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Isuzu Trooper Engine and Performance Problems



  • If its 4 wheel drive put the transfer case into neutral! Then you can push it any where! Be sure to put the transfer case back into gear or it may roll away on you!!
  • apetoapeto Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an Isuzu Trooper 1992, 3.2l DHOC, and its not running well, its like it doesn't have power, cranks right but I had to reduce spark plug gap because it was like misfiring.
    Could it be the ignition coil? i checked them with a multimeter and i read 6.4 k ohm, they are ac delco d555. Its that right? i don't know the exactly value. Could it be a sensor problem?
    Thanks in advance.
  • My baby is not running well. First let me say I have a 1996 Trooper 2.4 V6. In the morning it will start, run and even drive around. But with in a short time it will not go over 40, then 25 to a point where it chug along to a stop. If I pop it into neutral it will stay running but barely. The "check engine" light is flashing on and off too.
    I have had a few suggestions from friends; catalytic converter?
    fuel pump?
    It has a GM engine. kidding I love my trooper, it is my 3rd one.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi and welcome to the forum.
    I don't believe that the engine you have is a GM unless someone put it in, as the stock engine in the trooper in 1996 was an Isuzu 3.2 or 3.5...I am not sure when the breakpoint for the difference was. Regardless, it is always best to go back to basics first......your CEL is telling you there is a code set so it should be read. I think you have an OBDll compliant ECM, so getting it read should lead you to the prime suspects. I would definitely change the fuel filter and check the fuel pressure and pump function first, given your symptoms. There is also a filter sock on the pump that could clog, so getting a fuel pressure reading is also important. If you are used to working on cars, you can jumper the fuel pump relay to keep it on so you can verify it is working properly.
    Catalytic converters are expensive, and O2 sensors are also important for both emissions and the driveability of the trooper. Your CEL should help there too.
    Hope this helps. If you have a different motor, then of course this info may not necessarily apply, but generally should be similar.
    Good luck. On guys opinion.
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    Will idle rough or stall when in drive and brake released. P0 codes first for the EGR valve. I cleaned it. It was sticking. Next P0 codes too lean banks 1 and 2. Cleaned Mass air flow sensor. Too lean codes and too rich. Replaced fuel filter. Same codes and same symptoms. Replaced Mass Air FLow Sensor with aftermarket. Same symptoms. Check engine light has not come back on yet. But literally just did the MAFS replacement. I did not disconnect the battery for a period of time. My son will do that tonight. Any thoughts? 01 trooper 3.5l
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    You definitely need(ed) to clear the codes to get a reliable idea if the changes you made had any effect. The codes are stored and only cleared by the computer when certain things happen, like starting the car 5 or 10 times without the problem reoccurring. Even then, the light may go off, but the code itself is stored. Clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time or pulling the ecm fuse (both alternatives to clearing with a scanner) is really the only way to be sure you are not just seeing the old saved codes. HTH. One guys opinion.
  • head gasket leaked (engine oil/gas in coolant). this was its "second" engine :sick: . this engine always checked "full" :) for oil. i checked it every ~2.5k miles & had it changed every 5kmiles. this engine only had 87k on the block :lemon: . estimated repair for head gasket was $1800 without machine shop work, $3000 with machine shop work, if needed. also need new cv boots, $600 (front end). sold for $1800. :sick:
    at 65k miles, 5k past 60k powertrain warranty, original engine threw a rod. dealer gave me new short block ($3500 value) and paid for 1/2 labor, with me paying $700 for labor :) . this engine would go through a quart of oil every 3k miles - i would add a quart between every oil change, which i had done every 5k miles.

    bought a 2004 4X4 Navigator Ultimate with 39k miles (it came with a premium lincoln extended warranty, 72mo/75k miles) for $23k ($25k out the door). so far, there's been about ~$7-8k in repairs under the warranty
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    Checked the intake manifold gasket and it is leakeing. On passenger side. You can hear the hissing and when sprayed with carb cleaner, the engine revs. Thank you all for all of you info. This site saved me a lot of time and money
  • What kinf of fluid does a manual transmission use in a 1987 trooper gas engine? plz let me know
  • I have been having a ongoing problem with the cel blinking for a variety of reasons, i have fixed all but a misfire in # 4 cyclinder. after replacing the coil pack and the spark plug to no avail, i have decided to move the fuel injectors around to see if i can isolate the problem. Currently i have the fuel rail released but not completely out and i am trying to swap out a couple of injectors. Does any know how they detatch from the fuel rail? I've removed the clip, but i still can't get the injector to seperate. Any help at this time would be helpful.
  • I have owned a 1999 trooper 3.5L for 2 years and it currently has 137k on it. My son took it out for a spin and brought it back with a VERY loud clacking noise coming from the engine. Any ideas? It has to be serious, my real question is - is this motor worth rebuilding? Are there any GM engines I might throw in this thing instead?
  • mc909mc909 Posts: 1

    Question: What did you do about your trooper. We have a 99 trooper and we have been adding oil every week. No leaks.

    I am trying to figure out what it is and how to fix it.
  • Hello, i drive a 2001 Isuzu Trooper, with Automatic Transmission, and notice some minor slipping when either at a stop light, when i go to accelerate, or when I'm making a turn. While making the turn it feels like its in neutral and I'm pressing the gas, so i let the transmission correct the gear before accelerating more. I purchased the vehicle with 86,000 miles and have about 130,000 now, without any transmission service. I pray that a simple transmission drain and fill would be a quick fix. I don't want to have it flushed due to particle that may clog up the filter. I would appreciate any help with feedback or suggestions. Thank you.
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    I had the same problem at about 85,000 miles. It also was leaking transmission fluid. I took it to the dealer and it was only an inexpensive valve on the transmission. The cost was under $50.00 but covered under the warranty.
  • Thanks for the reply! I forgot to mention that my transmission fluid is it could possibly be same issue just being a valve. I dropped it off at AAMCO this morning to have the fluid drained and refilled, not flushed. They tried talking me into having the Transmission dropped, taken apart and replacing a seal for about $1300.00 which i had no problem declining. Next stop will be the dealer...thanks again for the tip, definitely appreciate it.
  • dcolldcoll Posts: 5
    The fluid is low and that is why it slips going around a turn. The same exact thing. Have you had the intake manifold changed? email me at
  • cindy19cindy19 Posts: 3
    I need help real bad i have 92 trooper dohc changed idler pulley and put new timing belt it started up but ran really rough went out to start it again but it will not turn over at all so what do i do? also dont know how to do the codes thing so please help me thats my only vechile!!!!!!!!!!!
  • I have an 89 trooper with over 200,000 miles on it. Runs strong but leaks oil behind the engine firewall. Its been that way for a while. I even need to replace the starter. I am taking the valve cover gaskets off and and having such a problem with them. I took them all off but the valve cover is so STUCK on there for some reason. Is there something I am missing as far as removing? The one I am having problems with currently is on the driver side. I really dont like that tight area between the firewall and the engine. I love that vehicle but really I need a truck. I dont mind an isuzu. This problem is so annoying to me and is there an easy solution? Also I need to remove that starter and is there an easy way to do it without removing the tire? I have a new solenoid for it actually. Anyway You can always mail me at and put 89 trooper on the subject if you have any direct questions or answers. Thank You!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You can always mail me ...

    Sure, we could, but that would deprive our other members of valuable information and defeat the purpose of the Forums. Best to keep the conversation here. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • billmakbillmak Posts: 2
    I also owned an 89 Trooper which developed a leak but it turned out to be from the rear main seal. The truck had a manual transmission and I intended to get the seal replaced when I had the clutch rebuilt. However, I went and traded it in on a new 99 Trooper before I got the work done. If your leak is from the valve covers, it should be an easy enough fix. If it is from the rear main seal, you can continue driving but keep an eye on your oil level.
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