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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • Yes, there's a pipe (usually a hose) linking the plastic reserve tank to the radiator, and it might have been blocked, though, this is rarely the case.

    Most overheating problems in 626s arise from wiring problems with d cooling fan(s) (e.g. burnt out wires) or blocked radiator cells (usually from accumulation of sludge over time due to filling with dirty water).

    To prevent overheating, always be sure that your cooling fans are indeed working whenever u switch on d car engine. If ur engine still overheats with d fans working, ur radiator cells may be clogged. Finally, if u've had ur radiator removed and d cells cleaned out at a mechanic's, and ur car still overheats, d source is definitely from excessive friction within d engine block. U might need to change ur oil, filter and spark plugs.

    I,m certain by d time u've tried all these, ur car will b just o.k.
  • These cars are also known for the coolant tank developing a leak at the bottom. I have replaced the tank on my daughter's '99 model twice in the past 3 years. Both developed cracks on the bottom in the seam of the plastic tank. First indicator of a problem was overheating, especially when stopped at traffic lights.
  • i WAS GOING DOWN THE INTERSTATE AND THE MOTOR STOPPED PULLING. BY THE TIME I COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD THE ENGINE DIED AND WOULDN'T START. I HAVE HAD FRIENDS TELL ME THAT IT'S TIMING BELT. COULD THIS BE TRUE? AND I ALSO HAVE A MAJOR OIL LEAK INSIDE THE TIMING COVER THAT I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHERE IT'S COMING FROM.
  • Yes, a timing belt failing will cause the engine to die. but there are lots of other things can cause the engine to stop. Top things that come to mind are, dead battery, failed alternator, alternator belt breaking, ignition coil failing, spark plug wire to ignition coil failing, overheating, engine fuse blowing and of course running out of gas.
  • Once on a freeway my mazda 626 1999 model car all of sudden died, in such a way that dash board lights and all electrical functions went dead and the car comes to a complete halt. This was simply due to a dead fuse, but the mechanic charged me $600 US$ and at that time I was not sure. My car was coming from a hot environment and then into a sudden cold and was probably running for 2 days continuously, and that could have contributed to this. So do make sure that it is not the fuse.
  • bt100bt100 Posts: 3
    I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open "was causing the engine light to stay on and that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission, and am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone???
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    As far as the EGR flow issue, this is a very common problem with these cars. It is caused by carbon build-up in the throttle body. There are 2 small ports that go to the EGR valve that get clogged and must be cleaned out by hand. You have to open up he throttle body to get to them. You will need to purchase a throttle body gasket before you do this, as you will destroy the one in place. They are cheap. Also get some throttle body cleaner to spray into the ports. Following is a link that explains it, including some pics: http://forums.mazdaworld.org/index.php?showtopic=13174&st=0

    If the EGR is stopped up bad enough, it might be fooling your computer system and making the tranny shift higher, maybe. Were any codes present indicating a tranny problem?

    If the timing belt has not replaced, I highly recommend getting this done. Do you know any maintenance history on your car?

    Brake light could just be low brake fluid levels in the master cylinder. Check the brake fluid levels.
  • you said the car is 15 years old and it overheated then maybe it's possible the head gasket has blown
  • lon8lon8 Posts: 1
    Where is the thermostat located on a 2000 626 e s?
  • runo4hruno4h Posts: 1
    I do not have an answer yet. I came inside after a ride in my wonderful 1999 626 that I love so much and have left parked for the last month, and decided to google my problem. Basicly we have the same complaints. Not sure what the rotors had to do with an idle problem. :) I left the car with a mechanic for a month before and had to go pick it up because some people don't see the reasoning in repairing a 10 year old car. I absolutely love my car!! When I graduate from college I'm buying a Mazda 6. I'm going to take some of the the suggested solutions to another mechanic this weekend and I'll let you know if I get it repaired. Good luck and post a reply if you get yours fixed!
  • renemrenem Posts: 4
    I've been experiencing the same rattle/vibration at low speeds for about a week. I recently had my muffler and back pipe replaced a month ago, so I know that is not the cause. I only hear the noise when I first start up my car until I am at about 35 mph. I don't know if it it goes away or if at the higher speed I just can't hear it, but it seems to disappear after the car has been running for a while. It is difficult to tell where the sounds is originating, but it seems to be more in the front.
  • renemrenem Posts: 4
    You probably already have the answer, but my 98 was stalling all the time as well. I had the PCV valve replaced and no more issues.
  • jamohjamoh Posts: 1
    I have my 626, 108K. Recently, I had crank-no-start issues. Sporadically. Like first try = cranks, no start. second try, starts right up. Happened maybe 3 or 4 times over the course of a month. Last Monday, crank and crank and crank, wouldn't start all day. Had it towed to a non-dealer service center. They said that the fuel pump is working, as in getting voltage, but that it's not getting the command to pump fuel. But otherwise it was working normally, because it was pressurizing, etc. The guys there said they couldn't find an electrical wiring diagrams that matched my car, apparently they changed a few times, and my car matches none of the diagrams they could find. They couldn't solve it, but called me the next day with the car starting up fine, 100% of the time. Went to pick up the car, and as it was almost dusk, turned on the headlights -- headlight relay just chirps/buzzes, won't turn on. Thinking the headlight relay is fairly simple, I traded the relay with the horn, as they are both the same part number. Horn still works, Lights still don't -- the relay just hums and buzzes. Odd indeed.

    The next day, starts fine, headlights work fine. Techs are stumped.

    I then recalled about a month ago, my wife reported that the airbag light was flashing when she drove the car. Next time I drove it, it was not. Then one day it did, and it was a 3-7 code. My limited search capabilities for finding the meaning of this lead me to believe it was irregular voltage detected on the passenger side module. (If anyone has the exact meaning, please advise.) But that went away and has not come back either.

    Long story short, I continue to have these intermittent, seemingly unrelated issues, that are various degrees of severity (can't drive the car at night without headlights, can't drive at all with it not starting, but can drive with a warning light occasionally).

    Some posts point to these lead back to something as generic as the alternator going bad, and not putting out enough current. I'm tempted to believe that, because windings do go bad, but I've never had a dead battery issue.

    Talking to the Mazda dealer, he wants to change the fuel pump and swap out the relays. I think this is short-sighted though. It's treating the symptoms, not treating the problem.

    So, along the lines of a pre-failed alternator, could this be something as simple as a bad ground somewhere too? Any similar stories to correlate here or advice is appreciated greatly.
  • just replaced my slave and master cylinders for my clutch. still not getting any pressure.doesn't seem like it is taking any fluid from the reservoir. any suggestions? 1996 Mazda 626 4-cylinder
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    edited February 2010
    Two things "right off of the bat": One: The hydraulic system ie master cylinder, line/lines from it to the slave cylinder, as well as the slave cylinder must be "bled" of all air in them. Usually one can have an assistant pump or press up and down on the clutch pedal, while the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is opened, or loosened (while the pedal is held down) letting air mixed with fluid out,you can use a piece of rubber brake line going to a tin can to catch the old fluid mixed with air coming out, or a rag if you wish, and then closed or tightened BEFORE the pedal is allowed up so as not to draw any air back in. It is good to pump the pedal two or three times before it is held down to build pressure up before holding it down to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. This process is repeated numerous times, but stopped to top off the master cylinder(clutch) with brake or clutch fluid (same thing basically) so IT DOES NOT GO DRY THEREBY ALLOWING AIR BACK INTO THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. Usually this is complete with one or two topping offs of the master cylinder when it is roughly half empty.
    Second: The clutch must also be adjusted properly, ie, not too much freeplay, nor too tight that it will wear out the release bearing, and or cause the clutch to slip.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Just a random thought, but are the cables to the battery and the connections to the battery still good? Was having an issue with my daughter's '99, including flickering headlights. Finally would not start. Jumped it off enough to get to auto parts place. tested battery and it was bad. Replaced it. Hook up cables, car would not even begin to start. Bottom line was the negative connection, though it looked good, was not actually tightening on the negative battery post. Also explains battery going bad as I am sure it was not getting a charge off of alternator.
  • zoevzoev Posts: 2
    Hi... i recently bought a nice 99 626 automatic. love it, however, i got in an accident. replaced the front fender, driver side doors, signl, etc. had to replace driver side control arm, and adjust the frame for various noise. anyhow, now its almost perfect, but...
    after an alignment 3 wks ago, this clicking/binding noise in the drivers side wheel (?) is freaking me out. it happens only when i hit a bump/pothole or when im turning hard to the left. it sounds like a ball joint or god only knows.
    my mechanic took off the wheel and tightened and checked everything after driving with me briefly. sees nothing. also, sometimes i "feel" the noise in the brake pedal. does that make sense? any ideas? my mechanic said its probably this hard rubber piece that supports the axle or something when the car bounces up and down. thanx! ;)
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I would almost definitely say that your front axle is damaged from the accident. If you can "feel" the noise in the brake pedal, the axle is front wheel drive, and will send input into the brakes. It could have been worn, and then damaged more in the accident, even though it apparently works, it could be damaged or bent or both.
    The worst case is that the transaxle is damaged as well. But try to get the front axle replaced first.
  • I'm working on my wife's '96 626 ES, and I've found a NEW problem. To begin with, it munched its' alternator belt. I had to remove the entire idler pulley [non-permissible content removed]'y to make it function properly as the adjustment bolt had been shouldered off...'yummy'(or not). I put all the cookies back in the jar (+new pulley) and put on the belt and tensioned it per manual's instruction. I let it idle for a few, all was good. I checked everything again before zippin' her up when I smelled hot belt. The alternator pulley was SUPER HOT. It still turns but it's just murdered a new belt. So I ask you,..."say whaaaaattttt??!!!??!? I know I have to replace the alt. but why the heat issue and can you direct me as to the best way to remove/replace the unit?
    thnx a mil! notagain2
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I have a 1990 Mazda 626 DX. I HAD belt problems with my alternator belt as well.
    There are several things to consider.
    #1.If the belt is removed, can the alternator pulley spin freely?
    It should keep spinning after you let go of it for at least a second or two.

    #2. The new pulley you installed should ALSO spin freely.
    Sometimes one can over tighten a perfectly good pulley, and it will bind up and not spin well.
    Requiring, a spacer washer to be installed possibly, or simply using a lockwasher
    and or locktight, to prevent vibration from loosening it,backing it off a bit, and then not tightening it quite as much when re-tightening.

    #3. The alternator, pulley and crank pullies all have to be in alignment, meaning that the belt is running in a straight path, not left or right too much, sometimes the alternator,bracket(alternator) or pulley, has to have a different bolt or a washer or two added to bring the belt's path into proper alignment.

    #4. Lastly, proper belt tensioning has to mean that ten to fifteen pounds of pressure
    flexes the belt at least a half inch, up to one inch, ten to fifteen pounds is not a lot of pressure.

    Also: A new belt WILL flex and stretch, mostly after a few minutes of running,
    so, I advise you to RE-Check belt tension after starting and running just a few minutes. And, again, not too tight if you re-tension that belt. It will squeal if it's too loose anyway.
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