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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • Dear Sharon: There should be no slop in the steering whatsoever; get this thing back to the dealer and demand that he find out what's gone wrong between the wheel and the rack.

    My guess on Harold's new electrical woes is that the alarm system has gone south. Look how many things tie to it: the door locks, the door-open indicator, even the headlights (which blink if the alarm is set off). This doesn't explain the radio, exactly, but it's the best I can do without a circuit tester.

    Oh, and thanks, Fritz. Since I've owned two, that means between the two of us, we've averaged one apiece. :)

    And for the life of me, I can't figure out how long it will take to drain the battery without, um, actually draining the battery. I have gone about 55 minutes with no ill effects, but that's a long way from "hours".
  • izippyizippy Posts: 7
    In my case where the dealer says I need a new distributor, is it not possible to repair or must the whole unit be replaced.
  • Can't be done - at least, not for less than the cost of a new one.


    Trussville Mazda down in Alabama (which used to be Roebuck Mazda when it was somewhere else in Alabama) used to sell the ignition module, which is integrated with the distributor, separately - and by mail, yet. I dont know the current price, but its got to be less than the price of a whole distributor. It might not hurt to drop them a line - they're on the Web at www.trussvillemazda.com - and see if it's worth it to attack the problem piecemeal.

  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    Should I gamble it? As I've noted in earlier posts, I've got a 94 626/V6 that I just bought w/99K miles. I don't have the service records so I'm not sure if the previous owner has changed the timing belt at the recommended 60K mark. Being that the 2.5L V6 engine is a "non-interference" engine, it will not bend the valves if the timing belt goes. Nonetheless, I would appreciate any opinions regarding whether or not I should go ahead and change the timing belt anyway, or just risk it and drive it until it snaps. By the way, are there any 626 owners out there who have been lucky enough to put more than 100K miles on the original timing belt?
  • nbpetenbpete Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a '97 626 LX (canadian) V6 2.5 litre.
    Sometimes, while pressing the accelerator, at low speeds, less than 80 km (50mph) an hour, I will hear a "rattling" almost vibration-like sound coming from underneath the car. The sound will stop immediately after I release the gas pedal or if I disengage OD (although sometimes it happens while OD is disengaged as well, but it always stops if I'm in OD and then disengage it).

    The problem seems sporadic. Sometimes a week will go by with no noise, and then it starts again. When I do have this noise, it only lasts for a few seconds, then will disappear for the rest of the drive.

    I'm concerned, but not worried. Should I be worried?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    i haven't experienced this problem on my Mazda, but it sounds to me like you may have something loose on your exhaust. Maybe a heat shield, maybe a bracket. It is vibrating when you hit a certain resonance with your engine speed. Disengaging OD will change your RPMs, and, therefore, change the engine's resonance.

    Crawl under there and bang some things around and see if any of its loose. Sometimes that won't even help, though, because it may not be loose enough for you to move by hand. but, its worth a shot. If you find out that's what it is, its nothing to worry about, just annoying.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I wouldn't risk it - even if the valves don't bend, you're still stranded. Besides, the manual in my '93 said quite clearly that the V6 was the engine likely to suffer damage if you didn't change the belt, and the '94 engines were unchanged except for emissions tuning, so I have some doubts about all those copied-from-one-another charts on the Web.
  • I see someone got to this before I did, and better still, he's probably right. This sounds very much like a loose exhaust component.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    Just wanted to relate my experience with my wife's 1993 626ES, 5 spd. Last year after having the engine light go on and off for about a year I replaced both oxygen sensors (at about 65,000 miles). Went with Bosch O2 sensors from carparts.com and they work great. WIth coupon, I got them for less than $50 each. The also seemed to be better quality than the OEM and have had no more engine code problems.
    Also had to replace the distributor at about 60,000. It was horrendously expensive, no alternative but from dealer. I have now seen that a rebuilt one is available from either www.expressautoparts.co or www.autoparts.com.
    Fortunately car has been troublefree since then, now at 80,000 miles.
  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    Have you changed the timing belt in your 93 626 yet with 80K miles? If you haven't, is it because you feel confident that they'll last much longer than the recommended 60K interval?
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    Yes, I had the timing belt changed at 60,000 miles as recommended in owners manual. There seems to be no choice and the Mazda dealer cost was not too unreasonable.
  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    I just recently replaced the struts and CV joints in my 94 626. However, there is now an annoying and intermittent tapping noise when I make left turns. I know that there's a lot of "a-bone connected to the b-bone" stuff underneath the front end of the car. Could that intermittent tapping noise be the cause of something else that needs to be replaced?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    See if one of the brake dust shields is loose. Interestingly enough, I just saw something like this come up on the Protege board and that was the cause.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    Actually, in regards to my post #372, it should read "clunking noise" rather than tapping. You can actually feel the "clunk" underneath the front end of the car when making a left turn.
  • The thing about front-end noises is, you get rid of some, you get to hear the ones that you couldn't hear before.

    "Brake dust shield" makes sense to me, especially since they're fairly easy to shake loose if you're working around axles. Besides, if you had any other serious suspension problems, they'd have tried to sell you the pertinent parts along with the new struts.
  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    But wouldn't a brake dust shield make noise all of the time? The clunking noise I'm hearing is intermittent. It especially only does it when the car has been sitting awhile, like in the morning when I go to work. Then, when it warms up, it stops doing it. Very strange.
  • So when it gets warm, something's bigger than it used to be, and therefore doesn't fit so loosely, and therefore doesn't make the same noise.

    And let's face it, brakes produce a lot of heat, and it's gotta go somewhere....
  • sharon27sharon27 Posts: 3
    Thank you bgrozen and windophobe6 for you responses regarding steering wheel play on my new 626LX V6 5-speed. I took the car back to the dealer and discovered that the steering wheel had been installed off-center, thereby causing more play than there should have been. I was afraid I was going to get one of those "I don't see anything wrong here" (read: it's all in your head) -type responses, but they were very helpful. Steering is now fine.
  • goffda1goffda1 Posts: 1
    Can anyone help or have suggestions as to how to fix a window rattle? I have a 1988 Mazda 626 DX. The back right window has a constant rattle to it when driving on rough pavement, railroad tracks, etc... When you press on it from the inside, it stops. I had more than one person say that I needed to tighten the window on its track before it falls down completely and possibly break. I took the door panel off and I can only see to screws which tighten the window to the device which hold the window. Both screws just seemed to spin w/o tightening. Is there more to it than just the two screws? I would appreciate anyone's help as this is rather annoying and irritating. Thanks.

    Dave G.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    I'm not familiar with the inside of the door, but if there are 2 screws that are supposed to be tightened in there and they are spinning, then they are stripped. If that's the case, then you have a problem.

    Did you try rattling the window when you had the door panel off? Is the noise coming from the bracket or is it coming from the top of the window where it is inside the track at the top of the door?

    If its at the top, then either the weather stripping in the window track is worn down, or its gone altogether. Replacing it should fix the problem. The new rubber will hold the window in place and keep it from rattling.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • mengilesmengiles Posts: 1
    Feb 00 had Transmission rebuilt
    Sep 00 had o2 sensors replaced
    Mar 01 transmission gone again...just got it back from the shop. That is near $4000 in repairs in a year. mileage is high (125k) ARGH.
  • tim110tim110 Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 95 626 4 cyl automatic. It test drove great. Ten days after I bought it the Overdrive off light began flashing and it began shifting very hard, almost violently, between 1st & 2nd gear. While driving I push the Overdrive button and it appears to be working as it downshifts at high speeds, so why the flashing? Before this went bad the light would not flash but stay solid when the overdrive was off. The transmission fluid level was a little low which I filled but there is no difference. My independent mechanic said that it did have a recently new transmission about 20K miles ago. The car only has 50K miles on it. Has anyone had this happen to them?
  • indydaveindydave Posts: 3
    I just bought a 2000 626 DX with around 30K miles. The RPM jump from 3000 to 3500 before shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Anyone else have troubles like this? Taking it to dealer tonight, any idea how long they might have it? Thanks.
  • Look again. (Or maybe that's the WebCrossing spell-checker up to its old trix; either way, Mazda didn't sell a DX version of the 626 in 2000, at least in the US.)

    A jump in RPM of this size suggests to me that the direct clutch, which cuts in once you hit third, isn't engaging as fast as it ought to be - or alternatively, the SS2 shift solenoid (I'm assuming this is the LA4A-EL tranny) isn't switching fast enough.

    On the other hand, at least with the four-cylinder, 3500 rpm is a good shift point. :)
  • This was the fourth-generation 626's way of telling you that something was screwy and the transmission was lapsing into fail-safe mode until you got it fixed: in general, either you had a transmission problem, or you had an electrical system problem for which the transmission was unable to compensate.

    Your first order of business should be to have any codes pulled. (The automatic 626 was switched to OBD II in '94, I believe, so you'll need a scan tool.) This should identify the crapped-out component, which could be electrical or an internal tranny part.
  • indydaveindydave Posts: 3
    Actually it is an LX not DX and I just got a call from the dealership, my car needs a new transmission, not just a belt or single part a whole new transmission. Am I justified in requesting a loaner car until my car is ready? I feel I am. Thanks.
  • They're not just going to hand you a set of keys unless you pester them about it. (2001 models have loaners covered under roadside assistance.)

    And it has been Mazda policy for some time to replace any transmission that requires any repair beyond a routine seal, pump or gasket replacement, even if it is only a single part that's gone troppo.
  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    The intermittent clunking sound coming from underneath my 94 626 ended up being a defective CV joint that the tire company installed. They simply replaced it, and the problem is gone. Way cool...
  • I hope they ate the price of the replacement, too. CV joints, even rebuilt (and I swear by rebuilt), ain't cheap.
  • fromatozfromatoz Posts: 15
    A couple of times I shifted the gear from 'D' to 'P' or 'R' when the car still hasn't been fully stopped (in slow motion). And I can hear some strange noises from the gearbox if I do so. May I ask experts such as Windowphobe6 if this is harmful to the car?
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