differences) between the 07 and 08's. Does anyone have more information on the differences and if they are worth the extra money?
  • From what I understand the 3.5 is an all Ford motor. Which isn't terrible, however, the CX-9 was designed for the 3.7 that Mazda developed in Japan. The only reason the 3.5 was placed in the 07' CX-9's was because the car was finished before the motor was done being developed. This may affect the resale value of all the first year release vehicles. Some say you should never buy a first year release due to all the bugs that need time to be worked out. Besides who doesn't like having more power.
  • mdhuttonmdhutton Posts: 195
    I would imagine that at some point, Mazda would have incorporated the changes in the TSB addressing the pulling issue into the manufacturing process and eliminate the problem right from the start. Not sure what that point in time is though...
  • 16ue16ue Posts: 6
    I purchased a Trip Computer for the CX9 which gives me accurate, real-time gas mileage, and I can see how those who spend most of their time on city streets might be less than thrilled with their mileage.

    Can you tell me more about the trip computer that you have purchased? I would like to get one too as I missed having one on the CX-9.
  • nxs138nxs138 Posts: 481
    I wonder if a trip computer will be included in a future software update. The Australian CX-9s do have a trip computer that lists mpg, which makes me think that maybe the options is simply software driven. Why it would not be included in the US baffles me.

    Unless, of course, the trip computer is an entirely different chip that we don't have here, which Mazda might offer at a reasonably inflated price in the future.
  • Can you tell me more about the trip computer that you have purchased? I would like to get one too as I missed having one on the CX-9.

    It's called a ScanGauge II and you can read about it here;

    www.scangauge.com

    It can do all sorts of things but the menus take a little getting used to. It's small, easy to install (took me less than 10 minutes) and can provide some useful information about your gas mileage, engine performance, etc. You can also easily use it on more that 1 vehicle - it just takes a minute or two to communicate and 'learn' the new vehicle it is connected to.

    It plugs into the OBD II connector which is under the dash, just to the side of the steering column. Plug it in, and it's ready to program....and by program, I mean, tell it which 'units of measurement' you are using, engine size, gas tank size, and fuel type. Quick and very simple. You can even change the background color to better match your dash lighting - something I keep forgetting to do.

    The computer gets its power from the same cable connection to the OBD connector, so there's nothing else to plug in. It comes with some Velcro for mounting it. I mounted mine centered on the front edge of my dashboard. It only blocks the odometer and tripmeter, which I can still see but I have to look over it.

    It can easily unplug and store somewhere if you're concerned about theft. I plan to have my wife sew a little black cover for it. I think if she can make something, it will become just about invisible with the dark background of the dashboard.

    It lists for $169.95 from the company's website, but I bought mine at Amazon for $159.95 with shipping. If you like 'gadgets' and have some extra money for a non-essential purchase, you'll probably enjoy having the computer.
    Hope that helps!
  • Okay, it might sound a little wacky, but I find myself adjusting the seatback nearly everyday. And I don't mean a little forward one day and a little back the next, I mean I have to always adjust the seatback to be in a slightly reclined position, so, I'm always adjusting back. It has to be moving forward by itself. There's no way I could be continually moving it in the same direction without is being in the completely reclined position by now - it's very odd.

    And No, there is nobody else who drives my car except my wife who has driven it maybe a total of 4 times, tops. And we have no kids that would be playing in the car.

    I'd be curious if anyone else is experiencing this same condition.
  • msuvetmsuvet Posts: 54
    Does the smart key remember seat position (that is, changes it to a saved one when you use it to unlock the car)?

    If so, maybe it has remembered a position that isn't the one you want to be using.

    There must be some way to reprogram it, if that is the case.
  • Does the smart key remember seat position (that is, changes it to a saved one when you use it to unlock the car)?

    I've got the 'dumb' key... ;) on my 'Sport' model.

    But thanks for the reply/thought, it just isn't the cause of this issue in my case.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I have the same issue. It's not every day, but periodically. I did notice that it's very easy to hit the buttons unintentionally when opening the fuel door, but I'm not sure that is it.
  • I have the same issue. It's not every day, but periodically. I did notice that it's very easy to hit the buttons unintentionally when opening the fuel door, but I'm not sure that is it.

    Hmmm...interesting, thanks!
    Because I typically fill-up nearly every day that I use the vehicle and always at the end of the day, I wonder if perhaps that is what is happening here. I'll have to be more aware of the seat before and after I fill-up.

    Speaking of the fuel fill release door.....boy, I don't know about the rest of you, but I can barely get my hand between the door and the seat to pop it. If I have a coat on, I have to open the door to get to it. I'd be more bothered by it if I lived in NJ, but 'self-serve' is about all you can find around New England/NY, so I have to open the door to get out anyway. Folks in NJ get their gas pumped for them, don't freeze their butts off in the cold, and pay less than I do! Yes, I'm jealous!!
  • hrabehrabe Posts: 3
    Recently when starting my CX-9 with remote start my climate control system does not turn on until turning the key from the lock position. It worked fine in the past. The idea is to warm up the cabin with remote start using the settings at where I left them when turning off the vehicle.

    The radio goes on, but the climate control is completely off. Any idea on what to do?
  • I'm having the same issue. Did you ever figure out how to fix this?
  • It just happened to me too. I started it with snow and ice on the windshield. I first noticed that the wipers were not working untill I turned the car on. Then my wife told me the climate control did not work. I thought it was a safety feature to keep the wiper blades from breaking.
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