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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • i need help with this code car is un able to pass smog untill i resolve this issue. any help would be great.
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Posts: 4
    whatever happened with your 626, was the engine fried? yesterday i was driving my 99 626 with 200,000 on it and on entering the freeway and accelerating to highway speed it suddenly lost power and will hardly go. i checked with just answer and they think it is the catalytic convertor. just curious to your findings, the symptoms are somewhat similar.
  • zedzzedz Posts: 2
    Hi all. I am a newbie here and need a bit of help. Last night driving down the m6 doing 70mph my cambelt broke. AA got me back home and said the cambelt had boke and at 70 mph the possibility of the valves being bent were very high and the repair cost could be as high as the value of the car itself. Is this true due to the bank holiday i cant get it to the garage for a while. Bought my 2000 model diesel for £2K year and a half ago and no probs at all till now. read somewhere if its a non interferance engine it may be ok have no idea what this means but is it true. sorry for the essay but any help is appreciated.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Unfortunately I don't have specs on UK models and we don't have this engine in the USA.

    But yes, if it is a non-interference engine that you're okay. Basically "interference" means that the pistons, going up and down, are timing by the timing belt NOT to hit the valves, which are above the pistons and also going up and down. Rather like a clockwork. However, on an interference engine, should this "timing" be interrupted by breakage of the belt, the pistons, still spinning, will indeed hit the valves, also still spinning from momentum---even though the valves and pistons are no longer connected by the timing belt.

    The reason for interference design is to give a lower engine profile and I would imagine longer piston stroke.

    You can't rely on AA to give you accurate info. You need to go to a qualified garage or contact a Mazda dealer about this.

    If the valves are bent, you do have a considerable expense to bear---the head must come off, new valves installed, etc. It's generally not about a "whole new engine"---not that drastic, but still here in the states this could be a $1500 job, no problem.


  • zedzzedz Posts: 2
    Thanks or the reply. Due to bank holday here its a major problem getting a mechanic to look at it. I work 7 miles from home no bus and taxis are expensive and because i just started cant take time off work. will try to ring both the garage and mazda tomorrow to see if they can give me advise before i know if i have to scrap the car. Sad really.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Well not all modern engines are interference and perhaps the diesel needn't be. Do let us know.


  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Question about the EGR passage cleaning. I just did this to resolve low EGR flow CEL. Cleaned out throttle body and passages, and replaced gasket. Put everything back together, reconnected battery, and started car. Car is idling a little rough now, and is making a squealing sound when idling and when under light throttle. The gasket I used is a Mazda part, and I tightened all 4 throttle bolts very tight. I had to scrape the old gasket off. Any ideas on what is causing the squealing sound, which to me sounds like an air leak? Is it possible I did not put the gasket on correctly?? I would love to see a good pic of a gasket installed correctly, but so far have non found one anywhere. Thanks for any suggestions :)
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    Squealing might be your belt(s) slipping because of the rough idle. The rough idle might be because of a loose vacuum hose. I don't have this model 626, but there are normally lots of vacuum hoses on and around the EGR valve.
  • dixiedcdixiedc Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 that makes a clunking sound when you take off from a stopped position and when you change gears.
  • pc2129pc2129 Posts: 1
    I have a 626 es 2001 4cyl 2.0 manual, here's my problem. my battery light turned on, It's been on for about two weeks now... I suspect the alternator, is there any other possibility? I
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Squealing sound was caused by carbon debris that had fallen into the EGR tubes as I cleaned out the main ports inside the throttle body. I opened the throttle body back up, shot some more cleaner down in the tubes, took car out and drove it for a while and squeal is gone. Idle is also back to normal and car is running well. Next on list to do is replace leaking valve cover gaskets. Always something!!
  • Got a friend that had his oil pump go out. Motor is knocking like an old Singer Sewing Machine.

    Does anyone know if any axles or the transmission are in the way of removing the oil pan?

    This will depend on whether or not the car gets fixed.
  • ihave 1996 mazda 626 my clutch is all thw way to the floor does it have a clutch cable ? What could be the problem it will ot go in gear.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Probably a failed clutch slave or clutch master cylinder. There's no cable.


  • Have looked for crank position sensor, but cannot locate. I was told it was near serpentine belt and wire harness comes up near manifold ??? Not there. Anyone???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    I don't think that car uses a CPS, which would explain perfectly why you can't find it!


  • Hi
    It seems i have the exact same problem as you have.....since my battery went flat the idling is say the least!
    Did you find a solution?
  • Well, that explains that! Then my next question is ,why will it run for 45 mins then quit? Won't restart until couple of hrs later. Tank clean, new sock, pump working,, I'm at a loss. Great running when running
  • Hi Guys

    MY wifes Mazda 626lxa (1994 atx ) overheated last week in Greece. We costantly check the water level from the plastic reserve tank and it is always full, or we top it off.

    After car overheated she brought it to a mechanic who said we must check by opening radiator cap while cold , once a month and and see if it is really full. He said with age water does not circulate properly between actual radiator and reserve tank. He compared it to hardening of the arterys in people. He also said bubbles can flow in the line and stop the water from passing

    He drained all the coolant, refilled it and said keep an eye on it . Lo and behold after an aprrox 200 fairly high speed (80MPH ) mile trip in hot weather , she opened the actual radiator and it is a little low , while the reserve tank is showing completely full.
    Is there a hose that connects the reserve/ overflow tank(plastic) to the actual radiator that could be the cause.

    What else can cause this problem in a 15 year old car .
    I am presently in the States and am trying to diagnose the problem with your help from afar.
  • Please go file it at

    Something needs to be done about how poorly this car was made and the people who have been made to suffer for investing in Mazda. I will never buy from them again.
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