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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • 626town626town Posts: 7
    I have a 94 626 with a 4 cyl. and 125,000 on it. Recently I`m having trouble with 1 st gear. It`s almost like if the car is in neutral when I accelerate then the gear engages with a heavy jerk. After that, the rest of the gears seem to shift correctly.The 1 st gear will only engage at a higher rpm`s. What could be causing this . Need Help .
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    In regards to the tranny how many miles on it. I had a 94 rebuilt with 45k on it and mechanic was honest enough to tell me nothing was really worn. As to tranny leak I just blew out the 2 transaxle seals at 53K ( after a downshift on mountainous road after 2 hours high speed driving 70-80-mph) and tranny fluid leaked onto exhaust pipe and smoked like crazy. How much fluid did you lose. Mazda trannys (CDE really Ford )are notorious for giving false disaster symptoms related to other sensors. After rebuild the tranny acted the same then mechanic told me to change $50 sensor and now its fine for last 4 years aside from seals going .
    Dont act too fast IMHO
    PGP
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Well Mr Shiftright . My Wife just drove the car 145 miles and used 4.96 gallons (18.80 liters )so mileage was 29.32 on the hwy . She told me car seemed weak on the long uphill climbs. Its pretty high there in mountains of Greece and thin air might contribute or maybe she shoulda put in in 2nd because tranny is, and she is also, reluctant to downshift.
    Any thoughts on power loss? MAF or O2 ? Aside from CEL off and on, and weakness, all else was fine
    Thx PGP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,803
    Without codes it's like working in the dark.

    MODERATOR

  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Mr Shiftright . I got a 159 (MAF) and a 181 (heated O2 sensor) as I mentioned in POST # 1668 before I left Greece. I was not sure I did it right but I have found out from other sites that in fact I did. If its a O2 sensor Mazda says they have 3 of them . I have heard they have one ? If there are 3 how do I figure out which one is bad.
    Can a bad MAF also create a bad OS reading. What if I do nothing? Car drives fine aside from long uphill climbs and Mileage was normal. Aside from CEL I wouldnt know anything was wrong
    Thx PGP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,803
    Well the problem is that the code doesn't mean these items are bad, it only means that these items are unhappy for some reason, which could be caused by something else (nice, huh?) . Maybe will jump in to help you here, he's a working tech, I'm not.

    MODERATOR

  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Who will jump in to help me ?? Well whomever he is I would love his help, before I go out spending a lot of money on guesswork . I have cleaned tha MAF with a computer sray can and looked at most of the wires. I am mechanical, but by no means a mechanic! Help :)
    PGP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,803
    e-mail me and I'll send you his e-mail. I can't post it here because he'll get spam. Or, go to the Technical Questions Forum and look for his posts and click on his name and you'll get his e-mail. Maybe he can help you, I don't know.

    good luck with it,

    Shifty the Host

    MODERATOR

  • austin626austin626 Posts: 2
    Hello Mr. Shiftright, I have a delima with my 2000 626 4 cylinder standard 5-speed. It started to idle badly, and at acceleration especially in gears1&2 it misses bad and doesn't want to go if you give it gas, you have to let off a bit and ease back into it. the code was a #1 cylinder misfire. I changed the spark plugs, wires, coil pack, and used some feul injector cleaner and that fixed it for 2 weeks. Now it's back at it only worse. The check engine light came on again, but it only showed the same code again. Now even at highway speeds it misses and lopes. PLEASE HELP!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,803
    Well I think you'll have to check to see if the injectors are getting pulses (noid light) and then swap out the fuel filters if the injectors seem okay. Might help. A cylinder can misfire for a lot of reasons.

    MODERATOR

  • austin626austin626 Posts: 2
    So you think that the problem may be more fuel injector related? Also I have replaced 1 fuel filter, is there more than one on this car? Also sorry if this is a dumb question , but what is a noid light? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,803
    It's a device you plug into the injector's electrical connector to see if your fuel injectors are getting a pulse from the computer. No pulse, no squirt, no boom-boom.

    Most local auto parts stores sell noid lights.

    If you are getting a pulse to that cylinder, you might have to check your fuel rail fuel pressure and see if that's proper. If that's proper, then I guess I'd pull the injector and replace it for that cylinder.

    This ALL presumes that you are, in fact, getting a proper and consistent spark to that cylinder that isn't firing.

    I dunno, without being there I don't want to tell you to go out and spend money. Just throwing out ideas for you based on what you are telling me.

    MODERATOR

  • I took my car in to see why the engine light was constantly going off/on...So I received an estimate that included a Fuel & Emission problem, and a few other things that I already knew I needed (new tires/alignment).

    He gave me prices for the catalyst converter which was $672 the o2 sensors (2) were $416.00. Are these prices this high b/c its a Mazda, b/c when I went to a couple of sites this morning, they advertised Mazda Converters for $149 and o2 sensors starting at $19.00. The mechanic told me that Mazda manufacturers their own products and if any others would be used, it would cause other problems. Is this true? Will someone give me some insight, please?

    And not to mention...for the Tune-up... The wires were quote at $83 and the plugs were $32. and not to mention almost $90 :confuse: for labor alone!!!
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    First of all do a Google for OEM mazda parts . If you are going to pay 83 you should at least get NGK wires that are excellent quality .O2 sensors can be found at site also There is one that is named something like that. I have checked sensiors and can see them a lot cheaper than that .
    In closing I had to change the evaporator on my Mercedes in NYC and Benz wanted $980 plus tax for the parts with an alleged 20% discount that I got because my friend owns a body shop .List price was $1200. I bought the same parts Bosch all around online for $600. Bosch plugs cost 2+ unless they are the platinum
    Also you can call some of these online sites if you are buying a lot of stuff and get a better than advertised price . Sales people on the phone work on commision and can shop suppliers while you wait.Os sensors at $19 I would avoid $50 and up I do not know what model etc .
    Do your due diligence online
    PGP
  • velcrovelcro Posts: 1
    I noticed your message about starting problems with your 626. I have a 1991 and trying to solve the same problem. I purchased the car with the problem, as the previous owner could not solve it. Cold starts were uncertain; warm was always fine. I recently notice a leaking fuel injector.? Fuel injectors? Any info you might provide would be appreciated. Thanks so much, Nick
  • pteezypteezy Posts: 3
    I'm not sure how much fluid i lost, but it only leaks when it gets hot.. maybe after a good 30 miles.... and you think a $50 sensor would cause it to slip in 2nd and 4th gear?
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Mine used to slip in 2nd, 4th , change into 2nd gear from a standing start, search and change gears while I waited stopped at a light. The tranny gets signals from sensors that make it crazy thats all I am saying. I think more Mazda trannys are rebuilt than is necessary and my mechanic in Greece says the same tranny in the Mondeo has no preoblems This tranny was used in different cars with different results You have the CD4E right.
    Where did you lose the oil from If you lost it from the selas they aree $30 job plus parts Cost me $30 for OEM transaxle seals and $71 Eoros to have them and reman axles put in so check it out before you decide is all I am saying
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Also when I lost the fluid from the seals it fell on exhaust pipes and smoked like crazy . Check one thing out at a time In my humble opinion
  • lindros810lindros810 Posts: 1
    '97 626 4 cylinder with 104,000 miles. Last couple of months been white smoke coming from exhaust on start up after sitting over night or after being at work all day. Been eating oil like crazy. Went to get it checked and compression problem was found in 4th cylinder(basically blown). PSI's were 210,205,210,135. I was told that with the milage it wasnt worth trying to fix the cylinder itself cause your at risk of blowing the other ones. Better off droping a new engine in it or buying another car. Anybody have any suggestions or have had this same problem?? Need Help! Thanks. :sick:
  • caulfieldcaulfield Posts: 1
    I have a 98 626 and the AT needed a front seal replaced. After spending $500 getting it replaced, the transmission burnt up after 180 miles on the interstate, costing another $2500. Evidently, this is a common problem among many 626s about the trannies burning up after having seals replaced. Is there any way, or has there been, a collective effort at pressuring Mazda to fix these obvious flaws with the transimssion design, and refund those that have wasted money?
  • epwepw Posts: 1
    Wondering if anyone has any ideas that may help .. i have a '97 626 with 254,000 mi ... it seems to be running very lean to the point the plugs get white and start misfiring after about 2000 miles .. also has fast idle at times .. as well as fluctuates between fast/slow repeatedly ... thanks in advance for your help
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Do a Google for a class action suit or Recall There was a class action suit for the 94 that had an attorney in Alabama handling it . I had the number but threw it away as my car is in Greece.
    Good Luck Peter :)
  • mtnmedicmtnmedic Posts: 1
    Is there any way to reset the anti-theft radio in my mazda 626? The LCD went out a while back. The battery went dead the other day, and evidently I put the code in wrong since I couldn't see it. I can't get it to work. Any advice? Does anyone out there have a used am/fm/cassette/cd for a '93 626 that has a valid code?

    Thanks
    Shane
  • Looking for a diagram and any help with my car. Its old and I don't want to invest alot of money in it but I need a exhust from the cat back. I need to know pipe size and if i can fit parts in. auto shops want between 250 and 400 for replacement of parts car worth about 300 Help please
  • the radio can be reset using factory master code. Dealer will charge at least 1/2 hour labor to perform repair.
  • drewlzdrewlz Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am curious if anyone has any ideas on what might be wrong with my 1991 Mazda 626 LX (2.2L non turbo) - it has 210,000 KM on it so far.

    My car surges when idle, the RPM will bounce from 100 to 900. It may go through this cycle up to 10 times, then even out to 750RPM (where it should be).
    My 626 will also hesitate from a stop, or stall all together, though this seldom happens. When the car is in neutral it idles nice and smooth. Driving in any gear once past the initial acceleration attempt, the car runs great.

    There is no engine warning light or other obvious problems. There are no vacuum leaks (I had this checked already).

    The problem began to show itself about a month ago and is now constant. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs and the spark plug wires are new as well. Makes no difference. This problems happens once the car has warmed up to normal operating temperature. (10 minutes or less)

    For the problem to show itself the car must be in gear and the car must be stopped. It happens mainly when you come to a stop.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • sierra99sierra99 Posts: 1
    I have a '95 626 starts great, idles great but as soon as i put in gear and try to accelerate it starts sputtering badly, I have to be very gentle on the accelator to gain speed. Even in N or P when I apply gas it sputters and coughs and I can only reach a maximum RPM of about 3500 - 4000 and is very slow in getting there. Any help would be great!
  • mikec11mikec11 Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 1990 626 DX with an R-12 factory air system that has suddenly quit working, If I jump the A/C clutch directly to the battey it works fine and blows cold and it still has plenty of charge left in the system. Has anyone else had the same problem and what was the fix? The car has 130K trouble free miles on it and before I wade in to the electrics I wanted to see if it was a common problem.
  • brokenfleabrokenflea Posts: 1
    i have about 130,000 miles on a 1993 mazda 626. i get white smoke from the exhaust on pressing on gas. the car does great on power though.i was wondering what could be the exact reason why its blowing white smoke from the exhaust. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    TIA
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,803
    pure white smoke like steam? That's a head gasket.

    MODERATOR

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