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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX( 77k miles). It shakes dramatically when it goes beyond 70mph. But it's Ok below 60mph. Is it alignment problem or anything else? The other problem is when I try to accelerate , the gas panel sometimes vibrates a lot and it won't speed up.I have to take my foot off . What should I do with these problems?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,520
    Well, the over 70 wobble could be as simple as a wheel out of balance or as costly as a bad wheel bearing. Really nothing to do with alignment.

    The gas pedal vibrating is a new one on me.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • Probably a loose linkage.

    As for the over-70 wobble, if it goes away at even higher speeds, I'd suspect a tire; if it doesn't, I tend to think hardware.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Purchased an '00 LX-V6 new, and so far I'm a very happy first time Mazda/626 owner. However, I do have a couple small issues I'd like to share with the board...

    First of all, I've got the MT with vinyl shifter and park brake boots. Last summer I had the dealer replace both of them (warranty item, no charge) because they were each torn all the way through in 2 or 3 places. Last week I noticed that my shift boot is tearing again, which is a bit annoying. Anyone else had problems with this? Is there something I should be putting on the vinyl to prevent this? The dealer told me it's not necessary to treat the vinyl, the original boots must have been defective. I also live in the NE, so I'm thinking the stiffness of the vinyl when cold might be contributing. Can anyone with an ES MT tell me if they have leather boots? I'm thinking about telling the dealer I want leather if it's available...

    Second, I've been hearing a tapping sound in the rear of the vehicle when first starting out down the road in the cold weather. Found a TSB on cars.com which describes this:

    Technical Service Bulletin #00400R
    Date: 03/00
    Component: SUSPENSION:SINGLE AXLE:REAR
    Summary:
    SOME VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE A TAPPING NOISE WHICH CAN BE HEARD COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE WITHIN THE FIRST 10 MINUTES AFTER A COLD START. *TT

    Before I found the TSB, I had the car in for this, and the dealer gave me the old line, "we can't reproduce the problem". Has anyone else experienced the tapping noise and had it fixed? I'm wondering if I should print out the TSB and carry in to the dealer to show them.
  • Definitely give them the TSB, and have them leave it over night.
  • Dealer service departments are supposed to stay on top of TSBs, but it doesn't always seem to work out that way.

    For the record, the boot around my handbrake lever looks just fine, although I have some weatherstripping issues around the driver's-side door - I swear, they must be buying this stuff from Louie's Discount Rubber Recycling - and an act of blatant stupidity (I am capable of many such, alas) took a teensy slice out of the passenger's armrest.
  • Now that someone has opened the topic . . .
    The weather stripping around my drivers door has
    been loose for a few weeks. I've ignored it,
    hoping that the gremlins in my garage would take
    care of it. Unfortunately they took another
    course of action and now ALL four of the doors
    have drooping rubber seals.

    Any veterans of this particular malady care to
    give me the benefit of their experience??
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    I've not had experience with Mazda weatherstrip problems, but have fixed weatherstripping on a couple GM's I used to drive.

    After a bad experience one time with a mechanic who replaced my driver's side weatherstrip with a passenger side one (which peeled off inside 6 months), I decided to figure out how to do it myself. I ordered a new weatherstrip from a dealer, and purchased a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive from an auto parts retailer. I had the whole job done in 1/2 hour, and that particular car never gave me any more trouble.

    Since then, I've tacked up a couple loose weatherstrips on other cars, and that 3M stuff hasn't failed me yet.

    Don't know if your weather strip is attached using adhesive (I think some just have plastic clips), but if you have some time and patience it shouldn't be too difficult on any vehicle. Keep in mind that purchasing a new weatherstrip may be very expensive; the one for my old car cost $100+ both times!
  • I had basically the same problem with my '93; the stuff simply tears too easily. It does respond well to adhesives, but sooner or later I seem to end up with a section that's firmly glued to the door and a section that's curled up on the ground.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    I've just noticed this noise predominately from
    the right side for about 1 month. I have stainless
    steel mudflaps and thought that might be the malady. Removal of flaps on rear but the noise is
    still there. Monday a.m. I'll be calling the
    dealer in reference to T.S.B. #00400R and find out
    if parts need to be ordered.Thanx slickdog...by
    the way how do you say the year of your 626. I
    myself own a Doubleought 626 LX Freeport with a
    left leg flexor !! Zoom/Zoom
  • race136race136 Posts: 3
    I have my 95 626 for more than 3 years now. It got 145000 miles and never gave a problem until 3 month ago. I notice the engine oil was low and there was no oil leak. And the engine is making tapping noise. A mechanic told me that the O.-ring is wearing out. It is not worth to replace it for this car. He suggest me to get a new car.

    My question is, can I still drive the car and just keep refill oil? and how long can this last?

    I'll appreciate any input.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Nice to hear that someone else out there has experienced the tapping problem skibry1! The noise seems to come from the passenger side in my 626 as well. I'm interested to see what you find out when you mention the TSB to your dealer. I haven't called my dealer yet, as I won't have time to get the car in to them for at least another 2 weeks.

    Personally, I've never referred to the model year of my 626 by saying anything other than "two thousand", but use of the term "doubleought" seems to be quite common on these boards. I suppose it does roll off the tongue a bit more smoothly.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    What O ring is he talking about, camshaft seals, crankshaft seals?

    You might want to consider a Higher mileage Oil like those made by Valvoline, Quaker State, or Castrol. They are supposed to have additives that help condition seals, and stop hairline leaks.

    Is the tapping only when cold?
  • race136race136 Posts: 3
    The mechanic didn't specify. What I know is if I want to fix it, they have to open the engine. I am using Quaker State, but it doesn't help. There is no noise when the oil is full. But the engine burns a lot of oil very fast. The tapping noise starts when the oil level goes low. I have to add almost 2 quarts every 5 weeks, but there is no visible oil leak at the bottom of the car.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    my guess is that your mechanic says there is a bad oil ring on the piston. The oil ring is the bottom of the 3 rings on the piston. These things don't fail very often but rather can get stuck in the grove.

    I'd reccomend running a motor flush at your next oil change and then add some Rislone to the fresh oil. If that doesn't take care of the problem, you can get a little more life out of it by using an oil thickener like Morrey's, STP, or Motor Honey.
  • weebee3weebee3 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1996 626 LX. It's a great-looking car, but I'm thinking that's the only perk! During the two weeks that I have owned it, it's been shopped twice within a week. The idle was a little rough and had a long cranking time, but didn't think anything of it. Last week the CEL came on-took it to a Mazda dealer who replaced the Air Flow Meter and the R&R Coil. Told that the idle was out of adjustment and that it needed to "relearn" where it should be and that it may take some time. The same night, CEL on AGAIN. Next day, back in shop! This time, the code read that my gas mix is too rich, engine compression tested and Cylinder 3 is bad, and there's a sealing problem......and they recommend a new engine! Oh, yeah, the long cranking time is "possibly" caused by a bad fuel pump. My question is what the heck happened here? Did one repair cause more problems? So replacing parts didn't fix the problem, so now we blame a fuel pump. What do these Mechanics look for when they lift up that hood? The answer is "Show them the money!!!" I must say, I'm having second thoughts about this purchase already.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    while hindsight is 20/20 I'd recommend that on your next purchase you have a trusted mechanic look over your new prospects. Many good deals ARE too good to be true.

    As far the current set of problems, it does sound like the dealer was grasping at straws, but you may never know.
  • That much at least is true; the car does have to relearn its idle after certain hardware changes or adjustments.

    The dealer probably doesn't do engine rebuilds, so replacing the engine is what he would consider the proper approach. What I think can be summed up in two words: "second opinion".
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I just had my timing belt replaced and it took about 3 weeks to completely relearn the timing and return to full power. I was surprized it took so long, but it works correctly now.

    I would certainly get a second opinion. Call a Mazda dealer and ask if someone has recently left to start their own business. That's how I found mine. More consistent repair quality that way.
  • race136race136 Posts: 3
    Thank you for the responses. I will try the suggestions.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    On my 1991 Mazda I just had the Oxy sensor replaced and a Fuel Injection cleaning service that was run on a special machine for about 45 minutes. It has 121 thousand miles. I read in a manual that the sensor should be changed every 60K.

    For the first few minutes it ran a bit rough. But after the car warmed up it quieted right down and has been quieter and smoother ever since. My wife drove it for 100 miles yesterday and was thrilled with the increase in performance.

    On another car that had it's OXY sensor replaced at 170K it increased the average gas mileage from 21 to 26 MPG -- and that's on ethynol.
  • pjsichpjsich Posts: 2
    My wife owns a 1996 Mazda 626, 4-cylinder, automatic with about 70k miles on it. It has developed a slight knocking problem. After having only limited success with the after market fuel system cleaners, I thought I would check the base timing. The Mazda is very similar to the Ford Probe and I checked my Haynes manual and it describes the procedure - a key element of which is shorting across the Spout Connector. After some discussions and additional research, I came to realize this is how Ford organizes the ignition system on that vintage vehicle. Trouble is - finding the Spout on the 1996 Mazda. According to Haynes, the 1996, 5 speed transmission version has a pair of pins in the diagnostic connector that can be manually shorted. Prior year vehicles have the ICM integrated with the distributor (and the spout may be easier to find). This model year has the ICM integrated with the PCM - which is difficult to get to. I can't believe that resetting the base timing can be this hard. Does anyone (like windowphobe6) know where I can locate this connector on the 96, 4-cylinder, auto transmission.
  • The FS/automatic combo's spout connector comes with a shorting bar in place, which you have to remove; to be honest, I've never even looked for the thing, but that's what it says in the literature. The most likely place for this little dofunny is down in the distributor wiring harness, so if you see a two-wire cable that just seems to be going nowhere - and it has a plastic plug sticking into its maw - you've probably found it. (Checking this on my 2000 proved fruitless; it doesn't even have a distributor.)

    You do have a timing light, right?
  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    Checked the factory manual for the 97 /626/4cyl/auto. For this combo it appears you need the dealer's diagnostic hookup (NGS set) with this hooked up and set to PID/DATA monitor and record , engine normal operating temp and all electrical loads off , you can then use a timing light to verify timing is within BTDC 6-18 deg. Now if you had the FS or KL manual trans model you can ground the #10 terminal at the data link connector and then measure timing with the light. It also states that "basically, idle speed/ ignition timing adjustments are not necessary for this model" Hope this is of help.
  • pjsichpjsich Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info on the spout. Two engineers at work (who are also car buffs) tried to help me locate this thing to no avail. It sounds like the shop manual for the similar 97 model confirms that I will never find it. One other thing, if I take the vehicle in to my friendly mechanic's gas station (or Jiffy Lube) and ask them to check the base timing - well, what would they do? I can't imagine they have the Mazda specific diagnostic kit. Would they simply put the timing light on it and claim "they have checked and adjusted the timing". Or would they route me to my expensive local Mazda dealer.

    The knocking isn't too bad. If I periodically fill the vehicle with premium, it keeps it well under control. I reviewed many of the previous messages and noticed some folks suggested an engine clean-out by Jiffy Lube. Also, because of the deep well for the spark plug, I think some have suggested replacing the spark plug wires about now (the 70k mark). Any strong opinions on these options.

    Thanks again for the help
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    See #951.

    One of the signs that this treatment was needed was the demand for premium.

    I am really amazed at how much smoother the performance was. We've driven it over 500 miles now, and the engine is smoother and more responsive.

    I would also recommend the Oxy sensor. Recommended maintenence on those is every 60K. You can purchase them for a good price at www.buyoxygensensors.com. Purchase the OEM version to save labor cost, and having to solder one end of the connection.

    I would also recommend having the dealer clean the MAF sensor. My mechanic did it on my son's 1997 for only $35.00. There are details on this procedure in this and the Ford Probe's discussion group.
  • Well..... I just got back from mazda and my tranny needs to be replaced....2200.00 !!! It launches ok but seems to slip on 3rd or 4th gear. I have seen limited success on the part of people who have lobbied mazda about this very issue in 626 autos.... Has anyone had any success? I would be happy if they went 50/50 .... Any input would be great thanks!
  • mark38lmark38l Posts: 10
    My 98 Mazda 626 with 77,000 miles has had the check engine light on for about 10,000 miles. The light has come off and on starting at approx. 45,000 miles.

    The car has no problems, gas mileage and pick-up is fine.

    Is there a simple way to shut off this light? (fuse removal?)

    Thanks
  • This is clearly something that the DaimlerChrysler Five Star board and Ford's Blue Oval certifiers and any other dealer-improvement groups need to look into: why it is that people will do practically anything to avoid setting foot in the dealership once the keys are handed over.

    Dear Mark: Fix your oxygen sensor. That should make the light go off after two or three cycles.
  • w2323w2323 Posts: 60
    Hi guys,

    Just wanted to let some of you know that you can get an extended warrenty at sams club, also at some credit unions.

    I'm looking at an extended warrenty 7 years 100,000 miles through sams.

    The one I'm getting is for my Sienna 2001 costs about at 1100 bucks no deductible. You have to call them for pricing on the 100k one its not on their site. To get the site and number just call the number on your sams card.

    This warrenty also includes free rental and towing. I think its a great deal, I havent purchased my car yet but looking at a 626. I dont care what car you own. You should buy a warrenty. one bad ac or trans or engine and it pays for itself.

    Hope this is helpful for some of you guys.
    keep up the posts.
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