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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    2002 Mazda 626 4 Cyl, 40,000 miles.
    I changed the plugs, used Platinum plugs for the replacement.
    As soon as the plugs were changed I noticed a “stutter” or misfire when accelerating from a stop.
    The check engine light never came on.
    I naturally thought it was related to the plugs so I replaced them again with the standard OEM plugs and the problem went away, for a while anyhow.
    About 5000 miles later it started doing the same thing, now with the OEM plugs installed.
    I then changed the plug wires and the problem, again, went away, for a while.
    Now after another ~5000 miles I was driving and the check engine light came on, the misfire problem is back and now a bit worse.
    The only OBDII code is P0301, Cyl #1 misfire…nothing else.
    I suspect the Ignition Coil.
    Anyone have any suggestions?
    Also would the coil be considered part of the emission system for warranty purposes?

    Thanks
  • My 2000 mazda 626 has recently began to make a loud noise when i break in the left rear tire. The last time the breaks where done was at 60K, its at 89K and I'm sure its due. Does anyone have an idea of what it is (pads?) and more importantly know of a good reliable place in los angeles/ west hollywood area to fix it. thanks
  • Does anyone have the 94 mazda 4 cylinder with auto tranny. The one that has the EEC Iv plus the mazda DLC (diagnostic locator) box. I need to do a visual chek of something .
    If so please reply to this thread. Its driving me nuts
    TIA m
    Pgp
  • I have a 94 mazda 626 4 cyl. manual and when i start the car the engine check light goes on and the car acts as if its stalling but then picks up and light goes off. Added to this when i am diving slow and changing gears a lot the idling shoots up to abt 2000rpm but if I drive on the highways its stay ok. I had this problem checked before and the mechanic told me the engine gasket was broke and the oil was leaking into the spark plugs. He fixed it and the car was ok for a while but the idling has started again. The erratic starting however still remained. Today I had started my car after a mnth as I was out and the car started and then stopped. I restarted the car and it seemed fine but while driving the engine light goes on. I stopped 2-3 times and restarted and the light disappears but then comes on after a while. Idling is still very high if i drive slow. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks
  • jayh2jayh2 Posts: 1
    Baffling problem with my 2000 Mazda 626 ES V6. After accelerating and when the brakes are applied, there is a very loud "click" from the front of the car. I've had two mechanics look at the problem. The noise went away when the brakes were adjusted. After a few thousand miles, it returned. I had the pads replaced (even with 50% life still remaining) and the noise went away. Then, a few thousand miles later, the click reappeared. I also notice that there is less brake dust on the front wheels than there used to be (and more on the rear wheels). This model has 4-wheel discs. The mechanics told me that the front end looks safe, but the loudness of the click tells me that something could be wearing badly.
    Thanks
  • Did you ever have your '90 DX looked at for possible problems with the spark plugs, wires or distributor cap? Mazda claims that I need a tune up, but they have already taken me for over $300 bucks stating that my fuel injectors an induction system was very dirty!
  • While in neutral the rpm will jump from normal to near 2000 rpm as if i was pressing the gas pedal but hasent ever stalled.................it also during driving it will do the same thing very quickly 2500-3000. ( it feels like a slipping clutch with stick shift) i have bosch +2 plugs newer cap and pin.
  • 6duece6duece Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 mazda 626 v6 automatic it has 170,000 bought it used off a dumb woman that didnt know how to put oil in teh damn thing but anyways thats fixed but for some reason i cant put the car down into 1st or 2nd itj ust wont let me shift it manually and the other problem is that everytime i start the car in the hot weather after its already been ran it takes so long to get it running it wants to die when i put it it drive it sounds like its cloggin up like the fuel pump or something and i just put a brand new cadilittic converter on it what is wrong with this 6duece
  • itzmeitzme Posts: 3
    I'd get the fuel injectors cleaned. Think it costs around $100.

    I would also replace the fuel filter.... did this myself....cost $13 had to undo 5 screws..... 1/2 hour work...... same car as yours..... 130K miles the old filter was probably working at 40%.....

    My mechanic could never get a code on the engine light.......... I had the light go on off for 2 years! Now it's gone! :shades:
  • itzmeitzme Posts: 3
    I have the car - don' know about the EEC DLC stuff..
  • Thanks for the insight. I had some more info. on this problem. My friend has a Honda civic which gave him the same problems like mine with the engine light. He got it checked and his spark plugs were misfiring causing the light to go on. I had this problem earlier when oil leaked into the spark plugs causing them to misfire and I had changed the engine gasket. This also for some time reduced the idling in the car. However at that time the engine light never came on. Do you think this could be the problem as well? Should I get the injectors cleaned or replace plugs or both? :confuse:
  • Hey ITZME when you look at your air filter box does it close down fully over the filter , not leaving any corners exposed. Mine leaves the front left ,passenger side corner exposed by about 1/2 inch and I can see the orange top of the OEM air filter exposed. It was so hot when I was in Greece that I could not stand to work on it. I am going back soon could you see if yours closing fully over filter ?
    The filter housing part is 23-6731 in case you have a print out from mazda or anything. Just the plain old filter housing . I hope yours is the same as mine I know Mazda made a few changes mid year and some are different than others
    Thx Mucho
    PGP
  • I have a 1994 Mazda 626, which is now on its 3rd transmission (the original blew up in 1998, the second in 2003) Now, lucky me, it has a leak at the seal between the engine and transmission...that is what the mechanic told me ( i know a slight bit about cars, not enough to fix big troubles...can't remember what seal he called that). I was wondering if anyone had success in using anything to repair these without taking out the seal( ie without the huge repair bill! :P ) I read about using a product on the outside of the seal called Right Stuff gasket maker that is put on outside of seal. I don't expect a permanent fix, but was hoping to get this car through the winter, or at least for a few months until I can afford to buy a better used car. Anyone have any other ideas? If not, does anyone think I can keep driving and topping up the fluid for a few months? It is not a giant leak, still shows full even with the little spot on the driveway.
  • I replaced the transaxle seals and they were not very expensive. My tranny threw a spot of oil when hot and downshifting under load. I ran the car like that for 5 months and my auto tranny rebuilder told me it would last for a least that long as long as I didnt go faster than 80 mph and punch it hard. He said change them at my leisure , just keep an eye on it.They are left and right transaxle seals if thats the ones he told you. They frequently go according to the Haynes manual I have Do not overfill tranny as that will cause undue pressure on it.
    Is it a four clylinder? I have the bills here the parts were FW 50-27-238 and list price was 6.60 each pre discount at Mazda dealer. It cost me less than $45 to have them installed and if you can find a decent mechanic to do them it might pay to go the correct route.
    If you have the 4 banger could you look at my post above yours #1842 and answer the question I have posed there.
    Thx Good Luck PGP :)
  • PGP:

    The mechanic said it is the seal between engine and transmission...he said to replace it would involve lifting out the transmission, which is why it was expensive. I didn't get an exact price,but he said it could be high hundreds due to labor costs. He just did a quick inspection on hoist as he was closing for long weekend, but so far he has been a fair and reasonable mechanic. I am guessing that it must not be the ones you are talking about...unless replacing them helps the other?
    Odd part about it is about 6 weeks ago we drove just out of the city and back, and as we drove back noticed funny smell. Got home and tranny fluid was gushing out- could see the trail of it as I parallel parked, big pool under car. It had been filled a month previous, now almost empty. Filled it enough to get to garage, did tranny flush and wash, refilled with gasket sealer too, they could find no leak...they took it for lots of test drives, nothing. It has been fine until yesterday when I drove to the far end of the city and back, and saw leak (smaller, not a gusher). The problems seem to hapen when it is driven far (not fast- mostly city streets)...problem is I now need to drive it across the city a few times a week starting Wednesday!
    Thanks for the reply

    PS It is a 4 cyl. I will check mine later today and get back to you about the filter box.
  • PGP
    I checked mine, and there is no gap. The box closes tight on all sides. I do know we have had trouble with it closing when we changed air filter...took some force...I think it is just a poorly made piece.
  • The funny smell should have been accompanied by some smoke. Tranny fluid leaks and usually drips onto the frame or nearbly and the fan or highspeed driving cause it to flow back and land on exhaust system. Then it smells and smokes due to heat.
    Well thats quite diiferent than what caused mine. Mine threw fluid after 2 hours high speed drivng and then on mountainous roads passing antoher car ( DOWNSHIFT). But driving far in your car could cause it to run at the high end of its heat range , like mine from high speed driving for 2 hours. It might pay to get a second look unless you really trust mechanic?
    Its not so easy to tell when its on a lift. Might pay to wipe it all clean and take a second look. I also installed an external cooler on mine to keep tranny temp down. They only cost $50 and not too much to install and taht might keep temperature in normal range. As it gets hotter pressure increases also and really pushes fluid out. I had mine rebuilt 4 years and 16K miles ago, and rebuild guy told me the seals that went on mine are very common when running very hot . Then they almost close down again by themselves. ALMOST. After mine threw about 1/2 liter it didnt leak at all again for the 5 months till I got around to changing seals. I do not know if an engine seal would be the same. The tranny seals are like donuts. I am looking atthe haynes manual and they list Gasket leaks, Seal leaks, and Case leaks in that order.TRy degreasing the are wiping it dry driving for 15 minutes and then looking to find EXACTLY where the leak is from. Would hate to see you get srewed by an unscrupulous mechanic. Again I would suggest a second opinion, unless some one here suggest otherwise
    Good Luck
    PGP
  • Thanks for the info. and advise. I will look under the car again. The car is reaching the point of being given up on soon...but I am hoping for a few more months! It has been a :lemon: all along...although with the constant repairs, it is almost an entirely new car!

    Thanks again, good luck with yours.
  • Check out the Idle Air Control Valve - my speculation is that you have the Air Conditioner on. try it out with the AC off and see if it still surges. then move the gear shift into neutral while you are stopped and see what happens to the idle. There is an idle adjuster screw on the aft corner of the throtle body == turn it left 1/4 turn and see if that helps. I've had all of these problems, and a CEL OBD code for 1507 and 1504 - Idle Air Control issues. You can also remove the idle air control valve assembly from the throttle body and clean it carefully with carb cleaner spray - it resolved about 90% of my issues.
  • about 9 months and 20,000 miles ago, my car started to overheat. Long story short I took it to the dealer and the overflow tank was split at the seam. It was replaced under warranty of the car (which is now expired). Well, the other day my car starts to overheat again...so I pull off the road and sure enough the bugger is shootin' fluid out the seam. I called the dealer and of course the warranty on the part is a year OR 12,000 miles.

    Anyway I am now on the hunt for a used overflow tank. They dealer wants like $80 for a new one. my question/concern is whether this is a known problem (I have scoured the message board here and haven't really found anything on the overflow tank issue. If it is not a known issue, what can cause the overflow tank to split the seam like that in such a short span of time. Any help would be appreciated.

    THANKS
  • I have a 94 626, 4 cyl manual. Car just quit starting. One night it worked fine, the next morning wouldn't start. It does everything it is supposed to except fire.
    Took it into CrappyTire (ie Canadian Tire), they have spent 3 hrs and don't know what the problem is!!! Go figure.
    The "mechanic" says it turns over but doesn't fire. I thought it didn't turn over. As I crank the key it sounds as though it will start but doesn't "catch". A friend checked out the starter and it seemed fine.
    Ideas???
    Thanks.
  • The exact thing happened to mine a couple of months ago, drove home in pm, no start in am... car sounded like it wanted to start, just never made it all the way there. It wasn't the no start sound you get from battery, and would make all the usual sounds of starting right up to the point of where the engine kicks in (hard to describe, but sounds familiar to wwhat you said) It turned out to be a faulty spark plug wire. We replaced the wire set and is fine...well except for the leaky transmission I wrote about a week ago!!! In replacing the wires, we first checked the plugs ("we" as in the mechanic did and told me they were ok...he thought it could be either plug or wire)
    Too bad it is at Crappy, they are trouble. If you have any way of taking it somewhere else, I would recommend it (I have a friend who used to work there, the stories he tells.....)
  • Anything new with your tranny? Just curious
    PGP
  • Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF that I mentioned in post #1830. To repeat before I order the MAf do either of you think, that the air filter box being exposed (to the orange colored top of the filter that I can see in the front passenger side of the corner which is before MAF and the throttle housing could be the cause of any problems. Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it should. Could the air be coming in at the corner of the filter housing and be causing any problems?
    Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner?
    Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL.
    I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ).
    Thx a lot
  • Anything new with your tranny? Just curious
    PGP

    Well, still leaks, but when it is a short drive barely at all, sometimes nothing...longer hauls it leaves its mark. I have been checking fluid levels regularily, and so far hasn't lost enough to make much of a dent. I have a few bottles of fluid in trunk, just in case. Haven't had a chance for a second opinion yet, and am keeping my eyes open for a used car, which will not be another mazda! Figured I will try something else for a while...need to spend some time looking at reviews. I am not sinking more money into this one, from everyone I have talked to, the repair is not a cheepie, have to life transmission out, so no way

    Hopefully you are having better luck with yours.
  • You cabn probably baby it like that for quite a while. When I had to make long trips (3hours 80 MPH) I would stop for coffee 35 for minutes midway and check the fluid till I had the seals replaced.
    Baby it and good luck. I will know more about mine when I get to Greece
    PGP :)
  • 17181718 Posts: 3
    Can someone help me locate the thermostat on the 2000 Mazda 626? It's a 2 5 liter engine. Having trouble with it "sticking" closed, not allowing the air blowing from the heater and defroster to warm up.....Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    This is a duplicate post....try to stay in one forum with one question if you can.

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  • 17181718 Posts: 3
    It is hard to tell what the exact temp is, as there are no numbers....however, it was running in the "normal" range (to the left of the center of the gauge). When I drove it today, first thing in the morning, I choose not to use the heater/defroster. The temp gauge went up past the center and into the right side of the gauge at a pretty rapid rate. I quickly turned on the heater/defroster at full bore and instantly the temp came back down to the normal range...it fluxuated slightly from normal to the middle of the gauge then settled into the normal range. The heater/defroster started blowing "heated" air just like it's suppose to. Could it be that the thermostat was "stuck" and it may have opened back up? Any other suggestions?
    Thanks for you help. :confuse:
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