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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • kkidd1kkidd1 Posts: 1
    I have just spent 2800.00 on rebuilt trans(190K) and labour...new torque converter and new pressure solinoide. The mechanic inferred that the pressure solinoide was the reason the 1-2 shift was always "hard" and was probably the root cause of the break down of the transmission.These are "layman" terms for that is what I am....and kinda p/o'd. If someone is going to take a run at Mazda I would be interested.
  • I dropped my membership in the Transmissions Should Never Fail Club; the cognitive dissonance was causing my head to spin, and I have enough equilibrium problems already.

    The hard fact remains: It's hard enough to get any compensation from MNAO when the tranny goes at 51,000 miles, though it has been done.

    By all means, pursue whatever remedies you like. I have a great deal of difficulty imagining, however, a court that would rule that a transmission that failed after seven years or a hundred thousand miles is somehow defective.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,897
    Wait a minute. You had 190,000 miles on the tranny before a rebuild? What are YOU complaining about? I mean, at least the last complaint was just under a hundred thousand. But you had almost 200,000! You should be singing the praises of the car!

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • robc69robc69 Posts: 3
    I need some advice. I have a 98 Mazda 626. My lease is over next month and I took it into the dealer and was told the engine is blown. I have had some oil changes but they sludge had built up in the engine and the engine blowing was due to lack of oil changes. They will not even listen to my reasoning and don't want to see my oil change receipts because they where done somewhere else. I really can't afford what they are asking for a new or used engine at least $3000-4000. They refuse to cover it under warranty. And this is all one month before I have to turn in the car. I called Mazda Corporate and they offered no help in the situation. Does anyone have any advise I what I can do in this situation. Anything anyone can tell me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    (Note to Edmund's hosts and other digerati: This replaces an earlier message of mine with the same title which was lost in the last System Glitch®.)

    I guess the real question is "How many oil changes did they think you lacked?" If you followed the schedule in the manual, even if someone else performed the maintenance, their position crumbles like a twenty-year-old radiator hose.

    There's an "Engine Sludge" thread elsewhere in Maintenance & Repair, but it may cast more heat than light on the subject.

    Interestingly, the one thing in Mazda engines you'd think would be most susceptible to damage from sludge - the array of hydraulic valve-lash adjusters - turns out to be absent from the '98 626.
  • Hi,

    I have a '88 626, 240K, running fine, but the A/C has lost gas during the past 3-4 years.

    Looking for a cheap solution for this summer (who knows where this car will be next year) I found an $40 R134 retrofit kit, which seems to be quite easy to use.

    1. However, the fine print of the manual in the kit mentions that it may be necessary to replace other components (like the filter/dryer, or the valve) as well.

    Do you think I really need to do that for my Mazda, or this A/C is compatible with the new gas.

    2. Another thing I cannot understand is that according to the kit application manual I do not need to bleed and evacuate the system. It is OK that it has no more refrigerant, but what about the R12 oil that is probably still in there?

    Thanks

    Arpad
  • bakybaky Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a '88 626, 240K, running fine, but the A/C has lost gas during the past 3-4 years.

    Looking for a cheap solution for this summer (who nows where this car will be next year) I found an $40 R134 retrofit kit, which seeems to be quite easy to use.

    1. However, the fine print of the manual in the kit mentions that it may be necessary to replace other components (like the filter/dryer, or the valve) as well.

    Do you think I rally need to do that for my Mazda, or this A/C is compatible with the new gas.

    2. Another thing what I do not understand is that according to the kit application manual I do not need to bleed and evacuate the system. It is OK that it has no more refrigerant, but what about the R12 oil that is probably still in there?

    Thanks

    Arpad
  • robc69robc69 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. The problem with my situation is that I don't have receipts for all of the oil changes done because some of them were done at a local quick-lube place and they told me they don't have a computer system to pull up my account. My car has been sitting at the mazda dealership for 2 weeks and they won't do anything unless I pay for a new engine, which I don't think is fair. The lease is up in the middle of May and they want thousands for me to turn it in. I really don't know what to do in this situation.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    Do you mean km or miles?
    If you've had 190K miles on the original transmission - you should be damn glad if you ask me...
    By the way - there are lots of oppinions on the 1-2 "kick" shift. Did you have it since the beginning or it started just before the tranny died ?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    robc....you need legal counsel I think, because right now they have you behind the eight ball and you'll need more weight than what you have on paper. The best you can hope for I think even with an attorney's demand letter (this isn't worth going to court over--not enough money on the table unless you go to small claims without an attorney)...the best you can hope for is some kind of dealer or factory participation, where they split some costs with you.

    But right now they are intimidating you and you need to take a stronger and more rational position. Your current defense is too weak even though your cause may be very just.
  • raylwardraylward Posts: 2
    I'm considering buying a '97 626 V6 in good condition and 44K for $10,000. I'm buying the car for my teenage daughter who'll be away at college and I don't want her to have problems.

    Unfortunately, it doesn't have ABS and the car will be where it snows. Other than that potential problem, what other mechanical problems can I expect from this car and what is a realistic life of the car? Should I buy something like this or a Saturn? Thanks
  • The '97s have hardly any problems, except those that are common to this generation, most of which start cropping up after 60-75k - the occasional valve-cover gasket seepage, cracks in the CV boots, and the odd oxygen sensor - and the V6's transmission isn't the CD4E, which was still kind of problematic in those days.

    I passed up ABS on my current 626, and on the last one, and on the snowy days we had, I didn't find any reason to regret not having it.
  • gg1234gg1234 Posts: 2
    I am about to send my 1995 Mazda 626 LX to the local dealership for a check up. I am the original owner of the car. The car has about 57,000 miles. I have never had any problems with the car before. However, about a month ago, I started to notice some surge at high speed. Normally, the rpm of the engine is around about 2500 at speed of 60 to 65 mph with the O/D on. Recently, after the engine has been warmed up, the rpm sometimes goes eratic, fluctuating between 2500 to 4000. If I set the cruise control, the speed of the car remains unchanged but the rpm still fluctuates and I can feel the surge associated with the fluctuation. This only occurs when the speed is over 55 mph and the engine is hot. I have replaced all new spark plugs and wires. However, the surge is still there. Any suggestions on what the problem is? Does this indicate a transmission problem? The car is of automatic transmission.
  • izippyizippy Posts: 7
    Hello everyone, I hope everyone is doing well. My hold light has been flashing for a while and the dealership said it was caused by the distributor. But a new distributor costs over 500 dollars and since the transmission was still running properly I've put it off for awhile. Now today my wife is in the city and she tells me the speedometer starts jumping around and the car is surging ,then at the red light the car dies. It doesn't even crank over. She said some guys tried to help her boost it and they got it running but she said it was running "wobbly". I know I've had a belt that has been squealing on me for awhile and the mechanic can't seem to figure it out, whether or not that has anything to do with it or not I don't know. She also said that the radio lost power before the car did. The car is a 1993 Mazda 626 ES V6, any insight anybody could throw my way would be helpful. To start the car it needs to crank over for a few seconds before it starts is also related to the distributor problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.
  • Since this happens only at comparatively high speeds, I'm guessing the transmission is actually shifting itself in and out of overdrive. It's not necessarily a transmission problem, but something is telling the tranny to drop out of O/D at random intervals. The first thing I'd check would be the O/D-off switch on the shift lever, to see if something has gunked it up or otherwise made it act up. There's also the possibility that the range sensor (this is the gizmo that is supposed to match up the selected gear to the actual gear on the tranny) is out of whack, but this seems less likely.

    You're not getting the dreaded blinking O/D Off light, are you?
  • The combination of dubious distributor and failing vehicle-speed sensor can do this sort of thing. And I'd have the timing checked on this car, just as a precautionary measure; the ECU is supposed to control such things, but it's getting screwy signals from its input devices. (The VSS also contributes to the status of the Hold light.)
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    On my 93 Mazda 626 ES 5 spd, with the V-6 engine I had to replace the distributor after about 60,000 miles. There was no advance warning, the car just wouldn't start one day. Replacement distributor from Mazda was over $300 USD. However, rebuilds now seem to be available. Check out carparts.com and expressautoparts.com. Another bit of advice I can give you is to stay away from Mazda parts (and their service department) as their prices are really out-of-line.
  • izippyizippy Posts: 7
    Hello everybody, well I got my car towed to my mechanic and the crankshaft pulley was loose. It's the pulley that drives the belts and it was causing the belt to slip on the alternator therefore not providing enough charge to run the car. Does the alternator not charging enough related to the car surging before it died.Thanks for your input guys.In message 351 are the codes that the mechanic pulled from my car.Although that was awhile ago I couldn't afford then to get the alternator fixed.
  • Well, that was low on my list of Expected Causes, but I guess it did the trick, huh? :)

    If the power supply to the computer is erratic (and the alternator acting up because of a loose belt, or whatever reason, is the very model of erratic), the computer is apt to do all sorts of weird things, none of which the driver will like.
  • The '93 through '95 are particularly susceptible to distributor failures of one sort or another; most of these were cleared up by '96, but the correct answer was issued by Mazda in '98, when a distributorless ignition system was introduced.
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