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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • On the other hand, the Millenia is likely to cost more to maintain over the years, especially if it's the S version with the Miller-cycle engine, which is a bear to work on.

    Then again, it's hard to imagine someone considering a Millenia S thinking that the 626 LX has enough power. :)
  • Hello everyone

    I hope that everybody is doing well, even though their cars may not be doing so well. There are quite a few smart people out there who know their Mazda's. I like my Mazda but sometime's it get's frustrating, but they need some TLC just like alot of cars. My Mazda is 1993 626ES V6 with 173000 kms, and lately the hold light is flashing. I have a appointment at my Mazda dealer to see what the problem is and with the knowledge I've gained here hopefully we will be able to solve the problem. My Mazda dealer was telling me that when they pull the codes that it just gives them the general idea of what may be wrong then they have to try and pinpoint it.He says with the code number that it could mean 15-20 possible problems that they have to try to nail down. Is he just feeding me a line bull or is this true because he said it could be a few minutes to figure out or 45 minutes to figure out why the hold light is flashing. My car is having one more problem. At startup it cranks over for quite a few seconds before it starts, not all the time but about half the time.Any advice any of you could give me would be greatly appreciated,thanks alot and have a great day.
  • Another problem is that the idle speed of my car is really low. As I can read from the tach, it's about 340rpm. I asked two mechanics sometimes ago. Both of them said the idle speed is controlled by the computer, and couldn't (or shouldn't) be adjusted. Recently, I read some maintainess manual which says I can adjust the idle speed by turning some screw on the throttle body. Can someone tell me if it's ok for a novice like me to try it by myself? What equipment I should use?
    Windowphobe, I'd love to hear some advice from you. Thanks in advance!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Here are typical Mazda trouble code retrieval procedures and the meaning of some of the codes. Note that I've cut it off at Code #10. There are 77 Mazda pre-OBDII trouble codes. Each refers to a specific circuit or sensor, but DOES NOT specify the exact fault. Could be a sensor or solenoid, the signal wire to it, the return line from it, etc, etc. After determining the area of concern the tech still has to troubleshoot it to locate the exact cause. Think of it as being given the street name but not the house number.

    Mazda Code Retrieval
    Accessing Trouble Codes

    Carbureted Models
    System malfunctions detected and stored in the emission control unit can be displayed using the self-diagnosis checker tool No. 40-H018-9A1. Any current or memorized malfunctions are indicated by a displayed code number and a corresponding buzzer. A monitor lamp on the checker indicates oxygen sensor operation. A normal air/fuel ratio is indicated by a continuous flashing of the lamp. The lamp will not light continuously if the air/fuel is lean and will not light at all if the mixture is rich. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for operating procedures of the self-checker tool.

    Fuel Injected Models

    A system selector tool No. 49-B019-9AO or equivalent on OBD systems and tool No. 49-T088-OAO or equivalent on OBD II systems, can be used to diagnose the main input or output devices. Systems are displayed as code numbers appearing on the system checker. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for operating procedures.

    1 Ignition Coil - Trailing Side (1989-1991).
    1 Crank Angle Sensor (1984-1988).
    2 Crank Angle Sensor - No Signal.
    2 Air Flow Meter (1984-1988).
    3 Crank Angle Sensor - G Signal.
    3 Water Thermo Sensor (1984-1988).
    4 Intake Air Thermo Sensor.
    5 Knock Sensor.
    5 Oxygen Sensor (1984-1988).
    6 Speedometer Sensor.
    6 Throttle Sensor (1984-1988).
    7 Boost Sensor (With Turbocharger, 1984-1988).
    7 Pressure Sensor (Without Turbocharger, 1984-1988).
    8 Air Flow Meter.
    9 Water Thermo Sensor.
    9 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (1984-1988).
    10 Intake Air Thermo Sensor.
  • Gee, makes you wish for a carter carburator, ignition points and a timing light again, doesn't it?
  • There are, in fact, seven items which are monitored by that frightful little critter: the throttle-position sensor, the vehicle speed sensor, the pulse generator, and four different transmission solenoids. (Other malfunctions are reported on the MIL/CEL.) Since each of these can goof up in two or three ways, though, "15 to 20" is pretty close to the mark.

    If the transmission is shifting more or less normally, I'd suspect the TPS first - which might also have something to do with your cranking issue.
  • Not me. I fought with those turkeys all the way into the 90s and I don't ever want to see them again. :)
  • There is an air adjustment screw on the throttle body. (This adjusts air volume only; mixture is set by the ECU and is not adjustable by mere mortals.) It doesn't really require additional tools, though to be sure it's accurate, you should attach an external tach rather than rely on the one in the dash. And you really shouldn't mess with this, either, unless you're absolutely certain the timing is correct. If you're idling badly, the first order of business should be to have the idle air control valve (a smallish, hyperexpensive part) cleaned or, heaven forbid, replaced.
  • Thaks for your opinion on my problems. I just changed my spark plugs and noticed quite a bit of oil in the spark plug wells.Is this due to the valve cover gaskets and is it a big concern if they are starting to leak quite a bit.
  • Hello all, well I just got back from my mazda dealer and we pulled the codes to see why the hold light was flashing and the mil light was also on.These are the results
    Code #'s 15 left bank O2 sensor
    17 left bank O2 sensor no change
    23 right bank O2 sensor
    24 right bank O2 sensor no change
    3 G signal
    4 NEI signal
    He said codes 3 and 4 were related to the distributor and that it needed to be replaced and that I needed two O2 sensors to be replaced. This is on a 1993 626 ES, he said the hold light is probably flashing because the transmission gets some information from the distributor hence the problem because of a faulty distributor. Any insight any of you could give would be greatly appreciated. I live in Canada and he said a new distributor would run me 558.20 and the oxygen sensor 176.15 do these prices sound normal. Thanks and have a great day.
  • Leaky valve-cover gaskets don't generally lead to greater problems, but the unwanted oil bath is not at all kind to the spark-plug wires, and given the cost of those wires, it might even be cost-effective to have those gaskets replaced.

    The G signal does interact with the pulse generator, so that seems plausible enough about the Hold light. (I thought NE1 was code 2, but I could be wrong.)

    Actually, given the exchange rate, that sounds fairly cheap for a distributor. Nothing makes oxygen sensors sound cheap, alas. :)
  • whackowhacko Posts: 96
    The "check engine" light has just lit up in my 94 626 and the mechanic did a diagnostic test and said that it was a "crankshaft positioner sensor" problem. What exactly does that mean and what could possibly be the worst case scenario regarding this problem? The non-dealer mechanic didn't really seem too sure how to explain it to me. I think it's because he didn't really know either is my guess.
  • This little gizmo reads the crankshaft rotation and sends its results to the engine computer, which uses the data to help determine engine timing. Basically, it sits outside the crankshaft pulley and watches it turn; there's about a 1.5-mm air gap between the sensor and the pulley. Since this isn't the only sensor in play, the engine might still be running fairly well, but you still probably ought to replace the thing. It's doubtful that anything else will happen as a result of this failure.
  • And, in the message currently numbered as 351, I was - NE1 is definitely code 4. Next time I'll read the table. :)
  • fromatozfromatoz Posts: 15
    Maybe not the right place to post my question, but I know you guys must know the answer.

    I often drive my car to beach with my girlfriend and she always likes to sit in the car and listen to the music - oh, it's Sarah Mclachlan's Angel and she repeats it again and again for hours. It's romantic, but sometime I have to worry about the durability of the battery. If it goes dead, we will be left there in late night without any help in close reach. Does someone here know normally how many hours a full-charged battery can run with only the CD player and speakers on?
  • izippyizippy Posts: 7
    Thank's for your advice, it's greatly appreciated.
  • sharon27sharon27 Posts: 3
    I just picked up my new (2000) 626V6 yesterday (yippee!). I like it as much as I did before paying for it, but on my way home on the highway the steering seemed to be acting weird. On a straight road there's about an inch of play in the wheel that I don't remember from my test drive. Is this simply a less tight steering system than I'm used to from my Jetta or is it a problem? If it's a problem, does anyone know if it's a common one?

    Thanks for any help or general advice for a new owner (other than to tell me I made a mistake, which it would do me no good to hear at this point).
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,893
    An inch of play doesn't sound right at all. My '99 certainly doesn't have it. After 33,000 miles, my steering is still as tight as day 1. If nobody else here has a different experience with their steering, I would have the dealer check it out.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • haroldhx1haroldhx1 Posts: 14
    The problem came this morning. When I tried to lock the doors, I found the power door lock didn't work, and the car alarm couldn't turn on. Then, I found that the door-open warning light stays on even all the doors are closed tightly, and the radio and clock have no power to them. I am sure they worked fine yesterday. Previously, if I walked out the car without turn off the head light, there were some beeping sound to alert me. Now, there was no sound anymore. One funny thing is, if I turn on the head light, all the locked doors will pop released except for the driver-side one. I feel frustrated by this seven years' old car. Everything seems to go wrong during the last few days. Any help, please?
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    You have been a great help to a lot of people on this board. I don't own a 626 but so what. You still have my respect. Hope you can put up with the uninformed and less than stupid questions.
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