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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • 24,000, or every other year should generally be fine.

    I sure like synthetic in the tranny. Huge difference with 2 of my vehicles.

    No sure about engine oils yet. One with a small hard working engine uses synthetic, my Mazda currently uses hydrocracked Valvoline Maxlife, and my old beater still uses a dino blend.
  • My Mazda had almost all of the suspension components replaced last January due to wear and a small accident.

    The only way to tell if the wheel bearings are shot is to take it into a shop. When they take the weight off of the wheel a bad bearing is noisy.

    My repairman was a Mazda specialist at a dealer for 20 years before he set up an independent shop.

    He said that the front struts on Mazdas are expected to last about 80,000 miles. The most obvious sign of strut wear is leakage. Check to see if it is bent out of shape as well. Failing to smooth the ride over those small bumps however may be a clear sign that replacement is needed. Again, a mechanic will be needed to let you know. I put premium shocks on the front and don't regret the extra $50.00. It's a better ride.

    My son bought the Mazda I now own at 65,000 miles. It always vibrated just like you said. At 110K, after the above accident and all other repairs were made, it still vibrated at high speeds. It also wouldn't track straight. The core problem was that the ball joint was worn out. Since we had neglected it so long, the power control arm on that side was bad also. Have the mechanic definitely check the ball joints. It if had been repaired earlier it would have saved me a bundle.

    Since we had neglected the repair so long we also had to replace the tires. A wheel alignment should also be considered.

    I think that with the appropriate repair you can have a better ride than new.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I had my '99 626 (4cyl) transmission serviced today. ($65 incl tax - for a drain plug loosened up and new fluid put in - I'll do it myself from now on) I talked to the mechanic (20yrs + of Mazda exp) and he said that if it were his car he'd go longer than 60k on the timing belt. Any testimonials on this one way or the other?
  • Well, exactly the same belt is supposed to last 105,000 miles in California - the Assembly apparently thinks it can regulate the laws of physics, which explains much about the state's Air Quality Board - so presumably there's that much margin built into the belt, and therefore I don't think it's necessary to run to the shop the moment the mileage rolls past 59,999.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    if you ever needed some shread of legal recourse, suggested interval is 60k.
  • On the other hand, 60k is beyond the usual warranty period. (I have no experience with Mazda's own extended warranty, so I have no idea what it covers or fails to cover.)

    What I never could figure out was that California recommendation to inspect at 60k, 75k and 90k (I think: the manual is out in the car, and it's 19 degrees fercrissake, and I'm not going out in the snow to go look at it), and replace at 105k. I mean, if you're going to open the covers and look underneath, you might as well change the belt and be done with it.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    The timing belt, that is, on the 4cyl engine?
  • It would help if you have a steering-wheel puller, because that's what it takes to get the crankshaft pulley out of the way - that is, once you've removed all the accessory belts and the power-steering pump, but before you start taking off the valve cover.
  • I have a '93 Mazda 626 ES with 5 Speed. Recently the dashlight for the security system has started to malfunction. When the car is locked the light comes on and stays on until a key is put into the ignition. When the system is armed, the light is supposed to flash and turn off when a door is unlocked. Has anybody else had this problem?
  • 34423442 Posts: 7
    Purchased a "94" 626 ES V/6 5-spd.a couple months ago with 97,000 mi. seems like a good car so far with the exception of lifters that are noisy all the time, mechanic said he's heard worse. He sugested puting a 1\2 qt. of tranny fluid in before I changed oil and run for 15 min. and drain. Then add an additive called MOA to oil.Said that would maybe clean the sludge out. Anyway that didn't make any difference. Has anyone had that problem with the V\6? Mech. said to replace lifters would run around $1000.00. Haven't checked any other place. Anyone having this problem would appreciate any help. Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    my '99 V6 had a bit of noise as well. I believe this was a topic of discussion quite some time ago here. Don't remember if there was any resolution. But, anyway, I just ignored mine. My Toyota had WAY worse valve tapping. Of course, I don't know exactly how loud yours is, so I can't tell you if you should do anything. I doubt I would put $1000 into it, though, just to eliminate a bit of noise.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    When I was passing by and browsing I realized this question. As an x-mazda 626 owner, all I can say this is pretty much normal for Mazdas. At that time I was recommended engine flush + genuine mazda oil filter. After market filters are not capable of keeping oil pressure. Advises helped but did no resolve the problem. Good luck.
  • 34423442 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the come back. Yes, I agree $1000.oo is a little much just to eliminate lifter noise. My main concern was what the lasting effect would be eventially on the engine.Thanks again
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    put it this way, even if you let it go and it DOES become a problem. It will still be a rebuilt head and you'd still be looking at a grand to fix it (not counting inflation :). So I say just live with it.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    As mentioned before, the Mazda oil filter does help a lot.
    I won't worry too much about the noise. Had 138k miles on my 93 ES and it is still running strong, despite the noise when engine is cold.
  • I just purchased a 2001 626 LX I4 auto,Does Bosch oil filters work well or should I use Mazda filters, also can anyone recommend an after market tranny filter.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I've got a 99 626 w/ 4cyl engine. Approx 54k miles. Just had the transmission serviced. They drained what came out and I had them add 10oz. bottle of lubegaurd. For the first time I notice hesitation on takeoff. Could this be the beginning of the dreaded tanny problems with the 4cyl? When car is is in park there is no hesistation at all when I rev the engine. Once the car is moving there is no problems. SHifts are all smooth as ever.
  • My Dad hadn't serviced his tranny for about 60,000 miles. After it was first serviced, it did the same thing for about 6 weeks, including a long trip. I checked a couple of months later, and it had settled down. When I drove it on a longer trip about 6 months after the repair, it performed flawlessly.
  • Not for the CD4E/LA4A-EL; the filter is internal (and I mean way internal) and not accessible without major disassembly.
  • Has anybody used or recommends using a magnefine in line filter.
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