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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    I have a 1991. It is a fun car to drive. It can handle mountain roads and curves with aplomb. My wife was scared of a canyon road and went down the canyon at 15 miles over the 35 MPH speed limit. When asked why, she said because I knew the car should handle it. We have really enjoyed the car.

    I have a manual transmission. It works well. If the car you want has an automatic, smell the fluid. If it smells burnt, or is any shade darker than a bright pink. Go the other way, or ask for a 2,000 reduction (the cost of a replacement transmission)

    Timing belts probably should be changed every 60,000 miles. My shocks had to be replaced at 80,000 miles.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If you have it from the original owner, or one who has owned it a long time, you can find out how often maintenence was done, and what repairs were performed. Then you can find out if the pedigree is good or bad.
  • katty2ukatty2u Posts: 3
    I looked at a '95 Mazda 626 LX this afternoon. It was a 2.5 6 cylinder with 91,000 miles on it. I didn't know much about Mazdas going in to looking at that car, and I told the salesman I didn't know if they were as good as Toyotas and Hondas. He of course tried to tell me they are just as good. From what I see on here they aren't. It looks like they have transaxle problems, AC problems, and are expensive to repair. The one I drove did shift rough, but so did 2 Accords I drove the other day. The salesman told me the Japanese use some different shifting mechanisms than American cars. I don't know to believe him. I wish I could find a Camry or Accord for the price of this 626! Anyway, I'd like anyone's opinion on what I should do. Thanks!
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Who worked for a dealer for 20 years said when purchasing a used Mazda with an auto Transmission, if there are any problems don't purchase it. He and I both have manuals.

    Mine has 115,000 miles and aside from steering repairs caused by an accident on Ice, and some normal maintenence items, it's been very good. It's a fun car to drive.
  • johnlwjohnlw Posts: 28
    Our 1998 626, 4 cyl. auto is about to run out of warranty--end of August. It has been mainly driven by my wife.

    It has about 36,000 miles. I have changed the oil every 5000, did the 30,000 mile service on schedule, and have had the transmission replaced under warranty. I believe the new tranny to be rebuilt.

    I wonder whether to cut my losses now, and trade it in while I can get something for it. The car is nice, sunroof, alloy wheels, roomy, clean. We have garage kept it, polished the paint like new.

    So why trade it in? BECAUSE OF THE STUPID FORD TRANSMISSION! (sorry) I think I can get $10,000 or so.

    Has anyone had a positive experience with this car and transmision? What % fail? We thought it slipped the other day, but no. Next time we'll get a Honda.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,671
    Trust me on this one - you're not getting $10K trade-in on that car. I've got a '99 with the six-cyl (the 6 adds about $1000 to the trade-in value) and trade-in is about $9K on it.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • jim243jim243 Posts: 7
    I having a stalling and then a no start problem with a 1990 626 LX automatic with abs. I think it is the fuel pump and I need to know where the fuel pump relay is located so I can check it. Also to remove the fuel pump after taking off the access panel under the rear seat, do you just remove the 8 tiny screws or is there something else you need to do? I would appreciate any help you could give me.
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    Has anyone replaced the clutch on a 94 V6 5sp?
    I am wondering how much will it costs.
    I guess it is more valid to ask how much the parts cost and how many hours of labor will it take since labor rate is $75 at the dealer in my area.
    I know it depends on how you drive but in general, how long would a clutch last on the V6s based on your experience?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I own a 1993 626 ES v6 with 165,500 miles. I had the clutch replaced about 8 months ago. The price of replacement all depends on where you go. I live in Maryland (Washington DC metro area). The dealers all wanted about $1,500. AAMCO was about $1,200 (12 months/12miles warranty). PEP Boys said they could do it for $400. Of course I took it to them and they proceded to tell me it was my transmission and not my clutch and they don't do tranny work. I then went to AAMCO and I haven't had any problems since (roughly 6,000 miles of driving). This was the first major problem I've had with my 626 but I try not to drive it that much any more because of the high mileage. I'm going for 200,000.
  • lint0rlint0r Posts: 1
    I recently had to get my distributor fixed. does anyone know how much that should cost? cause the bucking mechanic charged me bucking $820 to fix that and get my oil changed. well since I got that fixed it wasn't been giving me any problems. my "engine electrical" light is also going off all the time. the mechanic said that might be a weird 02 sensor, which he'd gladly replace for $300. the [non-permissible content removed]. besides that, it's a good car. does anyone know what I can do (cheap) about the engine light?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I also just put in two O2 sensors. I had to because my car failed an emissions test and I wasn't going to pay dealer rates for an O2 sensor. Why this car needs two I have no idea. I got them at AutoZone (again in the DC area - although they do have a web site and will ship them to you) for $64.00 apiece. I think the dealer wanted about $189.00 apiece plus labor. They are easy to put in yourself and I didn't need that stupid O2 slotted socket that I paid 8 bucks for. I just used a 12 inch long 1/2 wrench. I think an adjustable wrench will work as well. Just don't burn yourself on the exhaust pipe. You have to let the car run for a couple of minutes because the pipe these things go in expands and contracts. It gets hot real quick. I let mine cool down enough that I wouldn't get burned and they came out rather easily. Of course you can always take out that check engine light from the dash.
  • haroldhxharoldhx Posts: 2
    It's me again with a 94 Mazda 626 LX.
    Recently, I found that it's quite rough to start my car. After I left my car to the dealer for two days to repair a fan switch, it's getting worse. I don't mean that the car cannot start. Just that after I turn the key, the engine or the car ( I couldn't tell) trembles and knocks loud before it's started. But if the engine is warm (after a short trip), it starts quieter and smoother.
    What could be the problem?
    Do I need to go to get the fuel injection system cleaned?
    Thanks!
  • josie5josie5 Posts: 3
    Hi

    I just purchased a 1990 Mazda 626 DX Sedan with 103,000 miles a few months ago for $2300.00. (Too high?) My mechanic (whom I purchased the car from) put in a used transmission (30,000 miles on it)- which is still under warranty. I also purchased all new engine mounts for the car as well (almost $500 bucks).

    Besides the check engine light always on (which my mechanic said it's "nothing to worry about") and the shaking that happens when my car's in drive (but not in park) my question has to do with a transmission gasket that I recently learned from Jiffy Lube, that's leaking...

    Is the trans. gasket part of the actual transmission? Or is that something I'll have to pay extra for? And if so, how much?

    Appreciate the help,
    Jolene
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Let's discuss Jiffy lube and leaks. When I take my cars in for oil changes I always get the comment from Jiffy Lube that I have oil leaks. the last time was after I first put in synthetic. Normally I put in 3 quarts of conventional oil in 6,000 miles, but with synthetic it consumed only a quart.

    They always notify you of leaks no matter how slight. Sometimes they are not serious.

    Another time, they discovered a major oil leak from my valve covers that I hadn't noticed before. Oil levels had dropped a quart in 3 weeks. I got the gasket replaced and it stopped.

    Did Jiffy report that your Tranny fluid levels were low? If they didn't it might be a slight leak. Put a piece of cardboard under the tranny overnight and see if there is some dripping. It it's serious take it in.

    I would also take it in in a week to have the level checked again. If it is normal then check it once a month.

    It is a part of the transmission? It might as well be. A normal service on most transmissions requires removal and replacement of the gasket. If it leaks and causes significant loss of fluid it will ruin the transmission.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,671
    when is the last time it had a tune-up?
    could be a weak spark.

    Josie5 - you bought it from a mechanic? I would say there should be nothing wrong with it. If there is, take it back to him/her and tell them to fix it.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • josie5josie5 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice :)
  • matthewa1matthewa1 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 626 that i purchased used. It is an ES model with a 2.5 V6. It has plenty of power and is quite fun to drive. The automatic transmission shifts very hard, and when it is cold when you first crank it up it will eat second gear up. It had pretty high mileage but every thing seemed fine except for the AC not working. But one week after i bought i had to replac a front axle, and about two weeks later i had to put another one in on the other side. And now a few months later the damn thing wont start. It wasnt getting fire to the distributor cap so i replaced the coil. But now it still wont start and still isnt getting any fire. I have no idea what the problem is so if anyone knows or has any idea what the problem is please let me know. And if your thinking about buying a 626 dont. If youve got the money get a camry, there more expensive but well worth it.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    You mention that you bought this vehicle used....how used? Did you know the history of the car before you bought? Is it possible that the previous owner didn't maintain it properly?

    It's a shame you're having problems, but that is not necessarily grounds to condemn the entire 626 line. I happen to have a 97 with the V-6, and it has been virtually flawless. I looked at the Camry at the time I bought this car, but found the Toyota to be far too expensive with the V-6, as well as being really boring to look at and drive.

    To each his own.......

    As for recommendations on how to fix your problem, I'd consult a qualified technician. You might end up spending more swapping out parts on your own than you would having someone familiar with the car diagnosing the problem.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    My '93 ES V6 626 is doing fairly well. It is a 5 spd and terriffic fun to drive. After 80,000 miles it has had some problems but on balance it has not been too bad and seems quite reliable. I did have a problem at around 60,000 miles when I had to replace the distributor. As I recall the symptons were that absolutely nothing happened when the ignition key was turned. Unfortunately the distributor was quite expensive to replace although I understand that rebuilds are now available.

    How many miles on your car? Has the timing belt been changed?
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Naah!, it's just older. Things wear out and have to be replaced. On the bright side I've found steering components to be much cheaper than on my Subaru. I'm surprized your mechanic didn't recommend replacement of both axles at the same time. These along with tie rod ends, struts and strut mounts are best replaced in pairs. My wife slid on ice, and we have had to replace several steering components. Insurance paid for the wrecked side, but I had to pay for the undamaged side. The parts at 115k were showing wear anyway.

    If your regular mechanic can't find the starting problem, find an automotive electric specialist. They can diagnose and repair difficult things like this better.

    Put 150 miles on the Mazda just yesterday. Just as much fun to drive as the first day I got it.
  • Hello, I own a 1998 626. My automatic transmission failed at 51135 miles. I've purchased the car in 99 w/20,000 mi. Ford makes the autotrans. Knowing this I changed the fluid(easy to do) every 10000 mi. but it still failed!
    1000 mi past warranty just my luck right. anyway,
    this is what happened first the tranny started to shift real hard(like a shift kit) then the check engine light came on. this happened on the freeway. I got off the next exit.checked all fluids checked good.when I exited the parking lot
    I noticed the car was taking off in 2nd gear not 1st. The Dealer wanted to charge me customer pay.
    I complained to the Service manager and got it fixed under warranty thank god. this tranny is not cheap try $2700.. I talked to the mechanic and he told me the Protoge, Pick ups, SUV, Minivan
    have Ford trannys. The Miata and Millinea have
    Japan made tranmissions. My confidence in my car has been rattled. good luck to my fellow mazda owners.
  • I've got a '93 626 LX 4-cyl with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm quite happy with it and have had very few problems. However, just last week 2 of the plug wires started popping out of the 'silos' in the valve cover. They are hard to re-seat. It feels like air is compressing under the boots. When they pop up the plug wire is still gripping the plug, but the boot pops up, so the wire starts arcing to the valve cover causing rough idle and very sluggish performance. The entire set of plug wires was replaced a few months ago. How do I get the plug boots to stay on????
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The Protegé through 1998 uses Mazda's F4A-EL. Later models use the NA4A-EL, which is related to Ford's 4F27E (in the Focus) but which is not built by Ford.

    The Trib and the US B-series trucks have all-Ford powertrains.

    The MPV has a Ford Duratec engine coupled to Mazda's GF4A-EL tranny. (No, I don't know why.)

    I suspect anyone who swore by Japanese-built transmissions would swear something else after dealing with a couple of Mitsubishis. :)
  • freds5freds5 Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 626 LX 4cyl.-auto. Shifting from park to reverse is rough and "sticky"(from park to drive is sitll "sticky" but not as bad), which makes the whole car shake. I took the car to the dealership and told them about this problem when the timing belt was replaced at 60k miles. They said this problem is caused by a "weak mount". To do a propper diagnostic it would take them 2-3 hrs of labor time, they didn't say this would include repair cost. The transmission has been shifting between gears O.K. (jerks between 0-20, and 20-40 in stop and go traffic), but will this "weak mount" problem become aggrevate over time. Has anyone else heard of this problem before? I really appreciate this site and all the useful info on it:)
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's perfectly plausible, and yes, it should get worse as the rubber bits in the mount gradually erode away.
  • morris19morris19 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 626 DX and the engine light came on a few days ago. The car runs fine. I don't have a manual(lost it) so can anyone tell me what this could indicate. Post an answer or e-mail me @ morris31@hotmail.com....Thanks
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    This indicates one thing and one thing only: the need to have these codes pulled by someone with an appropriate scan tool. I realize that most people would rather gargle with Grandma's lye soap rather than spend two hours (and two hours of labor charges) getting problems diagnosed, but it can't be helped. Either ignore it, or get it looked at. There is literally no way to know what has happened without those codes.
  • allenbe44allenbe44 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 94 Mazda 626 ES with a V-6. I bought it from a 1 owner who didn't do good maintenance. The transmission shifts real hard from 1st to 2nd gear. Sometimes it will shift hard from 2nd to 3rd. Is this a sign of major transmission problems or with a little maintenance on my part, I can have this car shifting smoothly. I need help to get this car ready for my daughter who is returning to college this coming month.

    Also the brakes have a loud squeal to them. What is the best maintenance for this?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's not necessarily a harbinger of doom, but the tranny fluid is probably a shade of charcoal grey that looks great in suits and lousy in sumps. Get that changed pronto. And be aware that any Mazda tranny (this is the GF4A-EL) is going to have fairly firm shifts; this is a conscious design decision.

    Brake squeal is usually an indication of pad wear, in which case the fix is to replace the pads.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Of course codes will have to be pulled.

    My son's 1997 had this problem. The air flow was listed as wrong. They replaced the Oxygen Sensors and it ran fine for about 3 weeks. It went on again with the same codes. This time we took it into a Mazda Specialist. They said that they regularly have a problem with the Mass Air Sensor located just behind the air filter. They cleaned it up for $35.00 bucks. If it acts up again, then we will have to get it replaced.

    Those stupid sensors are expensive, but a necessary part of a very low emission vehicle.
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