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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • have a 97 626 141,000 miles had the wheel bearing replaced he took apart the pasenger side by mistake got it back with a bushing noise I suppose in the upper strut P side haven't looked too far yet anyone got ideas
  • kennekkennek Posts: 1
    i have a 94 mazda 626 dx that has no spark but has power to the coils. I took off the dist. cap and everything looks good. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas if theres a sensor that might be out that i could do myself>
  • travo71861travo71861 Posts: 1
    my 01 626 just started having transmission problem. I changed the fluid. The pump is working, the filter is not stopped up. When you put it in drive from a dead stop, it does not want to go. You have to rev the rpms up to like 2000 and it will slowly start moving until it gets up to like 20 mph then will shift good and no problem after that. When you rev it up it will eventually catch and shift and run great. Its just everytime you start from a dead stop it doesnt want to go. seems like it has to build up pressure or something. Is there an electrical problem? Would it be the soilinoid? Is the valve body stopped up? Can someone help me figure this out please. Its my only way to go.
  • malice2malice2 Posts: 1
    About 2 weeks ago both my engine temperature gauge and my fuel gauge gauge both way beyond the red line on the temperature gauge and fuel gauge. I have a 93 mazda 626. After a few times of turn the key into the on position they will return to normal levels.

    I decided to take a look today and noticed the my engine coolant temperature sensor was melted in half at the base right above the bolt. I know it needs to be replaced but would that cause my gauges to act like that?
  • zoevzoev Posts: 2
    after a serious accident my car was making a noise from the driver side wheel. my mechanic looked for two hours, working on it, test driving. turned out to be a loose sway bar link or whatever. took the second place five minutes to find the problem. they said it wasnt harmful, but loud as hell.
  • Hi, i saw that you had a 95 626 and was curious if you had any idea what the clear plastic overflow tank connects to is called. It's the small black compartment with what looks like a radiator cap that needs to be replaced on my 96 mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L. manual. The hose from the overflow that connects under the imposter radiator cap is busted at the contact point and i am building up pressure and blowing hoses. i had the hose blow that runs from right next to my oil filter and up near the water pump go and everyone has told me they need to remove the a/c compressor and the alternator to get the new hose on. If you can help me at all with anything i would really appreciate it. i just bought this car in may and have put 1000 of work into it between an entire rear brake job and exhaust from the cat back. I love but the previous owner really neglected the car and now i gotta pay for it.
  • Hi, i am curious if you had any idea what the clear plastic overflow tank connects to is called. It's the small black compartment with what looks like a radiator cap that needs to be replaced on my 96 mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L. manual. The hose from the overflow that connects under the imposter radiator cap is busted at the contact point and i am building up pressure and blowing hoses. i had the hose blow that runs from right next to my oil filter and up near the water pump go and everyone has told me they need to remove the a/c compressor and the alternator to get the new hose on. If you can help me at all with anything i would really appreciate it. i just bought this car in may and have put 1000 of work into it between an entire rear brake job and exhaust from the cat back. I love it but the previous owner really neglected the car and now i gotta pay for it.
  • i recently had the timing belt replaced, the mechanic removed the pulleys for the serpentine belt and alternator belt to have access to the timing parts. well he replaced everything ..but now everytime i want to turn on my car it sounds like my alternator belt is spinning round without turning the car on. i have to tighten screw that moves the idler pulley and find a position where it turns on. but then after 20 min the car starts stalling and sometimes turns off and i have to repeat the routine. any ideas on what it could be? the idler pulley (the pulley closest to the hood that moves when you tighten the screw) sounds a little rough when i spin it. any ideas?
  • Thanks! My wifes 1999 626 4 cyl is doing the exact thing.....
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Just thought I would share this. My daughter's '99 V6 model was experiencing occasional no start issues. Went on for a few days, then would not start at all. Engine cranked, all electricals were working, but no start. I noticed that I was not hearing the fuel pump. Had car towed to the shop. Of course it started for them initially, but then went back to the no start issue. Turned out all it needed was a fuel pump relay. And a new fuel filter. Hope this helps someone.
  • You need to check and see if the intake is tight and if so, you need to replace the intake gasket and that should solve the problem because I had the same issue. Make sure you seal on the top and the bottom.
  • The intake needs to be tighten and if that does work replace the gasket.
  • It is call the overflow tank.
  • I have a 91 Mazda 626 and it seems to not want to work properlly. Everytime it goes below 1000 rpms it kills, i have to throw it into nuetral n keep my foot on the gas to keep it started i think its the throttle sensor but not sure. ive taken it to a few garages but no one has the machine to look at it because it is older than a 96. any ideas?????????????????????????????? :mad:
  • Hi,
    I have a 2000 4cyl auto with 125,000 miles on the clock. Has run faultless up to now. Auto trans is jerking when put into drive or reverse, harsh change from 1st to 2nd gear but fine into m3rd or 4th. Sometimes will not go into 4th at all. The rest of the time it goes into 4th but the "lock" light is on all the time. Checked out by one trans specialist who said the gearbox needed a rebuild - $2,500. Any one out there have any experience of this problem and is it terminal for the gearbox?

    cheers Rory
  • My son is having the same problem - how did you solve it?
    let me know ASAP - he is away at college and kind of scared.
  • My son is having the same problem - how did you solve it?
    let me know ASAP - he is away at college and kind of scared.
  • I have a 99 626 4cyl auto with 103 K on it ...I bought it used and it appears to be in great shape..But I'm a little worried about the Timing belt. I haven't been able to find out if it has ever been changed...The manual says at 60K....Does anyone have any idea just how long it can last..? The local Mazda dealer wants about 800 bucks to change it..cheaper than a new engine,but I don't want to put that kind of money in this car.....Thanks
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,631
    $800 seems high for that service. Have you checked non-dealer mechanics? Also, did you ask your Mazda dealer to check the computer service records? If any Mazda dealer changed that belt, it should be in the computer (I think...). Also you could ask your dealer to pull a Carfax report on the car for you as a courtesy; it MIGHT say whether the belt has been replaced.

    I would be worried too if the timing belt had over 100k on it. When I bought my 2000 626 in January 2006 with 84k on it and no record of the 60k service being done, I made the dealer toss that into the deal, including the timing belt replacement.
  • Thanks backy,
    Yes I did pull a carfax report on the car but could find no service records..It had 92K on it when I bought it and it did appear to be very well cared for..new belts ,hoses ect.It uses no oil..
    I'm getting a lot of conflicting information on that 2 liter motor..Some say it is an interference engine and some say it isn't..One guy replaced his belt at 175K and said the old belt looked new..So I'm going to take my chances and run it..I'm planning to get rid of it next spring anyway.Although it's been a pretty good car it's underpowered and noisy...Incidentally I solved the problem of the check engine light coming on and then going back off again after a few days by changing the trans. fld. and putting in Mobil 1 synthetic..Apparently the tranny was overheating causing the check engine light to come on..That's what the code said ...Any way , thanks for your help.. :lemon:
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