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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • I dont know what i'm doing wrong, but....

    i took the wheels off, removed the stupid little cover on the only caliper bolt that i could find (are there supposed to be 2 like normal calipers?) and tried to take it off, but it seems like just a tiny little bit of the bolt is left in, just enough to not let the caliper up and give me access to the pads. should i just whack it a couple of times with a screw driver and hammer or does anyone have any other suggestions?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Each brake caliper has two mount bolts. Yhey do not have any covers on them. The only bolt on the rear caliper that has a cover on it is the Allen head bolt, which you need to turn to retract the piston in before you can put new pads on. Unless you are talking about the caliper sliding pins that have a boot on them. You do not touch those unless you neede to lube them.
  • amzeusamzeus Posts: 8
    Hello All,

    I'm new to the site, found it searching for 626 problems... I currently have a 98 V6 626 5-speed with 335,000km (208,000 miles). Car still runs great exept for worn suspension and a troublesome gearbox - almost impossible to shift gears after driving on the highway or running the airconditioning. Regardelss, I found a 2002 ES 5-speed with 50,000miles on it and will most likely buy it. One trouble I did have on my 98 was a bad 3rd gear synchro (failed out of warranty - doh!), and I did notice on the 2002 that this same problem was starting to appear (which is still covered under warranty, so I'll get it replaced). Anyone else have bad synchro's in the 626? Is the stock tranny fluid not ideal?

    Anyways, I hope the new one lasts just as long as the first. I may keep the 98 for parts, unless there are people who want a car with 335,000km -anyone interested, whole car? parts?

    Mike
  • laura5laura5 Posts: 1
    My 97 Mazda 626 was bought second hand in 2003. It was running pretty good then. After a while, when I do the regular checking, the mechanic told me to change from axles, which I did. Ever since then, the car is running not as smooth as before.

    I have a remote car key, but I like to lock my car door using the button on the window when I step out of the car, now the key is not working anymore.

    Starting from last month, the airbag signal starts to flash on and off. The transimission is running bad, humps with acceleartioin. Engine is loud and whenever I step on the gas, I feel like the car is suffering.

    Anyone any ideas what is going on?
    I read so many bad reviews about this car, not I wonder whether I should just drop it and get another car...
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    The first step is to get the OBD ll codes from your car. I have heard many parts stores will retrieve them for you . The air bag is controlled by the SRS system and you have to be carefull not to activate it Thats square one IMHO.
    Then come back and tell us what they are .
    Good Luck
    PGP
  • tiementiemen Posts: 1
    Mine did this once at 65K miles, the mechanic said the plug have moved somehow and used some type of compound or grease to prevent a repeat. So far so good.
    (dear lord, you have a quater of a million miles on that car?? :surprise: how many transmissions did it take to get you there?)
  • mazda_manmazda_man Posts: 3
    i have a 626 DX 4cylinder,my car started sputtering a week ago,i have to easily press the pedal for it to go,if i press it just a little hard it starts to sputter,i thought i was my spark plugs so i replaced them,NOT IT,so i replaced the spark plug wires,NOT IT,i thought maybe it was my rotor button,i replaced it,NOT IT,thought it was the fuel filter,replaced it,NOT IT,thought it was my cadilac converter,i just got it today,i'm putting it on tonight,if that isn't it then i'm getting a diagnastic test done on it and it will tell me exact what the problem is,someone told me it might be my fuel injectors,i hope not because they are really alot of money,if anyone has the same problem and knows exactly what it is please let me know i would really appericaite it,thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check the air intake ducting between the airflow sensor and the throttle body for any cracks or other damage that would let unmetered air into the engine. You'll have to remove the ducting and take a hard look at it.Why are you replacing the catalytic converter? Have you done an exhaust restriction test to verify that the converter is plugged? Throwing parts at a problem can get expensive in a hurry.
  • i was wondering if your latest fix has worked...i also have a mazda 626, 1999 lx 4 cylinder....i started having problems late last year, very similar to yours.....when i'm sitting at a light, the pressure drops hard and fast..when i give it gas, it sputters and doesn't want to go, which is even more noticeable when the air/heat/fan is on, i actually have to turn it off in order to go!! in december, i took it in for a diagnostic, but nothing really came up as i'd just replaced my battery weeks before, except one bad spark plug and the wire..my mechanic suggested i use a higher end wire, but i chose another as they were around $30 cheaper....the car was back to normal after that until about two weeks ago, when the check engine light started coming on again when i give it gas and it's shuttering again, so back to everything that happened last year.....everyone i've spoken to thinks it is the oxygen censors, though one person thinks it could be the fuel injectors.....the O2 censors are around $170 just for the parts, so i don't want to waste the money if this isn't it......sooo, just wondering if your latest worked as we seem to be in the same boat........if not, possibly the O2 censors or fuel injectors, from what has been suggested to me............btw, i've even taken my car in to auto zone type places when the check engine light is blinking and nothing shows up, to which i'm told that the computer isn't holding any info.......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    I'm going to buy stock in companies that make 02 sensors.

    No one is properly diagnosing this car. No codes, REALLY? That's very strang. Oh well, -- Why don't you dose it with a VERY strong injector cleaner, like from Swepco or BGK44, and then after running that for a while have someone read your air/fuel mixture---would be great if you could get on a dyno but I know that's expensive.

    Being an intermittent problem, it could be injectors. I don't understand why we have no codes. Remember, a code-reading machine is only as good as the operator using it.

    MODERATOR

  • yep, no codes!! of course, this was done at an auto zone..i've made an appointment for saturday to get a diagnostic done on it, hopefully something will show up since i have not changed the battery this time! my neighbor suggested an injector cleaner, which i did when the problem first started, as well as when this originally began back in december, and no luck....it is getting worse each day..the check engine light came on twice coming to work this morning....if i slow down or stop completely, it has trouble getting gas when i start to go again.....and again, it is worse when the air is on, and i'm in georgia, hard to go without air this time of year!!! i'm hoping that nothing shows at auto zone because their machines are basic, but my gut tells me i may end up with a new car soon! thanks for your help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    Well sometimes something has to fail to pin it down.

    MODERATOR

  • My girlfriend bought a 2002 626 in 2003, it's got an automatic transmission, lately (as in the starting of summer) when the A\C is on, primarily anytime the car is stopped, i.e. stop light, stop sign etc. it almost feels like the car is killing out, but in very, very, small bursts! I turn the A\C off and it stops instantly, and when I start to accelerate, the instant I engage the gas pedal, there's almost the same sputtering feeling before it starts to accelerate, Id like to catch this problem now, I hate working on these japanese cars, and in past experience what would be a common sense fixing problem, turns into stuff you couldn't have even perceived in the end, any ideas? also anytime it rains or snows(i live in utah) the passenger side floor turns into a damn!!! sometimes so bad we have to wetvac it! it's very irritating, and also the hazards and\or left-right turn signal will activate itself and will not turn off unless I pull out the fuse, the other night the cops banged on my door at 3:45a.m. seeing my car in the drive way shut off, signaling right!!! this also happens only when it has been raining or snowing!! any ideas on this. It's just pathetic, it's been a decent car, but decent really dosent cut it in my book anymore! Thanks
  • mazda_manmazda_man Posts: 3
    well i changed the cadilac converter the other night and that wasn't it either,i'm glad i changed it anyways some idiot who had the car before me clean it out so it made the car sound loud,anyways i did notice that my fresh air intake hose was really broke ,and to much air to the motor can cause it to not run all that great,so i ordered one of those it's not but 15.00 dollars,i tryed all the really great fuel injector cleaner,bc i thought that would mabye clean them out ,it's not running any better,i just hope and pray it the air intake hose and not the fuel injectors
  • i see that you and i are having pretty much the exact same problem, except for the latter part of your messgae! i have an appt tomorrow to get mine changed checked out, via $65 diagnostic test! i'll let the board know what i find out, hoping it's not expensive! from what i've read, the 626 stopped being a japanese made car around 1994; they're made by ford now, which is an acronym for 'fix or repair daily!' i'll keep you posted on what the problem is!
  • hercyniumhercynium Posts: 2
    I never noticed the problem since I bought the vehicle a year ago, but I just got an oil change and the mechanic told me the engine was making a sucking sound that might indicate a cracked intake manifold. (This place doesn't fix that sort of thing, though) I opened the hood and heard it for myself, and it certainly isn't a healthy sound to me.

    From what I've read on this board, this seems to make sense, since this car sometimes stalls when idling, but only when the engine's hot.

    When it comes to cars I know very little. What I need to know: Is this a serious problem; should I get it fixed immediately? Also, what should I be expecting to pay for this repair? (Feel free to throw out estimates based on total guesses of what the problem might be.)

    So far this car has performed wonderfully, save for a radiator leak over the winter and a strange clicking sound coming from the front wheels when I make a really tight turn (my last car, a mazda 323 did that as well, and it always worried me, but never seemed to be a problem).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    It's rather odd for an INTAKE manifold to crack....exhaust manifolds are much more likely to do so.

    If you have a vacuum leak, sure, that's serious---you could burn your valves by screwing up your fuel mixture and driving your little engine computer crazy. But most vacuum leaks aren't that hard to fix unless the intake manifold is WARPED...and even then you can often take them off and have them machined flat again.

    MODERATOR

  • i got my car looked at today and wanted to let you know what i found out....he ran the diagnostic, i'm not positive how to explain this, but basically, he said that the problem had not been occurring to long, so the problem had not been set officially in the system that the test reads.....the important part is this: one of the spark plugs had a crack in it and the spark plug wires were put on a little backwards...he said both of these things would cause the problems i'm having....he was not thrilled with the brand of wires that was put on it, he prefers a brand that of course, i can't remember! he did say that the oxygen censor shouldn't cause the problems that i'm having....basically, it's fine now, told me to watch it...only $100, it could have been worse! good luck! maybe you should change your plugs!
  • I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAve to replace the vehicle speed sensor
  • amzeusamzeus Posts: 8
    I also have a 98 626 5-speed V6, with almost 209,000miles mind you, and it just started to make this sucking sound as well. There are many things that could cause a sucking sound, but my problem, like Mr_Shiftright mentioned, is the exhaust manifold. You can visually check this (don't know if you have the 4cyl or if it's different) - under the front of the car in the very center just behind the rad you will see the exhaust manifold (attaches to the front of the engine). The mid line of the pipe tends to rust, and eventually small holes or cracks will form. Don't know how much to fix, I'm trying to get rid of this car as I bought a 2002 626 ES. I would also check the air intake, not the manifold, but where the air filter is and the hose leading from the filter to the throttle body for cracks. The filter housing is sometimes hard to install over the rubber filter frame, and it is possible the housing is leaking.
  • hercyniumhercynium Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice, both of you. Of course, I'm not taking the advice of the jiffy-lube guy as a certain diagnosis, but I'm glad he pointed out the problem. I just might try looking for holes in the exhaust manifold pipe. Also... can you describe where the filter housing is, and how I would check?

    I'm just trying to get an idea of what the problem is so I don't get fleeced. I'm just nervous since I moved too far away to take my car to my old mechanic... he's slow, but he's honest, frugal, and always does the job right. :-)
  • mazda_manmazda_man Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice but i already changed the plugs and the wires and the fuel filter and the cadalac convertor,and the air intake hose bc it was crack and it is still doing it just as bad,sometimes it acts like it doesn't even want to goi went to get it put on a test but my uncles was haveing some problem so i should get it done by tomorrow,i just hope it is nothing to serious
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    I hope someone can help me here, you all seem to really know a lot about Mazda's.
    The problem is the A/C, it worked ok last year, but this summer it's blowing hot air. I put some more r-134 in it and it worked somewhat for a day, then back to hot air the next. The mechanic who checked it said he was 85% sure it was the Expansion valve on the Evaporator core. The entire core with new valve is only $250, but labor is $800! I want to replace the valve or core myself, but I'm not sure how to do it. I got the Hayne's manual and it doesn't look too difficult. Any suggestions?
    Also, could it be a problem other than the expansion valve or evap. core?
    Please help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    Why do you have to replace the entire evaporator? Putting in a new expansion valve isn't usually too hard (just a couple of wrenches, really) but you don't have the equipment to evacuate and clean the system. You'll probably want to put a new drier in there too since you're opening everything up.

    MODERATOR

  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    The mechanic was just recommending replacing the evaporator since I was already paying him to get at the expansion valve. But, since the valve is only $30 or so, and the dryer is about $60, I think I'll try those first instead.
    Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have a mechanic evacuate and clean the system before I do the work?

    btw...thanks for the input...I really appreciate it.
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    I just looked at the high-pressure a/c side valve and it looks like I can use the same hose that I use to add R-134a but with an adapter fitting that I have. Will this work?
    Also, is it sufficient just to empty the high-pressure side until there appears to be nothing more coming out? Seems to me that this would indicate that it's empty.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,520
    Ah, without seeing stuff first hand I don't want to advise you; besides, venting refrigerant to the outside air isn't cool, so that's why I was advocating that you have it evacuated and captured professionally. Also you have to protect yourself when you work on this stuff.

    I'd guess a shop might charge you an hour's time to do that.

    MODERATOR

  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    I just recently started having that same problem of being at a Red light and the AC causing the engine to almost stall. During Acceleration, the car would kinda hesitate (Almost like it was misfiring) and pressing the pedal to the floor would cause it to stutter. Thing just wouldn't pick up and go like it always has.

    Don't know if you have had yours fixed or not, but here is what I had replaced on mine that completely fixed the problems:

    Spark Plugs - They had fallen apart inside the engine
    Spark Plug Wires - Whatever brand was on there. NGK or Denzo or something
    Rotor Button
    Distributor cap
    PCV valve
    Fuel Filter - Took an hour to take the engine apart to get to the stupid thing
    Air Filter
    Adjusted response time and Idle screw

    Runs great now with all power restored. I also had my fuel injection system flushed which really made a big difference in performance. Hope this helps
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    And, one hopes, a rebuild recent enough to have incorporated the handful of design changes that have been made to this box.

    I flush out my CD4E every 15k-20k miles.
  • seyitsseyits Posts: 1
    hi,
    i have a 1991 lx 626 stick shift.it has 117000 miles on it.i recently replaced clutch.it accelerates fine,but on fifth gear it hits 3000 rpm and it is only going at 70 mhp.
    any ideas
    thanks
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