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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • It's the lifters. Use a Mazda filter and synthetic oil.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    That confirms my suspicions. Usually it goes away after a minute or 2. I can also avoid the issue by using a block heater.

    I recently changed to a 5W-30 4 quarts Maxlife/ 1 quart Synpower blend over my 10W-30 conventional. Haven't noticed any change.

    I am using a Mobile1 Filter. Is Mazda better?
  • i just bought a 1995 626 4 cyl auto trans couple of months ago. just recently i noticed that while parked in drive the idle is rough and when i accelerate the engine hesitates an almost dies but if i release the brake and allow the car to roll fwd a foot or so then step on the gas pedal it takes off fine. also during a trip i made last week the od/off light started blinking and has contiuned to this date also a light symbol looks like the shape of an engine came off and on during the trip this indicator light is located next to the high beam light indicator within the tachometer. i don't have a mazda manual so i don't know what this light is for. i would appreciate any help in order to fix these problems. thanks, john
  • They are probably close in quality but it probably wouldn't hurt to try a Mazda filter. Pure synthetic would get those lifters oiled up much faster in cold weather too. I had the opposite problem, mine would tick at idle if the outside temp was 90+.

    I also ran lifter flush thru the engine for 10 min. before changing the oil each time to get any gunk out.

    A lot of older MPV's have the ticking problem also. I've heard that keeping the oil changed every 3000 helps the ticking too, at least on the MPV's.

    I only run synthetics because of the superior flow in cold weather. It cuts down on engine wear at startup.
  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    The Mazda oil filter has a valve inside which holds oil pressure better, thus the lifters are lubricated faster when the engine is started.

    Still running with original clutch on my 93 ES with 138k miles. Check engine light has been on intermittently due to oxygen sensor for the past 3 years, but still getting about 23 mpg mixed and close to 26 highway.
  • Both O/D Off and Malfunction Indicator lights? Now that's fun; you've got both transmission and emissions issues.

    Have the codes pulled, and you'll know from whom to request assistance: either MasterCard or St Jude.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    jskho- Good to hear that you have138K on the original clutch. We are around 95K and going strong.

    I had to have the spark plug wires replaced today as one had a cracked boot. Symptons were slight hesitation on acceleration. But the wires had been replaced at 65,000 miles by a Mazda dealer, they should not have had to be replaced again so soon. All my service work is being done by a local mechanic now. He told me if the wires had been replaced by him, they would have been covered under a lifetime warranty and replaced for free.
  • Autozone wires work just as well, cost 1/3rd the price and have a lifetime warranty so you can take them back if they wear out. Lifetime brake pads are about 1/2 the cost of Mazda ones also. I never go the cheap way out on oil and filter, but these items IMHO are close enough in quality to the dealer stuff to not matter.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Not true. Read posts 440, 450, and 460 in Transmission Trauma topic.
  • That post was for a GM car and he didn't specify what brand of wires he used. I put a $24 autozone set on the 626 rather than a $80 set from the dealer and they gave me 30k miles before I took them back and got another set FREE (they were still fine but I decided to replace them because I was doing other maintenance). I have bought plug wires that were junk and didn't last but in this particular case I felt they were very close in quality. I just wanted to post my experience for anyone else out there who doesn't want to blow all of their money on plug wires.

    I also looked at a set from Advance Auto Parts and didn't buy them because they looked too flimsy.
  • I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX( 77k miles). It shakes dramatically when it goes beyond 70mph. But it's Ok below 60mph. Is it alignment problem or anything else? The other problem is when I try to accelerate , the gas panel sometimes vibrates a lot and it won't speed up.I have to take my foot off . What should I do with these problems?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,147
    Well, the over 70 wobble could be as simple as a wheel out of balance or as costly as a bad wheel bearing. Really nothing to do with alignment.

    The gas pedal vibrating is a new one on me.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Probably a loose linkage.

    As for the over-70 wobble, if it goes away at even higher speeds, I'd suspect a tire; if it doesn't, I tend to think hardware.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Purchased an '00 LX-V6 new, and so far I'm a very happy first time Mazda/626 owner. However, I do have a couple small issues I'd like to share with the board...

    First of all, I've got the MT with vinyl shifter and park brake boots. Last summer I had the dealer replace both of them (warranty item, no charge) because they were each torn all the way through in 2 or 3 places. Last week I noticed that my shift boot is tearing again, which is a bit annoying. Anyone else had problems with this? Is there something I should be putting on the vinyl to prevent this? The dealer told me it's not necessary to treat the vinyl, the original boots must have been defective. I also live in the NE, so I'm thinking the stiffness of the vinyl when cold might be contributing. Can anyone with an ES MT tell me if they have leather boots? I'm thinking about telling the dealer I want leather if it's available...

    Second, I've been hearing a tapping sound in the rear of the vehicle when first starting out down the road in the cold weather. Found a TSB on cars.com which describes this:

    Technical Service Bulletin #00400R
    Date: 03/00
    Component: SUSPENSION:SINGLE AXLE:REAR
    Summary:
    SOME VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE A TAPPING NOISE WHICH CAN BE HEARD COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE WITHIN THE FIRST 10 MINUTES AFTER A COLD START. *TT

    Before I found the TSB, I had the car in for this, and the dealer gave me the old line, "we can't reproduce the problem". Has anyone else experienced the tapping noise and had it fixed? I'm wondering if I should print out the TSB and carry in to the dealer to show them.
  • Definitely give them the TSB, and have them leave it over night.
  • Dealer service departments are supposed to stay on top of TSBs, but it doesn't always seem to work out that way.

    For the record, the boot around my handbrake lever looks just fine, although I have some weatherstripping issues around the driver's-side door - I swear, they must be buying this stuff from Louie's Discount Rubber Recycling - and an act of blatant stupidity (I am capable of many such, alas) took a teensy slice out of the passenger's armrest.
  • Now that someone has opened the topic . . .
    The weather stripping around my drivers door has
    been loose for a few weeks. I've ignored it,
    hoping that the gremlins in my garage would take
    care of it. Unfortunately they took another
    course of action and now ALL four of the doors
    have drooping rubber seals.

    Any veterans of this particular malady care to
    give me the benefit of their experience??
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    I've not had experience with Mazda weatherstrip problems, but have fixed weatherstripping on a couple GM's I used to drive.

    After a bad experience one time with a mechanic who replaced my driver's side weatherstrip with a passenger side one (which peeled off inside 6 months), I decided to figure out how to do it myself. I ordered a new weatherstrip from a dealer, and purchased a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive from an auto parts retailer. I had the whole job done in 1/2 hour, and that particular car never gave me any more trouble.

    Since then, I've tacked up a couple loose weatherstrips on other cars, and that 3M stuff hasn't failed me yet.

    Don't know if your weather strip is attached using adhesive (I think some just have plastic clips), but if you have some time and patience it shouldn't be too difficult on any vehicle. Keep in mind that purchasing a new weatherstrip may be very expensive; the one for my old car cost $100+ both times!
  • I had basically the same problem with my '93; the stuff simply tears too easily. It does respond well to adhesives, but sooner or later I seem to end up with a section that's firmly glued to the door and a section that's curled up on the ground.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    I've just noticed this noise predominately from
    the right side for about 1 month. I have stainless
    steel mudflaps and thought that might be the malady. Removal of flaps on rear but the noise is
    still there. Monday a.m. I'll be calling the
    dealer in reference to T.S.B. #00400R and find out
    if parts need to be ordered.Thanx slickdog...by
    the way how do you say the year of your 626. I
    myself own a Doubleought 626 LX Freeport with a
    left leg flexor !! Zoom/Zoom
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