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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • 1st msg 1361.1995 mazda 626 4 cyl auto the 1st problem was the trans would not respond to any selection from rev. to 1. i replaced the transaxle range sensor and now the tranny responds to all settings. the new problem is while in park when i rev the engine to about 2k rpm when i release the pedal it takes around 6 sec. for the rms to drop. when i put it in rev. the rpms drop to below 600 rpms and at times the engine dies.when it doesn't die and stays running, and i select rev. or drive with the hand brake on the trans. will engage and disengage on it's own every five or ten seconds. i am afraid to drive it in order to get the codes pulled. the way haynes repair manual says to do it does not work on my 1995 model. does anyone know how to pull these codes. the cel does not come on but the od light flashes once in a while. any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks, john
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    I was driving my mpv the other day and when I came to a stop, the radio shut off. I also noticed There was no indication of what gear it was in as I shifted into park. From that point I could not shift back out of park. I think it was the "cigar" fuse I found that was burnt. After seeing that, I immediately looked up to find a shiny new penny that my two year old daughter decided to deposit in the lighter socket. I'm glad it happened while I was driving and not while the nanny or wife was with the kids!
  • Think throttle-position sensor. (And think tow truck.)
  • Just got a '99 626 LX AT - pretty happy with
    it except for one thing - when I try to adjust
    the power seat UP, the engine starts to die, kinda like when you turn on the AC in an underpowered car. I tried to recreate the engine dying by turning on every other electrical component, but it only dies when the power seat is adjusted up.

    Any thoughts? Could this be a belt related thing?
  • My '91 626 has bad CV boots and joints. They pop when I turn. I know I need to replace the boots and probably the shaft as well. My questions: How hard is a repair like this for the average home mechanic? Should I bite the bullet and pay a certified care repair shop to do it? What's an average cost for this type of work?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If you're going to do it yourself, just replace the entire shaft. By the noise you described that's what you need to do anyway.
  • It's relatively DIYable; the trick is to remember to plug the transaxle as you pull out the halfshaft, so the differential side gear doesn't roll out of position. I don't think you have to do nasty things like pull engine mounts on the '91s. Out here on the Lone Prairie, a rebuilt axle with fresh boots is under a hundred bucks.
  • If the other functions are normal, I'd blame the switch before the motor.

    The bad news, of course, is that you have to pull out the seat either way.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a mazda 626 LX 4cyl. 5spd. and have about 222,000 miles on it. I bought it at 88,000 miles and have nevre replaced the O2 sensors on it.

    I was wondering if you guys think it is waste of a money for me to go out and buy O2 sensors and have them installed, even with nothing wrong with the car. If I were to replace the O2 sensors then which ones should I buy and how much would it cost to me to replace them ??

    Thanx all.
  • No sense spending the money to fix it. And OEM sensors are pricey; you didn't specify what year 626 you have, but at least some models will work with so-called "universal" sensors if you save the connector from the original factory sensor and reuse it.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Thnx for the quick reply,
    Given the year and mileage of the car, should I still go ahead and change it ??
  • If you're not burning scads of fuel, you probably don't need the new sensor. On the other hand, I've never before heard of one lasting this long, but almost anything is possible on a '93.

    (Define "scads of fuel"? Okay, how about worse than 22 mpg.)
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Actually I get pretty good mileage on the car. About 420 miles per tank ( I think about 13 gallons) per fill up.
    Does this mean I should not chage, becasue I read somewhere that this should be part of a major tuneup. Thnx again.
  • Change the plugs once in a while, the plug wires every few years, and the timing belt at 60k, and there's no need to pay for some "major tuneup" package.
  • Hello everyone. I have a 99 ES V6 Auto and had to have some of the dash panel bulbs replaced just after I bought the car. That was no problem. However, when I got the car back, my daytime running lights don't work now. Asked the mechanic and he says no correlation. Any suggestions? (also, some of the bulbs behind the tach are still out) Thanks!
  • '93 626 ES w/ factory alarm. The alarm goes off now nearly every time I unlock it. Started doing this a few months ago regardless of the key I use.

    After turning the key in the lock cylinder there is a delay before the alarm sounds. Locking/unlocking it a again several times shuts it off but it's quite annoying now.

    The small door that covers the cylinder is recently broken off on the driver's side but same thing happens on passenger side. Any clues?
  • I purchased a new leftover 2000 Mazda 626 LX with the V6 & 5 speed trans in May of 2001. I commute a fair distance, so I have already put on 49,600
    miles. Driving to work yesterday at about the 45 mile mark of my 50 mile commute, the dash lit up like a christmas tree and the car just died. Luckily, I was able to coast to the side of the expressway before becoming involved in an accident. I could not restart the car and after having it towed to the dealer I bought the car from, was told that they believed I had a "fried"
    Power Control Module. Has anyone else out there experienced or heard of this being a problem with this car ? Any suggestions as to what could cause a unit like this to blow ? It's a $700.00
    unit according to the dealer and I'd hate to be replacing one of these after every 50K miles. Hopefully, this part and the labor to install it will be covered under the 3yr/50k "bumper-to-bumper" warranty...any thoughts ???
  • As a longtime DRL hater, I'd like to tell you that I paid off the guy to kill them, but t'ain't so.

    DRLs run off the METER fuse, so that should be the first thing to check. The other things which might inhibit DRLs - parking-brake switch, a misaligned ignition switch - wouldn't have much effect on the gauge panel.
  • It's not especially common, but any computer (and that's all this thing is) can fail, and the timing of the failure always seems to be geared toward maximum inconvenience. The prices seem to be coming down, though; the PCM on my '93 was priced at a stiff $1700.
  • Condensation inside the lock cylinders can make the alarm go nuts. You might consider replacing the cylinders, especially since the little snap-guard is broken on one door, but first see if it responds to a graphite treatment (squeeze a bit onto the key, insert, do some hokey-pokey, wipe off any spillage).
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