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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • riswami1riswami1 Posts: 27
    I have a 95 MX-6, with the 4 banger and 5 speed manual. The car has 186,000 and runs like new. I also consistenly get 31 to 34 mpg.This car is the same as a 626 mechanically.If you find a good one used grab it. The only issue I'm aware of with these cars is automatic transmissions.

    Mine was hit a couple of times and the body work repair was not up to spec. I plan on driving it until it dies and I get hit with a repair that makes sense to say I'm better off putting the money into a new vehicle.
  • hi. came back once again with a problem. im working on my mazda 626 and im replacing the cv joints. im stuck on the driver's side right now because i cant seem to get the cv joint out of the transmission. the new one just has a metal ring around the shaft that goes into the transmission. is there any special tool i need or do i just keep beating on it with a prybar and a sledge hammer?
  • peterp96apeterp96a Posts: 4
    I had same problem before too. I took the card to shop, the mechanic just beated on it with a prybar, chain and a sledge hammer.
  • ..........and thats what it took. i got that sucka off. i just beat on it until fiunally it gave. the passenger side was a whole lot easier. it rides so much better now. thanks for the help.
  • vashtievashtie Posts: 10
    My left taillight is broken and needs to be replaced. Before I attempt to replace it, appreciate advice on how to replace it. I have a replacement unit.

    Thanks/Vashtie
  • misticmindmisticmind Posts: 3
    My car would shift out of gear as in going into neutral then it would kick back in. My transmission has been recently rebuilt. Same problem occuring. Said I needed to bring it to Mazda to get it checked before they would re-open my transmission. Mazda said it was the transmission - however when they were testing electricals - the code for the TRansmission Range Switch was identified - Mazda said current is flowing all is ok with switch. Transmission place brought my car to another garage to get the switch checked - guess what - faulty switch - they say - picking up my car to test it tonight. $3000 dollars later..... :mad: This may be your problem - might want to get it checked out.
  • savvyboysavvyboy Posts: 10
    Recently, due to my return to college, I sold my 98 Honda Civic because the payments were high. I bought a 97 626 LX with low miles pretty cheap - THIS IS THE BIGGEST MISTAKE I HAVE EVER MADE!!! I have had the car for a week, and I can't even get a MA inspection sticker. The starter and the cadaliddic (?) converter need to be replaced. Because I bought the car in NH, I have no recourse. Is anyone else having such problems? The car has only 27,000 miles on it. I think I have been hosed!

    My '97 has 170,000 trouble free miles. A shame that you happened to have purchased a vehicle with that problem.
  • ashleydw85ashleydw85 Posts: 6
    I just got a 2000 Mazda 626 and after driving it for a couple days, it will not go into reverse. When I test drove it everything was fine. Does anyone know what would cause this or how to fix it w/ out going to a dealership?
  • joelleinjoellein Posts: 7
    Manual or automatic transmission? If it's a manual, try changing the transmission oil to one of the newer versions. Also, I used to have a '94 Protege that was balky to get into reverse (manual tranny). The Mazda dealer service dept put in a mixture of 50% regular gear oil and 50% automatic tranny fluid....really worked well.
  • ashleydw85ashleydw85 Posts: 6
    It's an automatic. I think the transmission filter is clogged. Know how I could change that without having to take it to a dealership? Everywhere I call says it's a non-serviceable transmission and that I have to take it to a dealer.
  • chops1223chops1223 Posts: 2
    I bought my 96 mazda 626 2.0 liter 2 years ago with 53,000 miles on it. Ever since I bought it i've been having minor problems with it.. The right axle was replaced 3 times and still clicks when i turn the wheel. But my main problem is the idling on the car. It got so bad that it actually dropped so low my car stalled. Took it to the mechanic and he screwed with the idle to make it a bit higher but not too much. Its been fine. It still shakes. The car runs great when its cold out.. but what car doesnt.. Now that the summer is coming around, i'm starting to get worried cuz the car runs very rough especially when the car is stopped..brake or in park... it shakes and sounds like its putt'n out. It's eatin my gas the hell up. My mechanic says its because my valve cover wasn't sealed correctly and there is oil getting into my spark plugs... hopefully this helps... he's only charging me 280 for all of this.. he's done many things for free on this car in the past. so i don't mind. But if this doesn't work then im shooting for a new car. Hard tho, cuz we really don't have the money for that or even to get this one fixed... Mazda... needs to do a whole bunch of recalls cuz this is horrible... so many problems i read about. :mad:
  • i have a 1991 mazda and the left turn signel dosnt work i think it makes the sound but none of the left bliners blink

    and i checked the blinker lights and the front right was out

    could this be why its not blinking at all not even on the dash.
  • you might have to turn the timming up
    i had the same thing

    do u own a timing gun

    if you dont then you would have to play it by ear

    frist you losen the distributor just to the point were you can move it.

    your going to want to turn it troweds the car but not to much.

    also when is the last time you change the plugs and wires

    and change your oil?
  • i have a 1991 mazda and the left turn signel dosnt work i think it makes the sound but none of the left bliners blink

    and i checked the blinker lights and the front right was out

    could this be why its not blinking at all not even on the dash.
  • HEllo,

    I noticed someone had the same problem I'm expereiencing and am wondering if they were successful in getting the matter fixed. I went to Mazda, they charged me $300 to tell me I need a new transmission. THe car drives perfectly fine, and when I put the gear in reverse it kicks like it wants to move, but the sits there.
  • chops1223chops1223 Posts: 2
    I dont own a timing gun but i know a few folks that do.
    the last time i changed my plugs and wires was probably january or feb 07.. not too long ago.. my car wouldnt start and it had just snowed so it sat for a couple days and the i bought both and some mechanic changed it for me. And i change my oil every 3 thou miles but i think ima hav to start changing sooner and more often.
    ima try what you said tho..
    thanks for the info
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    My daughter has a 99 626ES V6 with 111k miles. When stopped at a red light, the temperature gauge climbs rapidly to the top of the range, but not high enough to max out the gauge or cause any idiot lights to come on. As soon as we take off driving again, it drops back into the normal range fairly quickly as well. Car is up to date on mainenance, including recent replacement of all belts about 3 months ago. And, the electric fans are both operating. Could the car be needing a radiator flush and fill and a new thermostat?
  • joelleinjoellein Posts: 7
    My guess is you have a bad water pump....better get it checked out asap.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    You might find this helpful:

    http://www.troubleshooters.com/toverheat.htm

    Just as a general rule, your symptoms are signs of a cooling fan/shroud problem.

    "Serious overheating in heavy traffic but not in open driving is an indication to investigate the fan, fan clutch or motor or relay, or shroud. Some cars have two fans, and both should be on if the engine is hot."

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    MODERATOR

  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    A follow-up to my earlier post. I have discovered that the coolant reservoir tank has developed a small leak. Since the tank was actually dry earlier (hard to tell with the tank being white instead of a clear plastic), I was not able to see a leak, but after filling the tank back up, it is definitely leaking. I believe this is a common problem on the 626. Thanks for the input I did receive.
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