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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Do not assume you have a bad oil pump. First thing you need to do is to check the engine oil pressure. The oil pressure sender could be defective.

    About the transmission: You probably have a defective solenoid in the transmission. If your engine check light is on, get the code pulled for free by Auto Zone to see what the problem is. Do not replace unnecessary parts at random. NEW PLUGS, WIRES, DISTRIBUTOR ETC, will not fix your problem if they are not causing the problem.
  • P100 THANKS FOR THE INPUT....IT WAS AFTER ALL...THE OIL SENSING?..SENDING...UNIT....CHEAP FIX......MECHANIC PULLED THE FOLLOWING CODES....P0133 02 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 1 SENSOR 1
    P0421 WARM UP CATALYST EFFICIENCY BELOW TRESHOLD BANK 1
    P1131 UNKNOWN TROUBLE CODE
    P0300 RANDOM /MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE DETECTED
    P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1

    IS THERE ANYTHING I MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIX ON MY OWN ON THESE CODES??.IS THIS SOMETHING THAT A TUNE UP MIGHT FIX?......ANY IDEAS WHAT CODE P1131 IS FOR?....COULD IT BE RELATED TO THE TRANSMISION JERKING LIKE THAT?.....
    THANKS FOR THE HELP....REALLY APPRECIATED.
    JKAFKA
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    According to my 1999 shop manual, P1131 code corresponds to "heated oxygen sensor(front)". Condition: Switch sensor indicates lean

    When you replaced the plugs, is there a chance that you may have cracked one or more ceramic insulators? this happens more offten than you think. Happened to a coworker of mine, happened to me some years back. Take out tthe plugs and carefully check them and carefully reinstall. One or more misfiring plugs can cause all kinds of codes to me thrown. Transmission malfun ction may be related to engine misfiring.

    What is the compression in the cylinders? Also recommend a cylinder leakdown test.

    You could pour a bottle of chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner into your gas tank with about 8 gallons of gas and run it through.
  • THANKS...DIDN'T THINK OF THAT...I'LL CHECK THE PLUGS AND SEE WHAT'S UP IN THERE....THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF ONE OF THEM BEING CRACKED....I DIDN'T PUT THEM THERE....FRIEN OF MINE OWNER OF THE CAR DID.....SO...THANKS A LOT BUDDY.....AGAIN
    JAMES
  • I have a 1996 mazda 626 4 cyl atx....it has been running awful for about 6 months. Rough idle...almost stalls at red lights...very little power going up the slightest hill...if I let off the gas and step on it again it will take off but kinda jerky at various speeds..but will run 65 or 70 mph if you are patient enough to ease it up to there....i havent tried to run it any faster than that...changed plugs, oil, tanny fluid, distibutor cap, rotor and wires, timing belt and idlers, fuel filter, top o2 sensor, and valve cover gasket....cleaned the MAF. I am so tired of throwing money at this thing. CEO is on and codes are P1130, P1131, P0421 and P0171....Please help. I have looked for vacuum leaks but cant find anything obvious.
  • WELL...LOOKS LIKE GOD WORKS IN MISTERIOUS WAYS AFTER ALL.....AFTER I HAVE THAT OIL SENSING SWITH CHANGED..BECAUSE MY OIL LIGHT CAME ON IN MY DASH............GUESS WHAT?????
    ALL MY TRANSMISSION JERKING PROBLEMS DISSAPPEREAD!!!!!MY CAR RUNS BETTER THAN EVER...I JUST CANNOT BELIEVE IT....
    IT HAS POWER, IT TAKES OFF...THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS LIKE IT IS SUPPOSED TO.NO MORE JERKING...NO MORE FIDLING WITH THE GAS PEDAL TRYING TO MAKE IT SHIFT.......NOW ALL I HAVE TO TRACK DOWN IS WHY MY ENGINE LIGHT IS ON ...I'LL BE CHECKING MY SPARK PLUGS INSULATORS TOMORROW AND SEE IF THEY ARE CRACKED (SOMEBODY IS GOING TO LOAN ME THE SPARK PLUG WRENCH)......I HOPE THIS INFO IS OF HELP TO YOU COOKLIO...AND THANKS TO P100 AGAIN FOR THE DIRECCION.....
    JAMES
  • HEY I JUST POSTED SORT OF AN ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEMS..MESSAGE # 2168 ....SOMETHING WORTH CHECKING INTO.....SINCE WE BOTH HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS....HAVE THE OIL SENSING SWITCH CHECKED.....MY PROBLEMS DISSAPEREAD AFTER THAT WAS CHANGED....AND MY CAR RUNS AND PURRS...I JUST CAN'T F...G BELIEVE IT!!!!!...I WILL KISS MY MECHANIC TOMORROW I THINK.....YUCK...GOOD LUCK FRIEND.
    JAMES
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hey James - just a quick note. If you would post your messages in normal case instead of all caps, they'd be a lot easier to read. Also, since all caps is interpreted as shouting, it's not really very good "netiquette". Thanks! :)
  • Pat..sorry about the caps thing.....won't happen again..promise....
    james
  • I dont see how it could be the oil sending unit...although I guess anything is possible at this point...I am not getting an oil light...but I will check it out...cant hurt for like 5 bucks...but all my codes point toward a lean fuel condition...oh well...I am ready to try anything...thx for the input.
  • have 2000 626 4 cyl, put in new timing belt when had head off and replaced water pump. When run ofter several days the alternator belt would brake. It also made noise, high pitched. On the third alternator and still does it. Have replace belts and have 1/2 play in belts. Now when first start up has the high pitched noise and then g oes away. However, it did this when first back toghter and the alternator would get very hot on the pully and melt the belt. Anyone had anything like this? Any suggestions would be welcome. Jerry
  • 2000 626 4cly. It appears I listed this as an answer to someone else question, sorry, I had head off and had value job replaced timing belt and water pump. when drove for a few days the alternator belt broke. I checked the alternator and it would make a high pitched noise and the pully would get very hot, it was melting the belt. I thought was alternator but have the 2th rebulit on it and they and the orginial all act the same. Now will start it up and the high pitched noise is on for a few seconds and goes away but it did this when first put back togehter and I had to have it towed twice as the belt broke and started running hot. Anyone had anything like this? Belt has 1/2 inch play and have replaced them twice now. Jerry
  • I won't go into all the other problems I've had with this car but you can probably imagine. My current issue is the stereo. Initially the display would dim and I couldn't control the volume and the CD would go in and out and I couldn't change radio stations. This only happened sometimes. I lived with it for awhile as it was only slightly troublesome (as I was much more concerned with the transmission!) Now the problem is much worse. I'm lucky to get it to works at all. Anybody else have this problem? I'll probably replace the stereo but would like to know what the issue might be. Thanks
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I seriously doubt that the alternator is your problem after trying three different ones. I suspect that the belt tensioner pulley bearing is on its last leg and about to freeze. I replaced both tensioner pulley bearings on my car because the bearings are permanently sealed and they start falling apart around the 100k mile mark. The pulley bearings can be purchased from your mazda dealer separately, but you need a shop press to replace them. You can also buy complete pulley assemblies, but they are rather pricey.

    I would remove the belt and the tensioner pulley. Spin the tensioner pulley by hand. it the bearing rattles or binds, you need a new one.
  • Like the previous poster mentioned, check the idlers & tensioners first. What will often happen is the new belt will stretch, even after only a days use. You may have to have it adjusted a few times until it stops stretching. It would be best to have it readjusted before it starts squeeling. When it starts squeeling it will self destruct in a very short time. Some belts stretch worse than others, try a Mazda belt from your dealer, it will stretch less and is likely the same or less than an aftermarket belt.
  • It's an internal problem with the radio and yes, you have to replace it. It's your choice whether you put another factory radio or an aftermarket. Personally I would put an aftermarket unit in. The factory radios were known to have LCD display and volume button problems. If you do go after market, buy a wiring harness adapter kit, they work really well and save you from cutting up the factory harness.
  • Thanks for your reply. I feel foolish but was talking to a friend that owns a auto shop at a cruise in and he said he would try taking up the play in the belt to see if that helped. It corrected the problem. However, I am not too red faced as when this first started the belts had little play. this model does not have a tensioner or I would have tried that before the alternator. Sometimes you can not see the forest for the trees. thanks again. carguy32
  • does any one knows why wehn it rains water comes in on the r/side of my 99 626 passanger side carpet is wet front and back...driver side ok???? :sick:
  • I'm having tail light trouble, the brake lights work, however the tail lights don't I have changed the bulbs and they still don't work. Any suggestions?
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