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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • kellij2kellij2 Posts: 7
    ok so i have the same car you do but it is a 99. I just replaced the thermostat about 3 months ago because my car started to run hot when i would be stopped at a light or in traffic, but as soon as i would start to drive it would go back to half or under half near the cool side. It is doing it again so now I am wondering if it is a sensor. I had a coolant flush and fill when I replaced the thermostat, it has 131k on it. I don't know what to do with it, but this is a problem I have been having as well. I am not leaking anything and the fans are working.
  • kellij2kellij2 Posts: 7
    I just have had to recently start fixing things in it, overall has been a great car up until the past yr. My EGR valve was stuck open so I bought a new part and had it replaced from my mechanic a little over a year ago. The engine light was on not long after the replacement giving me the same code 400. It was a flow problem. How do I fix this? Also, I just had my thermostat replaced and a flush and fill because my car started to run hot while I was stopped. It just started doing it again, although it isnt everytime I am driving it is so random. Once I start driving again the gage stays at half or towards the cool side. Could this be an oxygen sensor or something with the AC?
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Pulled connector for air flow sensor. Car ran the same, definitely no better. I have also noticed that if I give it gas will idling, instead of the idle settling back down to its higher than normal level, it surges back down, varying between 1000 and 2000 rpm until it settles in the 1000-1200 range. And, again, if I turn the a/c off, it seems to idle as it should, in the 750 range. Check Engine Light is not on at any time. Very strange issue. Any other suggestions are appreciated?? Also, I doubt it is related at all, but I also noticed that the temp guage has a slight flutter to it. It does not hold dead on the indicated temp., but looks like it has a nervous condition. Not flucuating, just not holding steady loke all of my other cars do.
  • I have a 2001 Mazda LX 4D Sedan,4-Cyl, 2.0 Liter, automatic transmission. It has 43,300 miles. The hood vibrates like crazy and my car sounds like an airplane. Does the drive or timing belt(s) need to be replaced? I haven't had much maintenance done on the car besides changing the oil.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Check Engine Light actually came on last night while daughter was driving, and again today. Took it to friendly auto parts place and had code read. It read Code 1131. They printed out a list of potential issues, anything from o2 sensors (night likely), to Mass Airflow Sensor (also not very likely), to a fuel injector issue. Whatever it is, it deals with bank 1. Anyone else have this code come up and figure out how to resolve?
  • I just bought a 1997 mazda 626 the ideling at a stopped position doesn't bother me enough to give up on the car if anyone might know the first place to start I would be deeply thankful

    Also i have read that the 626's have power problems (I have had the experience the windows don't do good if you try to use them all at once and the car doesn't even turn over when the lights are on but that has only happened twice) i'm thinking about putting a new stereo system in it and i didn't know if that was a bad idea reading about the problems people are having
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    This is an unusual noise. It is coming from the front, passenger side, and is only heard when the a/c is on. Sounds almost like a "slapping" type of sound. I suspect belt or pulley related maybe?? There is no other belt type of sound though, such as a screech. Very strange. And, I do not know if related, but when the a/c is on, as the compressor cycles on, the headlights/dash lights will briefly dim. Any ideas on this unusual sound?
  • I belive that the compressor is to blame. the sound you describe along with the time it is apparent are a dead give away, but this is only verifiable by using a mechanic stethescope to probe around the compressor and listen for when the noise is most noticable. and don't just touch the probe to the compressor body and be satisfied, touch it to the front cover of the motor, to the alternator, to the power steering, and so on. By doing this, you'll find the culprit in a hurry. as for the guages and lights dimming, I belive the alternator is being dragged down by whatever is causing the slapping noise. I'd almost bet that when you test spots with the stethescope, you'll find the noise at the compressor, which indicates it's very low on oil, or a mechanical failure. thus, causing the engine to work harder just to turn the AC compressor. a stethescope is about $20 at any parts store.
  • I'd move on this noise right away. If the AC compressor seizes, you have contaminated your entire AC system and then you have a big mess and a BIG expense.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Thanks for responses. After listening closer, the noise seems to be an upper engine noise. Decided to check oil level. Was down about 1/2 quart. Topped off oil, and no more noise at any time now, with or without a/c on, at idle or full throttle. Plus, a/c has never given any indication of an issue with it, still blows nice and cold as it should. I will tell my daughter to listen closely for any sounds from the engine. I probably should add that the car had been sitting for about 5 days without being started when I started it up and heard this "noise".

    Also, I had posted an earlier thread about an idle surge issue. After running some Lucas in the last tank of gas and pulling the negative battery cable to reset computer, no more idle surge.

    Car needs to "survive" one more year of college, and then it is not my problem :) Car has 124k on it now.
  • my power steering been makin horrid noises lately cuz the fluids been leakin i guess now i was drivin and hit a bump then all of a sudden my power steering stopped workin while drivin i could turn but it felt like my car was off and it began to try to over heat. can any1 help me what should i do and will it be expensive
  • Well, if your power steering is leaking, and it's not a small leak that you can just keep filling up before it runs out. Then, I would suggest that you do not drive it at all. The leak came from a bump you stated, maybe a power steering hose got busted, or loose. It could also be the rack and pinion unit got damaged from a big bump too. If you have to keep useing the car, and you can't afford to fix it, then you might be able to remove the power steering belt(only if it's a seperate belt and doesn't power other important parts to) so that the pump won't be running dry, but I'm not sure if that's safe or not, so you might want to get advice from someone else about that.
  • Just started having problems . Put the car in Drive from a standing stop when I hit the gas, the engine revs but is very slow to take off,almost like its in neutral. It does take off, a bit sluggish . At higher speeds, it seems fine. Can anyone help. :mad:
  • I have 2000 626 and this just started on my car. This what I have been told to check, first is to change out the spark plugs. then also change/flush tramsmission fluid and last to make sire that your belt is tightly secured and not loose. The last thing to check is the pully's. Hope this helps
  • cbus722cbus722 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Mazda 626 LX 2.0. Can't get it to pass the emission test. Code PO421 comes up and don't know what it means? Had Code PO133 on the test , but it's not coming up anymore after changing both o2 sensors,spark plugs,new spark plugs wiring. Can you tell me what Code PO421 is?
  • The hood rests on rubber pads that can be adjusted by turning them. If the pads are not making contact with the hood, it will vibrate. The stick (for lack of a better term) that holds up the hood gets loose with age. You can wrap duck tape around the area that rests on the frame.

    Good luck.
  • I have a 1990 Mazda 626 (still). Whenever I turn on the A/C or turn the steering wheel,

    1. the "charge" light and "rear" light come on.
    2. Power steering is lost.

    After I cleaned the battery terminal, this problem only exist when I turn the steering wheel.

    I get 12V when the engine is off and 13.3V when the engine is on. I've taken the battery and alternator out of the car and had them tested at AutoZone. They are both good.

    Thanks in advance.
  • direct a brief spray of carb cleaner around different locations where vacuum hoses attach, around the throttle body and around the manifold. If the is a leak, the engine will surge.

    Good luck.
  • Reset your computer: pull off the negative battery cable. Press the brakes for ~5 seconds.
  • I have a 626 Mazda and it runs fine been driving it a year and the other day it started jerking as i was on the freeway seems like it was the transmission the overdrive light keep coming on even though it was off.i can get up to 90 and it will run good and all of a sudden it will start again and i lose RPMs and it jerks could someone please help me.
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