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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • I've not heard any previous complaints about the headrests, though anything is breakable under the right - or the wrong - circumstances.

    Problems shifting? Is the clutch working properly?

    I'd suspect a strut mount before the actual bearing, but it's really impossible to tell without putting the squeeze on the darn thing.

    And to be honest, I've never even looked for the freeze plug on the 2.0s I've owned; then again, it hasn't gotten down much below 10 (-12 C) here. Things are way different Up North. I suspect, though, it's tricky to get to.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    When I installed my block heater it was put in the freeze plus located in the left front of the engine of my 1991. Block heaters are an enormous benefit to keep the engine warm and running smooth when temps are below freezing.
  • my 1995 mazda 626 4 cyl auto tranny died. around three months ago i drained the atx fluid. it came out in gobs. lot of sludge. i replaced the fluid and added lubeguard.i drove the car for a couple of weeks then parked it for a couple of months. i started it today and it would hardly move forward with high rpms reverse did the same it wont move but a couple of feet and that's it. what could have happened. all help will be appreciated. thanks, john
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Might be a clogged filter, from your description of the old fluid. If not, probably the pressure regulator valve in the transaxle is stuck. An oil pressure test would determine if it is.
  • adding to post 1361. i started the car today and the trans worked in all positions, after running for about three minutes the same problem no go in all positions. tried it an hour later and the same thing happened. works durng the first couple of minuits then nothing. if i rev it up it tries to work. any clues?
  • My wife's 626 was given to her by her parents, who bought it new. It has jerked when shifting from 1st to 2nd since the day they bought it. It has 65K miles, and other than this transmission problem, the car has had nothing we've had to worry about. The interior (especially the leather) and exterior are immaculate. I've been reading about these tranny problems and have wanted to get rid of it before it goes out, but would I really want to get rid of this red beauty just because of the transmission? Can I expect the "speedometer fix" to help the jerking?
  • It might, but I have my doubts, especially if your speedo is actually working properly the rest of the time.

    As for those other problems you read about, well, the ES that year was a six-cylinder car, which means you have, not the dreaded LA4A-EL (CD4E) tranny, but the somewhat more robust GF4A-EL. And the nature of this particular beast is that it's never going to shift as inconspicuously as, say, an old Buick Dynaflow. Have your service guy change the fluid (which, assuming you followed Mazda's recommendations to the letter, has never been done) and see what happens.
  • Torque-converter clutch refusing to yield, maybe?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    No. The torque converter clutch provides a positive connection between the crankshaft and transaxle input shaft. If it won't release, the engine stalls when trans is shifted into gear.
  • Next time, I shall read them twice before I shoot off my mouth, as obviously once isn't always enough. :)

    I suppose it would help if there were codes pulled, but he hasn't said anything about that yet.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check out the part in post #1361 about the condition of the fluid he drained out. :o(
  • And, I repeat: "Yech".

    Well, if the stuff managed to get congealed, all manner of things could have been mangled inside that little slushbox.

    I'm just surprised it worked at all with a fresh fill, I guess.
  • Hello everybody!
    It seems that it's my turn to ask for help...
    I love my 626 LX 2000, but one unpleasant feature makes me creazy: the wee-wee sound while you turning the steering wheel. I talked to a mechanic and he says that plastic cover on the wheel expends from the heat and touches the piece that doesn't move. He knows about this problem and even called Mazda but nobody knows how to fix this. So far I refuse to believe in the unfixability and was wondering if anybody has this?

  • It's not so difficult to pull that cover, but then you're stuck guessing exactly where it's making contact - unless there's a spot that's obviously worn. A lot of people have reported this on a lot of different cars; I suspect it's just the tolerances adding up in the wrong direction.

    There doesn't seem to be a TSB on this, either.
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    2002 626 LX 4 Cylinder Automatic with 3K miles:
    I have a "whine" coming from the engine area that varies with engine RPM. It varies from just audible to real annoying. It seems to get worse with the electrical system under load. Also under hard acceleration it's very loud. I think it's the alternator. If I rev the engine in park I hear it. The dealer, as usual, says that everything is working fine. My other 626, a 2001, same model, does not make any noise. What do you think? Could it be a defective alternator?
    It really is starting to drive me crazy.

  • The dash panel on my '94 626 is dead. The Check Engine Light, Brake Light, etc. are all dead when I turn on the ignition. However, I can start the car, turn on the headlights, but I can't shift into reverse. Any ideas as to which fuse is blown, or what the problem may be? Thanks
  • I'm thinking more likely the belt than the alternator itself. Make them retension it and see if the noise goes away.
  • When the gauges go, it's usually the METER fuse, which on my car at least is 10 amps (red). This in itself would not affect the transmission, so I'm going out on a limb here and speculating that the shift linkage got out of whack, in the process causing the shift-indicator gizmo to turn to slag, which in turn took out the METER fuse for the gauge panel. The alternative is that the IG KEY fuse in the main fuse block under the dash is messed up, which would affect the METER circuit, but it seems to me that if IG KEY were bad, you wouldn't be able to start.

    Of course, the transmission issue could be wholly unrelated, in which case you'll have two easy (one expensive) problems instead of one difficult one.
  • Yes it was the METER fuse. When this blows, it also locks the the gear shift. You can override the lock, by putting a spare key into the lock to the right of the shifter. Thanks for your help
  • Doesn't do that on the newer ones. On the other hand, they don't have the key-lock by the shifter either.

    Anyway, I'm happy to see it's fixed, and better yet, fixed cheaply. :)
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