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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    It will not improve, mine did that on a regular basis until I traded it at 6000 miles or so, also had this problem on 1999 Passat,so you are in good company.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    She has a 94LX V6 purchased new and has 21,000 miles on the odometer. (no kidding, is that about 250 miles a month?) It's never been in the shop for anything but oil changes. It is clean as a whistle, no dents or dings, the paint looks good and it drives great. In the last month she's had two episodes where the car would not start (after sitting a while), then, later would start. I drove it yesterday. She was sure her son could figure it I punched the spunky little V6 into passing gear on the freeway, it responsed perfectly, but when it shifted back into overdrive the engine went dead. I put it in neutral and tried to restart. It would not. Pulled off the road, put it in park, shut everything off, and then hit the starter. Started right back up and couldn't get it to do it again. Somewhere back in this thread I read "Potential issues (with the 93-94 626) includes ....... possible thermal overload in the ignition module (if it dies at high speed and then starts right up after a few minutes, you've got it)." Looks like a duck, sounds like a duck, but is it a duck? Would this relate to a no-start issue as well? She took it to her local garage when the no-start thing happened, and they could not find anything.
  • matcheckmatcheck Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Mazda 626 4cyl. Lately, it's been stalling at stops, due to low idle. It hesitates a bit, then shudders, then dies. I have 131,000 miles on it, and don't want to sink a bunch of money into it. However, I would like to buy some time to find a new car, if that's what I need...anyone have any idea what could be wrong with the car? Appreciate any thoughts, Thanks!
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Costs about $100.00. How long since last tuneup?

    Engine should last much longer if you have taken care of it.
  • matcheckmatcheck Posts: 2
    At least I PAID for one....I repalced the fuel filter thinking that me be part of the problem, and it looked pretty old. Also replaced plugs and plug wires....the plugs looked fine, not corroded or otherwise. I'll have the fuel injectors cleaned and see if that does the trick, Thanks!
  • The weird thing about that ignition-module issue is that it sets no codes. I haven't heard any reports of this being related to a cold-start issue, but it fits the profile otherwise, and as the old country song says, "If the phone don't ring, it's me."
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    dealer replace the distributor.....I didn't even know cars still had a distributor.....we shall see but he assured me it would cause both the stalling when driving 55+ and the no start problem. All things considered and even though the car has only 21k miles, it has been virtually perfect since Jan of '94. Only in the last year have I noticed it showing it's age. My thought, mom has gotten her use outta this car and it's time for a new one. Any thoughts on the new ones? She loves her eight-years-of-trouble-free-driving Mazda and would do another.
  • Well, among other things, they got rid of the distributor, they've stretched the wheelbase a smidgen, they abandoned the hydraulic valve-lash adjusters, 15-inch wheels are now the norm (and 16-inchers the option), and the cupholders are no longer a joke. There were also a couple of nonimprovements: the below-the-steering-wheel vent has been deleted, and there's no longer enough room on the left side of the footwell for a proper dead pedal. Most of these changes were implemented for the 1998 model year.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    There are a lot of improvements when the 2003 models come out. Among them they are getting back to a 2.3 liter engine with a fair amount of new horsepower.

    If you want to increase power and keep the engine running smooth, have a machine clean your fuel injectors.
  • wait777wait777 Posts: 2
    To really resolve this problem you have replace the IAC valve. My local mazda dealer did for $600/. My 95 626 has 96,000 miles and I recently had it in for a complete tune-up,replace tires etc., Total bill was 1200 dollars not including the replacement for the IAC valve.(Talk about hurting!). The dealer had the car overnight and gave me a 99 Camry as a loaner. Man what a difference!!!After driving a 626, the Camry feels like a dream in every respect. Even the maintainence cost is low. Till date I have spent $9000 in maintaininng/fixing this car. My 626 has been through every problem I have read so far in this board.Replaced transmission twice by the way.
    I am only hanging on to this junk since it is paid off. However I think it is time to cut my losses. The only thing these cars have going for them are the looks. Really sharp lookin.Other than that - a real piece of cr***. Never judge a book by it's cover. Toyota here I come!!
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    Sorry to hear about the problems you've had. However, based on many objective measures, the 626 family has a long history of reliability.

    As to the Camry being "like a dream", well, it is 4 years newer than your 626!!! You might have come away with the same impression had the dealer given you a '99 626.

    Anyway, best of luck with whatever you buy...
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    check out the "engine sludge" thread before you buy a Toyota. I had an 01 Sienna that I hated. That thing buzzed, popped, clicked, rattled, and thumped like an old Dodge Caravan. I never got better than 17+mpg in town on premium fuel (per the book). Had it 19 months and never spent a day not looking for the latest rattle. On top of that, I worried about the sludge problem enough to feel the need to have the dealer do all the oil changes every 3k miles just so I'd have proof the job was done and on record. It meant cooling my heals at the Toyota dealership every few months waiting 1-2 hours for their slow oil changes. What a disappointment.
  • Dear All,

    I have a four-cylinder 626 from 95 with ~ 79K miles, auto-tranny. I bought it used with 68K a year ago, and it has had quite a bit of stuff fixed/changed (timming belt, CV joints/boots, breaks all around, radiator hose that cracked). Although I have spent some money on it, it is a reliable car, and my wife really depends on it. Furthermore, if I can get as many miles from this one as I did from my previous Mazda (a GLC that I sold with 170K on it and still running strong...), I'll be a happy man.

    A couple of days ago, the CEL light came on for a minute, and then it went out (the light...). My wife drove it for a couple of days, and she tells me that the light hasn't light up for her. However, I got on the car again today, and I figured out when the CEL lights up. If I punch the gas (get it to ~ 3000 - 3500 RPMs, which is something my wife does not do...), the CEL comes on, and then it goes off. I have read some of the messages in the board, and saw that a lot of people had this happening, and that most of the times it's the O2 sensors or the air sensor/meter. Why when you punch the gas??? Anyway, it's fairly DIY, so it this is it, I'll do it this weekend.

    Also, how often does the cooling fan goes on? I cannot remember how often it did last summer, but I think that the thing now goes on a lot more frequently than before (i.e., one out of two times you are in a traffic light, while parking, etc.). Is this normal and I just forgot, or is something getting clogged and the fan has to work overtime due to this. By the way, the engine temperature is fine (rock-solid slightly below 1/2 of the gauge).

    Many thanks in advance,

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The fans come on when the radiator gets hot enough to trigger the thermostatic switch OR you have the A/C on. Having the A/C on would include Defrost of course. Keep that in mind when doing your comparison to last year.

    CEL: Dunno about that one other than the fact that a car runs rich when you floor the accelerator and the exhaust temp goes down. It may just be the sudden change in exhaust temp that's getting to your O2 sensor.
  • In the case the Maltster describes, the sensor is likely running out of its prescribed range for a brief period; eventually, electrical devices in this environment being what they are, it will be out of range most of the time and the light will stay on more often. I wouldn't worry about it until it does.
  • Thanks for the explanation on the CEL/fans. Now, I think I DO have to do a tune-up on the thing, as I have a relatively rough idle, some knocking on acceleration, etc., etc. Someone said that this may have caused poissoning of the O2 sensors (unburnt fuel getting to them). Does this sound right? I am meaning to get the codes from the ECU out, but my mechanic can't do it until next week...

  • This is theoretically possible. Of course, you have to fix what's producing the, um, toxins before you replace the sensors, or you'll be replacing a lot of sensors. Pulling the codes will help.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    My son had a problem, and all they did was clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the CEL went away. It's been a year now. This had to be done after changing the O2 sensors. A Mazda or Contour specialist knows the procedure.

    Unfortunately Oxygen sensors are a regular maintenence Item. has great prices for these.
  • Well, after reading your suggestions and doing some additional 'research', I decided on the the following plan:

    1) Try to get the ECU codes.
    2) Tune-up the thing. Change wires, plugs, etc. This may fix the somewhat rough (low RPM) idle.
    3) See if that takes care of the CEL, and if it does not, change sensors according to results from (1).

    Also, forgot to mention. My car has a known 626 problem, which is oil in the spark-plug wells (the left one looking at the car). This is probably due to the fact that when the timming belt was replaced the mechanic had to re-install it (the timming was off the first time around), and he probably worked 'fast' on it. I heard that tightening the valve cover bolts sometimes helps. I did noticed that the connectors of the plug wires are a little cracked, which is an obvious results of being soaked in hot oil...

    Does this sound reasonable? Any other suggestions on the matter will be greately appreciated.

  • The car has 88700 miles on it. Ran fine after I bought it at 88K miles. Then suddenly the CEL light came on and the engine started to idle erratically. I live at 7000 ft above sea level and the car spent the initial 88K miles down at sea level, could this be causing this problem? The CEL light now stays on and sometimes blinks. Any help will be appreciated.
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