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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • jaque4ujaque4u Posts: 2
    I've searched as many posts as I could tolerate and didn't see these symptoms. Interior power works until ignition turned on, then no power and no crank from motor. Don't really hear any clicking from starter area, but some noise from whatever relay is on engine side firewall in front of driver. Months ago had problem with it cranking but not starting when raining. Replaced dist. cap, no fix. Thoughts were bad ignition coil, but problem went away when I sprayed some silicone on the coil. Tested resistance to 0.8 between green and brown terminals, and 8400K between neg. and pos. Could bad coil also cause a no crank condition? It's kinda hard to weasel to starter and test for power, but I suppose that should be my first step. Need an extra body and contortable limbs for that though. Twice when I removed battery cables and re-attached, it started. Eventually went to no crank again after several starts.
  • usmczx3usmczx3 Posts: 1
    have you figured out what the problem was? I'm trying to help out a neighbor with the same problem with a 94 mazda mx-6 with 160K miles, manual trans. He ask me to help him replace a bad water pump & we decided to replace the timing belt also. all the marks lined up so the car started right up but the car ran for 10 minutes then shut off....NO CRANK,replaced starter,distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel pump.....still, NO CRANK!!!!! the car has power up to the second click, then when you actually try and twist the key to start. CLICK.....everything shuts OFF!!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!
  • picked up a jdm FS engine for my blown up 98 lx, installed it, works great! With the engine came a 98 GF4A-EL for a four cylinder, will it work in a V6? if so what ones?
  • A couple months ago, my Mazda 626 2002 began misfiring in random cylinders. New spark plus, wires, coil pack, and everything was put on it. In ran good for about a month and then it started doing the same thing again. We took it to a mechanic who looked at it and said that it was the plugs and wires again. When the plug in the first cylinder was taken out, it was very dark and looked burnt. The other did not. So, we changed the first one and put different wires on once again. It did not fix anything. However all of a sudden, our car started over-heating again. The car began to smoke after just a drive down a 3 mile road. when we looked under the hood, we noticed a hose had a leak in it. There was a small hole and you definitely see antifreeze(i think) leaking out. I do not know the name of this particular hose, but we did put another on it. The car is still overheating nonetheless. We have done the spark plugs and wires...there is plently of coolant in the car. A friend suggested it could be the sensors? I am honestly just fed up with it and just would like some good advise on what I should do. I am planning on taking it to another mechanic and am tempted just to say find out what is wrong and fix it! I hate not knowing a lot about cars, because it seems you can easily be ripped off. help.
  • zillahzillah Posts: 7
    When I try to put gas in my car, the pumps will never stay on. You have to continuously pump the grip. It's at different intervals when it stops but never seems to get a whole gallon in at a time. I have let the tank run very far down too in case it was bad gas already in the tank but that didn't seem to help.

    I've tried three different gas stations, different grades of gas too. At first I thought it was the hot weather expanding the gas but then it has happened each time I've filled the car no matter the weather. One gas attendant said it was because something needed to be cleaned out and it would probably cost $700 in NJ but cheaper in NY.

    Not only do I not want to get ripped off, I want to know what the problem is in case it's an easy fix I can do myself.
  • I have a similar issue, but not exactly the same, with my '01 626 V6. I can put in all but the last gallon and a half with the nozzle on automatic. But, it shuts off early, and I can put in another 1.5 gallons if I run the nozzle manually. I've gotten used to it, but it is kinda annoying to have to stand there and "top off" the tank with 1.5 gallons. Your problem sounds like it might be related, but is much worse. Replace your gas tank, maybe ??
  • twitmetwitme Posts: 7
    Just in case anyone else was having this same problem, I found the solution. The fuel pump needed to be replaced. It wasn't a cheap repair, but my mazda is finally running strong.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for coming back and letting us know.
  • well i have this car for a year now and i could never get this engine light problem fix.....it comes back on and off...wtf? :sick:
  • Anyone knows what is needed to be done at 90,000 miles...i got 92,736 now?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You should be able to look it up in our Tips and Advice section. You can start here: Maintenance Schedules.
  • I know this is a 626 forum but i just joined this website and im a little confused on how to post a question. THe 626 is very similar to my car so i decided to ask the question here. okay welll ....
    I own a mazda mx6. Recently i was told that my catalytic converter was blocked. My car has not been shifting gears and going very sluggish like at times i cannot get it to go above 20 mph. I was wondering if there was a quick fix to this because im about to trade my car for a honda prelude and i have to get it to the guy because we are trading cars. He is aware of the problem but at the moment i just dont think my car will make it there. IF you could let me know if there is any way i can make my car work for a short period of time that would be great. thankyou.
  • two quick fixes... you can take off the cat and brake the silveroxyide screen that runs throw it- the best way is with a drill. or you could just drill some hole into the cat housing but, this could make it to loud to trade in. good luck with the prelude!!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I believe you may have the problem with the tank vent hose or the carbon canister, or associated components. Have those checked.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Have Autozone pull the code for free. You need to know why the engine check light is on to begin with. I have a '99 ES V6 with a 5 speed manual and 176k miles (original owner).

    One issue common to these cars is clogging of the EGR passages in the intake manifold and engine block with carbon. This results in engine light coming on, sometimes intermittently. The code is I believe P400 (insufficient EGR flow). The way to fix this issue is to remove the throttle body and spray carb cleaner into two passages on the bottom of the intake manifold just past the throttle body. These are EGR passages. They run through the manifold and the engine block all the way to the EGR valve. Replacing the EGR valve will not fix this problem! It is an electric valve and very expensive - about $ 350, even from aftermarket sources. So do not replace it unless you are absolutely sure it needs to be replaced.
    But first find out what the trouble code is in your case.

    At 92k miles you should: replace the timing belt if it has not been done already (recommended at 60k), including all three tensioner pulleys. Auto Zone sells a nice timing belt kit that includes the timing belt and all three pulleys for something like $ 100. Do not even try to price these from Mazda, as it will be about $ 700! And bearings wear out in these pulleys believe me! I replaced mine at 105K miles. Also, check the tensioner pulleys on the engine drive belts. The pulley bearings tend to go bad. You can buy replacement bearings, but you need a hydraulic press to pres them in and it is a tricky process. New pulleys are expensive - almost $ 100 a piece. Even aftermarket ones are expensive. You should think about replacing the plug wires if it has not been done already. What about brakes? Are pads in good shape? Check the outer CV joint boots. They often start splitting around 90-100k miles. You may want to change the water pump if you do the timing belt. Be warned - changing the timing belt on this car is not easy! I have done it myself so I know. You need to remove the front engine mount to install a new belt and to replace the water pump. I do not recommend this job to anybody without sufficient experience. You are best off finding a good mechanic to do this. There is a lot of pitfalls associated with this job.
  • I'm not sure if it's relevant but I just had my 1991 626 LX brought into the shop to have the ignition cylinder/keys replaced and the air flow valve because the other one had a leak.

    That said, here's the problem. My fiancee was going to leave for work today and noticed the shoulder restraint motor was moving slowly. She tried starting the car but it wouldn't work. She only got minor accessories - the car would crank but not start. We figured the battery must've gotten drained because the accessories could've been left on over night (our car somehow allows this).

    So I came home to give the car a jumpstart and off to work she went. She called me and said that the car wouldn't start again, so the alternator must not have had a chance to do its job, even though she let it idle for a half hour in addition to the five minute drive to her job. I came over to her place of work to give her another jumpstart and so we went home, with me following in case she got stranded.

    Sure enough, one block from our house, the car died at a stop light. I came around and tried to give her a jumpstart again but this time the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not turn, as if my car's battery weren't connected. We brought the battery to Wal-Mart to have it tested and charged. They gave it a clean bill of health and said it was charged, ready to go. After putting the battery back in the car, it wouldn't even crank. Dead as a doornail.

    This is extremely frustrating, especially after spending over $500 on the above repairs. Does any one have any idea what could be the cause or solution to this problem? Thanks so much!
  • it's hard to say but, it sounds like the ignition is wired wrong. i don't know if the shop did it or not. but rule of thumb if there wasn't a problem before you fixed it than you fixed it wrong. i would take it back, or if your a do it your selfer than try to get a wiring diagram for it. good luck hope this helps.
  • I have a 1998 Mazda 626 ES-V6. It has 174,000miles on it. I have had this problem with the transmission for a month now. It shifts into 2nd but with hesitation. It does not go past second. I had a reconditioned box put in it, still the same story. I was told it is an electrical problem with some sensor, solenoid, or relay. Where are these part located in the car.

    Has any one out there experienced anything like this please.

    Will appreciate if you can share the solution with me....
  • I replaced my radiator some time last year. I don't remember were I got it from and don't have the receipt, but I'm sure I bought the cheapest one I could find. Now the radiator is leaking antifreeze under the transmission tube fitting. I don't want to make the same mistake twice. Can anyone recommend a good radiator or tell me what I should look for when shopping for a replacement radiator.

    Thanks in advance,

    Perry
  • When my car is cold it makes a very high pitch screeching noise at the time of starting. I have Mazda 99 LX 4 cyl. When I use a spray on the belt before starting, this noise goes away and then next day it comes back again. This is going on for more then 2 years now. Is there a way to stop this noise. Any idea of what things it will involve during repair.
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