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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,907
    usually don't mean anything. you'll find they vary all the time within manufacturers' product lines. Look at the 2 liter engine (going back to mazda and ford products). I don't think they have the same numbers between any 2 models. Usually, you'll find the real clincher is in the cubic centimeters (which is more commonly listed than bore and stroke). Using the mazda website, I couldn't find anything beyond torque and hp and liters. Pretty lame i think.

    hey. don't worry about it. I like knowing useless stuff like this.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Both the 2.5 engines were on the drawing boards before Ford and Mazda decided to pool some of their engine-design work (translation: Ford is having Mazda do all the small fours from now on).

    Ford's Zetec 2.0 has very similar numbers to Mazda's FS, but they have nothing otherwise in common.

    Come to think of it, the FS is Mazda's third 2.0 four, and all three had different bore/stroke configurations.
  • Help,
    My 85 626 will start like a charm but stalls as soon as you put in gear.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanx
    8^)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Here's the update on the sunroof problem on my 94 626. The original motor was definitely toast and the wrecking yard motor from a 96 model worked just fine. But a much deeper and bigger problem was discovered: It seems that the cable system that runs in the sunroof on both sides is shot and it would take about five hours of labor to replace. The estimate to do the repair with parts and labor is around $700 (not including the replacement motor from the wrecking yard).

    Needless to say, I think I'm just going to live with an inoperable sunroof. Besides, I still have to replace the high pressure switch on the AC compressor at a cost of just under $400.

    I'm completely amazed and disappointed at how many problems I have encountered with this vehicle. It is the money-pit from hell and the very last Mazda I will ever own.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,907
    what exactly does "shot" mean? Do you know exactly what the problem is? How does that sunroof work? What is the design? Is it a motor that pulls cables through pulleys or what? I've never had a sunroof, so I'm looking for a little more detail. (anybody chime in here.)

    Hey, charles, what does FS stand for?

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's actually fairly simple - the motor does, in fact, pull cable through pulleys - but the real issue here is accessibility; it's not so hard to get to the motor, but access to the mechanisms at the far end basically requires that you remove the entire sunroof unit, hence the stiff price.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's not an abbreviation or an acronym or anything.

    Mazda has had basically four different series of four-cylinder engines: B, F, G and Z. The F series is basically middle-sized - the Bs (and their Z descendants) appear in 323/Protegé and the MX-5 Miata, and the Gs were used only in the bigger trucks and vans. The current designation (since 1993) is FSD, which is the F-series block with an aluminum head and DOHC. (The third-generation 626 had either the F2 or F2T, the latter denoting the turbo version.)

    For the sake of completeness, Mazda V6 engines are classified as J (90 degrees between banks) or K (60 degrees). The KLD is used in the 626 and the base Millenia. (The Miller-cycle V6 in the Millenia S is designated KJS.) The Js were last seen in the 929 and the rwd MPV.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    More bad news with my sunroof. Because the cables are bad, it now won't shut correctly. I found this out when I was washing the car and water started dripping onto the seats. I then went to the parts store and bought some RTV silicone sealant and put it completely around the edges of the sunroof to prevent rain from coming in.

    I don't think I want to invest in either putting a brand new factory sunroof assembly (around $1000 P/L) or a wrecking yard unit (around $500 P/L) which would be too risky. However, is it possible to convert the factory unit and have a manual sunroof installed in its place? I believe that mechanical sunroofs run around $500 P/L brand new making it a much lesser expensive alternative than an electrical sunroof.

    Besides, since a sunroof "hole" already exists in the roof, wouldn't make it easier to have an aftermarket unit put in?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It certainly wouldn't hurt to ask an installer if he has a manual aftermarket unit that fits in the existing hole.
  • acronkacronk Posts: 1
    My daughter's mazda has 190,000 mi and the engine fan quit. Any ideas as to why; cheapest way to fix it.
  • dgreene40dgreene40 Posts: 2
    Hi.

    I've got a 98 626 LX-V6 5spd with approx 29000 miles on it. The car's been fine, and the only problem I've had has been replacing the weatherstripping on the driver's side door.

    Anyways, I've got two things that have bothered me for some time that I've decided to let a dealer try and fix (while the vehicle is still under warranty).

    1. The car has a tendency to hesitate/surge while cruising at high speed. It's very slight, and not noticable on the tach, but enough to feel. It seems to be especially apparent when running A/C.

    2. There is an intermittent clicking noise coming from (I think!) the left corner of the dash. It seems to happen over bumps, when accelerating, and sometimes just when cruising. It's annoying, and I've got a feeling the dealer won't find it.

    Help from anyone experiencing similar problems would be most appreciated!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,907
    I also feel that surge in my '99. I guess its not help to you because I've done nothing about it. I think it is something with the AC, so I just ignore it. But, then again, mine's a lease and I'm not keeping it when its up next year. Anyway, guess I just thought you'd like to know its not just your car.

    As far as the noise, I don't have that problem.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Assuming all connections are up to snuff, I'd first check the relay that regulates the fan.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I assume it's a minor electrical voltage drop. The A/C compressor cycling on and off can produce something like this, though it doesn't have to be A/C-related. The ECU immediately attempts to compensate, and if you're feeling a "surge", it's probably slight overcompensation.

    Of course, if you're running cruise control, there are going to be all manner of slight irregularities as the ECU struggles to maintain the set speed no matter what.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,907
    I guess I should be specific with mine (as it may differ from the other poster). The surging is going on constantly. Its not a matter of an occassional thing. Its very slight, but it occurs with the regularity of a heartbeat. Like he said, you can't even see it on the tach, but you can feel it in the pedal.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • dgreene40dgreene40 Posts: 2
    It's the same on my '98... very slight surging, but constant. I don't think it happens without A/C.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    They'll definitely have fun with these things.

    On my drive home today, I decided to watch for just such a condition, and my particular finding - and this may have nothing whatever to do with anyone else's condition - seems to be that anything I feel in the pedal is the result of squirrely road conditions being fed through the suspension and into the cab; engine and wind noise levels seemed to be unchanged. Roads with billiard-table smoothness are as unknown in Oklahoma as Green Party candidates, so this will have to wait for my next out-of-state trip for any further research, but for now, I'm guessing that whatever problem you guys have, (for the moment) I don't, which leaves me way short of inspiration.
  • Help,
    My 85 626 will start like a charm but stalls as soon as you put in gear.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanx
    :~)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I noticed that due to some water damage (caused from a slight leak that may have been there for several months), the outer edges of the sunroof headliner inside my 626 is tearing very badly. However, other than that area, the overall condition of the headliner is very good.

    I called a couple of upholstery shops who gave me a rough phone estimate ranging between $200-$300 to replace the complete headliner. Since only the sunroof edges are worn, is there a "patch job" or a "quick fix" that anyone can recommend that I can do to overlap the area so that I won't have to replace the whole headliner? Right now I'm using duct tape as a temporary fix but it sure kind of looks "low-budget" - literally.
  • bud25bud25 Posts: 1
    I bought my 1994 mazda 626 lx with a 4 cyl. and 5-speed about a year and a half ago. After having some ticking noises coming from the engine I had a rod break in the engine. The beginning of my nightmare of the mazda 626
    I had a mechanic friend (ASE certified) put a new rod, rings, timing belt in the engine. I also had the head and crankshaft machined. Ever since I got my 94 626 back, I've had problems. It is blowing out blue smoke from the tail pipe when I drive the vehicle or if I rev the rpm's up when sitting in neutral. It has a bad ticking noise, and besides all that I have got starting problems.
    basically It starts, but then dies right away.
    Then when I try to start it again, it just keeps turning over like it's flooded. I then can get it started occasionally by putting the pedal to the floor and cranking the engine over, sometimes pounding away on the accelerator pedal seems to help it along. Once it does start, I have to keep it idling at about 3000rpm's or it will die again. After about 3 minutes the car suddenly smooths out and runs fine.(excluding the blue smoke and ticking noise)

    My friend said that all my problems are just engine management problems. But the dealer said that their was no codes and It was an internal engine problem.(oil getting into the cylinder)
    P.S. My friend said that after a few thousand miles the new ring seals would seat and the blue smoke would stop. Well It's been 3500 miles and the car is burning oil and blowing blue smoke.

    ??Who is telling me the truth??
    What can I do to fix this nightmare and get it running good enough to sell it and get something new.??? I would appreciate some good advice, I've been dealing with this for about three months now and have spent over $1,300.
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