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Isuzu Trooper Engine and Performance Problems

Hi
I have an isuzu 4jb1 tdi engine fitted on a landrover. Can any one tell me what is its bhp output. Once I had to change the head gasket because it was leaking a little coolant liquid, but after a while coolant is stil leaking again. however it seems that all of a suuden coolant liquid stopped leaking and now oil is leaking. Is this a normal problem. It also blows some oil from the valve cover. would realy appreciate any help pls.
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Comments

  • salvessalves Posts: 7
    I own a 2001 3.5 4x4 Trooper and it looks like the #1 cylinder rod bearing has spun. The vehicle has 83,000 miles on it. Does anyone know if the problem can be solved by replacing the crank shaft and bearings or does one have to rebuild or replace the engine?
    Has anyone else had this problem and actually fixed it?

    I am leaning toward replacing the crank shaft and bearings or trying to sell the thing for what ever I can get for it.
  • shady12shady12 Posts: 2
    I've had a 92 Trooper, automatic, V6, 4x4, with 155k miles for almost 2 years now. I haven't been able to take it on out of town trips. Before I bought it, I took it to a mechanic that is a friend of the family so I trusted him. He said the only issue was a cracked valve cover gasket.

    It seems to run fine except for the engine sometimes knocking. And a lot of the times when I come to a stop and am slowing down to a stop light or something, it won't idle smooth, it will kind of do a tiny rev a few times until I'm stopped. If I drive for awhile the check engine light usually comes on, then will turn off if I brake and come almost to a stop. The time I did try to take it on the highway, I made it no more than 20 miles out before there were poofs of black smoke coming out of the exhaust, and all the sudden I couldn't maintain speed even with gas pedal down, and I stopped and it was knocking like crazy, doing the little rev thing, and barely run. So of course I turned around and went home. I've never had a problem with it otherwise as far as stalling out or dying or anything. I think it stalled out once at an intersection within a couple months of buying it, but that's it. Never had an issue with in-town driving.

    Does this sound like nothing but what that guy told me when I got it, a cracked valve gasket cover? Something else? If you may be able to diagnose it based on what I've set, what sort of cost we talking about for repair? Thanks!
  • Wow, sounds familiar...My Trooper just crapped out on me (88,000 miles)this past weekend. Exact same problem as yours. What did you end up doing? Did you find someone to fix the bearing, or did you find it too expensive to justify the repair????
  • Last week I replaced the intake gaskets on my 1991 Isuzu Trooper. It has the 2.8 liter V-6. Upon reading the instructions with the gasket set it said DO NOT CUT the gaskets. So I removed the pushrods (keeping them in order because the book said there are two different lengths and, I was very maticulous to get them back in the right order...) and upon adjusting the valve lash which, 1 and 1/2 turns past lash is what I did, when I tried to start the engine all it would do was crank and backfire out the exhaust (LOUD, like a shotgun). Upon backing them all off a full turn, the engine started, and it does run okay, now that I've set the timing, but after it is hot and I shut it off, it won't restart... only cranks. If I hold it to the floor (fuel injected - throttle body) like it is flooded, it will start, but chugs a little bit until it gets going. As far as starting cold, it starts right up in the mornings. Is this an issue with the valves not run according to the book? I thought maybe it was a misprint in Chilton's but when I also viewed it in a GM repair manual (for the 2.8 since it is similar) it also states 1 and 1/2 turns past lash. Should I re-do the lash and go 1 and 1/2 turns again and see what happens? I don't want to hurt the engine or valve train since it has over 200k on it and was running good before, just leaking oil out the back of the intake and around the distributor shaft.
  • Try the old fashion way. Warm up the engine, remove valve covers and loosen lifters, with the engine running, until you hear tapping, tighten until tapping stops and go a quarter turn tighter. Always worked on the John Deere at home.
  • mt33mt33 Posts: 1
    My engine blew 2200 miles after I had an oil change. no warning lights. no engine temp warnings. nothing. my %&*#@%#$* trooper had 74000 miles on it. I was the second owner so there was no warranty. i think if there are enough cases of this happening... it seems WAY TOO COMMON already there is a case that it is a defective product and we can get a class action or lawsuit together to compensate us on this piece of crap, cylindar warping, oil burning P.O.S. 3.5 L V6 Isuzu engine.

    Please let me know if there are more of us out there... no way should an engine blow with that few miles on it after an oil change.

    thanks,
    MT33
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 837
    How was your oil level before it blew? Did you check the oil during the 2200 miles after the oil change? I am having to add oil to my '00 Trooper between 1200 & 1500 miles which according to info posted before is okay by ISUZU. Perhaps the oil pump failed suddenly. Sorry for your loss.
  • Very interesting - I am in the process of buying a 2002 Trooper and when I had the vehicle checked out the oil level was very low. No sign of leaks and pressure gauge was apparently reading fine. Will have to periodically check the oil level as suggested.
    Are the powertrain warrantees (about which such a big deal is made) not transferable?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    All car manufacturers require you to check your oil every 1k miles and it can be down 1 quart. Very few motors have blown on these vehicles actually and the 3.5 is a good motor if you check the oil.

    -mike
  • I have a 91 trooper II 4wd with the 2.6 4 cylinder that is great wen its not driving me crazy! To start it every day I have to spray starting fluid in to the intake or it will not fire at all! After it has run for a while it will start up without the starting fluid! Also wen driving down the road at times it will cough and sputter sometimes even back fire! I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter! None of wich seams to help much! It did have an exaust leak which I also fixed! That seamed to help a little but again not much! Also lately it has started making a kind of grinding noise in the tranfer case! any suggestions would be greatly appriciated!
  • gahlgahl Posts: 7
    sounds like an air intake leak - have you checked the timing?
  • Yes that was one of the first things I did wen I got it! The timing is right on the money! Air intake leak? I dont know! How would I check?"
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    The 2.8 was known to get a gasket leak between the TBI and the manifold. If you spray wd40 around the base of the TBI while it is running and the idle changes then you can expect there to be a bad gasket. Same applies for the intake manifold to head gasket, although I had not heard of them being a problem. Wouldn't hurt to spray them as well. DO NOT use a flammable spray, WD40 works and won't burn you or your engine up.
    Hydraulic lifters normally don't need adjustment...the 2.8 is a GM engine. Isuzu did spec some diff. parts (gasket quality, etc) but main components are the same.
    You can actually adjust the lifters on the 2.8 with the engine running, and normally you take the slack out (warm engine) and then tighten the rocker nut a little more.
    I can't speak to how much, but if the engine has a lot of miles, then oil pressure may be a little lower and a turn and a half would be about right, but I would not do any more than that, my opinion! While there, inspect each rocker arm where it contacts the valve spring to be sure it is not worn through. Had a couple that wore there too. Usually fairly obvious once you look. Bad heat treat, I think.
    good luck
  • Does all that aply to the 2.6 4 cylinder? Mine has the 2.6 4 cylinder not the 2.8 v 6!
  • Hi all. :( I have a 89 Trooper with a 2.6 4/cyl, it is fuel injected and on cold start acts like a carbed version with the choke stuck shut, lots of black smoke and 10 minutes of chugging. after that it runs fine. I am also getting about 9 mpg around town "lol" this is my second Trooper but my first with fuel injection so any ideas will help. The truck has a new head, and tune up includeing wire ,rotor, cap, and all filters.
  • as far as the black smoke and chugging I really couldn't tell you! As far as mileage My brother in-law had an 89 trooper with the injected 2.6 that ran like a champ! and he only got ten mpg around town! Mine is a 91 also 2.6 and I'm only getting at best 13 mpg around town! But mine does have issues! I,m not sure but I dont think the mpg will get much better! If you take into account the weight of the trooper! according to the vin tag just inside the drivers door mine out weighs my friends 1973 jeep grand wagoneer! ITS A TANK!
  • Hey thanks for the info, my 86, "carbed" got decent mileage around town , but it was a slug, I'll pay for the gasoline for the extra performance. The cold start thing is a real problem though and I hate to just throw parts at it until I figure it out. These early Troopers are addicting probably the best all around SUV of its time. thanks for the info, and thanks to all for a great forum for a great vehicle.
  • we have a 94 trooper and it is stuck in park and it is in front of our driveway and I need it to be in the driveway so we can park our other car in our driveway, does anyone have any suggestions? anything helps thank you
  • we have a 94 trooper and the oil is low every time we check it and we get the normal oil changes, when it says on the sticker and it is always low before we get it changed we have to put about 4 quarts in before we have it changed and there is no leak, and the gauge says it is fine, but it is not
  • If its 4 wheel drive put the transfer case into neutral! Then you can push it any where! Be sure to put the transfer case back into gear or it may roll away on you!!
  • apetoapeto Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an Isuzu Trooper 1992, 3.2l DHOC, and its not running well, its like it doesn't have power, cranks right but I had to reduce spark plug gap because it was like misfiring.
    Could it be the ignition coil? i checked them with a multimeter and i read 6.4 k ohm, they are ac delco d555. Its that right? i don't know the exactly value. Could it be a sensor problem?
    Thanks in advance.
  • My baby is not running well. First let me say I have a 1996 Trooper 2.4 V6. In the morning it will start, run and even drive around. But with in a short time it will not go over 40, then 25 to a point where it chug along to a stop. If I pop it into neutral it will stay running but barely. The "check engine" light is flashing on and off too.
    I have had a few suggestions from friends; catalytic converter?
    fuel pump?
    It has a GM engine. kidding I love my trooper, it is my 3rd one.
    Transmission?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi and welcome to the forum.
    I don't believe that the engine you have is a GM unless someone put it in, as the stock engine in the trooper in 1996 was an Isuzu 3.2 or 3.5...I am not sure when the breakpoint for the difference was. Regardless, it is always best to go back to basics first......your CEL is telling you there is a code set so it should be read. I think you have an OBDll compliant ECM, so getting it read should lead you to the prime suspects. I would definitely change the fuel filter and check the fuel pressure and pump function first, given your symptoms. There is also a filter sock on the pump that could clog, so getting a fuel pressure reading is also important. If you are used to working on cars, you can jumper the fuel pump relay to keep it on so you can verify it is working properly.
    Catalytic converters are expensive, and O2 sensors are also important for both emissions and the driveability of the trooper. Your CEL should help there too.
    Hope this helps. If you have a different motor, then of course this info may not necessarily apply, but generally should be similar.
    Good luck. On guys opinion.
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    Will idle rough or stall when in drive and brake released. P0 codes first for the EGR valve. I cleaned it. It was sticking. Next P0 codes too lean banks 1 and 2. Cleaned Mass air flow sensor. Too lean codes and too rich. Replaced fuel filter. Same codes and same symptoms. Replaced Mass Air FLow Sensor with aftermarket. Same symptoms. Check engine light has not come back on yet. But literally just did the MAFS replacement. I did not disconnect the battery for a period of time. My son will do that tonight. Any thoughts? 01 trooper 3.5l
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    You definitely need(ed) to clear the codes to get a reliable idea if the changes you made had any effect. The codes are stored and only cleared by the computer when certain things happen, like starting the car 5 or 10 times without the problem reoccurring. Even then, the light may go off, but the code itself is stored. Clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time or pulling the ecm fuse (both alternatives to clearing with a scanner) is really the only way to be sure you are not just seeing the old saved codes. HTH. One guys opinion.
  • head gasket leaked (engine oil/gas in coolant). this was its "second" engine :sick: . this engine always checked "full" :) for oil. i checked it every ~2.5k miles & had it changed every 5kmiles. this engine only had 87k on the block :lemon: . estimated repair for head gasket was $1800 without machine shop work, $3000 with machine shop work, if needed. also need new cv boots, $600 (front end). sold for $1800. :sick:
    at 65k miles, 5k past 60k powertrain warranty, original engine threw a rod. dealer gave me new short block ($3500 value) and paid for 1/2 labor, with me paying $700 for labor :) . this engine would go through a quart of oil every 3k miles - i would add a quart between every oil change, which i had done every 5k miles.

    bought a 2004 4X4 Navigator Ultimate with 39k miles (it came with a premium lincoln extended warranty, 72mo/75k miles) for $23k ($25k out the door). so far, there's been about ~$7-8k in repairs under the warranty
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    Checked the intake manifold gasket and it is leakeing. On passenger side. You can hear the hissing and when sprayed with carb cleaner, the engine revs. Thank you all for all of you info. This site saved me a lot of time and money
  • What kinf of fluid does a manual transmission use in a 1987 trooper gas engine? plz let me know
  • I have been having a ongoing problem with the cel blinking for a variety of reasons, i have fixed all but a misfire in # 4 cyclinder. after replacing the coil pack and the spark plug to no avail, i have decided to move the fuel injectors around to see if i can isolate the problem. Currently i have the fuel rail released but not completely out and i am trying to swap out a couple of injectors. Does any know how they detatch from the fuel rail? I've removed the clip, but i still can't get the injector to seperate. Any help at this time would be helpful.
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