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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • My car make screeching noise when it is cold and when you start the car in the morning. The noise comes from the belt. I used belt spray for a while, which makes the noise go away for a day but keep coming back the next day.

    Is there a permanent and cheaper solution to resolving this noise from belt.


  • Several aftermarket coolers will fit; you want a small one with sandwich-plate design (looks like a smallish radiator) that plumbs into the existing fluid lines and fits in front of the radiator.

    Mazda at one time had a factory kit for these things, but it was pricey.
  • No sorry the "belt dressing" doesn't really work very well. You can try tightening the belt up a bit but if it is glazed from slipping you have no other choice but to replace it. But check the tightness by all means.
  • Do you think the main problem with these trans is overheating and what are the
    chances that this will fix the problem after it is rebuilt?
  • That's always been my impression. There were some design flaws early on, but most of them had been corrected by 1999 or 2000, and replacement parts have followed the newer, less fragile designs.
  • Ok I have a 94 626 and for some reason the battery continues to drain if the car set more than a couple of days at a time, I have replaced the battery and terminals, and had the alternator tested (it was good) and for some reason when I turn on the headlights it kills the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • midgetmidget Posts: 2
    Hello ev1. I just got a 1989 mazda 626 Lx. It has a hold system button on the drive shifter.So me being me I pressed that button .Now my car won't drive.It goes in all gears but don't move.Anybody got any ideas I would love to hear them. :P
  • midgetmidget Posts: 2
    HELP ME I CAN'T MOVE :mad:
  • lid03lid03 Posts: 2

    Was wondering if anyone knew what this means.. I took my 2005 mazda 626 to get tested and this was the result. PO133 = 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response(Bank 1, Sensor 1) and P1131 = Unknown Troble Code. I have no clue what it means please someone help me understand in plain and simple as possible

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    No such car as a 2005 626. Do you have a Mazda 6?

    Code P0133

    Possible defects:

    bad front 02 sensor
    front 02 heater malfunction
    loose front 02 sensor
    pressure regulator malfunction
    fuel pump malfunction
    fuel filter clogged
    fuel leakage
    leaky exhaust sytem
    purge solenoid valve malfunction (evaporative emissions system)
    insufficient engine compression
    engine defect--leaking coolant into engine.
  • lid03lid03 Posts: 2
    Sorry its a 2000 mazda 626 .
  • :confuse: I recently purchased a 2000 Mazda 626 LX w/AT and 4cyl. The car had a rough idle untill I replaced the spark plugs and plug wires. The reason I replaced them was, A:the rough idle problem, and B: the car began to hesitate when downshifting on inclines. This seemed to fix the problem for a while and it was VERY apparent that the previous owner had not changed them in quite some time... The hesitation problem has returned a month later. I ran a scan and it said misfire detection on cylinder 1, and later on cylinders 2 & 3. I replaced the coil/ic module, catalytic converter, and fuel filter. The only thing that helped was the fuel filter replacement, which only helped a little... I have ran a check on MAF, fuel pressure, and fuel pressure regulator vacuum control valve, and all check out fine...
    I AM BAFFLED!!! Any suggestions??? Thank you for ANY advice.

    PS the car runs fine untill I am on an incline or push the accelorator far enough to activate the passing gear...
  • I have had similar problems of late with my 2000 626, and the first thing I would reccomend would be a Shop manual, or haynes repair manual. That being said, I replaced the plugs with Bosch platinum plus4 fusion, and NGK HP wires... Problem went away for a month and returned in full swing. I replaced the coil for 50 bucks, the catalytic converter, and tested my MAF sensor, to no avail... Good luck and if you figure something out on yours, let me know... :(
  • Recently I have noticed my car isn't heating up as quickly as I think it should. The temperature gauge seems to be moving to the normal range but the air blowing is cold. Once I get on the interstate and keep moving it gets warm and temp can be regulated lower for comfort.

    Most of what I read regarding thermostat indicates the gauges moving to overheat states or not to normal temp. Could it be lacking water/antifreeze mix? or some other issues?

  • I have a 99 mazda 626 4 cylinder it overheated on the express way and shut off now it wont start. had to have it towed back home, i fixed the leak it had, one of the small radiator hoses behind the exhaust manifold was cracked,I also replaced the spark plugs but still wont start, it cranks but will not start. I charged the battery and still it cranks but will not start. I took off the valve cover just to see the timing belt and it looks good its even tight so Can anyone help me with this problem?
  • When my 2000 mazda 626 would crank but not turn over, it was my fuel pump. I didn't have any overheating issues, it could be two issues you had.

  • kg_6933kg_6933 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 mazda 626 and it just stopped running. The check engine light has been on only for a couple of days and I replaced the coil, thats not the problem, what else could it be?? Please help
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Slow warmup indicates that the thermostat is sticking partially open or opening too soon. Replace the thermostat.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have 193k miles on my '99 ES V6 5 speed and it is still running great. There are some issues/ maintenance tips associated with this car that I want to share:

    1. This engine (2.5 liter , 24 valve V6) likes premium 93 octane. It performs better and gets better fuel economy. I get 25-26 MPG consistently in city driving with A/C on all the time (in Florida). Do not use regular gas if you have this engine. Mazda recommends premium fuel for best performance and there is a reason for it. My car seems to like BP, Sunoco , and Mobil fuels the best for some reason. Stay away from no name brand gas stations.

    2. Use a bottle of Chevron Techron injector cleaner in your gas tank about every 4k miles. Mix with approximately 8 gallons of gas and drive until the tank is almost empty. This cleaner does marvels when used regularly and keeps injectors clean. I have never had injectors cleaned int his car and the engine is silky smooth.

    3. Change spark plug leads and spark plugs about every 60k miles. There is a good reason for this. The plugs are located in deep wells betweent he cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to very high temperatures, so they degrade over time. Use the recommended OEM Denso plugs. Bosh plugs are not recommended for these engines and do not perform too well in them. OEM Denso plugs are expensive, but you can get them at a much more reasonable cost from (about $ 7 per plug vs $ 19 per plug from your Mazda dealer). A set of OEM plug leads for the 6 cylinder is about $ 130 right now. I have fooud that the electrode gap on the spark plugs increases from 0.030 spec gap to 0.060 inches in about 60k miles. So replace the plugs every 60k.

    4. This particular car has a design flaw with the EGR engine block passages. These passages are too narrow and get caked with carbon over time. The EGR valve itself is practically bulletproof - it is ab electrically ooperated, liquid cooled valve. If you get the engine code P400 (insufficient EGR flow), most often this means clogged EGR passaged throughout the engine block. The solution is to remove the throttle body, and the upper intake manifold, get a small caliber gun (like22) cleaning brush and throughly brush the ERG passage in the engine block and the intake manifold and liberally spray out with carburetor cleaner. You will need to replace one throttle body gasket, and two intake manifold gaskets, and well as two fuel banjo fitting copper washers. This is the only way to do this right. Cleaning only the EGR passage opening in the intake manifold just past the throttle body will work only for a while.

    5. Coolant overflow bottle: This is a defective item on this model and Mazda should be ashamed that they sell such junk as a replacement part. I have installed 5 of these coolant overflow reservoirs on my car by now, because each lasts about 18 months before it develops a slow leak. Mazda dealer admits there is a problem and they keep these things in stock. The price is outrageous - about $ 90 list price.

    6. Brakes are practically bulletproof on this model - I am on the second set of pads and still original brake rotors at 193K miles. There is still life left in the pads and rotors are not distorted or grooved.

    7. There are no issues with the manual transaxle, but the clutch master cylinders are not that reliable - the seals in mine failed after 130k miles. When this happens, the clutch will not release and you cannot drive the car.

    8. The A/C compressor clutch bearing failed on mine at 135 K miles and it destroyed the compressor shaft seal, so i had to buy a new compressor.

    9. There OEM CV joints/axles are of low quality and upgrading them is a good idea.

    10. Change oil frequently, and use only Mazda OEM oil filters or a good aftermarket filter with an anti drain membrane. This keeps the oil from draining from the cylinder head when the engine is shut off, preventing oil starvation of sensitive cam journal bearings when starting a cold engine.

    11. Replacing the timing belt on this car is not easy and you should also replace the cam and front crank oil seal, water pump and all three tensioner timing belt pulleys. Auto Zone offers a timing belt kit for this car that contains all three tensioner pulleys and the belt for about $ 100. These pulleys from Mazda are outrageously expensive - they were about $ 180 a piece about 5 years ago. I replace the timing belt on this car every 105k miles, although they recommend it every 60k miles. However, Mazda sells only one timing belt - and it is a 105k miles belt, as some state require the timing belt replacement interval to be that.

    My engine runs strong at 193k miles - I see no degradation in mileage or performance. The engine does not use oil and does not smoke upon startup. I am still on the original radiator, alternator, and starter. The original paint is of excellent quality and still shiny after all these years in harsh Florida sun. Of course, I wash the car frequently by hand and use ZipCar wash wax containing soap, which keeps the paint looking like new.
  • mikeinhomikeinho Posts: 1
    My car overheats when i drive, it cools down a lil bit when im stopped or i let go of the gas for a period of time, but everytim i accelerate the car goes well past the H, i checked my coolant system and at first my reservoir was empty and my radiator full, when the car overheated, everything that was in the radiator went to the reservoir and made it over flow, and my hoses were collapsed, anybody know what the problem might be?

    -Fans work
    -Coolant full
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