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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    All V6 models have rear disc brakes, with the ABS or without it. My 99 ES V6 does not have ABS because Mazda was clever enough to delete ABS, traction control, and fog lights as standard equipment from the 99 ES V6 models. These three items were standard on the 98 ES V6 and optional on the 99 ES V6 for about $ 1500 extra.
  • mad626mad626 Posts: 4
    My 1993 626 has running day lights,and park lights but no headlights or fog lights. When the switch is turned on, the park lights go on, the dash lights go on, but the headlights do not. If I flash/dip the high beams, they come on, but I must hold the indicator lever in that position, pushing it back to leave it on as I normally do, does not turn them on. I think that there must be a relay or something causing this to happen. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I had a problem just like you are describing with my 95 Nissan pickup. When I turned on the lights, only parking lights would come on. When I pushed the switch forward, the high beams would come on. I had no low beams at all. The problem was the light switch assembly. It is a combination light switch and turn signal switch. In case of my Nissan it cost me about $ 70 for the part. I diagnosed the problem and fixed it myself.

    Chances are you have a problem with the switch. Inside the switch are plastic slides with metal contacts and if one of those breaks, you will have a problem. The switch on your Mazda is very similar to the Nissan light switch. In my Nissan it was easy to remove and install. It took about 1/2 hour.
  • kidd3kidd3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Mazda 626 thats not starting up anymore. I can't get it to even turn over, A few days prior this to this problem I check my fuses for some reason,I jingled my fuses around and the car started up, no problem. It was like that for about 3 days and now it won't do anything. The battery wires are a little corroded were they connect to the battery. Does anybody no, what else it could be besides the wires before I work on it and end up spending more money than I need to.
  • Thanks for all your recent suggestions regarding transmission fluid change. However I just found out that the transmission on this 94 mazda 626 V6 with 88k miles was actaully flushed before, around the 60k mark.

    Does does impact your recommendation on getting it flushed now versus draining/sucking it out and refilling (i.e. is it safe to flush fluid that has been flushed before and is not as old as I had thought it was)?

    Thanks again for all your input.
  • mad626mad626 Posts: 4
    Thanks for your advice on the headlight problem. The light switch roll type of dial, must be the problem. The problem that you had is dead on with what I am experiencing. I will try changing it out. Thanks again!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    (I'd hate to have to say that fast three times.)

    Actually, flushing is probably safer now, since it's less likely that the seals and such have deteriorated from exposure to used-up fluid.

    Still, since the GF4A-EL has a real filter of sorts, I think it's probably worth dropping the pan in the traditional manner, just to see what sort of gunk has accumulated in there.
  • carbonnicarbonni Posts: 33
    I noticed a few days ago that the battery installed in my '96 626 4-cyl. auto is rated CCA 500. By checking several internet sources it seems that the right CCA should be 580. I don't have problems starting the car, but I wonder if the low CCA might have possible effects on the electric system. Should I change it asap?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The cold cranking amps (CCA) rating of 500 means that your battery can deliver 500 Amps of current for 30 seconds at 0 deg F and still maintain a terminal voltage of 7.2Volts(1.2 Vots per each cell).

    I do not know the starter motor power output for the 96 model, but the starter for the 99 4 cyl 626 is rated at 1000 Watts, or 1 kW. The current drawn by the starter at 12 Volts is then 83.3 amps. Because your starter is a DC motor, and DC motors require up to 300 % of the running current to start, instantaneous current draw can be as high as 250 amps. This draws occurs for a very short time and then the starter current draw will drop back to 83 amps.
    Keep in mind that when you crank your engine, all other accessories are switched off automatically, so your starter current draw is the only load on the battery for the duration of cranking. No other accessory on the car will draw as much current as your starter motor.

    So in conclusion, your 500 CCA battery has more than twice the required capacity to start your car under the worst conditions.
  • carbonnicarbonni Posts: 33
    Thanks, p100, for the detailed info!
  • tjexastjexas Posts: 2
    I have a '01 626 V6 ES and have had numerous problems. I've been thru 5 CD/radios b/c the Bose system would eat my CD's and not reject them. It would also disable the tuner. No tunes for a salesman driving 2k miles per month. Not to mention Mazda wouldn't order the radio for me until they verified the problem first hand. Hello, I think I can determine that the radio just ate my CD and will not give it back. Then there is the loud clicking every other time I shut my sunroof or the flooded floorboards after a pretty good down pour in Daytona Bch, FL. or even the slow radiator leek that they say is undetectable. How 'bout looking at my anti-freeze receipts from Chevron. Someone please steal my Mazda so I can go back to an Accord. I had a '93 then a '97 put 180K miles between the two of them without one problem big or small.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    tjexas: meet you by the cliff at 10pm tonight. We'll "race" our cars to the bottom; P100, wanna join us???...he, he, he..................(8 ^ (l)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Sounds tempting......except it's hard to find any cliffs here in Florida. Maybe drive them off a bridge?

    Some suggestions for tjexas:

    Sounds like your sunroof relay may be sticking and chattering intermittently

    I had a slow coolant leak too and it turned out to be a leaking coolant overflow bottle along the bottom seam. The leak was very slow, and in my case hot coolant leaked into the A/C compressor clutch harness connector, and caused intermittent A/C problems, which nobody could find for months. My local Mazda dealer told me that there is nothing they can do until the A/C quits for good. I described the problem as electrical in origin, yet they never ran a resistance check on the clutch wires to see if they are OK. Anyway, finally the coolant leak got worse and the A/C quit. Replacing the overflow bottle took care of the problem for good. Mazda never recalled these overflow bottles although there are known problems with them.

    Bose radio: never experienced any problem with mine - they should replace yours under warranty

    Water leaks: there could be number of entry points. I would make sure that the sunroof drain tubes are clean (blow them through with compressed air).

    Hesitation problems: you may not have any yet, but before you experience them, sugest you use Techron in your fuel system regularly (about once every ten tankfulls) and replace your spark plugs and plug wires at 60K. These V6 engines are extremely sensitve to carbon buildup and Techron helps prevent it. Walmart sells Techron for about $6 a bottle. Use one botle with about 12 gallons of gas. I was skeptical at first about using the stuff, but it really works
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I am curious what kind of gas mileage are you getting out of your ES V6. I assume that yours is an automatic. Mine is a 5 speed manual and I cannot get better than 23 MPG in combined driving with A/C on. I use mid-grade fuel, because premium does not do anything or this car in terms of performance or mileage. I believe it just generates more carbon, which helps degrade performance.

    Speaking of Honda Accords, I must mention the following: my local Honda dealer had a 99 Accord LX (4 cyl) with about 60K miles and they were asking $ 14K for it (cloth seats and no sunroof). I was recently offered $ 4500 on trade (different dealer) for my 99 Mazda ES V6 with 68K miles and $ 23K MSRP. That's a whopping 19.6% of the original MSRP after four years for a Japanese car in mint condition (not a single ding or scratch and no accident history), leather seats, power sunroof, alloy wheels and Bose CD/cass stereo. I would expect better resale value on a Yugo. Resale value on this car is a real joke, except not very funny one for the owner. And the joker who "appraised" my car told me that he did not even need to drive it because it was in such great shape. I wonder what an average looking one would bring? Maybe $ 2000?
  • I recently posted on the Protege forum regarding pinging. Well, the Protege is 'fixed', but this weekend I noticed that the 626, mainly driven by my wife, is pinging pretty bad. It is fine while it warms up, but after it reached operating temp (i.e., the fan comes on and off), I had to struggle to make it go up hills withouth marbles knocking around the engine bay.

    For more info, this is an 95 ATX with an L4, 88K miles, and I'm using 89 gas. Last year I did an almost complete tune up (everything but distributor cap/rotor), and it's oil was changed 800 miles ago. It's done less than 10K miles since the tune up. Oil is fine, and everything else is as well (no problem on the freeway). Only problem is the pinging. Could this be carbon knock? Should I check base timing? should I check the (presumably good) plugs?


  • tjexastjexas Posts: 2
    Thanks for information and the heads up with my future problems. I get around 27mpg/HWY and 23mpg/city and I always have the AC on. They did replace my radios under the warranty. That's interesting information on the trade in value of the 626. This website, I believe, values the trade in around 9K for one in good condition.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There are several causes for engine pinging:

    1. Heavy carbon buildup on tops of pistons and valves. Carbon will glow red hot when engine reaches operating temperature and cause pre-ignition

    2. Base timing that is advanced too far. Check your base ignition timing and make sure it is within spec

    3. A non-functioning EGR valve. This is a common problem. EGR diaphragms tend to go bad with age and heat exposure. The valve then stay permanentoy closed. Or the valve actuation solenoid could be malfunctioning. The valve is easy to check with a vacuum pump.

    Switching to high octane gas will alleviate the problem until you find the cause and eliminate it.

    To find out if you have a heavy carbon buildup on your pistons, suggest you do a compression check on your engine. If the readings are abnormally high (e.g. 180 psi) in each cylinder, you definitely have a lot of carbon in your cylinders. Normal compression readings for your car should be in the 140-150 psi range. When you do a compression check, make sure you unplug the distributor ignition wire from the distributor (still attached to the coil) and ground it to your engine block.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    1. Well, I'm still dripping power steering fluid pretty steadily now. My mechanic told me to add brake fluid to help the rubber seals to swell so I'm trying that. I can get a 626 rack for $75 from a junkyard. I have not called to find out if that includes the tie rods. I'll just keep adding fluid for now. Hopefully I can get this thing to last 6 more months.
    2. Also, it was funny how my check engine light started turning on only 1000 miles after the Mazda warranty ran out on the catalytic converter. Mazda probably programmed all of them to do that. Now some 11,000 miles later at 91k, my light stays on all the time. I wonder when I'm going to turn the key and it won't start any more because the converter is too clogged. That will be the day that the donation tow truck takes it away.
    3. Does anyone know if it is hard to rip off the heat shield where the exhaust pipe makes a bend to go up into the engine?? I have a tiny leak there, and would want to yank that off and wrap aluminum tape around it just to patch it together until the tow truck of death comes.
  • xhanxhan Posts: 1
    Since yesterday, my 94 Mazda 626 LX suddently had a wierd sharp noise when the car is just igniting.
    It sounds like the engine is suddently sucking air or coolant, or some belt is slipping. It only last one second, and this only happens when the engine is cold. After the car is warmed up, and restart, the noise won't appear.
    PCV volve? Air leak?
    Any suggestion is welcome!
    Thanks in advance!
  • 97 626 tranny problems. Lurches, shifts irregularly and just plain old doesn't seem right. Read many posts on this problem. I can't really afford to drop $2500 on a new tranny at this there something I can do to prolong or prevent total loss of this thing? Wife drives it VERY gently, I change the tranny fluid every 20,000 miles since I bought it. Will synthetic fluid or Transmedic sort of stuff do anything for me or will every tranny of this make/year eventually fail?
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