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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    I have the Haynes Manual for Mazda 1993 thru 2001 including both OBDl and OBD-ll. All the OBD ll codes start with a P and then an 0 for example PO100, PO102 etc .
    My Manual shows nothing resembling what you have listed Maybe you can get it read at Auto Zone for free and come back with the new code. I will be checking in every few days.
    Good Luck
    PGP :)
  • hsriramhsriram Posts: 1
    I've 2000 Mazda 626 LX - 123 K miles. It has a check engine light that comes on and off though these days it is almost on. Of late on taking the car to about 20 miles, O/D Light starts flashing. The only code that comes out is PO421. This code states that the catalytic converter is bad. Another mechanic seeing the same code adviced that the O2 sensors are bad and need to be relaced. Yet another mechanic says that the car has 2 catalytic converters - any one of them could be bad and even there could be a case that the O2 sensors are bad and giving wrong signals and on taking the car to long drives, with repeated signals to the computer starts flashing O/D light. I'm a very confused person now. Are all the problems related? What is the actual problem? Can someone help me nail it down? Thanks in advance.
  • loduffyloduffy Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Mazda 626 LX (4 cyl). It has ~68000 miles on it. Earlier this year, before the day light saving began, and the weather was cooler, if I turned on the head light in the morning, and braked to stop, the car would shake. In the evening, the symptom was milder. A friend of mine thought my alternator was malfunctional. So I went to Autozone to have them test it. It turned out both the battery and the alternator were all right.

    Now, in the summer, I don't drive with head light on that much; but the air condition takes the place of the head light, and the symptom is more severe. When the air condition is on, and I brake to a stop, the car will shake. If I don't turn off the air condition quickly, the engine will stall. The air condition works fine other wise (when I don't have to brake to stop, eg on free way).

    I believe these two things are related, but don't know where lies the fault. Please help. Thanks a lot
  • bgautreaubgautreau Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Mazda 626 LX with a 4 CYL. Purchase in Feb 06 @ 162000 kms it is now 183000km. Very good in gaz and run smoothly, perfect to drive in town or go on highway with no hill. I do have 1 question

    Everything, I push the brake to fast, try to pass a car...well everytime the car need power, the engine light goes on, I have to release the gaz, let him breaths and try again smoothly. I now it has no power but this is definitly a problem. The women that have it before tell me that she did bring it to a dealer and put it on the computer, but they found nothing.

    It is may be fact that it has not enough air coming?

    When I try to pass a car in a hill, it goes okay, after 5-10 sec, Engine light come on and rpm goes at 4 and stuck there. engine dies, like I have not the feet on the floor. It looks like that there is no overdrive(it works). If someone knows what I am saying, please respond
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    A common problem with the 4 cylinder is the air ducting that is between the Mass Air flow meter and the throttle housing. You should check this for leaks, and cracks . That can be causing unmonitored air to enter and throw off the mixture. I personally have little faith in all the people that read codes. In your Diagnostic Control box right before battery ,open it up and see if they are actually connector wires in the TENS and GRND slots. Mine where empty, and people were trying for 4 years to draw codes and with no connectors I can see why they found no error codes. Make sure this box has those connectors or you may have the bastardized FORD EEC lV combo Mazda diagnostic system. In that case the way of drawing codes is easier but totally different and even most Mazda mechanics do not now how to do it . Does your car have a FORD CDE4 transmission? Also look in door jamb was it built in the USA?
    Let me know and I can tell you how to read codes to help you diagnose it if it is not the air ducting. It is very possible thatyou need a newair flow meter. I changed mine and the car is runnning great after 3 years searching for the problem and almost setting fire to car in frustration.
    PGP
  • glinggling Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    The engine in my car ceased running on the way home from work yesterday. The engine started losing power and acceleration while cruising at ca. 50 mph. The loss of power eventually led to a stall over about 5 seconds. The car would not start and had to be towed. Prior to this (an hour or so), the engine was running a little rough with a noticeable loss of power and tend to idle at about 500 RPM or less. The weather was rather hot over the last few days (high 90s). There was a peculiar odor in the car when I drove to work in the morning and I can't really describe it. I had a half tank of gas and the spark plugs along with the fuel filter were replaced about a month ago. Further attempts to start the car this morning were unsuccessful; the starter and perhaps, the engine turns but that's about it. My check-engine-light is on but it has been on for some time now. It would be intuitive for me to heed some attention to the warning but I am just using this car as a banger for a while longer. I've managed to check a few things before I hitched a ride to work today:

    1. I checked the belts on the left hand side of the engine and they were not broken (I will check to see if they are worn later today). I've read that the timing belt may be a cause but I am not sure where to look. I saw a total of two or three belts when I was looking this morning.

    2. Fuel filter doesn't seem to be leaking; I was wondering if I had installed the filter wrong last month.

    3. Opened the oil cap on the top of the engine and had someone try to start the car. I couldn't see anything moving and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to except for a small pin of some sort rise up and down. I didn't look too closely though.

    4. Oil and coolant levels were at specification.

    There have been a couple of suggestions here and there about similar problems but not very specific. I was wondering if anyone had any different suggestions or for that matter, just plain reiterate a few previous suggestions. From what I've gathered already, it could be a problem with:

    1. fuel lines
    2. fuel pump
    3. air duct manifold
    4. distributor cap and/or rotor
    5. fuel pressure regulator
    6. fuel pump relay
    7. alternator
    8. spark plug cables
    9. mass airflow meter
    10. timing belt
    11. heck, I might as well list parts for the entire car.

    I'm not too savvy with the more complicated (relative I guess) aspects of a car engine but am mechanically able. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    There seems to be a direct relatioship between sensors and codes caused. I was getting and MAF sensor code and an O2 sensor code. After replacing MAF the O2 code never came back. My book shows the P0420 and Po430 code as Catalyst effeciency system below threshold. As this can be thrown off by numerous things , I would continue to look for a better mechanic that is not going to guess, and change parts randomly till your broke.Especially the guy that tells you that code is O2 sensor. It could very well be O2 sensor but unless he is getting a different code he is guessing.
    Remember codes do not mean a part , or sensor is defective , it just leads to a place to look for the problem . Your converters could be running inefficiently because of 2 rich a mixture and that could be Mass AIr Flow meter, or O2 sensors. Is that the only code they get or is it the one they are telling you about . Have you watched while they drew it?
    You also mention that it comes on some times and most of the times now. Is it more prevalent when hot. I would have them clear all the codes (there are hard codes and memory codes)and redraw codes the first time it comes on.

    If you have recreated the same driving action you may get a lead about which direction to start first.
    Investigate, learn and do not beleive the first or second mechanic especially when they do not agree entirely.
    It took me 3 years here in Greece and 4 mazda dealers till I found out the problem.( I FOUND IT NOT THEM) with help from these forums and soem research.
    Try to be more specific under what condtitions the first inkling of the light going on after all codes are cleared and come back and tell us
    PGP
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    HAVE YOU CHECKED MOTOR MOUNTS? ENGINES PRODUCE VIBRATION IN DIFFERENT STAGES OF USE, THAT GO UNRECOGNIZED WHEN YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS ARE FUNTIONING PROPERLY.
    THAT WILL NOT BE THE ANSWER TO YOUR OVERALL PROBLEM BUT IT CAN BE THE REASON YOU ARE FEELING THAT SHAKE. I REPLACED MOUNTS AND NO LONGER FEEL THE SHAKE WHEN AIR CONDITIOING COMPRESSOR KICKS IN. IT IS STILL THERE BUT MINIMIZED AS IT SHOULD BE.
    IF MOUNTS ARE BAD THATS A START. THEN YO HAVE TO DRAW CODES TO SEE WHAT IS CAUSING EXTRAORDINARY VOLTAGE DROPS THAT CAUSE THE BAD ENGINE FIRING .DID AUTO ZONE DRAW ANY CODES ?? DO EITHER FIRST ACCORDING TO BUDGET
    GOOD LUCK
    PGP
    PGP
  • stee1stee1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 with the same problem. It is a very strange problem indeed. My car did the same thing 1 year ago on my way to work. It would not crank for 10 days so I had it towed. When the mechanic tried to crank the car it started right up. He ran a computer diagnosis and it read that it was the sensor. He said that I would have to have the distributor cap replaced to fix the sensor, but he said that it didn't mean that the sensor was the problem. Since it was running fine without any maintenance, I didn't do anything to it. I have driven it for a year with no problems until now. It has done it again but has not cranked since. It has been 12 days. I am going to have it towed again and maybe it will crank! I will let you if a mechanic can fix mine.
  • I can confirm the fix. I had the exact same symptons, I picked up 2 bushings from the dealer (who wanted to charge me $200 for the install), then went to firestone who installed them for 40 Bucks. Thunks and trunk rattling gone. For anyone else having this issue, I would start with the sway bar bushing. Thanks backy :shades:
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Posts: 14
    Hello Guys,

    I have 99 Mazda 626 LX 4 Cylinder and currently it has 62000miles. So far I am only doing Oil Changes on regular basis, but I wanted to find out, what kind of maintainence I must do on my car now, so that it keeps on running in good health. How much does that kind of maintainence on the average cost?

    Thanks

    Syed
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I'm not sure of the later models of 626's,but I have a 1990 with automatic transmission and I have heard from more than one source that unless a seperate aftermarket transmission fluid cooler is installed($40-$80 part cost)those transmissions are prone to early failure because of heat builup. Also that the electronics associated with those automatics can be troublesome at times when a mechanical failure is suspected. Regular fluid changes are also advised (every year or two). In the summer I would advise a higher viscisity motor oil or a motor oil additive such as STP oil treatment especially if you get stuck in traffic regularly in the summer. Timing belt(includeing water pump and pulleys and oil seals for crankshaft and camshaft) should be replaced every 4-5 years or so or every 60-90,000 miles. And naturally regular but crucial stuff like hoses and serpentine belts,spark plugs and wires. The cost of these things can be prohibitive if you have to bring it to a garage instead of doing it yourself,but some things like spark plug wires and even spark plugs(useing antisieze compound on the threads)are not too difficult for a novice mechanic. Fuel filter eplacement is advisable once every 2-3 years as well as air filter insection and possilble relacement once in a while(every year or two)
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Posts: 14
    Hello Guys,

    I have a 626 LX - 1999 Model - 4 Cylinder with 62000 miles. Do I need to change the timing belt? The car so far is running OK. What else should I replace which is critical.

    Syed
  • saeedabidisaeedabidi Posts: 14
    Thank you. The information you have given is really helpful.
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    Also, you should inspect and or replace the front brake pads every 10,000-20,000 miles or so and the rear a little less.And replace the antifreeze every 4-5 years or add a supplement such as prestone anti rust(22 ounce)or Zerex anti rust, as anti freeze loses it's ability to prevent rust over time, but not it's freeze boilover protection.These things will save you even bigger costs in the future such as brake rotor replacement and radiator replacement.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    My 94 626 lxa 4 cylinder with the FORD CD4E tranny went alittle nuts today . AFter a lot of driving on a very hot day it would :#1 not go into reverse at all , #2 neutral produced a forward gear with clunky starts, and # 3 after cooling down reverse came back although it was initially clunky also. I needed to add over 1 liter of coolant to radiator. Its very hot here in Greece and I think it may be a semi fried SWITCH INHIBITOR RANGE SENSOR which we replaced 5 years ago after similar symptoms. I am getting a 133 code after two 111 (codes which signify no faults). I can find nothing out about 133 codes on a OBDl Mazda in my book.
    Can anyone confirm that this is a range sensor code. I have ordered the part and it will be coming to Greece with my cousins son tomorrow. I hope this solve the problem but any confirmation of code or advice would be appreciated
    TIA
    PGP
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    Take it for a long drive back to Michigan or something, That cool air at highway speeds keeps it from heating up too much and can clear out the oxygen sensor and possibly some of those well known codes as well.
  • WELL I CHANGED THE TRANNY SHIFT INHIBITOR AND THAT DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AT 2 AM THE OTHER NIGHT AND WAS LUCKY TO MAKE IT BACK TO ATHENS FROM THE COUNTRY SIDE. IT WAS ABOUT 180 MILES AND IN 3RD OR 4TH GEAR I COULD DRIVE THE CAR NONSTOP ACROSS EUROPE. WHEN I NEED TO CHANGE GEARS OR STOP TO PAY A TOLL TRANNY CLUNKS LIKE CRAZY . IT IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE.THE MECHANIC WHO DID THE TRANNY REBUILD 5 YEARS AGO,TAKES THE MONTH OF AUGUST OFF LIKE MOST EVERYONE ELSE HERE IN GREECE.
    I THINK I WILL BE SCREWED UNTIL HE GETS BACK UNLESS SOME ONE ELSE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS. I HAVE TO SHIFT INTO LOW OR AT LEAST S TO GET STARTED. DRIVE PRODUCES NOTHING. AFTER GAINING SOME SPEED I CAN SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT WILL HOLD OVER 30 MPH OR SO. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS? MAZDA MECANIC SAID IT COULD BE A SIMPLE PROBLEM SENSOR ETC BUT HE WOULD NOT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING AT AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY HERE IN GREECE.
    THE HOLD LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AFTER ABOUT 1 1/2 HOURS OF DRIVING AND I AM GETTING NO CODES AFTER CLEARING THE 133 THAT I HAD BEFORE CLEARING IT AND STARTING TRIP.


    THX
    PGP
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If you have 108K miles on the original timing belt, have it changed ASAP! I cannot agree with your husband's assessment that you will know when changing the timing belt is due. You cannot see the belt unless you remove the timing belt cover. Timing belts usually fail unexpectedly, leaving you stranded. Worse yet, if you have a 4 cylinder engine, it may be an interference engine, so you may be looking at $4k in engine work if the timing belt fails while driving (valves will strike the pistons). Mazda recommends replacing the timing belt at 60K miles. Stretching it to 105k miles like I did, I was taking a risk.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I recently replaced several instrument panel bulbs on my car because they burned out, and only the tachometer and odometer were lit up at night.

    Anyway, I will briefly describe how to do this without breaking things (following the shop manual sequence).

    1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal
    2. Get a flat bladed screwdriver, wrapped in a rag, insert it into the front edge of the side dashboard panel (driver's side) and gently pry the clips out. The panel has hinge-like plastic clips in the back, so be careful not to break those. Once the front edge of the panel is pried loose, pull the panel out. You will see two screws under the panel, holding the lower dash panel in place.
    3. Remove the two lower panel screws and also one on the right hand lower edge of the lower panel. Then pry the panel out gently and it will drop about an inch, revealing additional screws holding the black upper panel in place(no need to fully remove the lower panel).
    4. You will need a short torx bit screwdriver to get to some screws. Also, a flex shaft torx bit screwdriver will work (this is what I used). To remove the upper black cover panel , you also need to disconnect the oscillating vent motor connector, hazard switch and rear defroster connectors, and the power mirror switch connector, which was so stubborn on my car, that I left it connected and just moved the panel out of the way suspended from the power mirror switch harness.
    Be careful not to break the wiring harness connectors. The have a plastic barb that must be pushed in to release the connectors. Do not force them apart, and do not use pliers to pull them apart.
    5. Remove the instrument panel black cover. It is attached with 4 same size torx screws.
    6. Unplug the three connectors on the back side of the printed circuit instrument cluster and mark with tape for correct reinstallation. Now you can remove the instrument cluster from the vehicle and get to the bulbs.
    7. The bulbs that provide the illumination for the speedometer, tach, and the gauges are green bulbs with grey sockets. There are three of them. Also, there is one small green bulb. There are four types of bulbs used in the cluster. Each warning light has a small individual clear bulb. There is probably at least twenty bulbs total in that instrument cluster. The bulbs are removed and replaced by gently twisting them and pulling straight out.
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