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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • lid03lid03 Posts: 2
    Sorry its a 2000 mazda 626 .
  • :confuse: I recently purchased a 2000 Mazda 626 LX w/AT and 4cyl. The car had a rough idle untill I replaced the spark plugs and plug wires. The reason I replaced them was, A:the rough idle problem, and B: the car began to hesitate when downshifting on inclines. This seemed to fix the problem for a while and it was VERY apparent that the previous owner had not changed them in quite some time... The hesitation problem has returned a month later. I ran a scan and it said misfire detection on cylinder 1, and later on cylinders 2 & 3. I replaced the coil/ic module, catalytic converter, and fuel filter. The only thing that helped was the fuel filter replacement, which only helped a little... I have ran a check on MAF, fuel pressure, and fuel pressure regulator vacuum control valve, and all check out fine...
    I AM BAFFLED!!! Any suggestions??? Thank you for ANY advice.

    PS the car runs fine untill I am on an incline or push the accelorator far enough to activate the passing gear...
  • I have had similar problems of late with my 2000 626, and the first thing I would reccomend would be a Shop manual, or haynes repair manual. That being said, I replaced the plugs with Bosch platinum plus4 fusion, and NGK HP wires... Problem went away for a month and returned in full swing. I replaced the coil for 50 bucks, the catalytic converter, and tested my MAF sensor, to no avail... Good luck and if you figure something out on yours, let me know... :(
  • Recently I have noticed my car isn't heating up as quickly as I think it should. The temperature gauge seems to be moving to the normal range but the air blowing is cold. Once I get on the interstate and keep moving it gets warm and temp can be regulated lower for comfort.

    Most of what I read regarding thermostat indicates the gauges moving to overheat states or not to normal temp. Could it be lacking water/antifreeze mix? or some other issues?

    liketolearn
  • I have a 99 mazda 626 4 cylinder it overheated on the express way and shut off now it wont start. had to have it towed back home, i fixed the leak it had, one of the small radiator hoses behind the exhaust manifold was cracked,I also replaced the spark plugs but still wont start, it cranks but will not start. I charged the battery and still it cranks but will not start. I took off the valve cover just to see the timing belt and it looks good its even tight so Can anyone help me with this problem?
  • When my 2000 mazda 626 would crank but not turn over, it was my fuel pump. I didn't have any overheating issues, it could be two issues you had.

    liketolearn
  • kg_6933kg_6933 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 mazda 626 and it just stopped running. The check engine light has been on only for a couple of days and I replaced the coil, thats not the problem, what else could it be?? Please help
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Slow warmup indicates that the thermostat is sticking partially open or opening too soon. Replace the thermostat.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have 193k miles on my '99 ES V6 5 speed and it is still running great. There are some issues/ maintenance tips associated with this car that I want to share:

    1. This engine (2.5 liter , 24 valve V6) likes premium 93 octane. It performs better and gets better fuel economy. I get 25-26 MPG consistently in city driving with A/C on all the time (in Florida). Do not use regular gas if you have this engine. Mazda recommends premium fuel for best performance and there is a reason for it. My car seems to like BP, Sunoco , and Mobil fuels the best for some reason. Stay away from no name brand gas stations.

    2. Use a bottle of Chevron Techron injector cleaner in your gas tank about every 4k miles. Mix with approximately 8 gallons of gas and drive until the tank is almost empty. This cleaner does marvels when used regularly and keeps injectors clean. I have never had injectors cleaned int his car and the engine is silky smooth.

    3. Change spark plug leads and spark plugs about every 60k miles. There is a good reason for this. The plugs are located in deep wells betweent he cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to very high temperatures, so they degrade over time. Use the recommended OEM Denso plugs. Bosh plugs are not recommended for these engines and do not perform too well in them. OEM Denso plugs are expensive, but you can get them at a much more reasonable cost from sparkplugs.com (about $ 7 per plug vs $ 19 per plug from your Mazda dealer). A set of OEM plug leads for the 6 cylinder is about $ 130 right now. I have fooud that the electrode gap on the spark plugs increases from 0.030 spec gap to 0.060 inches in about 60k miles. So replace the plugs every 60k.

    4. This particular car has a design flaw with the EGR engine block passages. These passages are too narrow and get caked with carbon over time. The EGR valve itself is practically bulletproof - it is ab electrically ooperated, liquid cooled valve. If you get the engine code P400 (insufficient EGR flow), most often this means clogged EGR passaged throughout the engine block. The solution is to remove the throttle body, and the upper intake manifold, get a small caliber gun (like22) cleaning brush and throughly brush the ERG passage in the engine block and the intake manifold and liberally spray out with carburetor cleaner. You will need to replace one throttle body gasket, and two intake manifold gaskets, and well as two fuel banjo fitting copper washers. This is the only way to do this right. Cleaning only the EGR passage opening in the intake manifold just past the throttle body will work only for a while.

    5. Coolant overflow bottle: This is a defective item on this model and Mazda should be ashamed that they sell such junk as a replacement part. I have installed 5 of these coolant overflow reservoirs on my car by now, because each lasts about 18 months before it develops a slow leak. Mazda dealer admits there is a problem and they keep these things in stock. The price is outrageous - about $ 90 list price.

    6. Brakes are practically bulletproof on this model - I am on the second set of pads and still original brake rotors at 193K miles. There is still life left in the pads and rotors are not distorted or grooved.

    7. There are no issues with the manual transaxle, but the clutch master cylinders are not that reliable - the seals in mine failed after 130k miles. When this happens, the clutch will not release and you cannot drive the car.

    8. The A/C compressor clutch bearing failed on mine at 135 K miles and it destroyed the compressor shaft seal, so i had to buy a new compressor.

    9. There OEM CV joints/axles are of low quality and upgrading them is a good idea.

    10. Change oil frequently, and use only Mazda OEM oil filters or a good aftermarket filter with an anti drain membrane. This keeps the oil from draining from the cylinder head when the engine is shut off, preventing oil starvation of sensitive cam journal bearings when starting a cold engine.

    11. Replacing the timing belt on this car is not easy and you should also replace the cam and front crank oil seal, water pump and all three tensioner timing belt pulleys. Auto Zone offers a timing belt kit for this car that contains all three tensioner pulleys and the belt for about $ 100. These pulleys from Mazda are outrageously expensive - they were about $ 180 a piece about 5 years ago. I replace the timing belt on this car every 105k miles, although they recommend it every 60k miles. However, Mazda sells only one timing belt - and it is a 105k miles belt, as some state require the timing belt replacement interval to be that.

    My engine runs strong at 193k miles - I see no degradation in mileage or performance. The engine does not use oil and does not smoke upon startup. I am still on the original radiator, alternator, and starter. The original paint is of excellent quality and still shiny after all these years in harsh Florida sun. Of course, I wash the car frequently by hand and use ZipCar wash wax containing soap, which keeps the paint looking like new.
  • mikeinhomikeinho Posts: 1
    My car overheats when i drive, it cools down a lil bit when im stopped or i let go of the gas for a period of time, but everytim i accelerate the car goes well past the H, i checked my coolant system and at first my reservoir was empty and my radiator full, when the car overheated, everything that was in the radiator went to the reservoir and made it over flow, and my hoses were collapsed, anybody know what the problem might be?

    -Fans work
    -Coolant full
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You may have the thermostat stuck closed, improperly installed thermostat, or a failing water pump (e.g. broken impeller). Also the radiator core may be badly plugged with scale. Remove the radiator and have it flow tested by a good radiator shop.
  • galcalagalcala Posts: 4
    hello, I was searching for information on a little trouble im having with my girlfriends car when I came accross Carspace. first i would like to say this is a great site with tons of info. now my troubles.
    she owns a 96 626, on friday it started shaking a little, we thought it was just due to it being a bit overdue for a tuneup so on saturday I gave it the treatment, plugs, wires, cap rotor, filters etc. well it didnt fix the problem the car idles like crap and wont stay at steady RPM fluctuating between 500 and 750 and dying out, funny thing is that once i get it on the road it rides really really good no issues no sputtering, no hesitation, runs like a dream. check engine light was on so I took it to autozone and they said it was a misfire but I check and rechecked every ignition component with no luck. so again car runs near excellent at speed but Idles really bad. can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    general misfire code could be anything related to fuel mixture as well as spark.

    You might check for a bad vacuum leak somewhere. That would give you all the symptoms you mention as well as correct itself at highway speeds.

    Also a clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve or tubing.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • galcalagalcala Posts: 4
    thanks Mr. Shiftright, Ill check it today. can it be cleaned with carb cleaner or the like?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Yeah but that doesn't always work. There are also tests for the EGR valve which is usually vacuum operated. Vacuum leaks can be detected using a carb cleaner or a smoke machine, which you probably don't have!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • galcalagalcala Posts: 4
    Thanks. Ill check it to see what can be done, as for me not having a smoke machine, well not unless you count my old ford ranchero lol.

    thanks again.
  • This is very similar to my original problem which has progressed into a a hesitation so bad that it is almost undriveable... What is the basic Idea behind the process of using carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak? After everything I have checked I am leaning towards a vacuum leak, or a bad MAF, which tests good, but I stiff have a gut feeling that it could be part of my problem. :confuse:
  • This is very similar to my original problem which has progressed into a a hesitation so bad that it is almost undriveable... What is the basic Idea behind the process of using carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak? After everything I have checked I am leaning towards a vacuum leak, or a bad MAF, which tests good, but I stiff have a gut feeling that it could be part of my problem. :confuse:
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    When a bit of carb cleaner is sprayed into the intake of an engine, the engine RPMs will surge faster for a couple of seconds. When there is a vacuum leak, air is sucked into the engine through places where it should not come in. This could cause hesitation, overheating, emissions and other problems.
    Use carb cleaner to spray shots around suspected leaky parts. If the engine surges, then you found your leak. I found out that my throttle body was missing its gasket this way.
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    Your going to have to post more info. When it stopped running, do you mean the engine cut off or the transmission won't engage. When you turn the key, does anything happen? Does the car start? If so, how long does it run before cutting off?...Feel free to add as many detail as you can.
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    That tube transports hot oil vapors to the engine intake. It's parts of the emissions system and has nothing to do with coolant (unless you've blown a head gasket).

    If you smell coolant, then either someone spilled coolant during a recent servicing or you have a leak that needs to be found and fixed before enough coolant leaks out to overheat your engine.
  • charbcharb Posts: 1
    My son just purchased a 2000 626 V6 with a 5-speed manual transmission. I have been looking just so I can feel good that he found a reliable car, and find all of this negative info about this vehicle's transmission problems. Just wondering...are the problems I read about associated with all transmissions in this car or just the automatic? Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this for me.
  • joelleinjoellein Posts: 7
    I had the same question when I bought my used 2001 626 V6. My Mazda dealer (not where I bought the car) service manager told me it was just the automatic tranny.
  • I have a Mazda 626 2.0tdi dated 1998, over 300.000Km Is an european model
    When the engine run for a long time, for example 1-2 hours of highway drive,if I stop it an restart , even within only some seconds, it never start again. The first times it happen, I need to wait 5-10 minutes, now I have to pass a intere night to cool down , and then restart. The only way to start the engine when is hot, is a starter spray (wurth fast start) in the air input (removing air filter). A garage man says that is the tank pump that have a pressure to low. This can be, but I don't understand ho can the engine run for hours at 130km/h without problems, and stopping it for a second cause the no start. Any idea
    Thanks a lot
    Alberto
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There are no issues with the V6 manual transmissions. I have a '99 ES V6 5 speed with 196k miles and no problems with the manual transmission. The only problem I had was with the clutch master cylinder seals, which failed at about 130K and clutch pedal sank to the floor, making the car undriveable. . But this is a relatively inexpensive repair requiring either the cylinder rebuild or a new cylinder which costs about $ 100.
  • 626rock626rock Posts: 1
    Have the same issues with my 99LX and now my 2002 ES. Doesnt make a cuckoo noise, but rattles like crazy. Both car did/do the same thing. I agree with another poster that the strut towers seem to be the culprit. It is an annoying noise.
  • Thank you very much, I understand the idea now. This should be very handy in troubleshooting my problem! :)
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    I too had those pesky gremlins in our DoubleOught 626 from day one. Dealer could Not reproduce in shop! The rattle is not constant but annoying non the less.80k
    had rear struts replaced,no change in rattle.Mechanic said "sounds like a loose
    body panel"
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    My daughter's 99 V6 has developed a surge when idling with the a/c on. Idle jumps from normal 750 range to 1700 (and as high as 2000) as the compressor cycles. No CEL is on, and there has not been any recent work on the car. Anyone else experienced this? The car has approx 120k. Timing belt was replaced at 105k as recommended in the book, along with the other belts. Car runs fine otherwise, and no surge is noticed while driving, just while at idle, in gear or park.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I never experienced that with my "99 ES V6 with 198K+ miles on it. The normal idle variation with A/C compressor cycling is about 700 -1000 RPM. My car has a 5 speed manual transmission.

    I believe there is an idle control valve on this car - you may have a problem in that area.
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