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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • mike74mike74 Posts: 1
    Hello

    A local mechanic recently put brakes on my 2001 626, v6 2.5, 35,000 miles. After a while they started to squeak a lot, so I took them apart to put some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads. When I removed the pads, I found that the dust seals on the calipers were torn. It looks like the shim on the back of the pad sliced through the piston dust cover. Rather than take it back (wasn't crazy about the mechanic to begin with), I picked up a caliper rebuild kit from Mazda.

    The calipers work fine, but I wanted to replace the dust boots on them. Can I do this without having to remove the piston? I was hoping to just pull the old one off and put the new one in place.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • mx6alexmx6alex Posts: 1
    Hi there

    I seem to have a problem with my 2.0 standard tans. 94 MX6. The idle speed is pretty low around 600 or 500 rpm sometimes. if it happens to be at 700 rpm (usually after driving for a bit) it would drop down to about 550 when i apply the brakes or the clutch, with a double effect if i press both at the same time.

    thanks for your input!
  • Any idea what would casue a sudden increase in noise during higher speeds? I've got 106000 miles on my 2001 626 and the increased noise just recently started. It is not noticeable when idling or even at low speeds (below 30 or so), and gets louder as the car goes faster. It basically sounds the same as it did before, just a lot louder.
  • jaybird3jaybird3 Posts: 1
    I have an 88' 626 non-turbo with manual tranny. The car runs great except for the idle speed which when stopped will hover around 1000 to 1200 rpm. If I load the engine by partially releasing the clutch while keeping the brake on, the idle speed will drop to 700 rpm and stay there until the next stop. spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor are all new. It's curious that a temporary engine load will allow the idle to drop and then stay there. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I recently noticed that when I press the gas on my 2000 626 it stalls for a few seconds. It has 86,000 miles on it. Other than that I have had no problems. The small town mechanic (that I know personally) told me that I would have to have a new transmission. As I am typing this it is getting a second opinion. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this????
  • samjrsamjr Posts: 1
    we have a 1992 626 that has a new engine in it but it seems to have deveoloped a nasty litle problem. Runs great until it get good and hot then it stumbles badly and stalls. It will not re-start but will after it has cooled for a 30 mins. or so...run great agian till it gets hot. The water temp is not going out of normal range. any ideas of what it could be. Sounds like some sensor is holding us out. TIA :P
  • jaimjaim Posts: 4
    My 2000 626LX V-6 5M has grown exceedingly noisy at only 40,000+ miles. The noise sounds like excessive valve clearance, but I have been told that the lifters are hydraulic and the valve clearance is not adjustable. In message #1603 p100 mentions that 98 and later V-6's use mechanical lifters which require periodoc adjustment.Can anyone confirm whether the 2000 V-6 uses adjustable mechanical lifters?
  • Friend's 2000 626 w/ 80K.
    He had a condenser from a junk yard put in and now the compressor has smoke coming out so the mechanic told him to bring to dealer. He can't afford that.
    Anybody have technical info to link to regarding the AC for this car? Any help will be appreciated. I think it's a 4 cylinder engine.
    Thanks,
    Gary :D
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    I have a 1996 626lx V-6, 5 speed and I really like it. Got a bad expansion valve on the a/c evaporator core and I have to take apart the passenger's side dash and glove-box to get to it. I would love to know if there are any tricks or tips on getting the dash out easier. The mechanic was gonna charge $700-$800 in labor basically for the dash removal/installation so it sounds like it might take a while...any good suggestions would be appreciated.
  • Hey Thanks I appreciate that alot! Ill get started this morning, i'll let you know when I finish up. Sounds like that about covers everything, stay tuned!!!
  • hektedhekted Posts: 1
    My girl has a 1990 626, she was complaining about her a/c blowing out hot air.....
    So she took it to get a retro fitting cause its a R12, so she got the fitting went to an auto parts store to put freon it after she did now there no air blowing at all.......
    Can someone help fix this problem please........
  • Hi, I have a Mazda 626 1.8LXi (1996). The fan does nothing on settings 1,2 or 3 but works fine on 4. I have checked the switch and looks ok. The strange thing is that it worked the night before. In the morning, nothing. :confuse:

    Can anyone help? Does it mean a replacement fan? If so, how easy a task is it to do?

    Many thanks
  • I checked back for any advice and all I see are more questions for help on AC. It's almost comical. :P
  • herfnerdherfnerd Posts: 4
    99 626 ES with 2.0 liter 4 cyl. - 3 spd automatic.

    Just started having problems yesterday. Put the car in D from a standing stop when I hit the gas, the engine revs but goes nowhere, likes its in neutral. It does take off, albeit a bit sluggish if I turn the OD off. At higher speeds/RPM's, it seems fine. If worse comes to worse, I will shift right into 2 and it will take off.

    What say ye - bad torque converter? Tranny fluid is a little dirty, but full......
  • alanctyalancty Posts: 1
    I have the 95 Mazda 626 and I have exactly the same problem. Besides, the problem worsens after I pump in gas. I have been using superior gas (Oct#: 91) Everytime after I pump in the case, the car stalls 5 seconds after I start the engine. It stalls in P, R and D. The problem worsen when engine is hot, also acceleration is not smooth (like misfire). However, when engine is cold and when I am not pumping gas, idle speed is 700rpm and the car runs fine. I have replace the Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, PCV Valves recently. The idle screw is adjusted to the maximum already. Should I replace the other items as well? Anyone can help? This car had been nothing, but problematic since I bought it.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It's usually the blower resistor. IIRC, it's on the bottom of the blower housing.
  • forgive my ignorance but where is that?
    do you have a diagram? or even a rough drawing.

    its definitely not the fan then. cheers.
  • I think I have a similar problem. My 99 626ES V6 5 speed manual hesitates when I shift gears. The higher the RPM when shifting the worse it gets. Can produce similar effect by letting off gas without shifting and punching it again. I suspect a control problem but don't know if it's the throttle body, airflow sensor, CPU, or something else. Had this looked at when under warranty and the dealer said they couldn't fix it as this was normal. I bitched but they wouldn't hook it up to diagnostics. I would pay for diagnostics but am not sure it would show up on the scope. I like the car a lot except for this issue. I have 120K on it now and the only failure was the steering rack under warranty. I am now due for clutch, brakes, struts, axles, and a few other minor parts then hope to get another 120K out of it. I can do this work my self inexpensively. I thrash this car daily. Anyone have any Ideas on the hesitation problem.
  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    Hey have you got your problem fixed?

    I don't think I will be worrying about mine for too much longer. I rear ended an 02 Mazda Protege yesterday and it completely decimated my front end. The protege only made it out with minor scuff marks. Don't think I'll be getting my baby fixed after this. I love you 626...RIP
  • rward2rward2 Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 that keeps giving a ODBII code of P0443 evap purge control system. I traced part of the vacuum line and tried to find the charcoal canister. I can’t find where either of them end up going from the tank to the front of the car. I also replaced the gas cap (hoping for the simple fix) it was a no go. Any ideas?
  • cudaguycudaguy Posts: 7
    Hey I know with american cars if the Tork Converter Lockup switch is defective and It doesnt "Unlock" when you come to a stop it will stall the Car Just like stopping a 5 spd without pushing in the clutch.
  • cudaguycudaguy Posts: 7
    Clicking when its moving? Thats sounds like the CV Joint is going bad. Does it get Louder or more noticable when turning?Especially at slow speeds?
  • I have a 1998 mazda 626 with a 4 cylynder engine, about 3 month ago it just stopped running. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, and the coil to no avail. it seems to be gettin lots of fuel and spark but it wont start. any sugestions on where else to look.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,549
    If it has fuel and spark it pretty much has to start....fire + fuel = explosion, and that's pretty reliable physics. So if you really have fuel and spark you might have busted a timing belt. You might take off the oil cap and have someone spin the engine and see if the camshaft is turning in there.

    MODERATOR

  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Did you get any codes Does it have a Ford EECIV connectior for the pcm If not getting codes is easy. It should have a ADL connector if it is all Mazda.Look By battery there is connector that opens and has pins inside.Do a search to find out how to retrieve them . This sounds like a sensor but by retrieving the codes you can start on the ROAD to find out which one .
    Good Luck I had the book for it but cant find it
    :)
  • Sound's like the same problem i had on my 626 dx 94 2.0l. It was running for a few minutes then RPM go down to 0 (no more power to the spark plug) and i am not able to restart before a few minutes until it cool down. The problem was the ignition module in the distributor. I had it fixed last year and 2 weeks ago same prob... I was lucky enough the part was still under warranty. It will cost you around 350$ to fix it, also change the leads if you dont know how old they are...
  • hart1hart1 Posts: 1
    Windowphobe6 can you solve my problem.

    1994 Mazda Chronos 626 4 cyl automatic

    When I come to a stop sign the RPM goes from idle to Zero after a few seconds.

    I started my car this morning and it immediately went down to Zero .

    I have to keep reving it to keep it going .
  • phroadrickphroadrick Posts: 14
    Hi all. I used to post here but have had several years of trouble free driving and have gotten away from daily reading. CEL on for awhile now, but no code reader, so I stopped at Advance and had them pull the codes. They are saying EGR valve. Recommended cleaning first to see if this clears things up. I have throttle body cleaner and am ready to give it a go but I can't find the darn thing. Yes, I know what it looks like but I don't have the shop manual or Haynes. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Pictures would be awesome. Also, can I pull the hoses and just shoot cleaner into it or do I need to remove it completly and give it a good cleaning? Thanks
  • janusjanus Posts: 2
    hi gals, and guys, I have continous sound , such as u would forgot to take out key from the car, ?? ofcourse i did, I am closing the car, going away and i am hear the sound.?? WHAT TO DO ??? THANKS FOR REPLY. JANUS. :lemon:
  • oshawaoshawa Posts: 16
    Same problem with '94 626. I have been looking for an answer to this problem as everything seems fine under the hood. I have checked the injectors, replaced the rotor and cap (it was worn a bit). still have the same problem. I am getting a little tired of driving my car like it has a standard transmission....acccelerating then letting off for it to change gears...I am also getting tired of other drivers on my [non-permissible content removed] due to the fact that I cannot accelerate to 60 Km/H within 150 Meters.

    Idles fine
    Press the gas very lightly and it's fine
    Press the gas to accelerate normally and engine bogs and sounds like misfiring
    I recently replaced the entire exhaust system and the problem has worsen since.

    Anyone with an answer to this similar problem? Now I know I am not the only one.
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