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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Well, I am fast approaching the 150k mile mark on my '99 ES V6. The engine is still running strong and everything works.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The best way to avoid automatic transmission failures is to get a manual transmission. Especially in a Mazda.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    Adding a transmission cooler for about $200 seems to help also.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Apparently it does. I recently talked to a Mazda tech who works at the local Mazda dealership. He has a Mazda 626 witha 4 cyl engine and the infamous Ford transmission. He has over 140k on the car and still no transmission issues with the original unit. He told me bought the car slightly used and immediately installed a large external oil cooler to keep the transmission oil cool.

    But I bet that he flushes the transmission and replaces the fluid very frequently too.
  • jeff46jeff46 Posts: 1
    my 1994 626 will not pass the nox emission test. any help
  • knownotknownot Posts: 3
    We have a 2001 Mazda 626 with over 75,000 miles. My check engine light came on yesterday after running a few errands. The car was running fine. I checked my coolant level and it is low, but car is not running hot. The light still came on after I added water. We do zip maintenance other than oil changes. The owners manual says use Mazda brand orange coolant. I want to try changing the coolant myself. Will I have to wait until Monday and buy coolant from the dealer? What would be the equivalent in another brand? I checked with our solid waste authority and I know where to take old coolant. The manual says 7.9 quarts of coolant. It seldom gets more than -5F here. So I figure a gallon jug and then water will be about the right mix. What do I need other than coolant and a container that will hold at least three gallons? What else simple can I do to possibly make the light go out? I think spark plugs are beyond me. My trusted independent mechanic has retired and I'm not very impressed with local dealer. Money is very tight.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Deal with the CEL first by going to AutoZone and have them
    pull the codes...this procedure will fit your last sentence
    quite nicely...ITS FREE. Good luck
  • knownotknownot Posts: 3
    Thank you for replying. Advance Auto Parts is another chain that will read the code for free. The code is PO 455. I think that means major leak in emission control/exhaust system. I know this is probably a big expensive repair, but I did crawl under the car (first time ever) from several vantage points and inspect it with a flashlight. I think I found 3 problems. Is there someplace I can view a simple overview of the underside? I know I can buy a manual for under $20, but the last time I did that the car died forever soon after that. I don't remember who published the manual for my old Reviera. I know it was not Chilton.
    I found the manual frustrating because it would say remove part X to reach part Z. I want a manual that says remove part X by... to reach part X. If I a diagram similar to the engine compartment overview in the owner's manual, then I could say the bracket under A is only held by one screw/bolt and there is another hole on the bracket and and on A. I need a basic vocabulary. Our state does not have an emissions test. We have been driving in town with the windows wide open,rather than burn gas on air conditioning. We have a carport rather than a garage. We are down to the one car. Is it safe to drive it until I can get a service appointment?
    Thanks
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    These are generally DIYable without much difficulty, though you have to be sure you purge all the air out of the water lines; otherwise you'll wind up with a bubble and poor flow and scary temp readings. (I've seen even dealerships mess this up.)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes, you should use only Mazda orange coolant. Here is my experience with changing coolant on my '99 V6:

    I always change my own coolant. This V6 engine has no engine block drain plug. There is a plate with a gasket on the back of the engine block that could be removed to drain coolant, but it is very difficult to access and Mazda delaer strongly recommended not removing it. So I just drained the radiator (there is a 10 mm hex plastic drain plug on the right lower corner of the radiator. You must be extremely carful not overtighten it or you will strip the plastic threads).

    Anyway, just draining the radiator on the V6 and disconnecting the lower radiator hose will drain slightly less than a gallon of coolant. So do not mix more than 1/2 gallon of Mazda coolant and 1/2 gallon of distilled water for the recommended 50/50 mix. And yes, do use DISTILLED water, irrespective of what somebody tells you.

    After you refill the system through the coolant overflow bottle (no radiator cap on the V6 radiator), start the engine and run it with the overflow tank filler cap off. Otherwise the air will not be purged from the system and hot air pockets may be trapped in the cooling system, giving abnormally high momentary temperature readings. Add coolant as necessary to top off. Then reinstall the cap on the overflow bottle and take the car fro a spin. After you park it and the engine cools off, check the bottle level and add more coolant if necessary. You may have to repeat this one more time.

    The only time I drained about 2 gallons of coolant from my engine was when I removed the water pump during the timing belt service. I replaced the water pump too.

    The coolant overflow plastic bottles on these cars are of poor quality. I am on my third bottle at 150K miles, as all of them developed slow leaks along the bottom seam at some point. I imagine that the ones in the 4 cylinder version are not a whole lot better. Recommend replacing them every 60k miles.
  • How do I change this. I have seen one place to just pull the nob off. I've seen i had to take the air bag out and wheel and clock spring. anyone know how to do it?
  • carguy32carguy32 Posts: 6
    hAVE HAD CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PROBLEMS FOR SEVERAL YEARS. i JUST DID A VALUE JOB AND CAR RUNS GOOD BUT LIGHT COME ON STILL. i CHECKED THE CODE WITH A lAUNCHcREADER GENERIC obdii READER AND HAD A CODE OF 1633. i CAN NOT FIND MY CODE BOOK FOR THE READER. aNYONE HAVE ONE THAT COULD LOOK THIS UP AND LET ME KNOW WHAT IT SAYS. THANKS CARGUY32
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    If I remember correctly (I'm out of 626-land these days), this was an overcharge code: the battery is evidently getting more than the 14, or whatever, volts it expects.
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I retrofitted some 134A valves onto it,and put in a freon charge but it is not cold (semi cold). Pressure is good(40 PSI)I was thinking a specialist could evacuate the system and evaluate the compressor, expansion valve, etc. Any input would be appreciated very much.
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I have a 1990 626 4 cylinder,and was getting bucking and went out and got a new ignition rotor and ignition cap,installed them and the bucking is gone.
  • bululubululu Posts: 1
    I've met the same problem, just replaced a CV.
  • lnavlnav Posts: 13
    Replaced front tires, mounted, balanced and had 4 wheel alignment done. Feels good runs smooth, no more shaky steering wheel. BUT now I feel as if though my car is swaying, not constantly, mostly on highway. It feels as if the rear wheels are catching onto something on the road which causes my car to sway. Feels unstable like I may lose control. Thanks
  • chacha62chacha62 Posts: 4
    I am at 108,000 on my 01 626. Runs great, having a little over heating issue, took it in to be looked at. The guy at pep boys is telling me a I need a new compressor the hose is clogged. I had him talk to my husband on the phone, funny I left 2 hrs later with my reservoir has a leak. I have a question for you. My manual says to replace the timing belt at 106,000. I have not done that. My husband thinks I crazy for wanting to get it changed, he said you will know when its going to go out on you, he is a former mechanic. I guess I am a worry wart I think it should be changed out.
  • mcivermciver Posts: 1
    hi! i recently purchased a 1991 mazda 626 4cyl, automatic, 155k miles, four door car.. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, and air cleaner... heres the problem.. when leaving a stoplite, in drive with the a/c on or off, sometimes the car seems to stutter/hesitate, stumble.. its kinda hard to describe, when i try to accelerate the car picks up and drops rpms..im kinda lost as to where to start to fix the problem. it doesnt do it every time, it does it wether its hot or cold.. anybodys suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!thanks-Mark
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