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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • I knew it! Thank you for verifying that for me. We had to wait a week but we got the part (finally). The mechanic did it for free (what?!). I am so glad to know what actually happened.
  • ka1975ka1975 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Mazda 626LX which has been problem-free for a long time. About a couple months ago, the dashboard lights started to shut down every time I used the left turn signal. Now the dashboard lights will not turn on at all, and my taillights are not working either. (Interestingly the headlights and all three brakelights are working perfectly. Upon examining the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, I realized that they were completely separate circuits)

    Because of the earlier problem with the turn signal, I am guessing that the switch might be faulty. I did some research online, and many others reported similar problems with their Mazdas where their taillights and dashboard lights would stop working. Any ideas what the reason might be?
  • vashtievashtie Posts: 10
    I recently had the same problems with my 95 626. You most likely need to replace the combination switch. This requires pulling the sterring wheel to access the switch. Recommend you find a combination switch from a reputable salvage part dealer since a new combination switch from the dealer will likely be well over $300. My switch cost about $100 and came with a 3 month warranty. You can find sources on the internet. Mine came from a mazda parts dealer in Atlanta..mazdamart..that specializes in mazda parts. Good luck.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    My 4 - cyl. 5 - speed 2002 626 with 110000 km sometimes makes a grinding noise when downshifting into first gear at low speed. I cannot figure out what causes this. The noise is like trying to put a car into gear without engaging the clutch - the sound of the gears not meshing together. Suggestions?
  • I had the same clunking noise coming from the trunk area on my 2000 626. I read on another forum it is the sway bar bushings that could cause that. I changed them out and it fixed the problem.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,624
  • i've taken my car to 2 different mechanics for this code and they havent been able to find the problem.it has to do with the catalyst but i've replaced it .
  • I have a 98 Mazda 626 and the brake lights quit working. I have checked the fuse under the dash and it is still good. I think it is highly unlikely that all three brake lights burned out at the same time, but that is what I plan to check next. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there something else I should be looking at?

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • nik8nik8 Posts: 9
    My 2000 626(79k miles) shudders quite violently at around 40-45mph. Typically I lift my foot off the gas pedal and sometimes do this a couple of times to get past the shudder. Pepboys told me today(90 bucks for telling me this) that the torque converter is shattering and recommended that I take it to a tranny shop.
    Anybody on this board have any advice/experience on what kind of bill I'm looking at? I'm in the Dallas area so if anybody can recommend any local shop here I'd appreciate it.

    Any other advice/comments would be highly appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    105,000 miles for the first timing belt change. the belt still looked good. I replaced it with a Mazda OEM belt. I bought a timing belt kit from Auto zone that included the idler pulleys, because those were prohibitively expensive from Mazda. Did not use the timing belt in the kit though.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You could have an internally leaking clutch master cylinder, which causes the clutch not to release fully when the clutch pedal is pressed.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    Thanks so much for the tip, and I will have it verified by my mechanic at next service. I would like to take this opportunity to thank you, p100, for your excellent and detailed advice on all matters 626 . Noteworthy is message #2237 concerning the requiremmet of a special tool for the harmonic balancer removal when changing the timing belt. It is so important to get your vehicle serviced by a good mechanic, and the best way to find one is by personal referral from someone who knows about cars.
  • I don't know anything about my girlfriends 626, other then I have made every attempt possible to not work on it, but it's sitting on a major road, last night a belt broke, I was told it had s serpentine belt, but It doesn't appear like that's correct, seeing there is still a belt that is not broke, this appears to be the belt that runs the Alternator maybe? I have to fix this myself, and can't even figure out what belt's this car runs, when the belt broke, the battery light came on, and the tempeture shot up and floored out, can anybody throw me a crumb??? Please, I've gotta get this car running, and am not having any luck getting started, why is this car so hard to find out information about? thank you, please help!!!
  • car runs great except, it idles about 2400 rpm on cold start up and will eventually slow down to around 700 rpm after 4 to 5 minutes. It also takes about 2 to 3 times longer than normal for the engine to idle down after being reved up. ( cold or hot doesn't matter? ) If I unplug the idle control valve, both of these problems go away, but then the engine won't idle without dieing.
    No codes in memory.
    thanks in advance,
    firefighterfox
  • I had a similar problem with a Toyota Corolla. One of the wires had come loose on the lights themselves and the entire back end quit working. (Also melted the light housing, no fire fortunately.)
  • Probably not, pulling the springs off the old struts and putting the springs back on the new struts is labor intensive and dangerous.
  • Hi there,

    Does it still pull to the right on accell and then left on letup?

    I ask because I have a similar problem with 2 of my vehicles and have heard it can be caused by worn motor mounts.

    Thanks
  • No clue dadio, I just recently discovered that water or some other liquid is getting in my trunk on the passenger side. Pull up the carpet a little bit in the trunk and see if the felt underneath is wet on the passenger side.

    Is the antenna back there? I wonder if that is the cause. I have so many problems I am working on right now that it is a low priority at the moment. (The car is in my garage and safe from more rain too.)
  • I had a quite similar problem where I was driving my 626 up a long grade (crossing the rockies) with a LOT of weight on it. There was a loud bang sound, and I pulled off at the next service station. There was transmission fluid all over the engine block. It looked like at least a quart had exploded from somewhere. I never could find the cause, so it must have been one of those seals going back into place. The tranny ran much better after the burp too.
  • I think my auto transmission is shot on my 1998 Mazda 626 LX with 163,000 miles on it. I did replace a Speed Sensor and a Throttle Position Sensor about 5,000 & 10,000 miles ago when I thought I was having transmission problems at that time....but the sensor replacements made my problems disappear. Other than the transmission the car is in great shape, inside & out. Is it worth putting a junk yard transmission into it for $1,200 or having a rebuilt transmission for around $2,000 put into it. I don't know how long these Mazda 626's go for mileage wise? Coincidentally, 10 days before I had transmission problems, I ran over a dead deer (it had just been hit) and I had to straddle it and it rumbled under the car. Could the deer have caused something to break in the transmission?
    Any help or guidance would be apprectiated.
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