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Toyota Camry Check Engine Light - Catalytic Converter



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Blue smoke on startup, is usually a result of worn valve seals. When the engine is off and sits, oil from up on top of the valves can leak past a worn seal, and collect in the cylinder. When you start the engine, if fills the cylinder w/gas-air mixture and starts to run, burning off the leaked oil.

    You can do a google search on worn valve seals, as well as get some estimates from folks over the phone what they'd charge to fix it.

    Just saved you $99, which you can put forward to getting the job done. Good luck.
  • I got the check engine light on my 2003 camry last night. Took it to the local repair shop and was told that my manifold cataytic converter is not functioning properly. The mechanic has informed me that I should change the convereter & the air fuel ratio sensor. The cost to replace it is $1014.00 & the cost to replace the air fuel sensor is $212.00. Do these prices make sense or should I be getting another quote?
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Posts: 140
    edited February 2010
    The catalaytic converter is welded to the exhaust pipe and then bolts to the engine. Removal involves removing the bolts at the engine, then cutting the pipe off at the exhaust. This bolted part of the convertor is placed on a bench, and cut again. This cut is made right at the front of the convertor. Now you get a new converter and weld it back on in the same exact way it was cut so the bolts will align back up. Place it on the car and weld it to the exhaust pipe.

    Converters differ in price from cheap aftermarket to dealer priced parts.
    I would search the many discussion on this part in this forum to make a decision on the price.. The Air Fuel Sensor labor should be included with the converter replace. It is bolted to the converter inlet and takes a whole two minutes to replace..About a $100.00 item at your local auto parts store.
  • I replaced the rear cat w an aftermarket and a few thousand miles later the ck eng lite came on. I was told by sum1 from toyota dealership that the aftermarket cat is less restrictive or the honeycomb has a different design causing the ck engine lite. I just noticed 2day an oil burning smell and i was approx 1 qt low in oil. I ck the level a few times to confirm. Any recommendations on the problem...I know of a sludge problem on these camry engines and recieved a letter from them. I'm jus trying 2 maintain this car as best as possible having 140k+.
  • My Camry's engine-check light was lit while I was driving to work today, and shortly after that, heat wave came out of the air conditioning chamber while the AC is turned off:

    What does this mean?

    It is a 2004 made Toyota Camry LE with 86k miles on it.

    Thanks in advance.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    What did your temperature gauge read? Did you check under the hood afterward to see how much coolant you have in the see-through reserve tank?

    Caution: Do not remove the radiator cap (on the radiator itself, not the reserve tank) until the engine is cold.
  • The temperature gauge stayed in the middle. No sign of overheating on the panel... The coolant level is between MAX and MIN...

    Having reviewed the Toyota Camry owner's manual, I realized that a loose fuel tank cap could also cause the light to go up (but it should go off after a few trips if there is nothing else going on).

    So I checked my car's fuel tank cap and found that it couldn't be securely tightened! That is, after I turned it clockwise and heard a click--supposedly the cap should have been tightened--the cap was still loose (i.e., it can be easily pulled off the nozzle, without turning it counterclockwise)... I guess this fuel tank cap is no longer usable and needs to be replaced...

    But... Why is heat coming out of the air conditioner chamber? Where does it come from? Is there a connection between the heat and the loose fuel tank cap? Is the heat or the loose fuel tank cap keeping the engine check light on? Or both?

    I guess I should stop guessing and get some help...
  • I found the Technical Service Bulletin It is EG024-04.

    M.I. L. "ON DTC P0420

    '02 - '04 Camry (2AZ-FE) (Non PZEV)

    Technical Service Bulletin July 1, 2004
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    edited March 2010
    Thanks, with your information, I found I have the TSB itself, which I originally obtained from the Bedford County Library (Indiana) online. (They have since removed these TSBs from public access.)

    TSB EG024-04, July 1, 2004

    M.I.L. “ON” DTC P0420 [Note: M.I.L. = Malfunction Indicator Lamp = Check engne light]
    ‘02 – ‘04 Camry (2AZ-FE) (Non PZEV)

    Some 2002 - 2004 model year Camry vehicles equipped with the 4 cylinder (2AZ--FE) engine may exhibit a M.I.L. “ON” condition with Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1) in the Engine Control Module (ECM) (SAE term: Powertrain Control Module/PCM). The ECM (PCM) logic has been modified and a redesigned catalyst has been provided.

    MODEL Camry (2AZ-FE)
    TMM Kentucky Line 1: 4T1BE3#K#4U323000
    TMM Kentucky Line 2: 4T1BE3#K#4U869000
    Tsutsumi Japan: JTDBE3#K#40283686

    The repair procedure in this TSB is similar to TSB No. EG013-04 “Excessive Sulfur Dioxide Odor.” The recalibration of the ECM (PCM) should only be performed ONCE.

    Recalibrate Engine ECM (PCM)
    R & R Catalytic Converter Assembly

    All 2002 - 2004 model year vehicles equipped with manual transmissions require replacement of the catalytic converter assembly only.

    Applicable Warranty*:
    This repair is covered under the Toyota Specified Major Emission Control Component Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 96 months or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date.

    * Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint.

    This isn't the complete TSB, but being in pdf form, I copied the most important portions for people to move forward with any complaints.

    Hope this helps!
  • vs2vs2 Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 Camry with 135,000 miles and I just had the catalytic converter placed by the Toyota dealership - not aftermarket. My car seems really sluggish now -- not much power at all. I turned on the a/c (1,500miles after the replacement of the cc) and I felt like I was driving a dump truck. Is this typical? Are there any symptoms I should look for? The rpms are normal -- just no power.. Any ideas???
  • mmoenmmoen Posts: 5
    I just had it done on a 2002 Camry 4 cyl over 150,000 miles and it is still as snappy as ever. Did they reprogram the ECM after the replacement? It must be done and then you have to retrain the computer to how you drive. It's a bummer my 2002 Camry has more power and speed than my 2008 Tacoma and better gas mileage, 30mpg. I wish they would have used the same engine in my 2008.
  • cogi320cogi320 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Toyota Camry (original owner) 116K miles. The engine light came on and stays on No mechanical problems. Took it to dealer, they say i need to have engine control module replaced; code P0607. Cost would be over $1,000. Does this really need to be replaced? Could I have it done cheaper somewhere else? I need my car for work, and certainly don't want to buy a new car at this time.
    Thank You.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    By all means, get a second opinion from an independent reputable shop. Ask for recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers.
  • scatheyscathey Posts: 1
    In the past 4 months, I had to have a rebuilt transmission. Then my check engine light came on shortly thereafter and I was told that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced of which I have not yet replaced. Yesterday, my car began to overheat around noon, replaced the coolant with water and the temperature gauge went back to normal for the rest of the day. However on my way home, my car abrubtly stopped and steam started pouring from my engine and I had to be towed to the auto mechanic. Again, I am being told the unimaginable...that I need to replace the engine now. I have taken pretty good care of my car and while it does have 140,000 miles I NEVER thought all this would occur in a matter of months. Any suggestions would be so appreciated! Thank you so much!!!
  • bg8bg8 Posts: 1
    Hi. Middleroad

    I have a 2002 Toyota Camry and my check engine light came on , i then took it to a toyota dealer and they told me that the Catalytic Converter needed to be replaced . Can you please email me a copy of the Sercvice Bulletin for the catalytic coverter. Thanks Alot!!
  • ab4dab4d Posts: 4
    edited June 2010
    I was just checking back on this thread, after posting last year about my 04 Camry and the dreaded P0420 code, I am surprised to see the thread still active.

    Nevertheless, I finally got around this spring to getting new converter installed at about 185K. I am happy to say that I just turned 205K and the check engine light has not reappeared. So it appears, in my case a new converter was needed.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    See my summary of the TSB in post #91.
  • My 2002 check engine light is on.
    Dealer said it needs cat. conv. and reflash before it can pass e-check inspection that I need before next month. Car only has 77,000 miles on it. Is the dealer the only one who can fix it?
  • My car is a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE six cylinder and my problem is the dreaded, check engine light. I have been reading the postings and I have a couple of questions. Does the check engine light monitor any other components than the Catalytic Converter? What if anything does Toyota say about this seemingly on going problem, year after year and model after model? I have been quoted $750 for the Converter and $200 for installation and $575 for the O2 sensor. The mechanic suggests from reading the fault codes that the back sensor (after the converter) is probably defective. I am assuming that neither of these components have any moving parts so what causes them to fail?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    The computer, actually, is what is monitoring many components, and using all of those inputs typically to adjust many things like fuel mixture, spark timing, transmission shift points, turning cooling fans on and off, etc, etc, etc. It is looking at all of the sensors, and expecting input values in a certain tolerance range. When it detects something wrong, it usually watches it for a number of cycles, and then turn on the check engine light to warn you something is wrong.

    You take it somewhere to read the computer codes, or buy an inexpensive reader yourself. Your read the error codes from the computer, which will generally tell you the system or area of the vehicle that is having the problem. Sometimes the error codes will point to a specific part, but sometimes to a number of parts any which of could be the problem.

    Read up on the Oxygen sensor if you want. It is sticking in the exhaust pipe subject to extremely hot temperatures and variations. Your hand would burn up if touching it, so yes, they do go bad.
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