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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You may have the thermostat stuck closed, improperly installed thermostat, or a failing water pump (e.g. broken impeller). Also the radiator core may be badly plugged with scale. Remove the radiator and have it flow tested by a good radiator shop.
  • galcalagalcala Posts: 4
    hello, I was searching for information on a little trouble im having with my girlfriends car when I came accross Carspace. first i would like to say this is a great site with tons of info. now my troubles.
    she owns a 96 626, on friday it started shaking a little, we thought it was just due to it being a bit overdue for a tuneup so on saturday I gave it the treatment, plugs, wires, cap rotor, filters etc. well it didnt fix the problem the car idles like crap and wont stay at steady RPM fluctuating between 500 and 750 and dying out, funny thing is that once i get it on the road it rides really really good no issues no sputtering, no hesitation, runs like a dream. check engine light was on so I took it to autozone and they said it was a misfire but I check and rechecked every ignition component with no luck. so again car runs near excellent at speed but Idles really bad. can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    general misfire code could be anything related to fuel mixture as well as spark.

    You might check for a bad vacuum leak somewhere. That would give you all the symptoms you mention as well as correct itself at highway speeds.

    Also a clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve or tubing.

    MODERATOR

  • galcalagalcala Posts: 4
    thanks Mr. Shiftright, Ill check it today. can it be cleaned with carb cleaner or the like?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Yeah but that doesn't always work. There are also tests for the EGR valve which is usually vacuum operated. Vacuum leaks can be detected using a carb cleaner or a smoke machine, which you probably don't have!

    MODERATOR

  • galcalagalcala Posts: 4
    Thanks. Ill check it to see what can be done, as for me not having a smoke machine, well not unless you count my old ford ranchero lol.

    thanks again.
  • This is very similar to my original problem which has progressed into a a hesitation so bad that it is almost undriveable... What is the basic Idea behind the process of using carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak? After everything I have checked I am leaning towards a vacuum leak, or a bad MAF, which tests good, but I stiff have a gut feeling that it could be part of my problem. :confuse:
  • This is very similar to my original problem which has progressed into a a hesitation so bad that it is almost undriveable... What is the basic Idea behind the process of using carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak? After everything I have checked I am leaning towards a vacuum leak, or a bad MAF, which tests good, but I stiff have a gut feeling that it could be part of my problem. :confuse:
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    When a bit of carb cleaner is sprayed into the intake of an engine, the engine RPMs will surge faster for a couple of seconds. When there is a vacuum leak, air is sucked into the engine through places where it should not come in. This could cause hesitation, overheating, emissions and other problems.
    Use carb cleaner to spray shots around suspected leaky parts. If the engine surges, then you found your leak. I found out that my throttle body was missing its gasket this way.
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    Your going to have to post more info. When it stopped running, do you mean the engine cut off or the transmission won't engage. When you turn the key, does anything happen? Does the car start? If so, how long does it run before cutting off?...Feel free to add as many detail as you can.
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    That tube transports hot oil vapors to the engine intake. It's parts of the emissions system and has nothing to do with coolant (unless you've blown a head gasket).

    If you smell coolant, then either someone spilled coolant during a recent servicing or you have a leak that needs to be found and fixed before enough coolant leaks out to overheat your engine.
  • charbcharb Posts: 1
    My son just purchased a 2000 626 V6 with a 5-speed manual transmission. I have been looking just so I can feel good that he found a reliable car, and find all of this negative info about this vehicle's transmission problems. Just wondering...are the problems I read about associated with all transmissions in this car or just the automatic? Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this for me.
  • joelleinjoellein Posts: 7
    I had the same question when I bought my used 2001 626 V6. My Mazda dealer (not where I bought the car) service manager told me it was just the automatic tranny.
  • I have a Mazda 626 2.0tdi dated 1998, over 300.000Km Is an european model
    When the engine run for a long time, for example 1-2 hours of highway drive,if I stop it an restart , even within only some seconds, it never start again. The first times it happen, I need to wait 5-10 minutes, now I have to pass a intere night to cool down , and then restart. The only way to start the engine when is hot, is a starter spray (wurth fast start) in the air input (removing air filter). A garage man says that is the tank pump that have a pressure to low. This can be, but I don't understand ho can the engine run for hours at 130km/h without problems, and stopping it for a second cause the no start. Any idea
    Thanks a lot
    Alberto
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There are no issues with the V6 manual transmissions. I have a '99 ES V6 5 speed with 196k miles and no problems with the manual transmission. The only problem I had was with the clutch master cylinder seals, which failed at about 130K and clutch pedal sank to the floor, making the car undriveable. . But this is a relatively inexpensive repair requiring either the cylinder rebuild or a new cylinder which costs about $ 100.
  • 626rock626rock Posts: 1
    Have the same issues with my 99LX and now my 2002 ES. Doesnt make a cuckoo noise, but rattles like crazy. Both car did/do the same thing. I agree with another poster that the strut towers seem to be the culprit. It is an annoying noise.
  • Thank you very much, I understand the idea now. This should be very handy in troubleshooting my problem! :)
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    I too had those pesky gremlins in our DoubleOught 626 from day one. Dealer could Not reproduce in shop! The rattle is not constant but annoying non the less.80k
    had rear struts replaced,no change in rattle.Mechanic said "sounds like a loose
    body panel"
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    My daughter's 99 V6 has developed a surge when idling with the a/c on. Idle jumps from normal 750 range to 1700 (and as high as 2000) as the compressor cycles. No CEL is on, and there has not been any recent work on the car. Anyone else experienced this? The car has approx 120k. Timing belt was replaced at 105k as recommended in the book, along with the other belts. Car runs fine otherwise, and no surge is noticed while driving, just while at idle, in gear or park.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I never experienced that with my "99 ES V6 with 198K+ miles on it. The normal idle variation with A/C compressor cycling is about 700 -1000 RPM. My car has a 5 speed manual transmission.

    I believe there is an idle control valve on this car - you may have a problem in that area.
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