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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I thought about the idle air control valve as a possibility. On my Explorer, when this part went out, the truck would just die at idle though.
  • mvperez4jesusmvperez4jesus Posts: 231
    I own a Mazda 626 LX V6 1998 and i have the following problems:
    for the past 4-5 years i had been getting the check engine light with the P1131 code. it is suppose to be an idicator of one of your oxygen sensors. I have replaced that Oxygen sensor in 4 occassions, and all of them twice already ever since. As i write i still get the light on. The light will go away for a few months but will return.
    It drives me crazy.

    The other problem is a noise that i guees is something lose in the back. Muffler? it makes a noise (its a metal). 2 dift. mechanics tried to solve the issues, but nothing. THey both said that it was not the suspension.

    third i have replaced the reservoir 3 times, and over heated 3 more times due to other leakeage. its a pain, since i don't know what is trigerring this. fans are working and thermostat is doing well.

    hesitation, high rpm's, bad fuel economy 12.5 city and 24 highway had been an issue from day one. used premium for all these years. not sure waht is wrong. i am sort of ready to sell this car, but if there was something to fix this one.

    i have seen that some people have posted to have the same problems and so on. also cars with 196000 miles on it. quite honestly, if i had that many in my car, i would not mind if my car broke on me. No disrispect, but i think that's a lot of miles on a car.

    but anyway, if anyone can help me, it will greatly appreciated. I only putting about 5000 miles per year lately, so if the car was to give an extra 2-3 yrs i wouldn't mind. specially as the economy goes. but if not, i wouldn't mind to pull the trigger on a accor 08 or a camry 09.

    power windows are the other issue, but i don't care so much about that one yet.

    my car is 115,600 miles.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    Hello p100 and thanks once again for your fabulous efforts in informing 626 owners about the ins and outs of car care.

    I have had no real issues with my 626, and I am quite pleased with the car. I do not do my own maintenance, but I have a mechanic who is a family friend and whose family has been in business in my area of Montreal for fifty years - he is fantastic.
    My car is the 2.0 L 4-cyl. with 5-speed. Some questions:

    Would this motor benefit from the injector cleaner, as your 2.4 does? What about the EGR passages with the 2.0 L? I would imagine the coolant overflow bottle is the same on my car, so I'll mention it to my mechanic. I would imagine the AC compressor is the same, so I'll keep an eye on that as well. The rest of what you mention is regular maintenance. I am really easy on the clutch, and it's friction point is still very close to the floorboard. I never ride the clutch or lug the car, two practices that must be followed to extend clutch life. My car currently is at 150 K km.

    My main concern is with the suspension. The roads in Montreal are horrendous, this city has to be the pothole capital of the world. I would love to upgrade the suspension to handle the brutal pounding on the chassis. Right now, I need bushings for the trapezoidal links in the rear (done 30 K km ago). I have done one CV, and there is a noise from the other one. My mechanic is suggesting new shocks, but the labor cost is high. Do you know of any high quality, heavy duty, lifetime guarantee stuff out there for the suspension? I would be willing to invest in new shocks, but what kind and is there a benefit, other than improved ride quality? Can you do two shocks at a time instead of all four in one shot?

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes, your injectors would benefit from using Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner.

    The EGR passages on the 4 cylinder engine are probably different than on the 6 cylinder engine. The intake manifold has those passages as well, as it is definitely different on the V6 engine. The manifold passages appear to be the main culprit. Do not worry about these passages unless your engine check light comes on and you get the appropriate code for the "low EGR flow".

    The coolant overflow bottle is also different on the 6 cylinder, but is is entirely possible that it is made by the same company. Again do not worry about it unless you see a leak (coolant disappearing from the bottle).

    The A/C compressor may be the same and the problem I had was the bearing itself on the compressor clutch assembly pulley. I live in a very corrosive area, and park my car very close to the Atlantic ocean at work. So the car is exposed to salt spray that probably penetrated the bearing and shortened its life. The rest of the compressor looked very good when I disassembled it.

    As for the suspension, I think that Mazda OEM McPherson struts are quite good in quality, and relatively inexpensive. You can replace two at a time, provided it is a front or rear pair. When changing the front struts, also replace the upper mount bearings, which are plastic on these cars. They wear out and cause groaning noise when you make a sharp turn. When front and rear struts wear out, you will have decreased ride quality and most likely wheel hopping phenomenon, which often results in unpleasant vibration. So replacing the worn struts with new ones also helps keep the wheels firmly planted on the road, where they belong.

    As for CV joint boots, it is cheaper to replace the entire axle with good rebuilt units. It takes a while to remove each joint from the axle, and clean it out properly to reboot it. Labor being expensive, it is therefore cheaper to install a rebuilt unit. You can also find new CV axles at remarkably low prices. I found a set for $ 50/piece, and there was no core charge.

    Note: I am now about 750 miles away from the 200k mark with my car. Hopefully, it will make it to 200k without any incident. I recently cleaned the EGR passages. I had to remove the intake manifold and the EGR valve for this job and it was not pleasant. But it is done and hopefully good for a long time.
  • km_626km_626 Posts: 2
    I have a piece of Sh%t 2000 Mazda 6262 LX v6. I have the same problem. Take a look at the Emissions Control Valve. You can find the part for about $200 generally. As far as labor that depends on where you get it fixed.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Today I finally hit the 200k mile mark on my car (1999 ES V6, 5 speed manual transmission). I bought the car new and I am the only one who drives it. I still get 25-26 MPG city with A/C on.

    Hopefully it will continue serving me well.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    Thanks so much. I can see that you, like I, believe in maintaining your vehicle. People complain all the time about spending money on a car, however, cars are expensive. I purchased my '02 for in '06 for $9000, so at this price, I don't mind budgeting for maintenance. What would a new car cost on interest payments alone?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If you finance about $20k over a 5 year loan with say 7% annual interest, you'll pay about $ 5,000 just in finance charges.
  • kew423kew423 Posts: 1
    Yesterday as I was driving my car (100,333 miles on it) the power died and the clutch went all the way to the floor. The clutch doesn't seem to work now. Is this an issues with the master cylinder or transmission? Any idea if I will need a new clutch and the cost?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Most likely the internal clutch master cylinder seals failed. This only affects the clutch release hydraulic circuit, not the clutch itself. The same thing happened to my car at 130k miles. Mazda 626 does not have the best clutch master cylinders or slave cylinders. You need to either install a new master/slave cylinders, or have them rebuilt. Then you need to bleed the lines to get rid of trapped air. Do not let them talk to you into replacing the clutch without fixing the clutch release mechanism first!

    If you needed a new clutch, the cost of replacing one at a dealer (parts plus labor is about $ 800). This does not include replacing/rebuilding the master or slave cylinders. And it does not include machining or replacing the engine flywheel if it needs it.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    p100 is correct. If your clutch failed the symptom would not be the pedal going quickly to the floor and staying there. The pedal itself would feel quite normal even with a burned out clutch. So it's a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue, we suspect.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,618
    Left front tire on my 2000 626 ES I4, 97k miles, with 16" factory alloys is losing air, down nearly 14 pounds in one week, just sitting on a driveway. Had a tire shop check it a couple of weeks ago, and they said it looked ok and they couldn't see any leak. It has been patched before. If I have to buy a new tire (actually at least two), I will, but I don't want to do that then find out the problem is with the alloy wheel. I've heard (and the tire dealer mentioned) that sometimes alloy wheels can develop leaks. Anyone hear of that happening with the 626's wheels? (Cosmetically they are in excellent shape.) And if the wheel is leaking, is there any way to repair it?

    My son drives this car 210 miles each way to college, so I need to do something before he goes back in August--I don't want it blowing on the freeway.
  • kitchen33kitchen33 Posts: 1
    i want to put the 2.5 liter v6 motor in my car because im tired of the 4 cylinder, i was wanting to know if the v6 would mount straignt on to the transmission that is in the car already
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Have them take the tire off the rim and carefully inspect on the inside. How did they patch the tire last time? With a plug or patch or patch/plug combo? I have seen patches applied to the inside of the tire curl up and start leaking shortly after being applied because of poor surface preparation, and if they were too close to the sidewall. It is also possible that you can have a piece of wire of thin nail in the thread and you cannot see it.

    I seriously doubt your rim is leaking, unless it is severely rusted in the bead area or dented.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    This will not work. The transaxles are different, especially the automatic version, wiring harness is different, engine management computer is probably different, exhaust is different, V6 cars have four wheel disc brakes, bigger diameter axle shafts, bigger radiators, etc.

    This project is not worth even attempting, unless you had a complete V6 donor car that you could use the parts from. Older V6 Mazda 626s are cheap to buy. Sell yours and find a decent V6.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,618
    Thanks very much for the reply. The tire shop did inspect the rim, said it looked OK. They said the patch looked OK too, but it might be hard to spot a slow leak. They did not patch the tire before, another shop did (it was some kid, on a Sunday, so not sure what kind of quality job they did). Not sure what kind of patch it is.

    The wheel doesn't seem to be rusted or dented, and the tire shop didn't see anything. What I'll probably do is take it back there and have them inspect the wheel again, and if it looks good go ahead and buy 2 new tires for the front.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Another possibility is that somebody damaged the tire bead when they removed and reinstalled the tire last time. If they did not use soapy water to lube the tire bead, they could have made a tear in the bead, which will then cause a slow leak
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    My daughter has a 99 626 ES V6 that is having an unusual idle issue. When the A/C is on and car is either in park or stopped, the idle will surge as high as 1800 rpm. While driving it is fine, only when parked or sitting at a traffic light. Anyone else have an issue like this? Could it be the IAC Valve (I hope not)? This problem does not happen with a/c off. Car has 125k and has been very well maintained by us. As an example, when she gets in and starts the car up each day, as soon as she turns on the a/c it immediately surges.
  • I'm gonna beg for some new Ideas here. We're working on getting this car running after the owner installed a salvage yard motor himself, and after repairing all other possible causes, we're starting to conclude that the final problem remains in the fuel rail. we belive that either the regulator is bad, or all the injectors are faulty. Here's a rundown of the situation:

    fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs, wires, converter

    checked and found correct:
    timing belt and timing marks, fuel pressure, Injector pulse, injector resistance reading, spark from coil pack.


    standing fuel in all cylinders after attempt to start, no fuel pressure or flow on return line after the regulator, full 80 psi to all injectors, when running, runs at 300-500 rpm, but only on 2 cyl.

    any help will be greatfully accepted!!!!!
  • Have you checked the effects of disconneting the Air flow sensor on top of the air filter housing? If the engine runs better or the same, this may be your problem.
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