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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • The 2.0 is not an interference engine. (I've had two of them.) Gates, which used to claim otherwise in their Web belt-replacement guide, has now fixed the error.

    Transmission cooling is generally marginal on these cars; they're much happier with an aftermarket cooler plumbed into the lines.
  • Thanks for responding,
    Since my last post I have done more research and , yes the 2,0 is not an interference engine so I intend to just run the car until I can get rid of it..Not going to put anything into it if I don't have to...Although it has been a pretty good car it is still a pontential disaster..Now the rear drivers side door won't unlock and I have a slight vibration around 45 mph..I replaced both axels last year and new tires..The tires are wearing perfectly and there is no sign of unbalance or out of alignment..Although the tranny appears to be working well I suspect the vibration may be transmission related..??? I can feel it but no one else seems to be able to sense it..It seems to disappear around 55 ~ 60 and then when I let off the gas and re-accelerate there is a roughness there ..Slight~ almost like it was a slightly leaky exhaust...Frustrating..!!!
  • 2000 mazda 626 v-6 overheating seeing that it seems this car has a problem with the overflow wondering if there is a solution to fix this once an for all.the car has had 3 new overflow jugs installed.please email me at if you know the final solution to this problem
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I had my share of issues with the coolant overflow bottle, but there are other reasons for overheating. I had one of the fan motors (the A/C condenser cooling fan) go out twice in the last 11 years. Without both fans operating and A/C on, the engine can overheat. Check and make sure that both fans are operating when A/C is on.

    Also, I had a problem with the original radiator at around 200k miles mark. It was seeping coolant right through the upper neck, but the cracks were microscopic. However, I was losing coolant at the rate of about 1 quart a week. I installed a new radiator, and never had this problem again. The car has 276, 000 miles on it now.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Are you loosening the center bolt on that idler pulley before tightening the tensioner bolt? Those idler pulley bearings typically last only about 80-100k miles. I have had to replace at least three sets on my car to date. You can either buy a new bearing and press the old one of and press a new one in, or buy a complete pulley with the bearing. Pressing out and pressing in a bearing on these is tricky and you must properly support the pulley and use a hydraulic press to do the job right.
  • skykingdumb1skykingdumb1 Posts: 6
    edited January 2011
    This car runs good for about 1/2 hr, then quits. Has new fuel pump,sock and cleaned tank. Won't start again for about an hr. Thought prob was CPS, but it has been suggested that it doesn't have one. Any other suggestions will be appreciated . thanks
  • I am having the same problem. I put on new bosch spark plugs, new spark plugs wires and new distributor but the problem did not go away. It only does it when its warm outside and I have to wait at least 20-40 mins before it can start back up. I don't know what is causing this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Possibly a bad fuel pressure regulator. You should test fuel pressure in the fuel rail and see if it bleeds down too much.


  • gutpokergutpoker Posts: 1
    My car has been idling bad for awhile now, and after reading a lot of posts, I preceded checking the following: Funtion of air control and throttle body, both seem to be fine, but cleaned anyway. I have pulled injectors and checked seals, checked spark plugs and wires by disconnecting each one in turn, I checked all vacuum lines and found none bad. I feel it to be a vacuum leak because if I spray cleaner around the injectors and valve cover gasket the engine idle noticably changes. Any ideas before I spend a ton at dealership?
  • own3626sown3626s Posts: 2
    Not sure about the V6's but I had 2 4cyl that did the same thing and found the distributor to be bad. The module is not likley replacable, may need to replace the entire distributor.
  • own3626sown3626s Posts: 2
    Hey gang, I have a 1996 626 4 cyl 2.0.
    No check engine light, when it gets warm it stumbles, sometimes really bad and sometimes not as bad, yet under full accelleration it does't stumble and runs out. When it's cold it acts normal. Any idea's? I am going to replace the fuel filter but to me that shouldnt be the problem. Spark plug fouled? Sensor??

    Thanks in advance!!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You could have leaky valve cover gasket, causing oil to seep into the plug wells and contaminating plug boots, causing a misfire. Another possibility is one or more bad plug wires. Typically you will see missing with a hot engine on light acceleration when you have a bad plug wire(s). You could also have a vacuum leak. Check to make sure all vacuum hoses are connected properly.
  • Driven this car for 6 months no problems. Today drove to a friends, car sat for about 5 hrs., during this time in rained and hailed hard with my windows partially down. My car was drenched, even had water in the cup holders in the middle. Well when leaving I got about ten minutes down the road and my car stalled and I coasted over to a stop. Long story short, unknown help came along and said because he couldnt hear my fuel pump hum when turning the key on that he thinks it is the fuel pump. Is this possible? Car turn over real strong but just wont start! HELP PLEASE!!!!
  • I think you need to check Air Idle control valve and clean a throttle body. May be Idle RPM needed to be adjusted.
  • pchasepchase Posts: 1
    ive replaced clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, master cylinder, and slave cylinder, now when i try to shift gears my clutch stays on floor and wont shift, like my clutch isnt disengaging, reverse is the worst wont come out of reverse until i pop clutch let car die, then i can get it in netural and restart. Any ideals im going crazy
  • its my first car i dont know much about cars either. it over heats in just a few minutes and blows out a lot of exhaust. there is rust on the radiator and it looks like it had some sort of oil leak in the past. i had the thermostat replaced and its still having the same problem and i noticed water leaking from what looks like the water pump. my friend is saying it maybe a blown head gasket. im just wondering if the car is worth fixing, im not really sure what to do its my first car...
  • Hopefully you have your issues taken care of by now. The 02 sensor will also come on if the wires to it are not connected. Since you cut and splice the wires when you change the sensor - double check your splices. I replaced my sensors at about 90000 miles, am at 150000 now. No problems.

    If the sound from the back end you hear is ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka and it occurs sporadically for only about the first five minutes - it's some valve related to the fuel/vapor ... something. There's a TSB for that. They'll install a rubber mount. If it's more of a clunk-a-lunk over bumps - mine does that too - don't know what it is, maybe brake pads.

    Yes, the coolant reservoir gets holes in it, I'm on my third one (also a 1998). As for overheating - make sure that the pressure cap is on the *reservoir*, not on the engine (I am used to seeing the other way around).

    There's also a TSB for hesitation - they'll reprogram the fuel delivery for that.
  • No.. These cars are not worth repairing.. They are junk... try to find a used Honda or Toyota.. :lemon: :sick: :sick: :lemon:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    No I don't think it's worth fixing unless you want to take it apart just as a hobby.


  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Our first new car is still running well. The ticka-ticka from the rear end still happens,occasionaly with no preformance issues. The clunka-clunka,aka Gremlins in the trunk,which was there from dealer lot departure has since departed!?! Afroman707 if yours is a 3pedal variety it might be worth saving but if it's an automatic,many tranny issues ahead. Love our left-leg-flexor and at 28-31 mpg have had eleven years of fun.
    Contemplate falling white crystalline matter!!!!
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