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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    And I left out MPV in my previous post...
    There hasn't been any test drives with the V6 6 yet since it is only available for the American market. Hope it would turn out well.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Flat Rock started doing the 626 for model year '93; they were already doing the MX-6 and Ford Probe there.

    A lot of people are persuaded that the Mazda FS 2.0 and the Ford Zetec 2.0 are one and the same. They aren't even close, except in displacement.

    Consumer Reports routinely slams the '94 626, which has been a "used car to avoid" for some time, but the '93 has generally fallen into that ambivalent category "average".
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I'm 3600 miles into this year's road trip in my 2000 626 LX, and I haven't had any - and I'm averaging just under 30 mpg. With the automatic and a whole lot of A/C, yet.

    Just thought I'd interrupt the gloom and doom for a moment. We now return you to your regular programming.
  • petra02petra02 Posts: 33
    Do you think some of the problems you've experienced can occur in the MX-6, as well? I know the MX-6 had the same engine and transmission, so it wouldn't really surprise me.

    Thanks in advance.
  • cpindercpinder Posts: 1
    I have a Mazda 626 (1989). It blows fuses and turns over but has no spark. I know there is a short but I don't know where or how to find it. Anyone able to help?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,468
    What fuse(s) is/are blowing?

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • pegasus3pegasus3 Posts: 4
    Well, as you know I had a rebuilt transmission installed about a month ago and coming back from a trip the OD light started flashing again and the tranny started slipping. Once we stopped and let it cool of a few minutes it stopped doing this. The warranty company thinks it might be a bad speed sensor (the over drive won't engage now). I could see where a bad speed sensor might be the problem with the over drive but would that also explain the slipping?
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    My question to MazdaUSA: I have a 2001 Mazda Protege ES with a manual transmission. The owners manual states GL5 or GL4 as the correct transmission fluid. I have heard that you are not supposed to use a GL5 that has sulpheric additives in it. Is this correct? If so, why is there no footnote regarding this in the owners manual?

    MazdaUSA answer: "You've inquired about the recommended manual transaxle oil for your
    2001 Mazda Protegé. Mazda recommends using API Service GL-4 or GL-5
    transaxle oil for your vehicle as stated on page 10-2 of your Owner's
    Manual. Please understand, there is no way we can tell all the
    additives in the oils. The manufacture of the oil is supposed to make
    it to a certain specification level. As such, we recommend using a
    good
    quality GL-5 oil, and you should be fine. I hope this information is
    helpful for you."
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Reply to the response from MazdaUSA: Do sulpheric additives harm the synchros in the manual transmission of a 2001 Protege ES?"

    Response from MazdaUSA: "Unfortunately, we don't have a chemical breakdown on any of the
    transaxle oils on the market. However, if you get a good quality manufacture oil, it should not have enough sulpheric additives to cause
    any damage to the transaxle components."

    Finally! A definate answer. I can now sleep at night!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Drivetrains are identical, and suspensions nearly so, so what holds for one will also hold for the other.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Thank you! I'm off to buy Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube.

    Dave
  • drrotwangdrrotwang Posts: 2
    This is reference to our MAZDA 626 ES V6, purchased new in May 1999 with 26 miles on the odometer. The automobile came with a standard 3 year 50,000 mile unlimited warranty excluding items mentioned in the Owner’s manual and warranty. Currently the car has 48,542 miles on the odometer and is a little over three years old. Most of the miles are highway miles. The car has not been used for commuting on a daily basis for the last two years. Further the car has undergone regular oil changes and lubrication jobs and standard visual and electronically monitored inspection.

    In April 2002, the car began to drive roughly especially when changing from neutral to first gear and this problem was not limited to shifting on a “cold” engine. We took the car to an authorized Mazda dealership (Gaithersburg Mazda in Gaithersburg, MD) with a complaint of a “notchy” gear shift from neutral to first. The car was under warranty at that time. The service manager, drove the car and said that it drove very well and did not appear to have any problems. He determined that the fluid in the transmission should be replaced with a synthetic oil which had better lubrication properties. We emphasized at that time that we wanted the problem investigated and assumed that a qualified service manager trained on Mazda vehicles had assessed the problem correctly. The dealership changed the engine oil and performed a complete service for the car along with replacing the transmission fluid with synthetic oil.

    On July 16, 2002 the gears jammed while the car was in traffic creating a hazardous situation for us as well as other motorists on the road. With the assistance of the police we were able to push the car to the side of the road. This had the effect of unlocking the gears after which we promptly drove the car to Gaithersburg Mazda. We contacted the dealership by telephone and he asked us to bring the car in for a checkup. We drove it to the dealership around 3.30 pm. and were quoted a sum of $89.00 for an estimate of the problem and an engine oil change.

    The next day (July 17th 2002), around noon, we were told that they were checking the car but had not found any problems. Around 5.00 pm we were told that the car needed new pressure plates and maybe a release and pilot bearing and we are responsible for the costs since the car was no longer under warranty.

    We discussed this issue with the Service Manager and informed him that the problem was brought to the dealerships attention while the car was under warranty. We also called the MAZDA national service number and spoke to one of the representative. She said she would refer the matter to the Area Manager and call the dealership. She called back after a few hours and informed us that the item was a “wear and tear” item and notwithstanding the warranty, was nor the responsibility of MAZDA. We then spoke to the Service Manager who stated the same i.e. that the problem was a “wear and tear” item and asked us to look in our warranty agreement for the same.

    Our warranty and service manual does not say that the pressure plates, release and pilot bearings and in general the transmission are “wear and tear” items. To the contrary it specifically lists the items that are considered “wear and tear”. Further, there is an explicit statement stating “Your complete and permanent satisfaction is our business”. We are not satisfied with the quality of service that is being afforded us by MAZDA. Replacing the transmission fluid with a synthetic fluid is the simplest solution, and we are convinced that if a more thorough investigation had been performed when the problem first occurred, we would not have been subjected to the kind of hazards that we faced everyday under the false assumption that the transmission was not problematic.

    We are looking to MAZDA to immediately correct the problems that may be present in the transmission or in other systems in this car. Further, MAZDA should accept responsibility for this/these problems and correct them at no cost to us.
  • newtomenewtome Posts: 2
    I have been a VERY happy 5 sp. 323 owner since 1989 (230K on original eng. & trans., only clutch replacement at 198K). (I know -- I've been very lucky!!) Got rear-ended recently and am now thinking of purchasing a low mileage (just over 40K) 92 626. Read about 1/2 this forum and it appears that the AT in the 92 doesn't have the 94 probs. The car checks out well on Carfax and I will test drive it tomorrow.

    My questions are:
    - Are there any red flags I should look for during my inspection and road test?
    - What can I expect as far as reliability and frequency of repair (assuming its one owner took good care of of the car)?
    - Also, I don't have a mechanic in the area where the car is located. Does anyone here have experience using Magoo's Automotive Consultants linked from Carfax? Do you have other suggestions on getting a professional's opinion before I fork over the $.
    - The seller's asking price appears to be based on the Kelley Blue Book Private Party value rather than the Edmonds TMV. What justification can I use to get the selling price closer to the TMV?

    Thanks so much for all your help.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I have a 1991. Here are my suggestions. to your questions.

    My questions are:
    - Are there any red flags I should look for during my inspection and road test?

    Shocks, carefully inspect any steering components. They're fairly expensive to replace if it's been in a wreck that affects steering. Check the color of the transmission fluid. Get repair records if you can.

    - What can I expect as far as reliability and frequency of repair (assuming its one owner took good care of of the car)?

    I would change out the tranny fluid every 15K and add Lubegard as recommended by my Mazda specialist mechanic. Shocks are not the strongest. other than that it's a pretty reliable vehicle. Timing belt should also be changed if it hasn't due to its age. I would also change out power steering and brake fluids to keep those systems clean.

    The seller's asking price appears to be based on the Kelley Blue Book Private Party value rather than the Edmonds TMV. What justification can I use to get the selling price closer to the TMV?

    I would be asking about annual longer trips. This should help clean out all of the short trip mileage stuff that has obviously been going on.

    If he has then the higher value might be worth it. If well maintained, it might be a cream puff and very dependable.

    Good hunting.
  • hoppa1hoppa1 Posts: 1
    I am strongly considering buying a 2000 626 LX. It has 90,000 miles (90% highway) and has had excellent care/maint. I am concerned about all the postings I have read regarding Mazda transmissions. I have not seen any comments on the 2000 model. Did Mazda finally fix this problem? The transmission was serviced yesterday (routine) and was also serviced at 50,000 miles. Also, the seller is asking $8,000, is this a good price?
  • For one thing, most of them are still under warranty and no one has had to pay for a rebuild yet; nothing stirs someone to post quite as effectively as having to write a large check.

    That said, I have a 2000 LX. If I thought it was going to be a time bomb, I wouldn't have bought it. Then again, I also have the transmission serviced at 15k intervals, just as a precautionary measure.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I checked for a 4 cyl Mazda LX with 90K miles and in my area the fair sale value is 5835 Kelly Blue Book to a dealer. Fair KBB Sale was 10,000, however that did not list any dediction for miles, while the sale value did not. If you deduct 10 cents a mile for the excessive 45,000 miles is a $4,500 deduction. Just about right IMHO that's a lot of miles.

    Is this a 6 cyl?
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    We have 40k on our 2000 LX 130 ponies hooked to a clutch. What a sweetie! Regular maintence has been preformed and she has never had the HOOK attached to its frame. I would highly recommend this car to
    anyone. MPG is inthe upper 20s to lower 30s depending on trip lengths. What a great value for your buck. ThumbsUp USA Bryan
  • mamey1mamey1 Posts: 3
    Hi. I own a 2000 626LX. It has about 40,000 miles. Recently I felt a minor vibration (bumpy)when I steer or turn the car to the left. It usually occurs at slow speeds. The vibration is similiar to driving over a speed bump.

    Steering? Shocks? Anyone have an idea what is causing this?
  • Hi everybody. I bought my 1999 626 LX in USA, while living (and working) in there (great experience and great country). The car came back with me to Spain one year ago. Recently, the car started leaking coolant liquid after the engine is switched off. This happens not always but frequently. The leak is through the purge of the coolant tank, after the coolant pass from the radiator and fill it out. By considering that the car is quite new, 3 years and 45K miles, you can imagine I´m not too happy starting with car problems. Additionally, even the car is still under warranty I can not use it because it happens that is not valid outside the USA.
    Does anybody have a clue about this problem?
    Thanks in advance.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,468
    how much are we talking about here? Are you talking about the overflow bottle? Is it full now and any extra spills out the top? I'm a little confused and not quite understanding where exactly the fluid is coming from. If its overfilling the overflow bottle, then I would think your problem is just too much coolant. the system will only hold what it needs. There are 2 lines on the overflow bottle. 1 is for where the level of coolant should be when the car is cold and 1 is for when its fully warmed and running.

    I think I need a better description to possibly help you. Unless someone else understands or has had this issue?

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • thank you for replying, qbrozen
    I´m sorry my english vocabulary is not as extensive as I´d like, but I´ll try to explain the problem better.
    The amount of leakage is not small, I´ve had to refill coolant several times during last week. In some case the leakage left the coolant tank (bottle, deposit, I´m not sure about the right word, in any case, where you refill coolant) almost empty (under minimum mark). I don´t think is an excess of coolant because I refill between MINIMUM and MAXIMUM indicated levels, as always and this has not happened before. The sequence of events is: after driving for a while, when you switch off the engine the coolant starts passing through the hose that goes from the cap of the radiator to the coolant bottle (this cap has an spring that under overpressure allows coolant go out to the expansion bottle). The problem is that the amount of coolant that passes completely fills the coolant bottle and then coolant starts going out the circuit through the purge that comes out from the cap of the coolant bottle, in some cases as I said before leaving the bottle almost empty. It looks like there is an overpressure in the circuit but I can imagine why. It could be the radiator cap is not working properly (maybe it opens the output to the coolant bottle at lower levels of pressure, but I don´t think so). The temperature indicator looks O.K. when driving.
    the car is a 4 cilinder, manual.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    It does sound like a leaky radiator cap. It will only cost you US$8 to find out.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,468
    I think you and maltb have it. When either the gasket on the cap or the spring wear down, it no longer holds the pressure that it should. Replace the cap with one from your local parts shop and see what happens.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • thank you qbrozen and maltb
    I´m going to change the radiator cap and I´ll check it out during next week, that I´ll be out on vacation. I´ll tell you about how it was on august 20th
  • Well the transmission was replaced (rebuild), O2 sensor replaced, now the over drive sensor. A month after the rebuilt tranny was put in the OD light started its flashing again coming home from a trip. After a few days the OD will not engage (stuck in highway mode). The replaced the OD sensor but it still won't engage. Now they are asking me if I spilled anything in the hand brake. I have heard, and I cannot remember where, that there is something under the hand brake area that will go out if liguid gets spilled and leaks through this area. Could this be the problem and what is it that would have gotten leaked on? I cannot remember anything spilling down the hand brake but with two kids who knows.
  • Among other things, the shift linkage - and the wiring for the O/D switch.
  • hink2hink2 Posts: 4
    I bought my 626 new in 1994. It is now on its third automatic trans. For a while I pondered how Ford could make such poor transmissions after so many years in business. However, by the time the third transmission started failing (with the same series of problems as the first two), my dealer had learned something which stopped the problems in their tracks. The dealer informed me that if I put in a new radiator and an auxiliary, after market, transmission oil cooler, that might end the problem. I was doubtful, but I trusted the service manager, and ~$400 later the parts were in. That was almost two years ago. The tranny problems immediately went away and have not returned, even in the heat of this very hot summer. So here is what I think: Mazda has (or had) a design problem with transmissions- certainly those installed in the mid 1990's on their 2L, 4 cyl cars. They finally figured out what to do about it, but typical of a car company, especially one associated with Ford, they would never admit to it- might cost them some dough!The '94 626 is a nicely styled car,and the engine has been tight as a tic, but overall body quality is mediocre. If I had bought a Honda in "94 I would have never had the pile of problems, tranny and many others, I've put up with. My estimate is that "extra" repair costs, other then normal wear items, e.g. plug wires, plugs, timing belt, etc., added at least $3000 to the selling price over the past 8 years of ownership (not forgetting the many inconveniences). I would be hard pressed to consider another Mazda. Although, their new rotary model looks interesting! I can only hope it is way overpriced for what it offers- like the new T-bird.
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    To be fair, every manufaturer has its own problem.
    Look at the Honda Accord and Acura TL threads and you will see people having multiple auto transmission failures also.
    Read the Camry threads and you will see engine sludge problems.
    Read the VW threads and you will see even more problems...
    I guess rather than avoiding certain brand, the best solution is to be an educated consumer, know the facts, the problems, and how to prevent them.
    That's why these forums are so useful.
  • hink2hink2 Posts: 4
    I would be more sympathetic to your statements if every chatline and database on cars that I've been to (including federal) have been filled with '94 Mazda auto tranny complaints. The issue, for me, is not poor design (testing, quality control, etc.) that causes the buyer to absorb millions of dollars of expense, it's the general reluctance of multinational companies to own up to their responsibilties to their customers. As for me, I'm just glad they figured it out. As for my next purchase- well maybe you would be well advised to sell FORD and Mazda stock if you have any. They have great ads, but quality, honest dealing- well perhaps that's expecting too much from an American corporation these days.
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