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Nissan Altima CVT



  • mlmcgaheemlmcgahee Posts: 102
    At 60,000 miles the CVT fluid needs to be checked by the Nissan Service Department. They check to see how much viscosity life the CVT fluid has left and if it needs to be replaced. It's in the service manual.

    Mike :shades:
  • Can you comment on the "need" to use CVT fluid? I was quoted $440 by the dealership to do the fluid flush. The technician didn't see a problem with using an after market transamission flush from Jiffylube or pepboys. More questionable was the service managers response to my further questioning. I asked him, "What sort of problems have you had with higher mileage CVT's and what can I exepct?" His reply..."I don't have enough experience to advise you"

    I am shocked that this topic has so many varied responses to the long term quality. Shame on you Nissan for making us skeptical.
  • That sounds massively suspect. Try another dealer-sincerely. Either the manager is avoiding your question, or he really DOESN'T know, and hence you need to go to another service department. This dealership sounds like a big liability to Nissan to me.
  • mlmcgaheemlmcgahee Posts: 102
    2010 Nissan Altima Owners Manual
    Page: 8-13

    ● Use only Genuine NISSAN CVT Fluid
    NS-2. Do not mix with other fluids.
    ● Using transmission fluid other than
    Genuine NISSAN CVT Fluid NS-2 will
    damage the CVT, which is not covered
    by the NISSAN new vehicle limited
    When checking or replacement of CVT fluid is
    required, we recommend your NISSAN dealer for

    Mike :shades:
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    I'm not sure why you would be skeptical about Nissan CVTs based on what a single service manager told you in one conversation.

    Nissan extended the warranty on both the CVTs that are in Nissan products in my immediate family to 120k miles/10 years.

    That sounds like a pretty good level of confidence in their product to me. How many other manufacturers offer such a warranty?
  • juanca08juanca08 Posts: 15
    I had a 2010 Altima and base on my experience with the CVT I will not buy another car with CVT transmission again. After 5 times in the shop, two complete transmission replacements, two computers and sofware upgrades they couldn't fix it. Finally Nissan took it back :lemon:
  • juanca08juanca08 Posts: 15
    I had a 2010 Altima and base on my experience with the CVT I will not buy another car with CVT transmission again. After 5 times in the shop, two complete transmission replacements, two computers and sofware upgrades they couldn't fix it. Finally Nissan took it back :lemon:
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Fair enough...

    At least you have had a tangible experience (bad) with a Nissan CVT.

    Every manufacturer has lemons, and your number apparently came up. Mine came up in the late 1980's on a S10 Blazer. It should have been painted yellow instead of red.

    The big difference here was you had actual problems, not just a mis-statement from some service manager.

    The OP didn't mention any problems... Only that he was given contradictory information.

    Big difference, at least to me.

    If mis-statements caused huge concerns to shoppers at places like Best Buy, these places would no longer exists... Besides, in this case, the correct info is clearly printed in the owner's manual.
  • mlmcgaheemlmcgahee Posts: 102
    I am in agreement with busiris. I have had 2 Nissan's (2007 Rogue and a 2010 Altima Coupe) with a CVT and I have had Zero problems. I did have a lemon :lemon: experience with a 2007 Toyota Rav4. They installed 3 transmissions in 6 months and did a lemon law by-back. That's when I bought my Nissan Rogue.

    Mike :shades:
  • hello all

    i tried to look for someone who has the same problem as mine, but i couldn't, too much issues to look.
    anyways here is my problem, i live in Saudi Arabia, and i drive between the cities too much, my altima after like 1 hour driving within the speed of 160/190 KM it stops moving forward and the speed dropping slowly and you cant speed up the car for more than 100-120 for like 10-15 min, even if try to drop down the transmission number from 6 to 5, nothing happen, its totally stuck.
    after like 10-15 min, everything goes back to normal and i can seed up again to 170-190 KM but again after a while the same problem occur again.

    i did few researches and i found out it might be with the coolant(radiator) of the Transmission, its not designed to cool very much and that's causing the temperature of CVT oil to increase and then the sensors of the transmission will sense this high temperature which will cause the stuck for a while.

    i want a solution please :cry: , can i replace the coolant with a different kind, or the oil or anything els that could clearly solve my problem

    an urgent advise would be very appreciated.
  • and this is the video of my car and the issue
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,680
    edited September 2012
    "2013 Honda Accord: Attention To G-Forces Yields A Better CVT" rces-yields-a-better-cvt

    "....While that itself impressed us, what's the most noteworthy in the Accord's CVT is how quickly it can respond and bring revs up when needed. For instance, a number of CVTs (including the one in the 2013 Nissan Altima, surprisingly) will feel completely flat-footed and off their game if you roll around a corner at 15 mph with your foot off the gas and then accelerate at full throttle. The time to tap into full thrust is delayed for a surprising time. But in the Accord, it very quickly raises revs all the way up to the Accord's 6,600-rpm redline. Pull off the same test, dipping into half throttle out of the corner, and it very quickly finds the right ratio for the throttle opening—feeling a lot like downshifting and with no slow, muddled ramp-up.

    How did Honda achieve this far better (we think) CVT calibration when rivals like Nissan have been working at it for so long? According to the project leader, Honda's CVT isn't much different in the mechanical design, but Honda put a lot of time into oil pressure control and electrical systems, along with the control software...."
  • ý6 weeks - transmission still on back order. I brought my 2009 Nissan Altima Coupe (25,000 miles) into shop on August 8 & they tell me I need a new transmission. It will be covered under warranty but will take 4-6 weeks to come in. Fine, I can take that but when I call after the 6 weeks it is still on backorder & have no idea when it will be in. I am also told to keep driving the car until it breaks down completely. So put my life & others around me in danger for WHEN my car just dies in the middle of the road & have it towed in & they will give me a loaner IF they have one. Something just doesn't sound right to me????
  • Took my Altima to the dealer this morning to determine why it was acting up. Twenty minutes later the service adviser told me it needs a new transmission and that they would give me a loaner. He estimates they'll have it back to me on Wed. Loaner is a 2012 3.5L Altima, so I don't mind if they take a few extra days. Replacement is covered by the post-sale transmission warranty extension Nissan put in place.

    While I get that there are many cars out there that have no problems, a major failure so early in the life of a car makes me wonder about the long term reliability of Nissan and the CVT transmissions.
  • sonazsonaz Posts: 6
    edited January 2013
    In response to jd10013 whose RPM was misbehaving while coasting-

    Were you in 'D' or 'Ds' mode (transmission lever setting)?

    Sounds to me that you may have unknowingly been set to Ds (manual 'shift' mode - but doing no manual 'shifting' .

    I have a 3.5 SL and have not experienced your issue - most of my driving is done in 'D' (not 'Ds).

    BTW, setting to Ds mode and stepping on it when the light turns green, the car is like a rocket ship !
  • Here is what I know.... and some of the follow up posts are getting a bit far away from the CVT.... anyway...

    Mine is a 2009 Altima sedan with the 2.5S, CVT, 4 doors. I just started during a road trip to Cleveland, from Washington DC...The transmission fluid heats up, the engine cuts power via control signals from computer, car nearly stops. Pull over, shut off for 5-10 minutes, it will probably be back to normal. . . . For a few miles. Anyway, Look in the Altima manual, on page 5-20 it says, (paraphrase) Avoid driving this vehicle for extended distances, or at high or low speeds, for extended periods.... OMFG!!!!! You mean to tell me we bought a vehicle that does not like to be driven?!?!?!? Yes folks, we did. I will be taking mine back to the dealer for replacement (of entire vehicle) this week. This is unacceptable for many reasons, not only or the least of which, is the safety of myself, my wife, my child, and the other drivers on the road! Also, professionally speaking, this issue could cause a number of folks to become extremely unhappy with me.

    This issue is touted as a SAFETY FEATURE, to protect the transmission from damage. I feel if the transmission is that "Light Duty", it should be in a smart-car.

    If there is a way to deprogram this "Safety Feature", or install a larger and more efficient Transmission Oil Cooler, ( I do not know yet if it even has one, I forgot to look last time under the vehicle), I would love to know.

    FOlks, stop wasting your time taking it to and from the dealer, they are going to charge you for diagnostics if they can, and they can do nothing. It is the way it is designed. If you dont belive me, read three paragraphs up or open the manual. IT IS CLEAR AS DAY. Also, do not feel put down by me. It is not my intention. Rmember, I own one too. I have worked on cars. I have seen the best new features and designs, and the worst new features and designs, and this particular " Safety Feature" is mind-bogglingly stupid. Never have I seen such a useless "Feature" in all my years under the hood. In fact, if I had been informed by the dealer of this feature, I WOULD NOT HAVE PURCHASED IT! NO WAY! I feel that if I tell the vheicle what to do, it will do it. MY VEHICLE DOES NOT TELL ME HOW TO DRIVE IT!

    I cant really say much else. If any one of you have a second to repost this short diatribe on other sites and forums, that will help the word get out much better. I feel for each of you, I do. Myself as well. I reall, reallly..... REALLY hope I don't have to sue! But my finance company will not get another dime from me on this particular set of wheels!

    Join me in the fight to end the rampant stupidity!
  • Reliability is structurally sound, this bogging down is all part of the safety features programmed into the computer. You just have to decide if you can deal. I cannot.
  • Yes, in theory your write up of the CVT is accurate and thorough. COngrats. This particular issue that this thread started with has clearly not plagued you, yet. You are so far extremely lucky. Try taking a road trip, and really stretch it's legs. When it wants to, the engine will cut power, and eventually force you to pull over and shut it down, because the trans oil is too hot. Make sure you find each emergency aprking area along the highway as you travel, cause if you get stuck without one, your life will be in danger at that point in your journey, and you will quickly change your opinion. Read my post, and it will make you see better.

    Also, please do not feel offended by my response to you. It is not my intention. I promise.
  • To mattw522, I'll try to do this politely and to help you with your "fight to end the rampant stupidity".

    You need to open up the manual again and READ IT MORE CAREFULLY!

    The section you reference is prefaced by a bold header saying "BREAK-IN SCHEDULE" (Nissan's caps) and then has this highlighted text:

    "During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km), follow these recommendations to obtain maximum engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle. Failure to follow these recommendations may result in shortened engine life and reduced engine performance."

    After this are the following bullets, the first of which you seem to have an issue with:

    ● Avoid driving for long periods at constant speed, either fast or slow, and do not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.
    ● Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
    ● Avoid quick starts.
    ● Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
    ● Do not tow a trailer for the first 500 miles (800 km). Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

    Quite simply, the words you're all riled up about were for a brief break-in period when the car was brand new!

    You really need to re-read the manual before you begin ranting at the dealer or trying to return a 4 year old vehicle!
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