Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda 626 Troubles

1117118120122123125

Comments

  • My Mazda started jerking the other day felt like the transmission the over drive light came on allthough i keep it off please help me.
  • Hello Parell1234,

    One quick question: Does the O/D light "Flash" when on extended highway trips?

    If it does, you might have a "known" Mazda Service Issue.

    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 4 Cyl Automatic and for some reason if I am Driving at 70 mph and let off the gas pedal my O/D Light Flashes and continues to do so until I stop and turn off the car, let it cool for about 10 minutes and then restart it again.

    However while I am driving with the O/D light flashing (at lower speeds) I experience very hard switching in gears. After a full stop, when I start up again the transmission will shift into second with a bang then into third with a milder thump.

    However this does not happen every time I drive 70 mph (Usually after an hour of highway driving.)

    I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission.

    When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode… (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI).

    It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.)

    A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission."

    It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid.

    Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).

    Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative).

    Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions.

    You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.)

    I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic.
  • hello
    sorry for my English as I live in Russia and badly I speak english
    I own the MAZDA 626 GF 2000year. 2,5 V6 car a super on mechanical transmission that at you a rarity has arisen a problem :-)))
    I will be short. It is necessary for me buy a tank broad KLG4-15-350C
    who every body to help, I have found already there where to conveniently my friend to buy
    TOMS RIVER MAZDA
    HIGHWAY 37 EAST TOMS RIVER, NJ 08754
    Phone: whether 732-341-2900

    it is necessary to learn there is there this detail and how many costs?
    In advance all thanks
  • HELLO THERE I HAVE 2000 MAZDA 626 2.5 AND I JUST REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, HARMONIC BALANCER, TIMING BELT, TIMING BELT PULLIES, ALL THE DRIVING BELTS, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES AND NOW WHEN I GO OVER 65 MPH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS AND THE CODES SAYS MISFIRE CYLINDER ONE I BELIEVE DONT KNOW TO MUCH ABOUT CARS BUT I REALLY NEED SOME IDEAS IF ANY ONE HAS HAD PROBLEM KINDA OF THE SORT PLEASE LET ME KNOW
  • what a coincidence my car just started running rought and the engine light was flashing on and off when it was switching gears. Meaning when I hit 40 and then 50-60. Had my oil changed to day at monroe and the mechanic just driving it said it was misfiring and it was because of my wire kit. I just had a tune up not even a year ago and when he showed me the middle plug that is on the thing the oil goes into, it was white and not catching the sparks from the plug. So I would have your wire kit and plugs checked if they are both fine I was told it can be injector or your coil. I have a 99 mazda 626 lx. I am sure it will probably be your wire kit especially if the are the duralast brand purchased from auto zone. Hope this helps
  • Hello,



    I am at the end of my rope with this problem. Let me start by letting you know what I did do to try to fix my problem.

    I have changed both fans, cleaned and flushed the radiator, bought a new radiator, both of the radiator caps have been changed, I changed the thermostat, change every possible hose that I could find on the car, change the water pump, there are no leaks and if I accelerate in the car the gauge goes to the cool side. After the car was inspected the engine light came on and the car ran rough. I changed the sparks plugs and that took care of some of the problem but not all, the car still runs hot, the gauge goes to the middle toward the hot side. I have tried everything that I know to do and the hot problem is still there. All of the parts are new, so could it be something internal. What could I be missing? I have also changed the Universal Catylic converter. Please advise me on what the problem could be. Thank you for your help in advance.
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement! :) Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!

    The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
    See you there!

    PFFlyer@Edmunds

    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • Hey , I'm needing to check the thermostat on my 2006 V6 but don't know where to look. I need to know how to get to it and remove it. Can anyone tell me and hopefully post a pic or link? I'm new to working on cars so please be direct.

    The problem I am having is that the heat blows cold when at idle and the temp gage is all over the place. Heat works fine when accelerating but at a stand still, nada.
    Added coolant but problem persists.

    P.S. Should there be more than just a few ounces of coolant in the overflow? Also, when I remove the cap, there is none showing at all. Should I be able to see some? Maybe I did not add enough.
  • hawkohawko Posts: 1
    I have a1994 626 hatch, i bought it 13 months ago, it stalls when turning right, when the fuel is low, the more i accelerate ,the quicker it stalls, i've asked several mechanics & none seem to know what is wrong, up until recently, so long as i kept fuel level above a quarter it was ok, but now it's doing it even with plenty of fuel, any advice would be appreciated
    ty Dave
  • OK so I have the same car you do but it is a 99. I had the same problem and didn't see that i was leaking anything, but check the overflow tank, meaning the plastic containter you pour your antifreeze in. I had a slight crack underneath it that I couldn't see my mechanic did. I replaced that and my car doesn't run hot anymore. When I did this, my problem went away. hope this works.
  • Just got off the phone with a mechanic who claims that the motor in my 2001 Mazda 626 is "fried". The car has 115,000 miles on it. I want to check with you all to see if you think he's right.

    Here's the situation:

    Saturday, I drove my car on a 100 mile trip with absolutely no problems. Pulled it into the parking lot and went to bed. Early Sunday morning I started the car and immediately the Check Engine light flashed twice. There was little power in the engine and a "rattling" sound from under the hood (right side). I had to get to where I was going so I went ahead and babied the car along (very little power) until it finally wouldn't go any further. I know that it was an idiotic thing to do and I'm probably paying the price. Since I am out of town I had it towed to the nearest garage and they have been working on it since Monday.

    Monday, the mechanic told me the plugs were fouled and said that the car needed a tune-up. Said that he was going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires. I told him that I didn't think that was the problem, but he insisted that he needed to do it to get it to run.

    Tuesday, I checked with them and they said that the new plugs fouled immediately when trying to run the car. Said that he was going to try to do a wet and dry test (I think he means a compression test).

    Wednesday (today), he said that air was being sucked in through the exhaust and that the engine was "fried". Said that the oil was 2.5 quarts low when it was towed in (though when I checked it, it showed full). They're supposed to get me a price for replacing the engine.

    If the engine truly is blown, so be it... But I can't figure out why the car would run absolutely fine on Saturday and then have a catastrophic failure on Sunday. If anyone would like to offer their opinions or their sympathy on the loss of my beloved 626, I would be grateful!

    Thanks! :sick:
  • It's hard to say without an autopsy and unless the mechanic has those X-ray vision glasses you used to be able to order from comic books, he really doesn't know the full answer either. I realize you are only able to pass on info second hand but it doesn't quite add up, as you say. The plugs were fouled with what? oil? gas? That would be good to know.

    Air sucking from the exhaust? How did he determine that?!!

    I think I'd do a "cylinder leakdown test" before tearing into this engine, unless the mechanic can take a part and stick it under your nose for you to see some horrendous damage.

    Possibilities? cracked head? Loss of oil during the night, resulting in engine damage while being run? Leaking injector filled crankcase with gasoline, washing cylinders of oil causing damage?

    How is the whole engine "fried"? Top and bottom? All the parts are bad? Has he pulled the cylinder head off?

    Way too little information here.
  • Thanks for confirming my suspicions. To answer a couple of your questions...

    There was no loss of oil in the parking lot during the night. The car showed symptoms immediately upon starting (the flashing check engine light, loss of power).

    I'll check with him what he means when he says the plugs were "fouled" -- He showed me one of the plugs and it did look black and burned. From what he was saying to me, it seemed that he was meaning that it was fouled with gas that wasn't burning off.

    As far as the other questions, I'll ask him about those magical glasses :)

    Thanks for your help...
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I can help you some. My daughter has a '99 V6 that I just had the thermostat replaced in. It is located below the air intake box (where the air filter is). I understand they had to remove the box, remove the coil pack to get to it because it is on a lower hose.

    I would also suggest you check the coolant reservoir bottle closely. Hers developed a leak (very common, it is plastic). I had to go to Mazda and buy a replacement. Very easy to replace though. The reservoir tank should be full to the "max" line.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Apparently the idle issue was something electronic, though I do not know what. I had to pull the battery cable for something else, and after doing this, the idle is now perfect and has been for the past 3 months. So, I have no clue what the issue was, but it is now resolved.
  • My car Mazda 1997 626 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 73000 miles was working great until all hell broke lose. Suddenly the car started shaking noticeably with a strong rubber burning smell. The car would still drive but the engine would make strange noise but would not turn off. The shaking reduces visibly if put in neutral gear. The heating does not show any heating etc. Also, the engine light has started to blink. What could be the problem here? Is it a transmission problem?
  • Your description of the symptoms is hard to comprehend, A rubber burning smell might be a tire rubbing on something, or a belt or hose slipping or melting. Shaking stopping when put in neutral might be a lot of different things rangeing from an engine not running right, to a bad motor or transmission mount, to a transmission problem or axle problem, maybe a bad ball joint also. You could go to an Autozone or Advanceautoparts store, and they will loan you for free, a code scanner that will plug into your dashboard, and give you a readout from the car's computer as to why the check engine light is on.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    This is totally a guess on my part, but the no heat, burning rubber smell, and rough running sounds like it could be a water pump seizing. My daughter's boyfriend has an Xterra and it had very similar symptoms when the water pump was going out a couple of weeks ago.

    Also, have you changed the timing belt yet? I know the V6 is good for 105k, not sure about the 4 cylinder belt, but it may only be 60k.
  • I Just bought a 1997 Mazda 626 and I'm having some problems with the car. at first it started to stall on me. and it seamed it was loosing power and the gears would not shift. I took it to the mechanic and he did the Diagnostic and found a bunch of codes which he said they were all related to the same part. so he replaced the EGR valve cylinoid and Solenoid Valve. I thought that was going to fix my problem but no It was still doing the same thing. I took it back and they said they need to replace the Air Inlet Boot and do the Transmission Fluid. But that it still needed the Idle control Valve. It's running a little better but is not 100 percent. I did another Diagnostic and it came up with 6 codes need help. the codes are P0171- P0300-P1131-P1130-P1506 and P1744. Please help any suggestions.
  • i have a 1998 mazda 626 with a v6 non turbo with the code p0400 any idea how to make it go away.. need to smog car asap
Sign In or Register to comment.