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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • Bulb type. You should use a dual filament type. #1157, and also verify your coresponding fuse in the fuse box is okay.
  • hi. im new here and i want to say thanks for having me. haviung said that, now i wonder if i could get some help with a problem that just occured.
    i had to change the water pump on my '96 626 and, as you all know, you have to take alot of engine parts off to get to it. well in the process, i figured i would change the timing belt as well, since i am told its best to do it when ur changing out a water pump on this car. now i have a small amount of knowhow when it comes to this, and as long as it took to do all of that, i managed to get it all done and the car started with no problem. its only when i go down the road, the car runs rough and the engine start surging when i come to a stop of any kind. after warm up it gets worse. i dont think my timing is off because i checked everything by marking everything before i took it apart and making sure everything lined back up as far as timing goes. is there something im supposed to do after i had put a new timing belt on? does something need to be reset? i would appreciate any help i can get without having to go the a shop cause my mistake is gonna probrably cost me more than it would have to have it all done at the shop in the first place.

    p.s.: the check engine light came on but goes away after i disconnect the battery for an amount of time. just thought i would throw that in.
  • hi.

    i was wondering if you had ever fixed the problem with your mazda. im having that same trouble now, and the idle air control valve that i was told would fix the problem is 500 dollars. since it didnt fix your problem, i was thinking maybe it wont fix mine either. im sure you dont have the car anymore, but if you could remember anything, i would greatly appreciate it.
  • Yes I fixed it with a tighter belt. I had a high pitched noise after putting in the timing belt and water pump. changed belts but when I first had problem the belts appeared to tight. However after changing and getting the alt.water pump belts tighter noise has not come back. After about 300 miles I think it is fixed. Never had a problem with idle air but check vacuum lines. I had one come off when working on it and it made the check engine light come on and the engine ran ruff. Found the line off and fixed the problem. hope that helps.
  • hi.
    thanks for responding back. unfortunately, my problem is still there. i changed the 400 dollar IAC valve and still doing the same thing, with the surging and idling rough. i do appreciate you taking the time to respond. i just hope my problem doesnt get any worse than it already is.
  • Sure, sometimes someone may have had the same problem. I would run the codes if you do not have a code checker go to one of the Auto Parts Stores. Advance help me a while back on finding something that had kept my check engine light on for several years. I had it at a dealer and several independant shops each year to pass emission check and after so long found the problem a value in the gas line that controls the fumes.
  • well i thought i would go ahead and recheck the timing. i talked to someone at another forum, and he asked if had turned the engine twice and checked to see if everything lined up. of course i didnt do it, so now im going to check the timing and see what happens.

  • well the verdict is in. it was my fault. my timing was way off. im suprised the car even started the way it did. either way its fixed now and 400 dollars later, it was my mistake. i appreciate all the help and i hope to help any of you guys out one day.
  • jcdongjcdong Posts: 1

    I am new here. I bought a 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6 (66K miles)last month. I found its engine idle speed increases from 800 rpm to 1,000 rpm for 2~3 seconds and then goes back to 800 rpm from time to time when I turn on the air conditioner or when the wind blows to the windshield. I am wondering if anyone here have the same experience. Could it be a big problem? Thanks.
  • The engine RPM will briefly surge when the a/c is turned. This is caused by the computer compensating for the extra load the compressor puts on the engine. The compressor also engages when you put the heater in the defrost position to aid defrosting. It is a good idea to leave your heater on the defrost position as little as possible for fuel economy reasons.
  • Ive been having really huge problems with my mazda. Yesterday as i was driving home my fans wouldn't work to keep my car engine cooled, so i pulled off to the side of the road and as i did, my battery died. When i got it home, we changed the alternator, since thats what people told me it was. Well, now after i have that fixed, i left my house was out for almost a half an hour and my battery dies again. Plus, my RPMs are jumping like its getting stuck in a higher gear or that my overdrive is stuck on. We can't figure out whats going on with it. Anyone know?
  • zillahzillah Posts: 7
    Does anyone have a recommendation on a timing belt kit brand? I've found Gates and Cloyes for around the same price. There are other kits by Gates labeled "kit" but they are only $100 which makes think something is missing from that set.

    Also, are the multi-rib drive belt and water pump always changed or just removed to get to the timing belt and then put back on?

    Thanks. :confuse:
  • You know, if you lived in Canada, you could just get it from an American by stealing it.
  • Hello. I am in need of fuel injector seals for my wife's 2001 626 2.0 4-cyl.
    They look to be close to 2mmx11mm. I can't seem to order them anywhere as a fuel injector seal kit online. And I'm having trouble ordering a kit of o-rings (this is all I really need) from an online hardware store that might have the correct size and type.
    Can anyone point me in the right direction?
    Chris B.
  • I have put so much money into this car, and it just never seems to stop! Now I have a new problem hopefully someone can help me so I know what to fix. When my car comes to a complete stop it seems to be Idle rough/low then it just eventually stalls out. I have even had the car just die after it stalls out, and after playing with the fuse box and the batter connectors the car started again. Is this an electrical problem or intake problem? Any thoughts or suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
    Sick and Tire Mazda Owner!
  • Hey been going thru the site here, nice, I need some help tho, shifter seems to lock in park and i have to shake itback and forth continually to shift into gear. Sometimes only a few times tho sometimes I literrally cant get for hours. I nocticed a few HUNDRED messages back that someone else had the same probs tho I couldnt find any responses to it. PLZ HELP..............and what in the world is the hold button suposed to do????

    Thanks all :confuse:
  • See if the engine is a interference engine. If it is that would explain alot. If it is the the values are bent.

    What is an interference engine? An interference design is such that the timing is just right to allow the valves to open into the cylinder where they share space with the piston. The valves must be closed in order for the piston to peak; the piston must be below peak in order for the valves to open. Interference engines may offer higher compression for this ability to bring the piston right to the top of the head. Conversely, if the timing belt or timing ever goes on an interference engine while running, the valves will all be shot from being mangled by the pistons still in motion. Non-interference engines are less costly to repair in this event.
  • Can anyone tell me where the crankshaft positioner sensor is located & if it is hard to replace? & if you think that is my problem??

    When the car is moving, the car seems fine; when I come to a complete stop or a short stop & try to take off again, the idle drops & the engine jumps. I chnaged the coil sensor and it didn't help, so I am thinking the camshaft positioner sensor? Or any other suggestions??

  • Hi - new here and looking for any info I can get on this problem. I have a 1995 626 LX V6 - 5 speed. When the weather is cold (under about 60F) the car starts right up. If it's warm out, or raining, the car won't start at all. I've been reading some of the posts and am wondering if it's a problem with the fuel regulator or maybe the fuel injector? I'd like to have some sort of idea what's wrong before I bring it in to my mechanic - I have a little issue with trust... Thanks in advance for your help!
  • I am looking very seriously at buying a used 1998 mazda 626 for between $4,500-5,000 with 90,000-110,000 on it. I pretty much gathered from reading the posts here that I should avoid the auto transmission (I prefer manual anyway). I have already narrowed the scope to 2 manual trans cars but looking at this site gives me 2nd thoughts. The 626 really seems to be a car with never ending problems. Everyone is complaining about one thing or the other and noone seems to stand by it. Honestly, is the 626 manual trans really as bad as it sounds here?
    Opinions will be greatly appreciated
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