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Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling

1235710

Comments

  • louisiana1louisiana1 Posts: 6
    I also switch the relays around and still nothing
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    edited May 2010
    Did you check each of the three fuses I mentioned?

    When you checked for power on certain wires, what did you connect the meter to for a ground?

    Your checks need to be methodical along the power route one direction of the other.

    The first place is to check for power at the BRN wire on the relay which is the blower relay. Then check for power on the Lt Blu output wire--all this with the on and the relay in the circuit. You'll have to backprobe the connectors or use a pin to piece the insulation. Also with someone turning the AC control Off and On you should feel the relay move as it makes contact.

    If you have power there then check power at the resistor leads. Terminal D is the LT BLU from the relay. It should have power all the time if the AC Is on.

    Then the Dark Blue from the resistors goes to the blower High speed switch relay.

    If you want a schematic for the circuits, I can photograph and send you a schematic. I still think work backwards from the high speed relay. Try bypassing to put the RED power wire directly to the purple wire at the relay --using a fused wire--to see if the blower runs. That will run with the key OFF and a back AC head unit. It's a direct connection. To find my email, click on my user name in this post and it's in the profile.
  • tx_bubbatx_bubba Posts: 1
    GO TO THE LINK IN THE POST ABOVE !!!
    Softened plastic in connector blocking vacuum

    My 1998 had the exact same symptoms
    The guy has beautiful pics, good description, and he's right on.

    I ended up just cutting the lines on each side of the connector, and using 3/16 vacuum hose to connect the hoses - bypassing the failed connector.

    Although the connector didnt look bad, I tried sucking on the blue one (to vents) and it was plugged up tight! Nice post! THANKS!!!
  • clearlakeclearlake Posts: 11
    I solved my 1999 LeSabre "programmer" problem for $1.79 for 2 or 3 feet of vacuum lines as opposed to a $2200 to $2700 estimate at a repair shop. Same symptoms of windshield and floor air discharge. I also bypassed the problematic connector with short pieces of vacuum line. Other than one episode of slow gate openings, mine has worked fine. After removing the glove compartment,the programmer is behind it, the hardest part, of course, is the removal of the connector block which means the removal of the "programmer". I worried about disconnecting the electrical and mechanical connections but things went fine. I have several pictures showing the location of the connector block and the interior of the programmer showing the vacuum lines to cut. I just don't know how to make them available.
  • I have a 93 lesabre limited, I have replaced the compressor, the lines, the actuator, the black box connected to it with the colorful lines, and all new sensors on the compressor. I have a dual climate control, that is digital. My temp. control always stays on economy??, when I jumped the compressor, it stayed on economy, the compressor works but no cold air, the Freon pressure is 175, and fuse 25 with 25 amps is fine. So no cold air, no working compressor and the digital control stay on economy. Can some one help me!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    edited June 2010
    First, how did you measure the pressure of the freon? The pressure on the low side should vary between about, about 25 to 40 psi. That should be measured with the system running with the blower on high and stabilized for a few minutes before measuring.

    Your system came with R12. That's hard to find these days. Do you know the history of your car? Have you owned it? Just bought it? Has it been converted to R134a?

    Did you use a vacuum pump? Did you replace the expansion valve?

    Sorry to ask questions. I know only a little about the AC charging.
  • gsragtopgsragtop Posts: 1
    First off I would like to thank this forum for your help fixing my 1998 Buick Lesabre's AC. I had the classic programmer issue with the air blowing out of the defroster, and floor only. $1.60 at my local NAPA, and about an hours worth of time and my air is working great out of the vents as it should... Now another small issue has started, when I first start the car (EVERY TIME), I get about 15-20 seconds of HEAT before it switches to cold air. Also the temp on my display blinks for a little while durring this time. Other wise every thing works great, and its 100% better then it was this AM.. Any ideas on what I can do to fix this issue (as minor as it is )
  • clearlakeclearlake Posts: 11
    As you may know I had the same problem. My solution cost $1.79.

    That said, everything went along great until the same thing happened to me; heat for maybe 15 to 30 seconds. I was concerned but didn't know what to do. It stopped on its own and all is well. I am not a GM mechanic, but I wondered if one or more of the "doors" directing the air-flow hadn't stuck or the vacuum level dropped for some reason. I was ready to look at my by-pass surgery and see if something had slipped.

    I'm glad it's back to full performance.
  • rhmivrhmiv Posts: 1
    I am having a very similar problem. Where do you find the blower relay and blower motor to check it?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    >I get about 15-20 seconds of HEAT before it switches to cold air. Also the temp on my display blinks for a little while durring this time.

    Spend some tiime with the underdash cover and the glovebox off. When you start the car watch the lower rod for the driver blend door. It will move to the right for full heat until it senses a change in temp in the air streams. Then it will go to the normal calculated position for the requested air temp vs. the actual air temps. Then later start the car and watch the upper arm for the passenger side blend door control. It probably won't move properly because the electric actuator has plastic gears inside that have cracked and are slipping on the axle. This may be what causes the error flashing temp light: the programmer isn't able to sense the left and right end points of the movement for the upper door.

    Also you might have low freon charge.

    Replacing the upper actuator is the solution. If you can move the arm with a light force, that probably is verification the gears have split with age.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    The blower motor up to 1999 is on the firewall behind the engine. There's a round bulge with 5 screws. The power lines go up and on top of that same housing and the resistors or blower motor controller for speed sticks down into the air stream.

    The relays are in the relay center above the blower motor.

    Are you having a blower motor issue? Or is air coming out the wrong vents due to vacuum problems?
  • theabbottheabbot Posts: 4
    About a two weeks ago I noticed a loud squealing noise coming from the passengers side down by the glove compartment whenever I turned the A/C on. It would subside after a few mins. A couple days ago I noticed a sloshing water sound from about the same area. Whenever I made a left turn, a decent flow of water would spill onto the passengers side carpet. As of Sunday, there is no air at all coming from the vents. I can feel the compressor engage when I turn the a/c on, but no air comes from the vents. Is it the Blower Motor? Or something else?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    No air from any vents when the blower is ON? Different speeds? Do you get any sound of rushing air? Probably not after the squealing noise. Probably a bearing frozen up in the blower motor.

    However, you can open the hood, open the two little clips on the plastic opening under the passenger side windshield wiper, and inside you'll find either a filter for the incoming air that goes into the cabin or you'll find nothing. If the filter is there, it fits into a plastic skeleton frame. Pull it out. Look down inside and you'll see the blower motor's squirrel cage--the fan part. See if you can rotate it with your fingers. Then turn on the blower motor and see if it rotates?

    There also are problems with the electrical connector for the blower motors--it's right next to them under the dash inside.

    The water is supposed to drain out the rubber tube that's under the passenger side of the firewall behind the motor. Hard to get to, but if someone supports the car safely and can crawl under, they can use a piece of thin wood or something to poke into the tube. It may have a flattened end that water pressure is suppose to push open or some other way to keep air or water from coming up in from the road. When you push something gently up into it, water will probably start rushing out. Goop of some kind probably has clogged it. Prepare for a bath if you are under the car.
  • theabbottheabbot Posts: 4
    No air when the blower is on. No matter the speed. I was able to get to the squirel cage, and it turns freely with my fingers. However, when I turn the blower on, it does not move. I noticed that there is a hood looking object that slowly covers the cage when I turn the blower on. It moves in a jerking motion until it covers the cage.
    I guess I will have to get under the dash to see whats going on there, and clear out the water tube under the passengers side. Thanks for your advice.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    >hood looking

    Can you pull it out from the cowl opening?

    >fan doesn't move

    Connector not making contact? Some have contacts that burn.
    Or the blower motor brushes have stuck in their channel where they slide. As they wear they don't move forward and lose contact.

    Try tapping up on the blower motor with a vibration from your shoe or fist while the key and controls are both turned ON. See if it makes contact and catches. That would tell you everything else is working right.
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    Hi,
    I have a water leak in my 2005 Buick Lesabre. It happens when using the air conditioning. The leak appears to be clear clean water. It's coming from under the dash on the passenger side. The dripping is approximately three inches from the floor board hump. The amount of water is enough to saturate the carpet on the passenger side. I suspect it is a problem with the drain from the condensation removal of the cars air conditioning.
    Any help with thoughts about this problem would be greatly appreciated.

    Is the drain for the condensation under the dash on this vehicle?

    Thanks, Deamer1
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,081
    Hello Deamer1,
    I apologize that your vehicle has a concern. Have you had anyone look at the vehicle to diagnose the concern? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    edited July 2010
    Mariah,
    If you mean have I taken it to a dealership for them to diagnose the problem...no.
    I know how the basics work. It is most likely a broken piece of plastic, a misplaced, worn, split, etc drain hose. Most likely it will be something similar.
    I just don't know the specifics of what I will find when I remove the uderpanel of the dash and get started on the repairs.
    What I did do was pull the car into the gagage, disconnected the battery, mopped up most of the water, opened all the car doors, put a large fan blowing air into the car at the wet spot. I left it there all night...it is now dry and no spots in the carpet.
    So, that is where I'm at on this problem. I was hoping someone had words of wisdom for me on this site with this situation. :)
    Thank you for your concerns,
    Deamer1
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,081
    You're welcome! :) If you decide to take the vehicle in please let me know. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    The drain is below the passenger side of the firewall. I believe it's a tube with a squared end. Probably the tube is clogged with some kind of goop. Push some kind of soft wire or something up into it and the water held back in the AC drain pan will probably come gushing out.

    Dirt, pollen, mold, mildew, leaf particles, etc., can get into that area and form a muck that blocks the drain.

    If you can park your car in some way to leave room underneath to crawl under from the side, you should see the rubber drain. I cannot see mine from the top of the engine compartment. Do not lift the car with the scissors jack for changing cars and get under. It is dangerous to do so. Jackstands are a must for solid support.
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    imidazol97,
    Thanks for responding. Great minds think alike!
    What I have done so far...removed the dust shield from under the passenger side of the dash. Laid on the floor board until I slightly cracked several ribs :) I carefully observed under the dash and finally came up with two spots which had a water droplet suspended from them. I touched each with a corner of a paper shop towel to wick the droplet off and then observed additional droplets forming. Repeating this often, I figured I wasn't getting the proper draining of the AC water.
    The plastic parts under the dash are many and packed in a close space.
    My time was limited so, I had to quit for a time....which was a good thing. I finally came up with the same idea which you provided for me.
    Again my time was limited. I have not jacked up the car and put it on stands yet. That is what I intend to do and then see if the drain is blocked. It may well be that is the problem.
    I'll keep you informed if you would like, as I progress.
    Deamer1
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    I've got the car jacked up and placed jack stands under it. Crawling under the car, I haven't found a drain line yet for the A.C.
    From inside the car, under the passenger side of the dash...a drain line runs down and goes under the carpet and is angled as if it stays under the carpet and going toward the rear of the floor panel on the passenger side.
    I haven't figured out how to loosen the trim so I can raise the carpet up to trace it better, but I took out the back seat and lifted the carpet up on the passenger side of the back seat floorboard...It's wet...real wet. Could the drain hose possibly run to the rear seating area and come out there?
    Any words of advise are always welcomed.
    Must go crawl under the car and see if I can figure this out.
    Deamer1
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    I got under mine and left it running for a while to see where the drip comes down.

    Behind the right front wheel look across and up under the car. There's a large cross beam. There is a 1.25 inch round bar about 2 inches behind it. I think that's the sway bar. The drip comes down just behind the big square crossbeam at about the point where the sway bar comes downward and bends to go horizontally across. I didn't try, but I suspect a long arm can reach upward to the area where the tube should be hanging. It will have some kind of system designed so it's not open except when water's weight is forcing water out.
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    Hey! Hey! imidazol97,
    I really appreciate you and your input to my problem. It may sound like nothing to others, but your input helped me solve my problem and I want to share it with others. This is a situation which I'm sure will be experienced by others. It's easy to fix once you have good information about the problem. You have helped me and I'd like to provide some input for others.
    I jacked the car up using a floor jack. I blocked the rear wheels, and put jack stands under the frame in the front end. Your input helped me locate the A.C. drain, but it took several attempts for me to find the drain hose.
    The A.C. drain is located almost in the center of the car, high in the dash. I'll describe the location from the underneath of the car as that is where you'll have to unplug the drain hose.
    The A. C. drain hose on my 2005 Buick LeSabre is located high above the point where the manifold meets the catalitic converter. These cars are so low to the ground that I wouldn't have found it without jacking the car up and putting it on Jack Stands and crawling under it.
    Above the catalitic converter is a small drain hose coming out of the dash. It's approximately a 1/2 inch line. It extends out of the dash approximately two inches, then bends down in a 90 degree bend for approximately three inches. the end of my drain hose is like the neck of a balloon. Coming out of the dash it is a round hose, but at the end where the water comes out...it has flat sides that go together. I found some sort of gunky matter in the outlet end of the hose. The water coming out was only a drop once in a while, nothing like it should have been. The blockage caused the water to back up inside the car and spill into the passenger side of the floor board.
    I took a 5/32 inch copper rod approximately 25 inches long and used it to open the drain hose. A couple of flicks of the rod and splash! I got wet. The drain was open, then I had to address the moisture inside under the floor carpet.
    Wishing everyone well and hoping your problems are small. :)

    Deamer1
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    edited July 2010
    Thanks for reporting back. That will help others.

    Be aware there's a rubber like pad under the carpet that holds the moisture underneath. You might want to try lifting it at edges to blow air under if you park car in a garage in some way to dry it. Or lift it at edges with wood pieces and park in the hot sun with windows cracked enough to give airflow on breezy days.

    Is there water pooling in the area under the front seats especially on the driver side? If so, there's a connector of 4 tan wires that corrodes and you lose communication between the driver door module and the three other door modules.

    Bonneville owners have had lots more problems with leaks and water from sunroofs and door liner leaks along with an occasional windshield leak. Add in wheel hump leaks in the trunk along with some others. Some of them take the seats and everything out to hang the carpet and mats up to dry.
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    Hi imidazol97,
    The amount of moisture in my car was more than I thought. Originally I thought there was a little moisture under the passenger side carpet near the top where the carpet goes up into the dash area. The water had actually saturated the entire carpet padded area under the passenger side and went completely to the rear floor board section on the passenger side.
    I took out the back seat, disconnected the battery, pulled the rear passenger carpet up as much as I could (wasn't enough) When I put my hand under the carpet it was saturated with a lot more to spare.
    I took five shop towels and packed them under the carpet. When they were saturated I pulled them out, rung them out and put them back under the carpet. I did this maybe ten times. I still had the car up on jack stands so water was running slowly from the front passenger side under the carpet to the rear. There was a lot of water in there and still some in the carpet padding, but not as bad as it was.
    I need to remove the plastic trim holding the edges of the carpet along the door frames bottom, but don't know how these come loose. Do they pop out?
    The weather here was in the 100+ heat index so I parked the car outside, disconnected the battery and opened all the doors. I wedged some small 2x4 pieces under the front carpet near the dash and the rear carpet just at the back seat. I left the car like this all day. I has dried some more, but I really need to remove some of the trim to raise the carpet better to dry it out. Would you know how to remove the plastic trim along the bottom of the doors which hold the carpet in place?
    That's pretty much it in a nutshell. Still working on drying it out.
    Deamer1
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    The carpet retainers that are the door sills snap in. There are three snaps shown along the bottom and one snap at the end that is raised upward--that one looked like a rear door retainer.

    The factory manual says you can use a fan pointed at the wet area. They don't mention the under layment. Maybe that's only behind the rear seat or under the front floorboard.
  • deamer1deamer1 Posts: 7
    I removed the trim using a inexpensive tool from Harbor Freight. They have a set of five (5) trim tools under $10.00 The wide trim tool lifted the plastic trim with ease.
    I lifted the carpets in the front and rear floor board area as much as I could...blocked them up with a short piece of 2 x 4, placed the car outside as we had two days of 100+ degree days. I disconnected the battery, opened all doors, placed a box fan on a stand for each area and let it blow air under the carpet area for two days. It is drying, but isn't completely dry as of today. I will do this until it is dry.
    Another thing I tried is to blow my shop vac into the areas using the exhaust heat from the electric motor. It works, but is best with a smaller amount of moisture, not like what I experienced. The most difficult to dry is the rubber padding attached to the carpet back which is located under the front seat without removing the seat. Wicking this area and using a fan is working, so I will continue.
    Deamer1
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,179
    Sounds like you are working it out yourself just fine.

    Does the car have drain down protection on the battery? I believe LeSabres do--maybe a Custom might not. But if you leave the headlights turned on or the doors open, the power is turned off after about 10 minutes. Same for trunk and overhead lights.

    You might not have to disconnect the battery is my point.

    If you are in an area of the country where you get dry humidity days, I always used those where the hot sun was shining into the car and I leave the windows down an inch on one side of the car to suck air through the AC unit to dry out the accumulated moisture that stays in the drain. You might get even more drying on those days than on high humidity days.
  • There is no control of the temp by the A.T.C. I opened a door in the heater box [non-permissible content removed]. to allow A.C. to operate. I now have A.C. but no control of the temp. I think it may be the control unit. Where is it located under the dash ? What does it look like ? Is there an interchange with other G.M. vehicles ? Or should I be looking elsewhere ?

    Tony
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