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Chevrolet TrailBlazer Electrical Problems

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  • shawn70shawn70 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2007 Trailblazer about a month ago from one of those buy here pay here places, which means NO WARRANTY. So a week ago I'm driving home at 11 at night and not one but both the dim lights went out. I can't see I'm panicking and I flip the switch to the bright lights just in time to see me about to miss rounding the curve in the road. I took the truck to a dealer who tells me it "may be your switch hun and I can look at it for $400 and hope that fixes your problem" SERIOUSLY no $400 better fix my problem not maybe so I go to a little one stop place and try them they say it's the switch and can fix it for $187 ok so that's twice I'm told the switch. I decided to go to Auto Zone and get a switch, $126, easy enough to change out and fix well guess what STILL NO DIM LIGHTS!!!! I have changed out the bulbs, fuses, switch, and everything I can think of on my own. I had a mechanic look at the wires and he says they are all good so I don't know what to do now. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
  • spork78spork78 Posts: 1
    My 04 Trailblazer new battery started draining, after replacing a 4year old battery. A repair shop said it was corrosion between the body frame and the negative ground cable, fix $100+! How can this be? The battery light never came on, nor did the voltmeter show any discharge while the engine was running. Two days after this fix the gauges stoped working, why?
  • fafel1fafel1 Posts: 1
    Hello All,

    I am having some trouble with my wife's 05 TB EXT LS. For a while the speedometer has been working on and off. Sometimes it marks good, sometimes it just doesn't move at all, or I could be going at 60-70mph and says is going at 30mph. No biggie on that, truck was still driving, so a quick app download on phone gave me speed.
    Sometimes the when at a red light, the truck would completely shut off...only has happened around 4-5 times in the 3 years we've had truck...would start right away, so we kept driving it.
    Check engine would come on and off, took it to auto part, forgot the code it gave, but they said it wasn't a big deal. The light would come off, so again we kept driving it.
    For a few months now, I've had a battery drain problem. Checked battery, was from 08 so decided to replace. No problems for a few days, then again, new battery completely dead. A jump start would solve the problem, for 2 days...so I started digging into it. Started checking fuses under the hood, took off ignition and onstar fuses off overnight, put them back in next day, truck started without a problem. Thought it would be the onstar module, so since I don't use it, left it out. Next day, battery drained again. I took all the fuses out of the front, checked battery voltage every 5 minutes or so (after waiting around 30 mins for computer to shut off) and voltage kept going down. Figured the fault wasn't there, and since it was about to rain, I took all the fuses out in the rear fuse box to see if the voltage would stop dropping, yeah, probably a bad move on my part. I put everything back next day. voltage kept dropping. Now when I start the car and put on drive, it's apparently on 2nd gear! At all this the key was stuck in ignition, even when battery was fully charged. Had to push on the release to get key out. Ordered new ignition switch (thanks to all posters on the subject!) I left the battery connected without the ignition switch connected, for 3 days, no battery drain. Put new switch in, still key won't come out, and got a battery drain again. and to top it off...the temperature gauge now is all crazy..like it got de-calibrated? it sits about a 180 degrees from 0 mark when engine is off and then it goes up (well keeps going its way toward the 0 mark doing a complete circle in the gauge meter)... No $ to take to mechanic..and wife going nuts for not having a car..she can't drive a stick shift so she can't drive my VW golf.

    Sorry for the long post, but just thought i'd give and overview of what's doing and what i've done...Does anybody have any pointers for me? I'm good with a meter, and good with tools, I've rebuilt engines before, I'm an audio engineer by trade, with some electronic know how, but this is driving me crazy!

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks, Fafel
  • I just bought this 2004 trailblazer ls (4WD) in february. A week after buying, it randomly started cutting off when sitting at a red light or just idling. Also the "service engine soon" light would come on and go off.

    About a month later the driver side dim headlight went out, we changed the bulb and it didn't fix it. My husband eventually got frustrated and knocked the crap out of it and it started working again. Every now and then we would have to hit it to make it come back on. Soon after, the passenger side side started doing it, sure enough we could hit it and it would start working again. Now the driver side dim light wont work at all and the passenger side light wont stay on, still though, the brights work. We have tried changing the bulbs.

    I haven't found anything to trigger this problem but at times the cruise will not work, it have fiddled with the blinker, bright/dim switch, and tried turning the car off and on.

    In the past month the face vents for the ac have stopped working, the feet and defroster still work fine. Two weeks ago, the battery shorted out. After changing the battery the radio stopped working for a few days, now my door speakers cut in and out constantly.

    My most currently developed problem; the transmission will not shift into third gear, we tried changing the fluid and filter, there were also very few shavings that had been dropped. It just rolled over to 90,000 miles so I would think it to be in good condition? There was no slipping before hand. I just started it and it wouldn't shift while on the highway. Could this be an electrical problem causing all of these problems or am I stuck with a lemon?
  • I had the same problem last week... Both head lights went out while driving. Luckily it was still light out... I managed to get home safely. My husband checked everything and didn't figure out the problem. I am going to take it in to Chevy but am terrified of the cost. We're you able to resolve this? Thank you!
  • the interior of my 2007 tb wont work. Lights, heat/ac, windows, raido, ect. I changed the battery and some fuses. what else can i do to get it working?
  • ngoodngood Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 2002 trailblazer. it had a faulty ignition switch which has been replaced four times in ten years and 78,000 miles.
    I noticed that when I turned off the ignition and removed the key that the red battery light stayed on. the key switch had some play in it so i made sure the switch was all the way in the off position and the light would go and that problem was solved. it would also do it with the key in if it wasn't all the way back in the off position. if it was overnite a jump would get it going without any memory loss to the radio so it apparently it wasn't discharging the battery completely. if I didn't drive it for a few days and the light was on it totally discharged the battery.
  • ngoodngood Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 2002 trailblazer. both low beams were out but the hi-beams both worked. i checked the bulbs and they were both good I gave in and took it to the dealer where they replaced the headlight relay which solved the problem.
  • I have a 2006 Trailblazer that has intermittent electrical issues. At random times all of the lights will dim, voltage on the battery will drop suddenly, and the fan for the heat or a/c will slow down. There are no problems with the radio except for the lights for the readout dimming, it will stay in tune perfectly. The car will not shut off and it actually corrects itself within about 10 seconds or if I hit the gas pedal. It's not something that is a constant issue such as the lights being dim all the time or going out completely. It usually happens when I'm at a complete stop though it has happened a few times while the car is in motion and my foot is nowhere near the brake pedal. It also seems to happen more on cold days though it's not limited to that, it has happened in the summer as well. The mechanics can't figure out what's going on because they can't duplicate it. The battery was replaced in January and has been tested, the alternator was also just replaced less than 2 weeks ago. It's not something that has been happening as long as I've owned the car. I had it for almost 2 years before this started happening. Does anyone have any ideas? This vehicle is driving me crazy!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,103
    hrd8759,

    Were the mechanics you were working with at one of our GM dealerships? If so, we're happy to follow up on any diagnostics they've done. Please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more information (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, a summary of the situation, and the name of your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I have an '02 TB that I just purchased last month with only 104k miles on it. I have the low beam headlight issue, my current remedy is just switching to high beams if the low beams shut off. The low beams usually work again within a few minutes or after a restart. My plan is to try testing the #45 and #46 fuses, and possibly replacing the headlight relay switch. The headlight issue is very intermittent, in fact its never happened to me, only while my husband was driving. However, a deeper concern, is when the weather is 35 degrees or colder, my remote start won't engage. I can hear clicking from the top of the engine and from my driver door panel near my power locks/window buttons. The driver door won't unlock with the clicker, only manually with the key. I can start the car with the key in the ignition and it runs fine, everything works except the power controls on the driver door. Those only work after the car has had about 10 or 15 minutes to warm up. Also, the power locks usually engage when the car is put in gear, however not if its cold and I'm having the power issue. I'm wondering if there is a wiring issue somewhere, maybe there are bear wires or wet wires, something that's making them sensitive to the cold?? If anyone has any suggestions, I'll take them. And after all the posts about the mechanics at the dealerships not knowing much about resolving issues for these TBs, I'm not sure I trust taking my car there.
  • My 2006 Trailblazer had ended up costing me more money than it's worth. Traded up to the 2006 because my 2003 ran amazingly well until about 150,000 miles and my family has always been a loyal GM family. They've since switched to Jeep and I'm understanding why. In the past 18 months, we've paid a GM dealer to diagnose and fix a faulty fuel pump, blower module, ignition switch, engine cylinders, replace batteries and the list goes on. My dash lights flicker intermittently and now that snow has begun to fall, the same cycle of problems begins again. Half of the times I've started my Trailblazer this week, the engine fails to turn over. The check engine light is on, once again diagnosed by Onstar as an engine misfire. Taking it to the dealership tomorrow with grim spirits because the last time the happened we were told the cylinder had "melted" itself and they could find no reason other than potential design flaws and had no suggestions as to how to prevent it from occurring again. Total bill to replace it that day: in excess of $3700. In addition, the feet and defroster units are working and you can hear the climate control trying to run but the upper units once again refuse to blow air. We were 1 month outside of the year warranty and GM has said that I have to pay the dealership $100+ for diagnosis before they'll keep a ticket open and further investigate the issue. Not to mention, my Trailblazer is involved in the recall where the window switches become a serious fire hazard in winter conditions and the dealership refuses to replace it until a demand for repairs is posted. GM says to wait to get the 2nd letter in the mail or talk to the dealership about replacing it if they have the parts. Dealership says I can pay them to do it now and wait for GM to reimburse me? I don't think so. Living in the Midwest amidst the recent waves of snow, the recommendation from GM to "park outdoors until the problem is resolved" is absolutely ridiculous. From what I've encountered, this car is ultimately the last one I will be purchasing from GM if for no reason other than the act that I have had it with the dealership and customer service passing the buck to each other. I need someone to solve the issue, if the dealership's service is to blame for these yearly replacements, they need to own it. If GM's faulty parts and overall craftsmanship is the issue, then be up front about it and simply tell me to ditch this vehicle now considering this is just the tip of the iceberg in the problems I've encountered. I will be taking all of the recommendations I've discovered through countless research to my dealership since I refuse to replace costly parts when they're just a band aid to a vehicle that needs a heart transplant. Perhaps GM needs to do more research and enlighten it's dealerships that charge a costly premium for working on our vehicles???
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,103
    alyssek,
    From your post, it looks as though you're already working with Customer Assistance. I want to apologize if that process has further frustrated you! Did you start that process with us via email or by calling the Customer Assistance Center?

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • bigfigbigfig Posts: 35
    Although this forum is for electrical, I would like to advise all about my problem with the SES(service engine soon) light staying on. There was a letter sent to owners of certain vehicles back in 2007 about ICV(inlet check valve) having a fracture of a weld on the fuel tank. My SES came on in Dec. 2011 and it was told to me that the gas cap needed changing of which I purchased a new cap. The light went away and then returned when I was advised that the code now showed, "Small EVAP code leak". I had a smoke test performed and was advised that there was a leak in the fuel tank. Not remembering about the letter sent 5 years ago, I had my mechanic replace the fuel tank at a cost of $981.32. I contacted GM and was informed that since
    a non-GM person performed the replacement and since the service occurred 2 months after the deadline for the Special Coverage Adjustment 07099 had expired and even though I had not surpassed the 150,000 miles no consideration could be extended for reimbursement. The Special Coverage Adjustment stated that service had to be performed within 10 years vehicle was placed into service or 150,000 miles whichever came first by GM dealer. Therefore if anyone has a problem with the SES light staying on it would be to your advantage to check and see if this letter was sent to you. I am very disappointed with GM and that they would not give any consideration to this problem.
  • I've read numerous posts now about electrical problems, all eerily similar to mine. I've had mine in 3 or 4x since driving it off the lot for power window and various bells & whistles lighting up on the dash panel. The last 2x I took it in was for "service StabiliTrak" message, and the dealer couldn't find anything wrong. I've also had to replace the right tail light bulb about every 3 months until they put in a new module for that. This past summer I received a recall for exhaust issues and the module went out on me a few days later. I took it in for that and also had them look at the StabiliTrak issue since it was prompting me to "service StabiliTrak" again. It's been fine now until just about a week before Christmas (2012). The power seat started acting weird; the window on the driver side would work well some days and then get stuck on others (usually when it was raining or there was a lot of moisture on the door); the "service StabiliTrak " message would scroll on my odometer panel and then StabiliTrak would turn itself off; the radio started to switch stations by itself; and the ALT guage would drop and my headlights would dim >50% whenever I used the driver side power window. I planned to take it in this Monday (01-07-13) to have it checked, but I didn't have to wait that long. Last night while driving home on the expressway, my headlights started flicking. I was having quite a bit of air noise (it was quite windy) so I hit the power up on my driver side window just to be sure it was up all the way. About 250ft later as I hit my exit, I had complete electrical failure on my dash panel except for odometer and 4-ways. I mean I had zip: no headlights, tail lights, radio, OnStar, Stabilitrak, AWD, no rear wiper, no power seat, no heated seat, no gauges except odometer, no automatic anything. I pulled off to the side and turned it off. I was able to restart it and found I had fog lamps, but nothing else. I could get high-beams on turn signal pull back only, so used 4-ways and pull back in order to make it the remaining 6 miles home. I took it in for service this morning and it drove like a tank without AWD and Stabilitrak, but was otherwise okay driving in sans electrical features. I was told by the dealer that it sounded just like the recall that's currently going on for earlier models. They also explained that GM hadn't ramped up manufacturing all the parts/modules needed for the solution yet, so who knows when I'll get my buggy back. Thank goodness for the extended warranty, otherwise I'd be out quite a bit of cash or wouldn't have kept my TB as long as I have. Oh, and the Traverse that I've had as a rental is a poor design all around. The cockpit is complicated with many features out of comfortable reach or that cause you to take your eyes off the road in order to use them. It's also way too noisy when driving +50mph, and whomever designed the high door panels and extreme blind spots should be fired and never allowed to design another vehicle in their lifetime!
  • Sorry to hear you're having the same problems. I find it ridiculous that the problems were so severe that GM issued a recall but doesn't seem to think it's important for a timely fix. If there are parts available, as my dealership said they have them in stock, I see no reason those of us needing a fix shouldn't have it covered immediately. My lights on my dash and various other electronics have been going out intermittently as well. I'm by no means an expert on automotive electronics, but as this seems to be a common problem in the vehicles under the recall, I can't help but wonder if the other electrical issues have some tie to the faulty door switch problem? Can anyone shed some light on how the vehicle's dashboard might be affected by a problem in the door switchboard? Is it possible that they could be related?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,103
    Glad to hear that the dealership is already on the trail to getting this resolved for you, lshudrn. Keep us posted on the progress there, and hopefully you're back in your car soon! If you should need anything in the meantime, we can be reached by email at socilamedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a brief recap of the situation for the agent responding to the email).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Well In my Trail blazer I have no air, and the gages that tell you how fast you are going and how much gas you have etc dont work. I will be driving down the road and all of a sudden my head lights will just turn off. I just recently got an oil change and drove to get my husband from work. I parked the car and when I tried to turn the car back on, nothing. I couldn't even get a jump. I took the battery to auto zone and I have fully charged battery. When you try and start the car it dosent even make a sound. Then the key gets stuck in the ignition. Now I don't know alot about cars, it kind of seems like an electrical problem to me. I have already replace some of the fuses, and that did nothing. I have yet to get it to a place for someone to take a look at it. If anyone has any advice that might know what would be wrong with it that would be great. Thanks Meghan
  • I'm posting here as I also have an '02 TB with similar electrical issues. This may not be specific to the cold weather question, however, after numerous freaky electrical "ghost in the machine" issues that come and go, ie. low beams out for several minutes then no problems afterwards. Complete dash failure where all gauges and speedo die sporadically, and crazy noises from the dash and door??? When the gauges returned to life, I finally noticed a low charging scenario from the analog charging gauge. Eventually this did trigger the idiot red battery dash light but only for momentary events. When looking to possibly replace the alternator, I checked the wiring connector and low and behold, while the physical connector looked ok at first glance, unplugging it uncovered that the wires had come apart within the connector... After completely dislodging existing wire within the connector and then re-connecting the remaining good wire, for a good electrical connection, I replaced the connector to the alternator itself and viola! Everything is working perfectly. I grant you, this has only been 2 days of a success story, but it had got to the point where the battery wasn't charging at all and now I have a constant 14.7 charge and all appears good in the world again. I know nothing about reported GM electrical recalls but so far, I'm very pleased with my find.
  • How did u fix the problem I have the same problem
  • Ok 2002 trailblazer changed stock radio out you have to plugs on back one side is your speakers ignition and power wires then theres another not sure what they are but I allowed them to touch just three wireby the way started smelling a burnt plastic spell quickly got them apart ok CD player is in n works put dash back together turn the ignition forward dash lights up headlights come on but when I turn to crank nothing happens front doors when key is in on position wont lock or move windows n my gages don't move either but when I go to back door panel it works odd here I tried jumping starter with key in on position by touch positive note negative with screwdriver nothing either checked fuses does this sound like a bad ignition? Please help...
  • doesnt the faceplate alone come of the dash in front of radio?i have a stuck cd. have tried to reset radio,pop-sickle trick
  • pickup41pickup41 Posts: 6
    My 03 TB with 99K miles runs great but just developed this problem in the last few months. Starts fine and as you are driving warning lights (seatbelt ,E brake service engine etc) come on and door ignition key chime rings 3/4 times then go off ! Then it happens again sometimes for long periods of time some times once or twice. Seems to happen more around town driving then on highway. And gas gauge , speedo go down and then come back up ! Anyone else encounter this problem and what was the fix ?
  • lpradettolpradetto Posts: 3
    You might start with replacing the ignition switch or the rear wiper unit. On our 2002 TB we had problems with the emergency flashers coming on when I would use the right turn signal, dome lights flashing on and off and other electrical oddities that stopped after having the ignition and the rear wiper gears replaced. They didn't really know which one actually stopped the problems, but I'm guessing it was the ignition.

    I also went through 4 batteries within 3 years because of an electrical drain. Many things were done that I can't remember and didn't help. Finally the speedometer started going wacky. The battery drain as well as the speedometer was fixed by having the dash nodule replaced. I'm sure that is not what it its called but it is the unit behind the dash that has all the gauges. We had to have two put in as the first replacement was just as defective as the original. The fourth new battery was destroyed by the replaced unit. Of course there was no compensation for the battery, they actually made noises about charging us for the second replacement.

    This was over a year ago and we haven't had any other electrical problems. Keeping fingers crossed!!!!

    Pretty sure we will never buy another Chevy. Dealership repair shops around here are a nightmare to deal with.

    LP
  • I got out of work last night, and my 2005 Trailblazer wouldn't start. Someone was kind enough to give me a jump, but that wasn't working. When he hooked up the cables, my dome light instantly came on, 10x brighter than It's ever been before. We tried for a few minutes, but the engine would only click. Finally, I called AAA. After he got there, he hooked up his cables and it only took a few minutes to get it started. I then realized that nothing was working. My dome light would not come on. My radio was off, my dash lights were off. Automatic locks and windows won't work, and I had no tail lights. All these had worked prior yo the original jump. I was told I had a bad battery, and that might affect it. All the fuses have been checked. I've tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. Still nothing. Do I simply need a new battery, or is it something else? I have no idea what to do here, and I need my vehicle ASAP.
  • you have some sort of a ground problem. also, look at the mega-fuse. it is located under the left rear seat. if its blown, you will not have ac, power seats, no radio, or any other electrical supply. look in the owners manuel for it also
  • It may not be the problem, but there is a mega fuse located undeer the left rear seat. it looks like a metal strip with a hole in each end, attached with a screw at each end. if the strip is 'burned' into, thats the problem. I had a simular problem....no seat adj. no fan [ac], no anything but engine did run.look in owners manuel for the location of the fuse if it isn't under the back seat. hope this helps. don't pay me if it doesn't. ha
  • I have this same problem. How did you end up fixing it?
  • I replaced the fuse [its a copper strip] It is under the left rear seat. That got my electronics all working again, but i still have the sporatic problem of "service engine soon" light coming on, and when that ciomes on, "reduced power" light comes on, then the TB will not run faster than 40 mph and the transmission is locked in third gear. this, I believe will never be fixed, because gm doesn't know how to fix this nightmare. One guy told me to disconnect the battery cables overnight, then the next morning, touch the neg. and pos bat. cables together, and that would reset all the computers. keep in mind, the battery has no role to play in this procedure. then reconnect the cables and see if that has helped anything. never short battery posts while connected to cables....it will fry the computers.
  • I feel for you on your expenses. I just refuse to do the diagnosis for them to throw parts at it like you have done. I promise you the cheapest thing for you to do is pay someone to haul that thing off, burn the title, and go to nissan or toyota, and get away from gm. they have proven thousands of times [to each customer, one at a time] that they do not plan to be honorable about these pieces of junk that they have built. I have talked to headquartwers, they listen, want to set you an appointment with your local dealer, but in no way hint to absorb any cost to help. we've all been taken for a ride, and no one from gm is driving! good luck
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