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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Well, I am fast approaching the 150k mile mark on my '99 ES V6. The engine is still running strong and everything works.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The best way to avoid automatic transmission failures is to get a manual transmission. Especially in a Mazda.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,722
    Adding a transmission cooler for about $200 seems to help also.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Apparently it does. I recently talked to a Mazda tech who works at the local Mazda dealership. He has a Mazda 626 witha 4 cyl engine and the infamous Ford transmission. He has over 140k on the car and still no transmission issues with the original unit. He told me bought the car slightly used and immediately installed a large external oil cooler to keep the transmission oil cool.

    But I bet that he flushes the transmission and replaces the fluid very frequently too.
  • jeff46jeff46 Posts: 1
    my 1994 626 will not pass the nox emission test. any help
  • knownotknownot Posts: 3
    We have a 2001 Mazda 626 with over 75,000 miles. My check engine light came on yesterday after running a few errands. The car was running fine. I checked my coolant level and it is low, but car is not running hot. The light still came on after I added water. We do zip maintenance other than oil changes. The owners manual says use Mazda brand orange coolant. I want to try changing the coolant myself. Will I have to wait until Monday and buy coolant from the dealer? What would be the equivalent in another brand? I checked with our solid waste authority and I know where to take old coolant. The manual says 7.9 quarts of coolant. It seldom gets more than -5F here. So I figure a gallon jug and then water will be about the right mix. What do I need other than coolant and a container that will hold at least three gallons? What else simple can I do to possibly make the light go out? I think spark plugs are beyond me. My trusted independent mechanic has retired and I'm not very impressed with local dealer. Money is very tight.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Deal with the CEL first by going to AutoZone and have them
    pull the codes...this procedure will fit your last sentence
    quite nicely...ITS FREE. Good luck
  • knownotknownot Posts: 3
    Thank you for replying. Advance Auto Parts is another chain that will read the code for free. The code is PO 455. I think that means major leak in emission control/exhaust system. I know this is probably a big expensive repair, but I did crawl under the car (first time ever) from several vantage points and inspect it with a flashlight. I think I found 3 problems. Is there someplace I can view a simple overview of the underside? I know I can buy a manual for under $20, but the last time I did that the car died forever soon after that. I don't remember who published the manual for my old Reviera. I know it was not Chilton.
    I found the manual frustrating because it would say remove part X to reach part Z. I want a manual that says remove part X by... to reach part X. If I a diagram similar to the engine compartment overview in the owner's manual, then I could say the bracket under A is only held by one screw/bolt and there is another hole on the bracket and and on A. I need a basic vocabulary. Our state does not have an emissions test. We have been driving in town with the windows wide open,rather than burn gas on air conditioning. We have a carport rather than a garage. We are down to the one car. Is it safe to drive it until I can get a service appointment?
    Thanks
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    These are generally DIYable without much difficulty, though you have to be sure you purge all the air out of the water lines; otherwise you'll wind up with a bubble and poor flow and scary temp readings. (I've seen even dealerships mess this up.)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Yes, you should use only Mazda orange coolant. Here is my experience with changing coolant on my '99 V6:

    I always change my own coolant. This V6 engine has no engine block drain plug. There is a plate with a gasket on the back of the engine block that could be removed to drain coolant, but it is very difficult to access and Mazda delaer strongly recommended not removing it. So I just drained the radiator (there is a 10 mm hex plastic drain plug on the right lower corner of the radiator. You must be extremely carful not overtighten it or you will strip the plastic threads).

    Anyway, just draining the radiator on the V6 and disconnecting the lower radiator hose will drain slightly less than a gallon of coolant. So do not mix more than 1/2 gallon of Mazda coolant and 1/2 gallon of distilled water for the recommended 50/50 mix. And yes, do use DISTILLED water, irrespective of what somebody tells you.

    After you refill the system through the coolant overflow bottle (no radiator cap on the V6 radiator), start the engine and run it with the overflow tank filler cap off. Otherwise the air will not be purged from the system and hot air pockets may be trapped in the cooling system, giving abnormally high momentary temperature readings. Add coolant as necessary to top off. Then reinstall the cap on the overflow bottle and take the car fro a spin. After you park it and the engine cools off, check the bottle level and add more coolant if necessary. You may have to repeat this one more time.

    The only time I drained about 2 gallons of coolant from my engine was when I removed the water pump during the timing belt service. I replaced the water pump too.

    The coolant overflow plastic bottles on these cars are of poor quality. I am on my third bottle at 150K miles, as all of them developed slow leaks along the bottom seam at some point. I imagine that the ones in the 4 cylinder version are not a whole lot better. Recommend replacing them every 60k miles.
  • How do I change this. I have seen one place to just pull the nob off. I've seen i had to take the air bag out and wheel and clock spring. anyone know how to do it?
  • carguy32carguy32 Posts: 6
    hAVE HAD CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PROBLEMS FOR SEVERAL YEARS. i JUST DID A VALUE JOB AND CAR RUNS GOOD BUT LIGHT COME ON STILL. i CHECKED THE CODE WITH A lAUNCHcREADER GENERIC obdii READER AND HAD A CODE OF 1633. i CAN NOT FIND MY CODE BOOK FOR THE READER. aNYONE HAVE ONE THAT COULD LOOK THIS UP AND LET ME KNOW WHAT IT SAYS. THANKS CARGUY32
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    If I remember correctly (I'm out of 626-land these days), this was an overcharge code: the battery is evidently getting more than the 14, or whatever, volts it expects.
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I retrofitted some 134A valves onto it,and put in a freon charge but it is not cold (semi cold). Pressure is good(40 PSI)I was thinking a specialist could evacuate the system and evaluate the compressor, expansion valve, etc. Any input would be appreciated very much.
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I have a 1990 626 4 cylinder,and was getting bucking and went out and got a new ignition rotor and ignition cap,installed them and the bucking is gone.
  • bululubululu Posts: 1
    I've met the same problem, just replaced a CV.
  • lnavlnav Posts: 13
    Replaced front tires, mounted, balanced and had 4 wheel alignment done. Feels good runs smooth, no more shaky steering wheel. BUT now I feel as if though my car is swaying, not constantly, mostly on highway. It feels as if the rear wheels are catching onto something on the road which causes my car to sway. Feels unstable like I may lose control. Thanks
  • chacha62chacha62 Posts: 4
    I am at 108,000 on my 01 626. Runs great, having a little over heating issue, took it in to be looked at. The guy at pep boys is telling me a I need a new compressor the hose is clogged. I had him talk to my husband on the phone, funny I left 2 hrs later with my reservoir has a leak. I have a question for you. My manual says to replace the timing belt at 106,000. I have not done that. My husband thinks I crazy for wanting to get it changed, he said you will know when its going to go out on you, he is a former mechanic. I guess I am a worry wart I think it should be changed out.
  • mcivermciver Posts: 1
    hi! i recently purchased a 1991 mazda 626 4cyl, automatic, 155k miles, four door car.. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, and air cleaner... heres the problem.. when leaving a stoplite, in drive with the a/c on or off, sometimes the car seems to stutter/hesitate, stumble.. its kinda hard to describe, when i try to accelerate the car picks up and drops rpms..im kinda lost as to where to start to fix the problem. it doesnt do it every time, it does it wether its hot or cold.. anybodys suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!thanks-Mark
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    I have the Haynes Manual for Mazda 1993 thru 2001 including both OBDl and OBD-ll. All the OBD ll codes start with a P and then an 0 for example PO100, PO102 etc .
    My Manual shows nothing resembling what you have listed Maybe you can get it read at Auto Zone for free and come back with the new code. I will be checking in every few days.
    Good Luck
    PGP :)
  • hsriramhsriram Posts: 1
    I've 2000 Mazda 626 LX - 123 K miles. It has a check engine light that comes on and off though these days it is almost on. Of late on taking the car to about 20 miles, O/D Light starts flashing. The only code that comes out is PO421. This code states that the catalytic converter is bad. Another mechanic seeing the same code adviced that the O2 sensors are bad and need to be relaced. Yet another mechanic says that the car has 2 catalytic converters - any one of them could be bad and even there could be a case that the O2 sensors are bad and giving wrong signals and on taking the car to long drives, with repeated signals to the computer starts flashing O/D light. I'm a very confused person now. Are all the problems related? What is the actual problem? Can someone help me nail it down? Thanks in advance.
  • loduffyloduffy Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Mazda 626 LX (4 cyl). It has ~68000 miles on it. Earlier this year, before the day light saving began, and the weather was cooler, if I turned on the head light in the morning, and braked to stop, the car would shake. In the evening, the symptom was milder. A friend of mine thought my alternator was malfunctional. So I went to Autozone to have them test it. It turned out both the battery and the alternator were all right.

    Now, in the summer, I don't drive with head light on that much; but the air condition takes the place of the head light, and the symptom is more severe. When the air condition is on, and I brake to a stop, the car will shake. If I don't turn off the air condition quickly, the engine will stall. The air condition works fine other wise (when I don't have to brake to stop, eg on free way).

    I believe these two things are related, but don't know where lies the fault. Please help. Thanks a lot
  • bgautreaubgautreau Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Mazda 626 LX with a 4 CYL. Purchase in Feb 06 @ 162000 kms it is now 183000km. Very good in gaz and run smoothly, perfect to drive in town or go on highway with no hill. I do have 1 question

    Everything, I push the brake to fast, try to pass a car...well everytime the car need power, the engine light goes on, I have to release the gaz, let him breaths and try again smoothly. I now it has no power but this is definitly a problem. The women that have it before tell me that she did bring it to a dealer and put it on the computer, but they found nothing.

    It is may be fact that it has not enough air coming?

    When I try to pass a car in a hill, it goes okay, after 5-10 sec, Engine light come on and rpm goes at 4 and stuck there. engine dies, like I have not the feet on the floor. It looks like that there is no overdrive(it works). If someone knows what I am saying, please respond
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    A common problem with the 4 cylinder is the air ducting that is between the Mass Air flow meter and the throttle housing. You should check this for leaks, and cracks . That can be causing unmonitored air to enter and throw off the mixture. I personally have little faith in all the people that read codes. In your Diagnostic Control box right before battery ,open it up and see if they are actually connector wires in the TENS and GRND slots. Mine where empty, and people were trying for 4 years to draw codes and with no connectors I can see why they found no error codes. Make sure this box has those connectors or you may have the bastardized FORD EEC lV combo Mazda diagnostic system. In that case the way of drawing codes is easier but totally different and even most Mazda mechanics do not now how to do it . Does your car have a FORD CDE4 transmission? Also look in door jamb was it built in the USA?
    Let me know and I can tell you how to read codes to help you diagnose it if it is not the air ducting. It is very possible thatyou need a newair flow meter. I changed mine and the car is runnning great after 3 years searching for the problem and almost setting fire to car in frustration.
    PGP
  • glinggling Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    The engine in my car ceased running on the way home from work yesterday. The engine started losing power and acceleration while cruising at ca. 50 mph. The loss of power eventually led to a stall over about 5 seconds. The car would not start and had to be towed. Prior to this (an hour or so), the engine was running a little rough with a noticeable loss of power and tend to idle at about 500 RPM or less. The weather was rather hot over the last few days (high 90s). There was a peculiar odor in the car when I drove to work in the morning and I can't really describe it. I had a half tank of gas and the spark plugs along with the fuel filter were replaced about a month ago. Further attempts to start the car this morning were unsuccessful; the starter and perhaps, the engine turns but that's about it. My check-engine-light is on but it has been on for some time now. It would be intuitive for me to heed some attention to the warning but I am just using this car as a banger for a while longer. I've managed to check a few things before I hitched a ride to work today:

    1. I checked the belts on the left hand side of the engine and they were not broken (I will check to see if they are worn later today). I've read that the timing belt may be a cause but I am not sure where to look. I saw a total of two or three belts when I was looking this morning.

    2. Fuel filter doesn't seem to be leaking; I was wondering if I had installed the filter wrong last month.

    3. Opened the oil cap on the top of the engine and had someone try to start the car. I couldn't see anything moving and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to except for a small pin of some sort rise up and down. I didn't look too closely though.

    4. Oil and coolant levels were at specification.

    There have been a couple of suggestions here and there about similar problems but not very specific. I was wondering if anyone had any different suggestions or for that matter, just plain reiterate a few previous suggestions. From what I've gathered already, it could be a problem with:

    1. fuel lines
    2. fuel pump
    3. air duct manifold
    4. distributor cap and/or rotor
    5. fuel pressure regulator
    6. fuel pump relay
    7. alternator
    8. spark plug cables
    9. mass airflow meter
    10. timing belt
    11. heck, I might as well list parts for the entire car.

    I'm not too savvy with the more complicated (relative I guess) aspects of a car engine but am mechanically able. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    There seems to be a direct relatioship between sensors and codes caused. I was getting and MAF sensor code and an O2 sensor code. After replacing MAF the O2 code never came back. My book shows the P0420 and Po430 code as Catalyst effeciency system below threshold. As this can be thrown off by numerous things , I would continue to look for a better mechanic that is not going to guess, and change parts randomly till your broke.Especially the guy that tells you that code is O2 sensor. It could very well be O2 sensor but unless he is getting a different code he is guessing.
    Remember codes do not mean a part , or sensor is defective , it just leads to a place to look for the problem . Your converters could be running inefficiently because of 2 rich a mixture and that could be Mass AIr Flow meter, or O2 sensors. Is that the only code they get or is it the one they are telling you about . Have you watched while they drew it?
    You also mention that it comes on some times and most of the times now. Is it more prevalent when hot. I would have them clear all the codes (there are hard codes and memory codes)and redraw codes the first time it comes on.

    If you have recreated the same driving action you may get a lead about which direction to start first.
    Investigate, learn and do not beleive the first or second mechanic especially when they do not agree entirely.
    It took me 3 years here in Greece and 4 mazda dealers till I found out the problem.( I FOUND IT NOT THEM) with help from these forums and soem research.
    Try to be more specific under what condtitions the first inkling of the light going on after all codes are cleared and come back and tell us
    PGP
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    HAVE YOU CHECKED MOTOR MOUNTS? ENGINES PRODUCE VIBRATION IN DIFFERENT STAGES OF USE, THAT GO UNRECOGNIZED WHEN YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS ARE FUNTIONING PROPERLY.
    THAT WILL NOT BE THE ANSWER TO YOUR OVERALL PROBLEM BUT IT CAN BE THE REASON YOU ARE FEELING THAT SHAKE. I REPLACED MOUNTS AND NO LONGER FEEL THE SHAKE WHEN AIR CONDITIOING COMPRESSOR KICKS IN. IT IS STILL THERE BUT MINIMIZED AS IT SHOULD BE.
    IF MOUNTS ARE BAD THATS A START. THEN YO HAVE TO DRAW CODES TO SEE WHAT IS CAUSING EXTRAORDINARY VOLTAGE DROPS THAT CAUSE THE BAD ENGINE FIRING .DID AUTO ZONE DRAW ANY CODES ?? DO EITHER FIRST ACCORDING TO BUDGET
    GOOD LUCK
    PGP
    PGP
  • stee1stee1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 with the same problem. It is a very strange problem indeed. My car did the same thing 1 year ago on my way to work. It would not crank for 10 days so I had it towed. When the mechanic tried to crank the car it started right up. He ran a computer diagnosis and it read that it was the sensor. He said that I would have to have the distributor cap replaced to fix the sensor, but he said that it didn't mean that the sensor was the problem. Since it was running fine without any maintenance, I didn't do anything to it. I have driven it for a year with no problems until now. It has done it again but has not cranked since. It has been 12 days. I am going to have it towed again and maybe it will crank! I will let you if a mechanic can fix mine.
  • I can confirm the fix. I had the exact same symptons, I picked up 2 bushings from the dealer (who wanted to charge me $200 for the install), then went to firestone who installed them for 40 Bucks. Thunks and trunk rattling gone. For anyone else having this issue, I would start with the sway bar bushing. Thanks backy :shades:
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