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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • I have a 99 Mazda 626 with 101k miles on it. I love my car and it runs like a tank. The check engine light has been on for 8 months and I have had three diagnostics and no one can figure out what is wrong but it does not run funny at all. My REAL problem is that I need struts. I don't think they have ever been replaced. I have 16 months until this car is paid off and I do not have $450 for the repair. What happens when you don't fix them. What if I just let them go like that? There is no noise at all but I hit hard. I am afraid of an accident or something but I would have to borrow the money from my friends or family to fix it!

    Help :confuse:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I just ordered a pair of rear swaybar links. Will install them next week when they come in. Hopefully, this will resolve the issue. It has not been that bad - mostly when the car is cold and it seems to be less pronounced now.

    Will let everybody know if I see any difference after I instlal the new links.

    Also, the creaking noise that seems to be coming from the left front strut upper mount, is not as pronounced. i may let that one go until I replace the struts, along with the upper mounts.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I still have the original struts at 144K. I do not think that they are bad yet, but if I keep the car, I will probably replace them in the next year or so.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Has anyone had to replace the two front airbags on a '98-02 vintage 626 and if so how much did it cost? My son had an accident in my '00 626 yesterday and it was enough to blow both bags (DPS officer said they blow at 12 mph), but fortunately no one was hurt and my son said the damage to the car doesn't seem to be that bad (I haven't seen it yet, I was out of town). I am hoping the damage is not enough to total the car--it doesn't take much these days. :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Weak struts might cause a loss of control in certain extreme situations, but probably the only thing you have eto worry about is damage to the car's suspension, like ball joints, tie rods, etc. I don't see why you can't find a deal for even cheap struts (like KYB or Gabriel) at one of the discount chains. They won't last too long but they will get you through your loan.


  • lotsofemslotsofems Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help. Where can I find cheap struts. The cheapest ones I found were for between $60 and $70 each. This is $240 plus $200 for the installation. Am I being lied to? :sick:
  • anthojanthoj Posts: 1

    A week ago my 95' mazda 626 started having problems for the millionth time. At first, when I started the car, everything seemed fine and I was driving around town happily. Before I knew it, the car wouldn't rev up when I step on the gas. Or rather the rpm will go up and drops as I stepped on the gas. After that, the engine dies and won't start. I thought this was a problem with the fuel pump or something like that. So, I took it to a shop. They diagnosed it and told me that the distribution cap & rotor is old and needs to be replaced. Thinking that it would cost me less money (and it did), I replaced it myself, since it's a pretty easy job. Got the parts from napa and a few mins later my car was running again.

    One week later (today), my car has problems starting up again. I thought maybe the cap was loose or wasn't placed properly, so I unscrewed it and screwed it back on. The car starts now, but it doesn't start very normally. The car engine rattles a little more when it starts. It starts now, but I don't want to risk driving around and having it die on me again. I've already payed alot for towing and diagnostics.

    Considering my story, can anyone tell me what could be the possible source of this problem? I'd really appreciate if someone could give me some inputs.

  • guy9guy9 Posts: 1
    My '90 626 runs like a champ, but has developed an odd electrical problem. The wipers and air conditioner seem to have a mind of their own. Maybe we'll work, maybe we won't. This is not nice during a rain storm.

    However, I can always make them work by turning the wiper switch on before I switch on the ignition. Everything is then fine, until the next time it throws a fit.

    I'm not much of a mechanic, but have been known to throw up the hood and putz around. So, if anyone has a "Try this", I'd appreciate it.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I finally replaced the rear sway bar links on my 99 V6. I found one socket joint on one of the old links worn out and loose. Installing the new links made the occassional rear clunk disappear for good (so far).

    To replace the links, you need a 14 mm open wrench, regular and deep 14 mm sockets, long ratchet or breaker bar, and a 5 mm Allen wrench. When you break the nuts loose on the old links, you will need to hold the socket bolt in place with the 5 mm Allen wrench while loosening the nut (otherwise the bolt will tun with the nut in the link socket hoint). And soak the nuts well with penetrating oil before you start. Those nuts were really tight!

    BTW, those links are not cheap. With 25% off the list price from my local Mazda dealer, the two links cost me about $60 plus tax.
  • kevin100kevin100 Posts: 2
    My friends 98 626 has working high beams no low beams a nd no dashboard lights. Any suggestions or clues as to where i should start? thanks
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The problem is most likely the light switch itself. I had something similar happen to my Nissan pickup - I had high beams, but no low beams. The culprit WAS the light switch (part of the turn signal stem).
  • kevin100kevin100 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. my friend is on a tight budget and I'd like to help her out if I can, I'll test out the switch and see what happens Thank You very much
  • mposeymsmposeyms Posts: 1
    How did you resolve this problem? Did it turn out to be major transmission trouble or was it an electronic part that engages the transmission that needs to be replaced? I have the same trouble with a 1991 Mazda 626. The shift lever on the automatic transmission is moving, but none of the gears will engage. I would like to find out if anyone else has had this problem.
  • buchibuchi Posts: 1
    Hello. I have same problem like you and please tell me if you found any solution

    My 2000 4cyl mazda 626 intermittently fails to start. The problem is far more prevalent when the temperature outside is high, and when the car has been run recently [less than 30minutes]. However the problem does seem to occur on fewer occassions when the vehicle is cool [2+hours turned off]. When the vehicle fails to start it usually seems like on my first try I get a couple of firings from the spark plugs, and that's it [doesn't seem like enough to be flooding the engine]. Then repeated attempts lead to nothing more than the starter turning the engine with no ignition whatsoever. In most situations if I let the car cool for an hour or two after having problems starting it, it starts. Once the car is running, it runs fine almost always.
    The starter turns fine in all situations, so I've ruled out battery or starter. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter but to no avail; the problem is exactly the same after doing so.

    I have also brought the car to a couple of shops, including a mazda dealership. None found any issue while the vehicle was at their shop (no bad test codes, unable to reproduce the problem etc.) During this winter the car seemed to perform almost flawlessly [ambient temps ranging from -10 to 30 degrees fahrenheit], but now that it is 50 degrees fahrenheit out again, the problem has returned.

    thank you!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    My son rearended a car a couple of weeks ago, almost totaled our 2000 626 I4 automatic (doesn't take much to do that, as the front bags deployed). Front-end damage really wasn't that bad, didn't even touch the hood. Got the car back the other day and drove it for the first time myself today. Noticed there seemed to be a lot of vibration from the engine when in gear, and it gets worse with the A/C on. This is hood-vibrating, wheel-shuddering vibration. It goes away when in P or N. I know it didn't do that before the crash. It wasn't silky-smooth, but it didn't vibrate to that degree. Any thoughts as to whether a front-end collision could cause this? I was thinking maybe a motor mount could have been damaged.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Several possibilities:

    damaged hub(s), damaged strut(s), damaged tie rod(s), damaged steering box, bent axle or damaged CV joint, possibly an engine mount broken.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Thanks for the ideas. I am surprised that damaged hubs, struts, tie rods, steering box, or CV joint could cause the kind of vibration I am experiencing. That is because the vibration is really only noticeable when the car is stopped, in gear. On the road, the car drives fine. That is why I was thinking the engine mount might be the culprit. The car steers and handles fine, straight and true, and no noises from the front suspension.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Sure check the mounts carefully then. Some mounts LOOK great but are in fact broken...they can be trickly. You need to have the engine pried and lifted to see for certain.

    Also make sure your idle speed is not abnormally low.


  • nuttallnuttall Posts: 1
    Dear Forum members. I am experiencing a problem that is progressively getting worse. about 6 months ago my Mazda 626 4 cylinder started to 'drop a cylinder' at about 1800 revs... basically when it was under load and accelerating. Now the problem has got worse. When the car is cold, there is no problem.. then.. like a switch.. I can expect irregular pickup of the motor at light throttle speed. I have adjusted my driving to compensate e.g. slowly pressing the accelerator.. or making sure that the engine revs are above 2500 in every gear.
    I have changed the distributor.. cap and leads.. plugs, and given the car two treatments of Injector Cleaner.
    Has anyone had the same problem? I will clean the throttle body tomorrow and check the flow sensor... also I will try to check the TPS for any gaps in ohm resistance.
    Hope you can help. :cry:
  • twitmetwitme Posts: 7
    Hi. I've been having problems with my 2001 4cyl mazda 626 not starting in warm weather.

    The Fuel Pressure Regulator keeps going bad. I've replaced it twice in two years. There is something else in the car causing the regulator to become faulty, and causing other problems with the vehicle.

    Can anyone please tell me what components in the vehicle could possible do damage to the Fuel Pressure Regulator if they are faulty themself? Would the fuel pump relay have an effect? the fuel pump itself? the main computer brain? the fuel injectors?

    I'm just trying to get an idea of all the possible causes of repeated fuel pressure regulator failure. thank you.
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