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Isuzu Trooper Engine and Performance Problems

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Comments

  • I have owned a 1999 trooper 3.5L for 2 years and it currently has 137k on it. My son took it out for a spin and brought it back with a VERY loud clacking noise coming from the engine. Any ideas? It has to be serious, my real question is - is this motor worth rebuilding? Are there any GM engines I might throw in this thing instead?
  • mc909mc909 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Question: What did you do about your trooper. We have a 99 trooper and we have been adding oil every week. No leaks.

    I am trying to figure out what it is and how to fix it.
  • Hello, i drive a 2001 Isuzu Trooper, with Automatic Transmission, and notice some minor slipping when either at a stop light, when i go to accelerate, or when I'm making a turn. While making the turn it feels like its in neutral and I'm pressing the gas, so i let the transmission correct the gear before accelerating more. I purchased the vehicle with 86,000 miles and have about 130,000 now, without any transmission service. I pray that a simple transmission drain and fill would be a quick fix. I don't want to have it flushed due to particle that may clog up the filter. I would appreciate any help with feedback or suggestions. Thank you.
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    I had the same problem at about 85,000 miles. It also was leaking transmission fluid. I took it to the dealer and it was only an inexpensive valve on the transmission. The cost was under $50.00 but covered under the warranty.
  • Thanks for the reply! I forgot to mention that my transmission fluid is leaking...so it could possibly be same issue just being a valve. I dropped it off at AAMCO this morning to have the fluid drained and refilled, not flushed. They tried talking me into having the Transmission dropped, taken apart and replacing a seal for about $1300.00 which i had no problem declining. Next stop will be the dealer...thanks again for the tip, definitely appreciate it.
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    The fluid is low and that is why it slips going around a turn. The same exact thing. Have you had the intake manifold changed? email me at dcoll@raisi.com
  • cindy19cindy19 Posts: 3
    I need help real bad i have 92 trooper dohc changed idler pulley and put new timing belt it started up but ran really rough went out to start it again but it will not turn over at all so what do i do? also dont know how to do the codes thing so please help me thats my only vechile!!!!!!!!!!!
  • I have an 89 trooper with over 200,000 miles on it. Runs strong but leaks oil behind the engine firewall. Its been that way for a while. I even need to replace the starter. I am taking the valve cover gaskets off and and having such a problem with them. I took them all off but the valve cover is so STUCK on there for some reason. Is there something I am missing as far as removing? The one I am having problems with currently is on the driver side. I really dont like that tight area between the firewall and the engine. I love that vehicle but really I need a truck. I dont mind an isuzu. This problem is so annoying to me and is there an easy solution? Also I need to remove that starter and is there an easy way to do it without removing the tire? I have a new solenoid for it actually. Anyway You can always mail me at josephnewmexico@yahoo.com and put 89 trooper on the subject if you have any direct questions or answers. Thank You!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    You can always mail me ...

    Sure, we could, but that would deprive our other members of valuable information and defeat the purpose of the Forums. Best to keep the conversation here. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • billmakbillmak Posts: 2
    I also owned an 89 Trooper which developed a leak but it turned out to be from the rear main seal. The truck had a manual transmission and I intended to get the seal replaced when I had the clutch rebuilt. However, I went and traded it in on a new 99 Trooper before I got the work done. If your leak is from the valve covers, it should be an easy enough fix. If it is from the rear main seal, you can continue driving but keep an eye on your oil level.
  • cindy19cindy19 Posts: 3
    I have a 92 Izusu trooper ls with doh need some kind of help if someone would put new idler pulley and new timeing belt on now runs really rough and misses when I put gas to it and also the idle is weired too could it be the speed sensor and the o2 senor? Also could someone help me find out how to do the codes? I really need help with this I posted before but no one responded. Please help me if you can. I would appreciate all the help I can get!!!!!!!!!! Thanks.
  • trooperdantrooperdan Posts: 3
    I had a mechanic work on my 01 Trooper, and the following day the engine idled very low and then sometimes very high. This lasted a few days....but then it stopped. After several days the idling corrected itself. IF not it may be your o2 sensor and maybe a fuel filter. Good luck
  • pglumpglum Posts: 1
    Hi. I am new to this forum. We have 2 troopers, a '91 and a'95. I have questions about the '95. We are the 2nd owners, it has about 190,000 miles on it. The oil indicator light (the one in the dash board that looks like an oil can) is on most of the time, but, the oil is fine (we have had it checked and there is not a problem); the check engine light comes periodically, mostly in warm weather, although it came on this past week during a cool day, and we only had driven it about 4 miles. Last week the transmission was not working right, but the transmission light did not come on right away but finally did come pm. The fluid was fine. We did not drive it for a couple of days, and then went to start it and it worked fine. Is this a problem others have had and what did you do about it? By problem, it seems there is a phantom problem.
  • bigskinnybigskinny Posts: 2
    My Trooper's engine (3.2) is recently rebuilt. I replaced all vacuum lines, PVC valve, etc. When I purchased the vehicle the O2 censor was not connected so I replaced it this weekend. It has new plugs and plug wires. I assumed the thing was running in a default mode prior to all this work because it was slow to start, idled fine, but didn't get the mileage I thought it should. Now, with all this work done the idle speed is high. Upon cold starting the vehicle runs at a normal increased RPM. When warm it doesn't change. When driving and the clutch is pushed in the engine will idle up to 2000 RPM then down to 1500 then back up to 2000 RPM, continuing the cycle until I stop rolling. When I come to a complete stop with the clutch in the engine will quickly slow to 1200 RPM. Any thoughts?
  • ghost329ghost329 Posts: 9
    hey i was scrolling through the messages looking for prices for a trooper engine for my 99. my trooper did the exact in may of 2007. i was told it needed to be rebuilt.
    from reading other messages it seems this could of been from low oil, apprently there aremany people writing posts saying they are having to put oil in every 1000 miles which is ridiculous but none the less very well could be the problem. i had the oil changed 2000 miles prior to it going out and they said it was due to low oil.
    So get it checked out.
    Now i was wondering if u did change the engine already and if u could give me a good price on which you paid for it and labor or the estimates you got.
  • I have a 1990 Trooper with a 2.8 liter v-6 engine. My external oil cooler lines are leaking and I want to replace them. Does anyone have any outlets that sell the replacement hoses? I am in San Diego, Ca and no one around here can help. Even a company that makes and repairs hoses won't help.
  • nater1nater1 Posts: 2
    i going to call tomorrow to store here in P.R.,(Isuzu of P.R., inc.) let you know the price, if they have it. :)
  • uralnyuralny Posts: 3
    just bought trooper, has 79,000 original miles. starts fine, idles fine, but sputters when put under a load(driving). will rev fine when sitting though. any ideas? thanks, scott
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    Hum...could be partially clogged catyltic converter? Autozone and some of the other parts places can read the codes if the computer is seeing errors, might try that and see if anything is showing.
  • uralnyuralny Posts: 3
    the dash light isnt on so auto zone said it wouldnt help to do it. i'm gonna try new plugs and wires, maybe it'll help. also time for water pump and timing belt. thanks for your reply, anyone else?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    I'm not sure if the cat converter will always put on the CEL. Anyone know? My Trooper is an '00 so the computer stuff is probably different.

    Mine is showing a CEL light and Azone said it show the EGR valve. Well, mileage and performance are good. I will pull it and clean it and the EGR tube and see if that helps IF it ever cools off a little. I did finally find a brush to use on the EGR tube at a local hardware store...it was labeled as a percolator brush, I guess to clean an old coffee percolator tube, about 10-12 inches long and 1/2 inch or so in diameter...perfect for that tube.

    Good luck anyway.
  • uralnyuralny Posts: 3
    well, the plugs and wires did the job, running like a top now. gotta do some greasing though, it squeeks alot while turning and on bumpy roads.
  • I've got the exact same problem and it's a stumper. To read the codes you need to locate the white connector underneath the dashboard next to the center console. Make sure the ignition is all the way off then take a wire andplace one end in each of the outer terminals. Turn the key on but dont start it. look at the check engine light and count the number of times it flashes. it should start out with 1 then a pause then 2. this should repeat 3x then it should start flashing any other codes that it has stored. write them down and then you can always go up to autozone.com and they have the online repair manual which has the description of what the codes are.
  • Please help ! Just bought and drove 7-8 miles lost all power and shut off. ?. Changed filters and fuel.
    What can I try. I don't know much at all about Diesel but can't afford a Mechanic.

    What engines will fit ? ie... Toyota 22 R ? Toyota T-100 ? ? ?
    Thanks for any advice Mike
  • While it is not a Subaru ( a diesel is a diesel in that they all work the same way) my diesel Rabbit did the same thing in a parking lot one night.

    On top of your diesel injection pump there should be a single fine electrical wire going to a fuel cut off switch. Now either that wire has either broken off, or in some cases, the plastic covering has cracked off so it grounds against the fuel pump. This is a "hot" wire. It cannot come into contact with ground. It connects to a small nut which is the solenoid relay to cut off the fuel(otherwise your diesel will never shut off). You in fact can run a wire from the positive post of the battery to the solenoid and connect it that way to see if the solenoid is good - and then try to start the car. It should start if the solenoid is good. In order to shut off the car you need to disconnect the wire from the battery.
    This tells you the solenoid is good; so the problem is electrical and could go back as far as the ignition switch. I do not believe you would have a fuse inline but that is a matter to check in a repair manual.
  • j24eannej24eanne Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 1996 Trooper 3.2 automatic that has had a never ending battle with engine racing. Every once in a while it will operate at a normal RPM, but usually it is way over 2. It will go down the road at 30 MPH with no foot on the gas. It has had countless parts replaced including the computer. It has ice cold air, and the heater core is now bypassed. However, every once in a while it will start blowing humid and hot and then proceed to overheat. Sometimes going down the road the gas will spit/skip a little. Sometimes it really doesn't want to start and sounds like it's flooded. All of these problems are intermittent, but I have to wonder if they are somehow all connected. Any ideas of one part that would pertain to all?
    On a separate note (I think) the transmission does not shift smoothly and has never had much power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • filibogadofilibogado Posts: 1
    My Trooper has 140,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine and transmission powertrain started shaking and shivering when I accelerate, especially after starting cold. It seems to me that the engine and transmission components are tugging at each other, so I get this rumbling, hesitating response from the drive train, much like riding a buckling bronco. I can also see the engine rpm fluctuating within a narrow range around 850-950 rpm while stopped with the automatic transmission engaged in drive position. Once I step on the gas, the hesitation and push-pull among the engine and train components start again, and the engine threatens to die but has never done so. In sum, I would describe it as a combination of rough idling and shifting that has to be experienced first hand because its hard to describe in words.

    I have topped up the transmission fluid but that did not help. My next step is to drain the fluid and replace the filter, or have the engine tuned up, or both.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Fil
  • Has anyone swapped engines in a '95 Trooper...i.e. taken the isuzu out and put another brand of engine in the trooper?
  • Which one is more efficient? What's the advantage of DOHC?
  • rshanershane Posts: 1
    My Trooper has 187k on her, and has started the same shuddering/sputtering when under load, as described by "filibogado" in the below post:

    "Recently, the engine and transmission powertrain started shaking and shivering when I accelerate, especially after starting cold. It seems to me that the engine and transmission components are tugging at each other, so I get this rumbling, hesitating response from the drive train, much like riding a buckling bronco. I can also see the engine rpm fluctuating within a narrow range around 850-950 rpm while stopped with the automatic transmission engaged in drive position. Once I step on the gas, the hesitation and push-pull among the engine and train components start again, and the engine threatens to die but has never done so. In sum, I would describe it as a combination of rough idling and shifting that has to be experienced first hand because its hard to describe in words.

    I have topped up the transmission fluid but that did not help. My next step is to drain the fluid and replace the filter, or have the engine tuned up, or both."



    Anyone have any suggestions??

    Thanks for any input.

    Regards,

    Shane
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