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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    along with the strut mounts. Struts were about $250 with labor, and Strut mounts were another 300 if I remember correctly. It was done in conjunction with other repairs.
  • After reading enough messages on the failure of the 1994 and later Mazda 626 CD4E automatic transmission failures, I am despondent. My transmission is spilling fluid from the vent. Am I really faced with a complete rebuild or is the replacement of the redesigned pump plate and gasket a smaller job costing less? (cf. Message 17). Would a flush perhaps cure this problem?
  • Installing the new pump plate/gasket is indeed a smaller and less costly job, but that's not necessarily what's wrong with it. I suspect some other seal may have gone south. (This doesn't automatically mean "rebuild" either.) And no, a flush won't help.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    My 94 626 ES developed this about a month ago - if I turn on the right blinker, while on the brake pedal, it flashes way faster then usual.
    Like if I had a burned out bulb, but I don't.
    Also even without turning on the blinker, the indicator on the dash lightens up when pressing the pedal. And this is for the right one only.

    So it's an electrical issue and might be something like shortening a circuit or grounding or ... but any more concrete ideas ?
  • liuqyliuqy Posts: 2
    who know the quality and price of the tire of America Sliver? Thanks
  • We have a 1996 4-cylinder Mazda 626 (78,000 miles) with no previous problems.

    Yesterday it drove fine. Today it won't start, even with jumper cables. When the ignition is turned on, there is no sound. The only thing that works are the headlights--no radio, no interior lights, etc.

    I did leave the key in the ignition last night, and I may have left it turned partially on (to close the windows).

    Any diagnosis or thoughts? We are perplexed by not being able to jump start it at all.

    Thank you.
  • Get a plug in battery charger for a few dollars and plug it in for the night. It will let you know whether the battery is holding a charge.

    Auto Wreckers often have special booster cables that are much stronger than an ordinary car jump. If it does start with this, then you will need to use a battery charger to charge a long term charge. Alternators don't fully recharge.
  • Overnight charge didn't work. Car was towed. Garage has been spending many hours trying to find out what is wrong. Any thoughts that might help them?
  • Something is interrupting the power to that circuit only, so my first thought is to check the appropriate fuse.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    There are too many things that could cause this. Window is right about the fuse. I'm thinking that a wire to the starter could have come off or gone bad. It could be the starter itself, although it usually would make some sort of noise. It also could even be the ignition switch itself. The list goes on and on.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • i have the aforementioned vehicle and recently the atx has a problem it only has 120k highway miles on it but it now has a distinct rattling in the tranny while idling....i've been told my bands are lose and only hope is a rebuild....but i have found it's cheaper to replace here in texas, than it is to rebuild. does anyone have advice on what i should look for in a tranny. i found a place in houston that grabs the rejects of japanese inspection and sells them "low mileage used". they gave me a quote of $995. whadda ya think
  • Hello, I own a 1998lx 626 2.0l 4cyl. auto Transission. This Ford unit failed at 53K miles.
    I changed the fliud by dropping the drain plug every other oil change. Easy to do and cheap about 3.50 a change 3.5 qts.
    owned the car since 1999. Paid 13k for the car w/12k miles. Seemed to be a good buy..the car handles well and has a spacious interior and trunk. Dash looks Quality..and it was 3k cheaper than a Camry and 5k cheaper than the Accord.
    Mazda went 50/50 on the repairs still came out to $1650. Totally unacceptable. It looks like I'm married to this car. I checked the used market
    and one can be had for $7500. Not a good resale value. I wonder if the word is out on dealership trade-ins to avoid this Car. My Plan is to install Transmisson cooler and change the dog out of the fluid. What else can I do?
  • The most important thing, I think, is to make sure you get a box for the '93. A later tranny might work; '92 and before will not work. (For 1993, the transmission was switched to complete computer control; there isn't even a throttle cable.) I have no experience with, um, slight irregulars, but if the seller is willing to back the product, go for it.
  • Drain and refill is nice so far as it goes, but it doesn't go much of anywhere with the CD4E with its internal filter; this is a tranny that really needs to be power-flushed on a regular basis. (I follow a 2-year/24k schedule myself.) Adding the cooler will likely help, since the earliest units tended to run hot. Transmissions remanufactured by Mazda (which are now actually remanufactured by Delco Remy, which bought Mazda's Jacksonville tranny facility) are supposed to have the most recent incremental improvements, but you never know exactly how old the replacement unit is - and there was a running change halfway through model year 1998 - so I can appreciate a certain level of wariness.
  • I know this may sound silly, and perhaps/probably I am missing something... Does anyone know how to remove the air filter on the 99 626 v6?? I checked the owners manual and it simply says to remove the clamps.. I see only one clamp (RT Front of Air box as you face the car) and that won't help open the box by itself... What am I missing here???

    Thanks.. I have changed air filters before:)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I have a mechanic who is a Mazda specialist for 20 years. Here is what he does when he transmission overhauls are needed.

    1. He uses factory rebuilds only like you should have had.

    2. He installs a transmission cooler -- a more expensive one that can regulate temperature.

    3. He changes the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles.

    4. He adds Lubegard, or another product called Wear Guard.

    He feels that this is adequate, but since you had transmission problems even changing regularly, I would recommend spending the extra and getting synthetic fluid.
  • z88z88 Posts: 5
    Hi, all

    I am approaching 60,000 mark on my 98'626 V6-ES and thinking about let the dealer do the 60K service. It costs $450. Fair deal?? Necessary?? Does anyone changed their cars timing belt? I am going to change it, it will cost me $400, ouch!!


  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Don't do it yourself. Unless you know how to change the Cam and Crankshaft seals. Mine was changed at 90,000 and at 120,000 it has to be changed again because the seals leaked and softened the timing belt. If under warranty have the dealer do it, and make sure that they are using an experienced mechanic. Otherwise find a good local mechanic.

    Clean the MAF sensor, retorque the engine and transmission mounting bolts, replace transmission fluid (if automatic, put in synthetic) and filter, replace the following fluids brake, power steering, engine coolant. I recommend Lubegard for the transmission and power steering. it can be found at Napa for about $20.00 for both.
  • My 90 626 5spd makes a ticking/sputtering sound under load when it is cold. If I let the car idle, you can't hear it. It's more of a sputter than a tick and I am positive that it is not the lifters.
    The sound goes away after the car has warmed up. My mechanic says i just have good ears
    because he can't hear anything. They even hooked it up to some diagnosic machine and all read good. The car drives well even when it does sputter and i get 32-33mpg consistently.
    Please help, this is driving me nuts.
  • Hi,

    First of all I have a 2000 Mazda 626 ESV6 with about 40,000 miles on it. It goes with out saying that I use it fairly heavily. I have a problem that has been going on on and off for several months. Every thing seems to be fine but the car won't start. As "windowphobe6" suggested earlier (thank you for that) it looks like a problem that the car some how thinks that the gear is on and it won't start. So, whenever this happens I just get down and give the car a push (while in park mode) and I invariably hear an audible click. Then the car starts fine. Is this sign of a major trouble waiting to happen? And also, my car is an auto shift and I noticed some thing concerning. After a long drive, the plate on top of the gear stick .. the one marked with the gear position (sorry for the low tech description) gets hot. I noticed this because I keep my cell plugged into the lighter plug and the cell gets hot too. Is this sign of some kind of trouble? And also, more importantly, my car makes a lot of noise/sound while accelerating from park (at traffic lights.. and I don't press to the floor) and it's definitely not as smooth as a Camry or an Accord. Is this normal for a Mazda 626? Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.

    - A concerned owner.
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