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Mazda 626 Troubles

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Take the car to somebody else, perhaps a Mazda dealer and let them check it out. It should not be that expensive to check the timing belt for correct installation, however, if they have to reposition it, they may charge you for three of four hours of labor. Maybe there is some other unrelated problem, but from what you described, that is not likely.
  • Hi,

    About a couple of days ago, I started having a problem with the shift lever on my 93 626 v-6 auto. Even though I have the brake pedal pressed in, it usually won't shift out of Park unless I stick the key in the lock next to the shift console to manually unlock it.

    Sometimes though, I am able to shift it out of Park without using the key to manually unlock the shift lever, but the strange thing is that at those times, I can move it out of Park with or without pressing the brake pedal in.

    Help!
  • Did the belts on the wife's 626 last weekend. The Atl./WP belt was in VERY bad shape (I think only one rib remained whole, all the others were mostly gone). The new Gates (NAPA) belts not only have quited all the squealing noises, but I also think the alternator is working better (the idle drops I get when the AC or radiator fans kick in are not as noticeable), plus it should be also cooling better (the WP belt was shreads, as I mentioned). I mean, after busting my knuckles all morning, it better be better...

    What bugs me is that the guy that did the timing belt did not replace them then (2 years ago). Also, the clearance between the Alt./WP belt and the timing belt cover is very tight, I'd say 1/10 of an inch. Scary...

    Plus, the chugging noises I hear after the engine warms up, which I thought were valve-train related, are exhaust related. I think there are probably three molecules or iron metal left in the pipes, everything else is rust. I probably have holes/gaps all over the place that get bigger/smaller with temperature...

    G.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I too have good experience with NAPA Gates brand drive belts. They cost a bit more than cheap belts but they hold up really good. NAPA also sells decent brake pads. I installed a set of NAPA belts and brake pads on my Nissan SE V6 pickup and 30K miles later they look and function really good.
  • Well, after a couple of days of making me use the key to unlock the shifter, the problem seems to have gone away by itself. Hopefully it will stay this way.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    I'm trying to make the 626 troubles page the most prolific page in the 626 category, so here's another update: the brake fluid seems to be working. I added a bunch to my power steering bottle in hopes of expanding the rubber gromits and slowing the leak to the rack and pinion. I have not added any fluid in 2 weeks. My rear brake squeal (probably from me puting brake fluid in places it doesn't belong) continues, despite me NOT using the emergency brake at all. To refresh, the rear brakes squeek for about 100 yards after starting the car in the morning and leaving work. The squeek goes away after that 100 yards. I'm guessing it is not the emergency brake adjuster since I have not been using it. Any ideas out there? My engine light has been off for 3 weeks, despite the catalytic converter clogging with carbon. Hey, maybe I should add some brake fluid to my gas tank to clean out the carbon in the exhaust (he, he, he)
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,341
    Well, the 6 may indeed be a great car; HOWEVER, and note that this is a big however, I don't believe Ford has earned our trust. They ruined the 626 with its junk parts, and don't deserve our business again. I actually was amazed when I had mine up on the ramps today to see that I seemed to have arrested the leak on my second rack and pinion. I have no doubts that it is temporary, but the brake fluid seems to be working. I changed the oil today, hopefully for the last time before the Maxx comes out in January. I actually toyed with filling my tank with 87 octane today, to spend as little money as possible on this POC. I ended up puting in the mid grade, which has been necessary since about the 13th month of ownership back in '96.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I had posted a little while back about my 93 626 giving me timing belt problems. I am happy to say that is resolved. I took it to the dealer and they redid the timing belt. Works great.

    Now fo rthe questions:
    1) The dealer said that I need to have my front wheel bearings replaced at a cost of 600 bucks. My car does make an airplane like sound on the parkway. How urgent is this??

    2)
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I had posted a little while back about my 93 626 giving me timing belt problems. I am happy to say that is resolved. I took it to the dealer and they redid the timing belt. Works great.

    Now fo rthe questions:
    1) The dealer said that I need to have my front wheel bearings replaced at a cost of 600 bucks. My car does make an airplane like sound on the parkway. How urgent is this??

    2)
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Sorry about the abrupt ending.
  • It's only urgent when the wheel quits turning. :)

    I'd have this looked at pronto, though $600 seems a bit stiff for what is basically two or three hours work on some fairly cheap parts, plus (if they're paying attention) a front-wheel alignment.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    How much should it be??

    Sabir.
  • Depends on where you live; parts prices are fairly constant, but the hourly service rate varies all over the place. (Where I live, it's down around $75-80, but then, I'm a cheap so-and-so.)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If I am not mistaken, you must remove the front hub from the vehicle to replace the bearing. You also need a hydraulic press for the job. The bearings temselves are not expensive (something like $ 40 a piece), but there is some labor involved here, such as disconnecting the tie rods, pushing the axles out of the hubs, and unbolting the knuckles from the front struts. It should not be that expensive, but it depends on the competency of the technican performing the work. You probably do not need realignment as long as you do not change out the knuckle (inner part of the hub), and mark the original bolt position of the knuckles on the struts before removal.
  • I need to replace or fix my #1 and #2 motor mounts. I'm an average Saturday fixer. Can I change these parts myself without too much trouble? If so, do I need any special tools or just a lot of patience to get to these?

    I recently read about a guy that rebuilt his own using 3M Weld for windows and letting it cure for 24 hours. Anyone else tried this?

    I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get some good illustrations (Hanes manuals don't) on doing this?
  • Sunday afternoon I rotated my tires on the 626 (they were ~5K miles overdue for a rotation). I kept them on the same side, just fronts to back and vice-versa. The wear on all tires was OK, just more on the fronts than in the backs (duh...). In any case, the car drives fine with no vibrations or pulls of any kind up to 90 mph (that's as far as I'll go...).

    The only problem: My driver's side wheel is now making a periodic squeaky noise that correlates with speed. I checked to see if there was something rubbing against the tire and everything is OK. I took the wheel off and back on to make sure that all the lug nuts were OK, an still noise (I torqued them to 50 in a star pattern, then to 80). My only hope is that the plate covering the caliper (behind the wheel) got bent while I was mounting the wheels and is now scraping against the rim. But the noise is 'rubbery', if this is any help in diagnosis. And, no, I don't have any bubble gum stuck on the tire. Any ideas?

    TIA,

    G.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Jack up the car on the left side in the front and spin the front wheel by hand (with transmission in neutral). If there is any hard interference from the brake dust shield, you should hear it. Are your tires feathered on the edges? This type of wear (scrubbing) results usually from improper toe-in setting. A worn tire edge may cause funny rumbling sound for a while but not a squeak. Check your CV joint boots to make sure that one is not torn and grease leaking out. Also, I would check the axle nut to make sure it is tight and properly staked. Squeak could also be an indication of an impending wheel bearing failure.

    If you do not find anything, switch the tires back to their original configuration and drive the car.
  • ...it was a plug! I had that tire plugged a month or so ago, before I rotated them. A little bit of the rubbery substance in the plug squeezed out a bit (more weight on the front, I guess), enough to make your typical bubble gum noise.

    Anyway, I took the old plug off, cleaned the hole, and re-plugged it with a bit more finesse than the kid at the gas station, and now there is no noise.

    G.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Aren't they supposed to trim the plug after they insert it in to be even with the tire tread surface? Anyway, I hate plugs and insist on having my flat tires patched from inside. Unfortunately, it is hard to find a place that will do this anymore. They still have patches, but most of them will be a combination patch/ plug type, which means they will insert the plug from the inside and glue the patch on the inside. Still, I do not see any reason to ream out a small hole to make a plug fit if it can be fixed with a nice flat patch from the inside.

    If you plug a motorcycle speed rated tire for example, you have essentially ruined the tire speed capability and they tell you not to exceed about 70 mph with such a tire.
  • Hi. Brand new member to posting. I've been watching for a 626, about 1999 to 2001, with 50K to 65K miles. I could get one in the neighborhood of $5500 to $7000. After reading all of these posts, though, WOW! Would I be making a big mistake? Are the trannys garbage, parts more expensive, maintenance more expensive,etc? Please help with advice from you owners.
    I'm also considering Mercury Villagers, 1997 to 2000. Any first-hand info. on both of these would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.
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