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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    It's very possibly noise caused by skipping brake pads on top of rotors. The cuase may be wax or grease contamination of pads and rotors. Cleaning the rotors, sanding them to remove the glaze, and replacing the pads usually solves this probelm. Also, this can be cuased by the caliper sliding pins binding. Need to clean and lubricate the sliding pins with special grease (available at Auto Zone).
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    I just had the timing belt, water pump, valve cover gasket and coolant changed on my 02 626 4 cylinder. There is a noise coming from the side of the engine beneath, or directly at, the water pump area. It is a "loose bolt" sound - if it was internal, I would think it was a valve tappet hitting the inside of the valve cover. My mechanic assures me it is not internal - but he can look at it only in a few days. I will not drive the car in this condition. The car runs fine, good acceleration, revs nicely, no stuttering. Any suggestions as to what this could be, especially if it is related to the timing belt work.
  • You know, if it was related to the timing belt, it would almost probably be the tensioner pulley and or its bolt/spring.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    Thanks. I'll have the work done by midweek and post the results.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    How many miles on the '02 and what kinda shape was the belt?
    We're at 73K and planning on belt change...once money is available.
  • just got it 3 weeks ago and of course is used 79454 miles and now the engine light is coming on/////what does the mean and what needs to be fix???????? :sick:
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    The car had about 60k miles on it. This is the recommended maintenance schedule for a timing belt on the 4 cylinder engine when driven under severe driving conditions. Since I live in a climate with a cold winter, that's the schedule I followed.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Go to Autozone and let them run a code check. Mine was just on, and all I needed was the EGR hoses cleaned. Had the dealer perform the work. Good as new. I have 101k on mine.
  • freemjfreemj Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Mazda at 626. There is this brown waffle looking debris blowing out of AC vents. I'm what it is and what is causing this.
  • thanks for the input...but what i did was change oil and filter,pvc,and spark plugs...yesturday and the engine light came off?????if it comes on again i will take it to autozone....thaks...
  • My 2000 Mazda 626 with 105K miles overheated yesterday and left me stranded. I really hate that. Any the shop says the coolant reservoir has a leak in it. They are saying they tried to pressurize for other leaks, but because of this one they can't keep coolant in to test the rest of the engine. They are wanting $269 for parts and labor. I need to know if I am getting ripped off or if this is a decent price. Any ideas anyone??
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Mazda 626 OEM coolant overflow reservoirs are crap. I am on my third one after 7 years/152K miles. The retail price of the reservoir is about $ 80. It takes 5 minutes to replace it. So, yes, they are ripping you off if all they are doing is replacing the reservoir and some coolant.
  • dadiodadio Posts: 1
    My daughters mazda stopped running. she said it was ratteling a lot. now it does not start at all. It turns over but does not have any compression in all four cylinders. The timing belt is not broken and the distributor is intact and working. While the engine is turning over it just sounds like a long whinning sound. It does still pump oil up to the top end and there is no visible water in it.
  • Just replaced the belt on my 1997 626 and now when the engine is running fluid comes boiling out the top of the resevoir.
  • I own a 2000 Mazda 626 V6

    I was told by a mechanic I need a new Over Flow Tank for the radiator. I am wondering if you know of anywhere that I could buy one and have my mechanic put it in. He said they are easy and it shouldn't take long. I have found a overflow tank at a dealer and another at a autoparts store for $75. I also found a few that say they are good for 98-02 Mazda 626's for under $5. Any help trying to find the right part would be greatly appreciated. The part number I was given was KLG4-15-35-C. I was also given KLG4150H as a number from another place. Thanks again.
  • I need a replacement over flow tank for my 2000 Mazda 626 v6. I was wondering where I could purchase one. I have found one through a dealer, one thorugh a parts shop ($75) and a bunch on the internet for under $5. Not sure what to do or what exactly I am looking for. The part numbers I have been given are KLG4 150H and I was also given KLG4-15-350C by a parts store.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Buy only the OEM tank. Your local dealer probably has one in stock becuase these bottles tend to leak. I am on the third one in my 99 Mazda 626 V6 at 153K miles.

    If you want to save about 40% of Mazda list price and do not mind waiting about two weeks, you can buy it on line through albanymazda.com.
    Forget the $5 universal overflow tanks. They do not have the required nipples to connect to all coolant tubes in your Mazda. Good luck.

    You can replace the bottle easily by yourself. You'll need: a ten mm socket, extension , and ratchet. Small pliers to remove and reinstall the hose clamps. Fill the new tank with a 50/50 mixture of Mzda orange coolant and DISTILLED water.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I just got done replacing the A/C compressor in my Mazda 626 because the bearing on the old compressor clutch disintegrated, destroyed the compressor clutch, and also damaged the shaft seal, so the refrigerant leaked out.
    To do this job, you need to rent a set of A/C gauges and a vacuum pump from Auto Zone ($ 300 deposit refundable upon undamaged return).

    To remove and install the compressor you need to suck out the old refrigerant (unless already empty). You need to take it to an A/C place to have this done. To remove the compressor, you need to jack up the right front of the car, remove the right front wheel, and the right engine splash shield. Then loosen and remove the outer engine belt(alternator&A/C compressor pulley). You need a 10 mm socket with a long extension and a 17 mm open end wrench for this.

    The compressor is held in place by four bolts. First, disconnect the clutch electrical connector. Loosen the compressor mount bolts, remove and drop the compressor slowly onto a wood block with the hoses still connected. You'll need a 13mm(?) socket and a ratchet without an extension for these. Then remove the hose fittings from the suction and discharge ports (10mm hex head bolts I believe).

    When you replace the compressor, you'll also need a new accumulator. This one is mounted next to the firewall on the right side of the engine compartment (closer to right front wheel). You'll need an open 24 mm and 27 mm wrench to loosen the fittings. The accumulator is held in place with two 10 mm hex head bolts. Always replace the O-rings when breaking and reconnecting A/C line connections. Oil the fittings and O-rings liberally with the refrigerant oil. This enables you to tighten the fittings properly. You cannot squish the O-rings too much as the fittings will have metal to metal contact when the O-rings are compressed enough to create a good seal.
    First start and tighten the accumulator fitting connections, then install and tighten the mounting bolts.

    To install a new compressor, first bolt the compressor up loosely and then connect the hose fittings with new O-rings As before, lubricate the O-rings with refrigerant oil. Be very careful to start the fitting bolts in properly and do not over tighten them! Just tighten snugly, otherwise you may strip the aluminum threads.

    Reconnect the compressor clutch connector, making sure the wire is secure and away from the rotating compressor pulley. Secure in place with a wire tie if necessary.

    It is also a good idea to inspect and clean/or replace the orifice tube, which is located in the high pressure line near the right wheel upper strut mount. If the old compressor comes apart internally, pieces of debris will clog the tube, and the tube screens must be cleaned and the system flushed. This did not happen in my case, so I did not have to remove the tube. The access is not easy. A new orifice tube is about $ 14 from a Mazda dealer.

    Note: if you get a new Mazda compressor, it already comes filled with the required amount of PAG refrigerant oil. If you use some other rebuilt compressor, it may not have any oil in it. You'll need to add about 240 ml of 100 viscosity PAG refrigerant oil (recommended for Sanden brand compressors).

    Charging the system:

    First connect the gauges to the high and low side ports. The gauges have quick release couplers. Close both valves and connect the vacuum pump to the middle yellow hose. Start the pump and slowly open both low and high side valves. Let the punmp run about 20 minutes. The desired vacuum is about 29.9 inches of Hg. After 20 minutes, slowly close both gauge valves with the pump STILL RUNNING. DO NOT turn the pump off with the gauge valves open, or you'll suck the vacuum pump oil into your system! Let the system stabilize for about 10 minutes and make sure the vacuum is still maintained.

    The primary purpose of pulling vacuum on the system is to remove the moisture from the system. At high vacuum, the water boils at 10 degrees F!

    After evacuating the system, if the vacuum holds and no leaks are found, screw the valve assembly onto the first refrigerant can and connect to the yellow hose. With the engine off, slowly turn the blue, low pressure side valve open to start charging the system. DO NOT OPEN THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE VALVE! After the pressure of about 60 psi is reached, start the engine. The compressor should come on and cut out about every 5 seconds, This is normal. Continue charging the system. You'll need 750 grams of refrigerant. It will take slightly more than two cans of refrigerant (each can contains 340 grams). When properly charged, the low side pressure should be around 30-35 psi, and high side pressure at idle around 230 psi. High side pressure will hit about 300 psi at 2000 RPM. After the first can, you'll need to rev up the engine some to facilitate flow of refrigerant into the system. Do not turn the can upside down! You do not want to introduce liquid refrigerant into the system, or you can ruin the compressor, as liquids ARE NOT COMPRESSIBLE. The can will get very cold as the gas refrigerant flows out of it.

    It is a good idea at this point to check the line connections with soap solution for any leaks. Even if you have no leaks when pulling vacuum on the system, leaks can demonstrate when the system is pressurized. Do not ask me how I know. If you have access to a special refrigerant sniffer, this is the best way. Make sure your low side pressure does not exceed 45 psi at idle. Anything over 45 psi means the system is overcharged and cooling efficiency is reduced. Low side pressures below 25 psi mean the system is undercharged. The compressor will also cycle frequently if this is the case.

    The cost of parts:

    If you buy the parts from albanymazda.com, you can get a new OEM compressor with clutch, accumulator, orifice tube, and O-rings for about $ 470 plus shipping. Your local Mazda dealer retail price would be about $ 630 plus sales tax for these parts. Refrigerant cost from Auto Zone for three cans is about $ 21. So if you do this job yourself, you'll save about $ 500. A Mazda dealer will charge you about $ 1,000 to install a new compressor and accumulator& orifice tube, and recharge the system.

    This job is not that hard, but you must pay attention to details. I strongly recommend staying away from rebuilt A/C compressors. Auto Zone wanted $ 330 for a rebuilt compressor, which will probably last less than a year. Most rebuilt A/C compressors from discount auto parts stores are absolute junk. For comparison, a new Sanden OEM compressor from albanymazda.com is about $ 365.
  • CAN ANYBODY TELL ME ANYTHING ABOUT HOW TO CHANGE OIL PUMP ON A 1997?.....MY OIL LIGHT CAME ON.....I DROVE THE CAR ABOUT 30 MILES..OR MORE AND..IT DIDN'T OVERHEAT OR ANYTHING?????..IT DID RUN OK.......BUT WHEN I TAKE THE OIL CAP OFF I DONT SEE ANY OIL SPURTING WITH THE MOTOR RUNNING.........COULD IT BE JUST A BAD LIGHT OR IS IT THE OIL PUMP BAD....(YES IT DOES HAVE OIL TO THE FULL MARK)........ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATTED....IS THERE A WAY TO KNOW IF THE OIL PUMP IS WORKING?..
  • ME AGAIN.....BESIDES THE PROBLEM WITH THE OIL PUMP POSTED RECENTLY....I ALSO HAVE ENGINE LIGHT ON AND MY TRANNY IS BEHAVING LIKE A BUCCKING BRONCO MOST OF THE TIME.......SOMETIMES IT JUST DOESN;T SHIFT...AND THE MOTOR FEELS LIKE IT JUST DIES ON YA......AND A SEC LATER THE TRANNY ENGAGES AND RUNS FINE........ANY IDEAS?.....I CHANGED SPARK PLUGS, WIRES, DIST CAP AND ROTOR, FUEL FILTER....BUT TO NO AVAIL.......THIS CAR IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!! TO TOP IT OFF MY FRIEND JUST LOANED TO ME UNTIL I CAN GET MY OWN!!!!!!!!...HELP PLEASE.....
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Do not assume you have a bad oil pump. First thing you need to do is to check the engine oil pressure. The oil pressure sender could be defective.

    About the transmission: You probably have a defective solenoid in the transmission. If your engine check light is on, get the code pulled for free by Auto Zone to see what the problem is. Do not replace unnecessary parts at random. NEW PLUGS, WIRES, DISTRIBUTOR ETC, will not fix your problem if they are not causing the problem.
  • P100 THANKS FOR THE INPUT....IT WAS AFTER ALL...THE OIL SENSING?..SENDING...UNIT....CHEAP FIX......MECHANIC PULLED THE FOLLOWING CODES....P0133 02 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 1 SENSOR 1
    P0421 WARM UP CATALYST EFFICIENCY BELOW TRESHOLD BANK 1
    P1131 UNKNOWN TROUBLE CODE
    P0300 RANDOM /MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE DETECTED
    P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1

    IS THERE ANYTHING I MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIX ON MY OWN ON THESE CODES??.IS THIS SOMETHING THAT A TUNE UP MIGHT FIX?......ANY IDEAS WHAT CODE P1131 IS FOR?....COULD IT BE RELATED TO THE TRANSMISION JERKING LIKE THAT?.....
    THANKS FOR THE HELP....REALLY APPRECIATED.
    JKAFKA
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    According to my 1999 shop manual, P1131 code corresponds to "heated oxygen sensor(front)". Condition: Switch sensor indicates lean

    When you replaced the plugs, is there a chance that you may have cracked one or more ceramic insulators? this happens more offten than you think. Happened to a coworker of mine, happened to me some years back. Take out tthe plugs and carefully check them and carefully reinstall. One or more misfiring plugs can cause all kinds of codes to me thrown. Transmission malfun ction may be related to engine misfiring.

    What is the compression in the cylinders? Also recommend a cylinder leakdown test.

    You could pour a bottle of chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner into your gas tank with about 8 gallons of gas and run it through.
  • THANKS...DIDN'T THINK OF THAT...I'LL CHECK THE PLUGS AND SEE WHAT'S UP IN THERE....THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF ONE OF THEM BEING CRACKED....I DIDN'T PUT THEM THERE....FRIEN OF MINE OWNER OF THE CAR DID.....SO...THANKS A LOT BUDDY.....AGAIN
    JAMES
  • I have a 1996 mazda 626 4 cyl atx....it has been running awful for about 6 months. Rough idle...almost stalls at red lights...very little power going up the slightest hill...if I let off the gas and step on it again it will take off but kinda jerky at various speeds..but will run 65 or 70 mph if you are patient enough to ease it up to there....i havent tried to run it any faster than that...changed plugs, oil, tanny fluid, distibutor cap, rotor and wires, timing belt and idlers, fuel filter, top o2 sensor, and valve cover gasket....cleaned the MAF. I am so tired of throwing money at this thing. CEO is on and codes are P1130, P1131, P0421 and P0171....Please help. I have looked for vacuum leaks but cant find anything obvious.
  • WELL...LOOKS LIKE GOD WORKS IN MISTERIOUS WAYS AFTER ALL.....AFTER I HAVE THAT OIL SENSING SWITH CHANGED..BECAUSE MY OIL LIGHT CAME ON IN MY DASH............GUESS WHAT?????
    ALL MY TRANSMISSION JERKING PROBLEMS DISSAPPEREAD!!!!!MY CAR RUNS BETTER THAN EVER...I JUST CANNOT BELIEVE IT....
    IT HAS POWER, IT TAKES OFF...THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS LIKE IT IS SUPPOSED TO.NO MORE JERKING...NO MORE FIDLING WITH THE GAS PEDAL TRYING TO MAKE IT SHIFT.......NOW ALL I HAVE TO TRACK DOWN IS WHY MY ENGINE LIGHT IS ON ...I'LL BE CHECKING MY SPARK PLUGS INSULATORS TOMORROW AND SEE IF THEY ARE CRACKED (SOMEBODY IS GOING TO LOAN ME THE SPARK PLUG WRENCH)......I HOPE THIS INFO IS OF HELP TO YOU COOKLIO...AND THANKS TO P100 AGAIN FOR THE DIRECCION.....
    JAMES
  • HEY I JUST POSTED SORT OF AN ANSWER TO YOUR PROBLEMS..MESSAGE # 2168 ....SOMETHING WORTH CHECKING INTO.....SINCE WE BOTH HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS....HAVE THE OIL SENSING SWITCH CHECKED.....MY PROBLEMS DISSAPEREAD AFTER THAT WAS CHANGED....AND MY CAR RUNS AND PURRS...I JUST CAN'T F...G BELIEVE IT!!!!!...I WILL KISS MY MECHANIC TOMORROW I THINK.....YUCK...GOOD LUCK FRIEND.
    JAMES
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hey James - just a quick note. If you would post your messages in normal case instead of all caps, they'd be a lot easier to read. Also, since all caps is interpreted as shouting, it's not really very good "netiquette". Thanks! :)
  • Pat..sorry about the caps thing.....won't happen again..promise....
    james
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