Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volkswagen Jetta Brakes and Rotors



  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    In that case I would get it checked out.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited April 2011
    My rotors occasionally get a little "surface rust" on them. I often get surface-rust after my car sits for a weekend in the rain. (Especailly after driving on salty roads in the winter.) Some (safely executed) panic stops tends to clean them up nicely. It is also good for the brakepads and rotors to be exersized once in a while.

    HOWEVER: On a brand-new car, it takes at LEAST 500 miles of driving to season the rotors. A very thin layer of brake-pad material gets imbedded into the surface of the rotors. (This is called "seasoning" the rotors) After several miles of seasoning, it is best to ""let the smoke out" and perform several back-to-back panic stops to get the pads smoking-hot. (This is called "bedding" the pads) ... then park car overnight and allow COMPLETE cooldown of the brakes. This aligns the molecular grain within the rotor which will help reduce the chance of warping.

    After that exersize, (seasoning and bedding) your brakes should provide many years of trouble-free service.

    Also.... never EVER touch the rotors wth your fingers. The oils from your skin can impede braking-performance.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    edited April 2011
    I just had my brakes checked on my 09 TDI as they are the original pads. The fronts have 80% remaining, and the rears are at 40%. Not bad for just over 78K :)
  • With my 2004 VW Diesel Jetta Wagon my rear brake pads had to be replaced at 170,000 miles. The repair garage said my front pads had about 10,000 miles left on them. Now, at 190,000 miles, the warning light went on in my car indicating the front pads now have to be replaced. Obvously, most of my driving is longer distance, and I live in southern New Jersey where there are virtually no hills, and I'm light on the pedal and stopping and starting (e.g., I'm getting 90,000 to 100,000 miles out of tires, whether they're Michelin or Cooper). I'm not sure what all this means, but thought it of value to share. For me, the brake wear indicator light should probably be attached to the rear brakes but this obviously isn't true for most people's driving habits. I closely monitor tire air pressure, which certainly helps with tire mileage.
    I'm guessing that my driving habits and the flat terrain of South Jersey are mostly to credit for the low wear of my brake pads. My Toyota Corolla, which was totalled in an accident at 160,000 miles, had its original brake pads front and rear. And this Corolla had significant local mileage on it since it was used for half its life by wife for shorter trips.
  • Hello Handiman!,
    This question is not related to brakes , but VW in general. If you have time can you kindly answer?

    I have a 2008 VW JEtta 2.5 S ( When i got it , i t had 27500 miles on it).
    Now, 31k miles.

    1) I got it in summer. Now in the winter i see that it is emiting too much smoke compared to other cars on road. Do you think of anything that could be wrong? Emission, engine tuning etc

    2) Also when i drive like around 40mph, i hear a strange rattling noise, itook it to the VW dealer as is under warranty. He said he checked with mikes and doesnt hear sound, It might be because, the rear tyres are of different brand. And once you drive 5k miles, both become even.
    But i have driven 3k miles since and the sound stll exists.

    It would be great if you could give ur expert comments!.

  • jim532jim532 Posts: 1
    I had a similar issue with a 2007 Jetta Wolfsburg 2.5. The rear caliper pistons have to be turned in with a caliper tool. I used a snap on tool that I borrowed from a mechanic. You cannot simply compress the rear caliper pistons in. They must be turned in clockwise. I don't think it's the emergency brake adjustment although you should be sure to see that the pads move freely within the caliper pins. I used VW factory pads with all new hardware after 40,000 miles and had to replace the rear pads a second time at 24,000 miles. The second brake pads were manufactured by TRW. The VW pads are $99 retail and $65 wholesale. The TRW pads were $37 wholesale. Be sure to check the rear brakes regularly so you won't have to replace rotors too. I hope the TRW pads don't leave as much brake dust on the rear alloy wheels. I've heard that some people have experienced similar problems with Audi A-4s.
  • Smoke or steam? My 2.5 emits a lot of steam in the winter and always has. If it's definitely smoke then what color is it? Black or grey? Black is fuel, grey is oil.

    As for the rattle. Does it seem to be coming from the trunk? I had a rattle that was driving me nuts and the dealer also said they couldn't duplicate it (BS...heard it every time I hit the slightest bump). I finally found a VW engineer that told me the rear brake adjusters are tied to the e-brake. He told me to set the e-brake every time I parked the car. I did and about a week later the rattle was gone and has never returned. Might want to give that a try.
Sign In or Register to comment.