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Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling

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  • Thanks for the help, I'll try that in the morning. Boy, don't buy an aftermarket warranty unless you're really good at diagnostics!
  • I have since replaced the blower resistor pack still nothing--guess next is going after the blower controller inside the car--any direction prior to that move-moving out of the 20-40 dollar parts into the 80 dollar zone.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    edited February 2012
    What year is the car--it's a 92 - 1999 based on your post.

    Did you do diagnosis?

    Were you getting power to the motor connection?

    Were you getting power to the resistor pack.

    Are you getting power to the resistor pack?

    I'm concerned that you are hanging parts without the proper diagnosis.

    I'm seldom heard of Buick control panels having problems. A few Bonnevilles did with the blower switch.

    Does the blower work on HIGH?

    You really need to know if you are getting power. I say that because there are two relays in the relay center under the hood. One makes contact and powers up the blower switch. Then the other is a double throw single pole switch that switches from the low 3 speeds to the one HIGH speed by giving a direct 30 amp fused circuit to the battery. the lower 3 speeds all come through the other relay and through the switch contacts and through the resistor pack. If you get NO speeds at all I would consider the single pole relay under the hood. It will be the same part number as other relays in the center like the horn, AC compressor, so they can be switched for trouble shooting.

    http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/?action=view&current=1993heate- - r.jpg

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/buickblowerrelay502chj8.jpg

    The single pole blower relay will have 4 contacts; the double throw relay for HIGH speed will have 5 contacts. The relays have a spring bar that rides up over a prong on the relay center when pushed inward. Use a blade to lift that spring bar to pull the relay forward to inspect.

    The relays can burn and not make contact after a lot of cycles. That's why I now would suspect the blower speed relay. At least you can remove it and test it by switching it with the horn relay, e.g., if they have the same part number!

    Good luck
  • dagenesterdagenester Posts: 2
    edited August 2012
    Hello. I was following the deamer1 and imidazol97 conversation from a couple years ago (July 2010), but I can't seem to find the drain plug on a 2004 LeSabre. I was having all the same issues that Deamer1 was. EXACTLY the same - wet floor, AC draining on the passenger's side. BUT, I can't seem to find the drain. I look from under the hood to under the car, and I cannot find a tube coming out of the dash area. I was also reading another blog that talked about a 2004 Ranier, and I couldn't find the drain tube there, either.

    It was interesting, though... when I jacked up the car to look underneath, I found a weird little tube sticking out of the bottom of the back of the car, by the rear passenger wheel. It began to leak a lot of water after jacking the car up. I'm just going to guess (I am by no means an auto mechanic, but some stuff makes sense to me! :) ), but I think that, because the battery is under the back seat (what a weird place for a battery!), that little drain helps to keep water from hangin' around by it? Correct?

    So, I guess a couple things. 1. Where's the little drain plug thingy? 2. What's that little drain thing by the rear passenger wheel that kicked out water when I jacked up the car? :)

    Thanks for your help! :)
    Gene.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Do you have a sunroof? Those have tubes that drain in front of each rear wheel and on each side of the front they come down through the A-pillar and drain out somewhere right under the A-pillar area through the floor of the car. People get at them in the corners inside the passenger compartment. They become disconnected there or plugged.

    The AC drain is just as Deamer described. I haven't looked for mine for a long, long time. Look inside at the HVAC box sitting on the hump and then connect that with a drain out a lower part that goes through the floor into the firewall area near the bottom.
  • Thank you for your rapid reply! :) No, I have no sunroof. It's the AC thing. Would the drain be in the same spot in a 2005 as it would in a 2004? Also, when you say "look inside at the HVAC box sitting on the hump", is that from Inside the car that I do this? Do I need to remove the Glove Box and stuff? (non-mechanic here... ;) )

    Also, the little drain on the back of the car - that was for the Sulfuric Acid fumes to escape. It was for the battery. The battery has a couple little tubes that are on either end, and then join in a T to the tube that goes out through the bottom of the car. There was water sitting in with the battery, thus the reason that it leaked water... DOH!

    I ripped up some rug and started to let things dry... AT LEAST a gallon of water had to get mopped up! sheesh! I live in Arizona, so it is nice n dry here. I let the car sit in the sun with all the windows down, and I'll have to do this a lot over the next few days.

    Ok, I'll look again for the little drain tube. Thanks for all your assistance!

    Gene.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    The AC drain will be in the same place.

    As for the battery vent tube for the hydrogen and oxygen fumes while charging, it should be venting directlyl below the battery, not over by the passenger rear tire. And it should only have gases in it, no liquids like water.

    Good luck with spending time under the car--remember use jack stands or ramps to hold car up to give room. Wait till hot parts cool to crawl under!
  • I'm having heater control problems on a 1999 LaSabre. I believe it to be a vacuum prob. I dropped the glove box. and found a vacuum manifold of some kind. It has orange,black, white and green tubes on one side with a pink fitting broke off. the other side has a pink tube shoved into the opposite side of the black line. no other tubes on that side. any thoughts or idea where i can locate a vaccum diagram?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Are you describing a dual control system or the manual system without the digital readout?
  • dual control with digital display.
  • I have a 2003 Buick Lesabre Custom and the fan only works after hitting a bump.
    Where is the module located, does it need replacing or is there a short?
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    fan motor is above passenger's left toes. You can see the round bottom of the motor throught the plastic sound shield under the dash. Tapping this area with your toe will sometimes start the motor again when the key is on.

    The motor's brushes may be sticking in the channels, the motor just may not make contact, or the connect from the motor to the hvac box may be corroded from heat damage. You might check the connector after you take off the sound panel.

    But 3 screws hold the motor up in place. IT's a medium job because you're lying on your back to reach under and work on it. It's fairly heavy to lift into place and get the 1 inch tube the carries air back to the motor for cooling it in place. But it's doable. Autozone had the replacement motors when I looked for mine.
  • I need your help. My 97 buick lesabre has no heat or ac the panel on the dash is completely dead no lights no response when buttons pushed. It is not climate control. I have been on this forum for several days trying to fix the problem. I have no power to the panel. I ran a by pass wire to the blower switch still no results all relays and fuses check good The controller under the dash with the vacuum lines has a 12 volt power wire and when it is plugged in there is about three to four votes that goes to the back of the panel to several wires. What else can it be? Oh I have tried another switch panel same results
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    edited February 2013
    Fuse #5A Auto A/C Cruise 15 amp
    Fuse #5D Base A/C 25 A
    both in driver side fuse block under dash The number tells you the row and column.

    the other thing is the one relay for the heater motor could not be pulling in. It's the one with 4 wires. It has two brown wires for low power for the primary coil and the high power ines are brown and Lt Blue.

    The other relay for blower has 5 wires because it's a double contact with the primary wires orange and black and high power purple, DK blue, and RED.

    The relay pulls in to provide low power to the blower speed switch otherwise there's no contact. I suspect it pulls in when the ON button is pushed for heater or AC.

    I suspect this because you do not say anything about the high blower speed working.

    This is the relay center

    image

    The relays have a tang on the bottom that snaps over a ridge to hold them in plane. Use a long steak knife type device to hold the tang up and they slide forward and out with enough wiring on them to inspect.

    The suspect relay is interchangeable with the horn relay or the AC compressor relay. So switch them. I took the cover off one long ago and found the contact was burned on the relay so it wouldn't make contact--this was on the the compressor relay.

    The other part is ground. Ground 202 is beside the parking brake area. There's a bolt screwed into the body the way the picture looks.

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/2012-05-13_195728_bmr1.gif
  • Thank-you for your response I switched the relays today, but was not aware of the fuses under the dash I don't have any thing that tells me what they are for. So your info is very helpful.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Note the correct location of Ground #202. I had the wrong ones.
  • Heater only working partially and then only when temp at max. Removed glove box and observed temp actuator. It did not move when temp changed. Removed the clip and manually moved blender valve over range and it seemed OK. However, the temp actuator when moved manually (switch off) felt a little "ratchety". When turned switch back on and started car, the temp actuator worked ok until I turned temp down. After responding to the "temp down" situation, and then manually turning temp up, the temp actuator did not move again even tho max temp (just cold air coming out). Did this a number of times with same result. Sometimes tho, the system seemed to work OK. Also, when the temp actuator moves on its on to the full hot position, it makes a creaking sound as it gets near the limit.

    Do you think I have a bad temp actuator? Have not checked the vaccuum at this point. I had my brother check GM on part, and they responded with 2 versions depending on VIN. My car is automatic A/C. I do not want to buy part from dealer - can get on-line for less $$$. How do I know what actuator to order (if that is the problem)?

    For now, I have removed the link on the actuator and wired the blender valve in the heat position so my wife can have heat (she detests a cold car!).

    Also is there any way to replace the actuator without removing the entire dash as the FSM indicates?

    Thanks for your advice.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    edited February 2013
    You have the manual control system--it does NOT have the dual temp and digital readout, right? Yours has one actuator on top of the HVAC box?

    If I understand what you did, you disconnected the blend door from the electric actuator arm. The blend door moved smoothly. And You wired the blend door in heat position and I assume that gives full normal hot temps when the engine is up to temperature.

    My experience is that you should not be able to move the actuator with a gentle force from a finger on the arm. I suspect what you are feeling is the large gear slipping on the axle of the arm. The large white gear cracks and that loosens the grip on the axle. I repaired mine on a dual system by moving the gear so the crack was not in the range of motion and putting superglue between the white gear and shaft (axle). I let it dry overnight. It hasn't failed for a year.

    Take out the plastic sound panel under the dash. Take off the 6-7 screws holding the glovebox door on. Then all you have to do (grin) is lie on your back or side and unclip the little set of leads from the actuator to the programmer at the programmer IIRC. The actuator has two screws holding it down. I suggest using fishline or fine string through the socket so it doesn't drop out of reach if it's fumbled. I don't recall the socket size, metric or SAE. This can be replaced without taking the dash face off. Since you don't need the actuator, I suggest taking it out and then finding out what replacement you need...

    Try Rockauto.com. You can enter the part number on the actuator and it should give you the updated replacement part number. You can call rockauto/email them if you need more help. I only see two on rockauto--one C67 for manual and CJ2 for auto. Check your trunk tag of options to verify C67. #1571835

    The actuator comes apart with a few screws. There are several intermeshed gears and you'll see what I mean. There is a groove on the top with a nub on the axle that limits the travel range.

    Good luck on however you choose to attack the problem.

    Here's typically what you'll see upon disassembly. There is a lot of gear multiplication, so you should not be able to move the screw gear on the motor by pushing on the external arm... unless you push hard enough to break it. And it probably already has a cracked gear.

    Good luck.

    image
  • I have a 97 Buick LeSabre Limited with dual electronic climate controls. My mechanic tells me the AC Control Head is bad. The unit has a number of names, but it is the in dash display with the push buttons and the digital temperature read-outs that is bad.

    My question is, how do I remove the old one, and install a new one? I found a replacement part in a on-line junkyard, but have no idea what steps to take to remove the old and install the new.
  • goodvibezgoodvibez Posts: 1
    I have a similar question. A friend came to me and said she has a 97 lesabre and a mechanic told her the blower module is bad. She doesn't have any fan on heat or ac settings. The display lights up and you can go from 60-80degrees. Is this a easy fix and where Is it located?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    The removal for the radio/HVAC control is that the plastic wood pieces pull out of the dash with metal pressure fittings. Just give a good pull.

    Then the front of the dash comes off with a screw in each of the air vent openings at the bottom after you remove the movable air deflectors. Do not drop the screws down the air openings. This is called the trim panel. My 98 FSM only shows the 4 screws holding it. There are either more screws under or there are press fit friction clips.

    I am not sure this is a good set of instructions. I have never had that panel off on my car.

    I also think that usually the problem with the controls is the programmer box under the dash on teh corner of the heater box or one of the two electrical fuses.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    edited June 2013
    >the blower module is bad

    Was that the blower control module? It's the equivalent of the resistors that change speeds in the regular control setup.

    the Blower Control Module is where the power cables from the blower motor lead up on top of the heater duct the motor sits in. The module is cooled by the air just like the resistors are.

    If it's bad, there is no fan, but everything else works okay.

    The relay center above it is held by two screws and can be lifted slightly to give access room to the two screws holding the module in.

    Remove the negative battery cable before moving the relay center with its fuses and relays.
  • My 2002 lesabre has starting overheating on me. The first time my mechanic said it was this tube that runs through the engine block. He said if that is rusted inside it will make it overheat so he changed the external tube and it stayed normal for like two weeks. So then it would only overheat when sitting too long ar a light vut as soon as i drive itll drop a few noches, not completley but out of danger. So, i changed thermostats, hoses, put only coolant and it worked for like a week, temperature stayed below danger but above normal. Now it completley overheats to the point where the car has cut off. Is my problem the waterpump? there is no water leaking. HELP!  :)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Take a look at the color of the engine oil on the dipstick. If it's a brown, milkshake color, your coolant may be getting into the engine oil. That's fatal if it has gone on for a while.

    I don't understand what the mechanic did. But the most common problem will be the gasket under the metal lower intake manifold and the heads has deteriorated and is allowing a leak into the engine air intake and the oil pan. That may explain the stalling because the coolant causes misfiring in the cylinders.

    A second problem area might be the intake manifold that's plastic where it meets with the metal throttle body that controls the air intake and volume. That gasket can leak.

    A third area might be the EGR internal port which is hard plastic has deteriorated with heat--not as likely after 1999.

    A fourth problem might be not the above but that the coolant is goopy if someone added regular green antifreeze to the original orange DexCool. That may be blocking some of the coolant flow through the radiator.

    You need to find a good mechanic who knows these cars. A dealer may be your best bet for an analysis of what the problem is, despite their higher cost. You may be spending money as well as time with damage occurring at a poor local mechanic.
  • shildebrshildebr Posts: 1
    Is there a chqnce you still have these pictures and how u fixed this issue. This is the exact issue i am having with my 1999 buick lesabre. Thanks for ur help.
  • I had to replace my battery and now my ac is not working. Air will only blow through the defroster and it doesn't get very cold. I have had my car looked at and was told that my a/c unit is working fine and it is probably an actuator but now sure how to decide which actuator to buy. I have automatic ac with temperature display but not dual controls. Please help...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    What year is your leSabre?

    When there is no vacuum, the system should go to defroster for safety.

    But on 1999 and prior, there also is a problem with operation of the actuator for the door that blocks the defroster and makes air come out the dash vent.
  • bhoppbhopp Posts: 5
    2002 lesaber heat blows cold unless temp set at max 90 it is a limited w/dual control
  • bhoppbhopp Posts: 5
    where is temp sensor for heating system dual control digital system
  • My 99 Buick Lesabre AC doesn't blow through vents. It only blows out the defrost and floor. It works on all fan speeds. No matter what air flow position I select on the Ac head unit it will only blow out the defrost and floor. I have done a lot of reading on this problem and thought several times I was close to solving the problem with disappointing results. Here is what I have done to this point. I have replaced the AC head unit twice, what they call the Air Mix Actuator and the AC programmer. (All parts from local salvage yard). The vacuum line leading in from the fire wall has been vacuum tested. When I first turn my key on the 2 levers of the doors move to the right and then back to the left. If I change my temperature on the head unit to warm then the 2 levers move to the right and I have heat. So I am assuming the doors are functioning properly(??) But like I said no matter what air flow selection I choose on the AC head unit I only get air flow from the defrost and floor. Nothing comes out the vents. I am at a loss. Can someone please help? FYI... I had the same problem on a 94 Lesabre and I change the head unit and the problem was solved for about a year. Then it would from time to time just blow out the defrost and floor. You could just be driving down the road and it would switch back to the vents. Makes me wonder if the head unit was the whole culprit on the 94 or not? I've sold the 94 so it is not an issue now. I thought I would mention my 94 problem just so you know my frustration with Lesabre AC issues. Once again CAN someone please help me?
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