Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626 Troubles



  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Great information - thanks for sharing it!
  • Hello Guys,

    I have 63000 miles on my Mazda 626 LX, 1999 Model 2.5 liter 4 cylinders. I have not yet replaced the timing belt on my car and I was informed by the service people that this is very critical to be replaced. Mazda dealearship here costs around Cd$845.00 (canadian). This is the cost of 60,000 miles service on the car.

    Now I wanted to find out, if I should take this car to mazda dealership or any mechanic should be able to replace the timing belt. The local mechanic has given me a cost of almost half the amount.

    Will greatly appreciate any insight.

    Thank you..........
  • Hi Guys I am back in NYC now where I have bandwidth and am trying to get some info on my 94 MAZDA 626 I4 ATX which is still in Greece. I subscribed to ALL DATA and they refer to a SUPER TESTER 11 to help diagnose ATX but I cant find any info on the tester anywhere
    Here is a update of my situation posted August 4th or so:

    Tranny Problems My 94 626 lxa 4 cylinder with the FORD CD4E tranny went a little nuts today . After a lot of driving on a very hot day it would : #1 not go into reverse at all #2 neutral produced a forward gear with clunky starts, and # 3 drive would not engage at all #4 forward could be accomplished by using S or L gear #5 after cooling down reverse came back although it was very clunky . Although car did not register overheated I needed to add over 1 liter of coolant to radiator.
    I am getting a 133 code after two 111 (codes which signify no faults). I can find nothing out about 133 codes on a OBD 1 Mazda in my book.
    Tranny will not go forward in D but will go in S or L and eventually when getting up to moderate speed 40-50 MPH or so, I can put selector in drive. It will drive well in 3rd and 4th gear (I DROVE 140 MILES AT HIGH SPEEDS 80 MPH> without problems) .
    The hold light came on after about one hour of driving. Also Reverse does not work now,it clunks and does not move at all .Also S and L engagement of tranny causes a loud clunk.
    Anyone know how to check solenoids as suggested here ?
    Thx Peter
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    The timing belt job is 3 hours of labor and the belt itself at a Mazda dealer is over $100 CAN. This totals around $300 tax in. I deal only with a private mechanic, who I trust and is a master at what he does and charges fair prices. My car had 97000 km on it when he did the timing belt. He also did the water pump, even though it was ok, he changed the coolant, valve cover gasket all for $700 in Canada. I would never take my car to a dealer because of the impersonal nature of their work. Shop around, get friends to refer you to a good mechanic, it's worth it. The service at this mileage should run you about $300(plugs, plug wires, air and fuel filters, injector cleaning). Sounds like the dealer's price is too high.
  • I have a 1996 626 with 140K miles, recently purchased, and have experienced the ubiquitous rough idle problems. I had an engine code P1402, EGR valve metering orifice restricted. I replaced the EGR valve with a new one ($$$) and made sure the passages to and from the valve were clear, and within minutes after starting it up, got the same P1402 code!

    What now?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The problem is most likely clogged EGR orifices in the intake manifold past the throttle body. I had this problem with my V6. What happens is, the carbon clogs the orifices so that the EGR flow into the intake manifold is stopped or greatly reduced. You need to remove the throttle body to access these.
  • Thanks for the tip: When I installed the new EGR valve I had the throttle body off and ran a .45 caliber brass brush through the EGR orifices, and blew 150 PSI comressed air through both holes: it blasted into the intake manifold through one hole and out the exhaust pipe through the other. Seemed like both of them were clear...
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Did you check the EGR control solenoid for proper operation? It is a separate component. On the V6 model, the EGR is electrically controlled, do not know if it is the same on the 4 cylinder.
  • i bought a 93 v6 mazda 626 crono.
    first problem i had was my steering it was leaking steering fluid...i thought it was a hose problem or something then it leaked to my tires which was a bigger problem...i also hear clickering sounds evertime i go over bumps..
    solution-- it was a rack a pinion steering cost $900 canadian to get fix at mechanic---product worth $150

    second problem
    my rpm revs really high and my temperature is at red line and my steering was hard to control--the problem was my water pump was broken and my steering belt was gone..Mechanic fee $600

    third problem
    everytime i drove my car i would hear a dragging noise at the back of my car...this started happening after i change my break pads 1 week earlier.. --problem-- it was my tires...the were not even so i got 4 new tires and a tire and a tire rotation which is important, it makes sure my car is level..cost $600 new tires

    fourth problem
    my car started leaking smoke out of my exhaust, it was grey smoke not got fixed when i took it to the mechanic..- problem was, it was leaking oil in my engine pumps.. which cause grey smokes cuz it hadnt leak that bad yet cost to fix $500
    1 month later it started leaking smoke again so this time i solved it a different way...took out my cat coverter and got straight pipes and a new racing muffler...cost $400 1 yr later still hasnt smoke a bit of grey smokes...lasted longer then cleaning my engine

    fifth problem
    i bought a new intake for my car to make it sound better and make it gain more horse power....i attached everything correct, 1 week later my car is now starting to shake when my intake is hot, when its cold it runs fast and smooth but when its hot it kinda chokes or dont get enough sucking or something? havent gone to the mechanic yet on this one..kinda wanna fix it on my own just in case it was a small problem! If anyone had this happen to them please help.. thx u

    btw.. i flush my oil and my tranny and i gain all my horse power back was like running like it was new..
  • jusdawnjusdawn Posts: 1
    I have a 97 626 with 100,000 miles. My car makes noise when I accelerate. Took it the dealership and they said the inner CV is bad and needs to be repleced for $500 plus. I am leaving the country in December and don't want to invest that much but I need my car. Is it possible to do it yourself and how? My brother says he knows but....HELP!!!!
  • If you were really leaving, then why not just buy a rebuilt axle at an auto parts store, and maybe an axle seal for the transmission and install or have them installed for you?
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I just purchased a 99 ES V6 for my daughter. Car has just over 100k. In excellent condition. I did have to put a set of tires on it. Anyway, my question regards some brake noise I am getting from the rear, driver's side. It is low pitched noise, and I do not hear it all of the time. Sometimes when backing up I hear it, sometimes when slowing down for a traffic light I hear it, but not all of the time. The shop that put tires on inspected it and could not find anything wrong, but they did hear it, thinking it may be because the car sat a little bit before I bought it. Has anyone else experienced something similar?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Rebuilt axles/CV joints are very inexpensive. Last time I check with NAPA, they had Mazda 626 rebuilt axles and CV joints for $ 58b per side! I asked how come they were so cheap, and they said that there was a local rebuilder supplying these for them. I think they also have a lifetime warranty on them (need to double check that). Either way, if one CV joint is bad, the others are not far behind. Replace both axles and CV joints with rebuilt ones. The labor to replace should not be over $ 200 because they are replacing entire assemblies, which is a lot less work than replacint the CV boots and cleaning the joints.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The bearing on the A/C compresser pulley on my Mazda has disintegrated after 152K miles. No big deal, right? Wrong!
    First of all, you cannot replace just the bearing or the pulley with the bearing. You have to buy the whole A/C clutch assembly(even if the clutch was not damaged), which retails for about $ 250. (A new A/C compressor with the clutch is $480 for the V6 model). I bought the clutch and proceeded to remove the old clutch with the proper tools which I rented from Autozone. When I pulled of the pulley, I discovered that the damaged bearing has sheared off from the pulley and remained stuck on the compressor shaft. There is no way to pull it off, so I have to buy a new A/C compressor. And this means replacing the receiver/dryer too. And discharging/ recharging the system. So a $ 15 bearing failure has now turned into a $800+ dollar expense.
  • what kind of noise do u hear and is it from only one side or the whole rear side?
  • its cheaper if u actually shop around for the product and once u have the product u basically paying for labour charges ... but if u really want to save money let a private mechanic do it
  • Does anyone horns works. mine doesnt, and the abs light keep flashing. Anyone kno the probem?
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    It is a low pitched, almost rubbing type of sound. Very strange. I have never heard a brake sound like this.
  • It sounds to me like it may very well be that you need to replace the right rear wheel bearing. See if you can roll up all of the windows and get on some smooth straight road and put it in neutral at about 35-45 MPH and coast while listening for a low growl from the rear, or it may be more pronounced around a curve, it still sounds like a good geuss is the wheel bearing is worn. Front wheel bearings are much more of a concern than rear, and should be replaced much quicker, I have had some rear bearing noise for a couple of years now, and plan to eventually get them replaced.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Thanks for the suggestion of a wheel bearing issue. I am not sure that is the problem, since we only hear it when braking, with the foot on the brake pedal. And, no one circumstance brings the noise out. It is random. Very strange.
Sign In or Register to comment.